Dr. Yan-I-Tor

12 stories tall made of radiation
Well, I just got back from my second session with my FV, and I think I'm getting a better sense of how she handles lol. I ended up having enough bud left from the session earlier tonight with my buddy to cover the entire screen with a nice thin layer. My first hit wasn't terrible thick and a bit light on flavor. Then I realized I must have been intimidated by the 1950s sci-fi ness of my black unit, because the unit functions much like my vapor genie in the technique for getting a hit!


From then on I just used a slightly modified version of how I hit the genie: press the button for 5-6 second then continue pressing the button for another 4-5 seconds. At this point I can taste the vapor (surprisingly cool for how small the stem is IMO) as well as see it through the window. From there I continue with a moderate draw until I notice the temperature of incoming air/vapor has begun to drop so I press the button for another 3-4 seconds, release and draw for 5 sec, press for 3-4 and draw. At this point I might pulse one or two more times, depending on the flavor and how much room I have left in my lungs.


Each time I took a hit in that fashion I was greeted with a light cloudy whips of vapor upon exhaling. Now, I suspect I could have gotten bigger clouds had I had better green (due to one of my guys rolling into town only once week on Fridays, and my other guy being dry, my buddy and I had to go through one of his less used sources.), and hadn't held the hits in for quite as long (I shoot for about 15-20secs). Still, I was surprised by how hard each hit landed and how many times it hit me lol I managed to lose count around 8, but something tells me it ended up being about 15 or so. I suppose I could have pushed it s bit further since the avb turned out a nice light brown, but the taste from the last hit was so popcorny that I was hesitant to do so thanks to my VG experience. (Pushing it any further seems to result in charring in my VG).


Overall I'm really pleasantly surprised with how nice thing is so far. I'm not saying I didn't expect it to be nice, it just seems like ought be worth a bit more than what I paid for it. It just has such a nice, quality feel in the hand. And the taste is the best I've encountered in a long time. I suppose my cloud had more intense flavor, but for some reason the FV's flavor seems...idk, brighter? By the end of the session, I was feeling good, the avb was a nice light brown, and I was very happy with my purchase :D



Oh and apologies if this is a bit long winded, I'm a bit more medicated than I expected to be.:D I loaded the avb from my FV into my solo (set on 7) and managed to get two more hits through my little tube than I expected :D. At this point the avb was the color of coffee grounds (dark but not black). This makes me wonder if its possible to take the FV further before reaching combustion.


Someone who's had their unit longer, is it possible to take a bowl to dark brown territory in the FVS2 before the unit gets hot enough for combustion?
 

Shmoo

Well-Known Member
ABV is very light. too light IMO. I have taken over 2 grams of ABV from the S2 sessions and put in the Solo and INH and get many hits off the ABV.
Has anyone else experienced this? I really like to vaporize until my herb is quite dark, so I know there's practically nothing left. Perhaps some before/after pics?

Edit: Dr. Yan's post appeared after I submitted mine, heh.
Someone who's had their unit longer, is it possible to take a bowl to dark brown territory in the FVS2 before the unit gets hot enough for combustion?
I would also quite like to know this. :)
 
Shmoo,

Lizard King

Well-Known Member
I received my 2 x FlashVape / S2 kit a couple of days ago. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to vape with it yet as I am waiting on the batteries to arrive (they had to be shipped separately due to customs regulations in my country).

Initial impressions: Nicely boxed. All accessories and extras were present and correct, including the free screens (thanks FlashVape!). The device feels weighty, but not too heavy, to me. It’s solid and well put together. Very smooth to the touch. It fits in my hand nicely. I like the contours.

Initial set-up: The first thing I did was to switch it over to Stage 2. I took out the top screen and then I gently inserted the spacer (FLAT SIDE FACING UP!) and made sure it was lying flat on the bottom heating screen. Then I replaced the top screen and made sure that was lying flat on the spacer. And that was it- it took less than 3 minutes to complete with a pair of tweezers; even with the extra care/time I took handling the spacer.

Initial maintenance: I checked the threads on the battery compartment. I gently screwed on and off a few times and it seemed fine. It didn’t feel gritty. But I still went ahead and wiped the threads using paper towels and Q-tips. I got some black stuff coming off, so I continued till they were coming up clean. It didn’t take long. I then applied a little extra fine virgin olive oil to a Q-tip and oiled the threads. It’s threading silky smooth.

I’m really looking forward to getting this up and running. Hopefully the postman will see fit to bring my batteries tomorrow. Coming from a (friend’s) Magic-Flight Box, I’m hoping the learning curve will not be too steep. I was able to master that one quite quickly.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Quick question: How many bowls are people getting from a battery with the Stu, er... "S2"?

I've always switched batteries with every bowl (mine are weighed to .1 g). I usually take 5 seconds warm-up then draw until the taste and heat tells me to stop. That's anywhere from 3 seconds for the first hit to 8-10 seconds as the battery power drops. By count I'll get anywhere from 20 to 30 hits on a bowl, and I still like the flavour at the end.

My S2 arrived Saturday and has been getting a workout since. (NOTE: I still have not tried the S1 mode)

Box is nice.

It comes with all sorts of stuff: (feels complete)

some clear credit card sized plastic cards (no idea what these are for)
stickers
directions
advanced directions (props for putting a link to this thread).
straws, screens, the Vape, batteries and a charger.
sparts parts - o rings, screens and shrink tubing for the glass stems.

one battery arrived fully charged the other was dead and took over 5 hours to charge.

Its a larger portable unit like the Solo. Certainly not something I would probably take out in public unless it was in my backpack due to weight of this unit and size. The INH XP and Persei fill that role well for me.
This unit is very hefty and feels super solid.

No problem getting vapor on the first and subsequent tries. The vapor reminds me of the T1 except maybe a tad cooler and slightly tastier. There is vapor and its tasty but its not thick so far as with the Solo and INH. We had a LARGE group session the other night with 2 solos going, an XP, the Flashvape and even fired up my EQ 4.0. Even the novices got vapor from the S2 but no one could achieve thick vapor. more practice and expirementing is necessary. Even the novices got way bigger clouds from the Solo and the INH.

Flavor is very clean throughout. Its again reminds me of the T1 in that the flavor is clean but not concentrated like the Solo or INH. The FV and T1 seem to have less flavor up front but preserve the taste farther into the session. Both the INH and the Solo gives these really super flavorful first hits but degrade faster after that. I prefer the concentrated flavor slightly but also really like how the FV keeps the taste fresh longer.

Heat up time is as stated. Very very fast. I hit button for 3 to 4 seconds and then start drawing slowly for 15-20 seconds. I did manage to combust a few times toward the end of the load after being on the button for at least 30 seconds. More combustion resistant than a T1.

Battery life 1.5 - ~2 bowls IMO. I can't say I was able to completely finish a second bowl yet on one set of batteries.

ABV is very light. too light IMO. I have taken over 2 grams of ABV from the S2 sessions and put in the Solo and INH and get many hits off the ABV.

Need to re-read the whole thread again and see what tid bits I can glimmer. Certainly not getting clouds anything like Vito's video. If I can achieve better clouds and overall extraction this vape will surely have a spot in my rotation near the top.

again, these are initial just my initial impressions after 4 days of use.

If I had to sum up my initial impressions with a simple letter grade I would say B. I hope it earns an A on my next report :)

EDIT: on yeah spacer broke. Already knew about the breakage people were having before I even used my unit. My spacer slid in very easily and we put the screen back in. Never even touched it other than gently brushing the screen (per the recommendations here and it still broke). seems work fine missing some of the pieces though.

Another EDIT: Just did a session with S1 mode and it worked well. no issues combusting at all. I hit it like S2 mode. hold the power for 3-4 seconds until vapor starts appearing and then just draw slowly.

Nice review. The battery charger is only 500 mA so they should take 4.5 hrs for a full charge, but I've never actually timed it. It just seems like forever. The FV uses a lot of power quickly in both modes, so battery life and charge times are its weak points. A heavy user will need more than two batteries and probably should get a faster charger.

I don't try to get clouds but I can get them easily using micro-hits. I'm guessing that's how Vito did it too. I think getting darker ABV is also just a matter of getting to know the FV better. Obviously if you can combust you can get dark ABV, it's just a matter of figuring out how.

Someone who's had their unit longer, is it possible to take a bowl to dark brown territory in the FVS2 before the unit gets hot enough for combustion?

Also a nice review. :tup: See above.
 

Bvapst

Well-Known Member
Finally got my FV package! After customs tried to block it and suddenly released it. :shrug:

I Will write what i think about the FV in a few days. About unpacking everythings is ok, I notice threads were greased but i already have a silver point. Maybe my fault, maybe not... Anyway i know i will have to take care of this part, for the moment, it's still greased so i guess no worries !?

I have also a light-color dot on the top part (inside). Don't know what to think about this, i took a picture and will check with FV by MP.

Everythings was there! FV : Thanks for the free screens!!!
 
Finally got my FV package! After customs tried to block it and suddenly released it. :shrug:

I Will write what i think about the FV in a few days. About unpacking everythings is ok, I notice threads were greased but i already have a silver point. Maybe my fault, maybe not... Anyway i know i will have to take care of this part, for the moment, it's still greased so i guess no worries !?

I have also a light-color dot on the top part (inside). Don't know what to think about this, i took a picture and will check with FV by MP.

Everythings was there! FV : Thanks for the free screens!!!
Not sure what you mean by "i already have a silver point". Please clarify.
 
kelper,

Willeh

Well-Known Member
Hey Bvapst,
My flashvape came with some shiny metal flakes in the bottom and I just wiped it with moist paper towel and all was good for a while. Is the dot on the 'top part' on the heating screen? My heater screen and screen that first came packed inside have a little blackish dot on it in the same spot, and it always had. I wondered what it was too, but after installing the S2 and glowing it red a bunch of times it faded and I haven't even thought about. I assumed it was some dust that might of got stuck between the heater and screen and burned down there or just a part of the manufacturing process. I also thought maybe I brushed it while it was still too hot and melted the brush a bit but it doesn't make any flavors, smoke, or smell so I assume it was just some kind of oxidizing or carbonizing or something.

wall of text on light abv and proper technique and comparing to solo, TLDR at bottom:
Edit: I also kind of want to touch on the light abv. I've always get extremely even dark chocolate abv out of the s2 unless I over pack the bowl. I get very big hits compared to other portables and even some home vapes but practice is needed. People who've mastered more sensitive vaporizers like the flightbox or PD/log vape will be blasted away by this thing. People who like to be in-tune with the vapor-production like 7th floor users will like it. Follow the golden rules of very well dried herb and very fine powdery grind. Potency makes difference in cloud production ability too. How you prepare the bowl is 50% how thick of a cloud you'll produce. 2/5fths full of dry powder is optimal for big clouds as more will start to act as a heat sink and steal from your good convection.

My current massive-hit technique is a always-on micro-hits technique. I hold the button for about 3 seconds and begin an almost non-existent draw while watching the window for about 2 seconds. I can only describe it as doing the nose draw of the mflb without using your nose. You should see the vapor very slowly works its way up the top chamber while you do this but not even enter the mouth piece. Once the vapor looks like its whitish instead of blueish or looks too thick like its bordering on combustion I quickly change to a slow speed (but not super slow speed) for just a fraction of a second to cool the screen back down, then switch back to almost non-existent draw and repeat. The button stays pressed the whole time for up to 15 seconds and usually the lungs are full by then. If I'm using potent herb or have kief in the bowl, the vapor is too thick and I can not even fill my lungs. Under half-full but more than a third is optimal for big clouds as more will start to act as a heat sink and steal from your good convection.

And lastly, compared to the solo, when hit dry or with the mouthpiece bubbler with minimal water I can get equally thick and i'd argue tastier hits out of the FlashVapeS2. It can expose more herb to clean convection heat with its large flat heating chamber than the solo can in its .2 bowl that mostly conduction cooks the front of it. The Solo is the definite winner in water pipe usage, as it is designed ergonomically perfect, is easily invertible, fits directly into water pipes and is not draw sensitive and can make nice clouds with little technique. The FV is very awkward hooked up to bubblers through tubing and water-resistance ruins your ability to make a thick hit. If you want water-filtration on the FV, I highly endorse the 50cent bubbler Vitolo recommends from china as it wont mess with your cloud technique or be fumbley and take up both hands. The solo is quality but my first one had ceramic flaking issues and my second one had fart smell. From what I understand this has been worked out. I prefer the FV to the solo due to external batteries, hit size with proper technique (trust me, they're huge), clean convection with simple visible stainless steel heating screen, small removable stem, ease of stirring, and ability to prepack bowls.

TLDR: FV makes very big clouds with practice and well dried and grinded bowls due to large bowl and is very convienient.
 

speedyg

Well-Known Member
My FV died today. No power/heat and the green LED does not light up when the button is activated. Made sure that the power switch was on and swapped out the battery. No joy!

I've had my FV for just over a month and have been using it with the Stage 2 kit the last couple of days. I did notice that it was running considerably warmer with the 3.7 batteries than it did with the 3.2s.

I contacted FV Customer Support via their website. Hopefully I will get their reply soon.
 
speedyg,

ru_frothi

Portable Vaporist
Hey Bvapst,
My flashvape came with some shiny metal flakes in the bottom and I just wiped it with moist paper towel and all was good for a while. Is the dot on the 'top part' on the heating screen? My heater screen and screen that first came packed inside have a little blackish dot on it in the same spot, and it always had. I wondered what it was too, but after installing the S2 and glowing it red a bunch of times it faded and I haven't even thought about. I assumed it was some dust that might of got stuck between the heater and screen and burned down there or just a part of the manufacturing process. I also thought maybe I brushed it while it was still too hot and melted the brush a bit but it doesn't make any flavors, smoke, or smell so I assume it was just some kind of oxidizing or carbonizing or something.

wall of text on light abv and proper technique and comparing to solo, TLDR at bottom:
Edit: I also kind of want to touch on the light abv. I've always get extremely even dark chocolate abv out of the s2 unless I over pack the bowl. I get very big hits compared to other portables and even some home vapes but practice is needed. People who've mastered more sensitive vaporizers like the flightbox or PD/log vape will be blasted away by this thing. People who like to be in-tune with the vapor-production like 7th floor users will like it. Follow the golden rules of very well dried herb and very fine powdery grind. Potency makes difference in cloud production ability too. How you prepare the bowl is 50% how thick of a cloud you'll produce. 2/5fths full of dry powder is optimal for big clouds as more will start to act as a heat sink and steal from your good convection.

My current massive-hit technique is a always-on micro-hits technique. I hold the button for about 3 seconds and begin an almost non-existent draw while watching the window for about 2 seconds. I can only describe it as doing the nose draw of the mflb without using your nose. You should see the vapor very slowly works its way up the top chamber while you do this but not even enter the mouth piece. Once the vapor looks like its whitish instead of blueish or looks too thick like its bordering on combustion I quickly change to a slow speed (but not super slow speed) for just a fraction of a second to cool the screen back down, then switch back to almost non-existent draw and repeat. The button stays pressed the whole time for up to 15 seconds and usually the lungs are full by then. If I'm using potent herb or have kief in the bowl, the vapor is too thick and I can not even fill my lungs. Under half-full but more than a third is optimal for big clouds as more will start to act as a heat sink and steal from your good convection.

And lastly, compared to the solo, when hit dry or with the mouthpiece bubbler with minimal water I can get equally thick and i'd argue tastier hits out of the FlashVapeS2. It can expose more herb to clean convection heat with its large flat heating chamber than the solo can in its .2 bowl that mostly conduction cooks the front of it. The Solo is the definite winner in water pipe usage, as it is designed ergonomically perfect, is easily invertible, fits directly into water pipes and is not draw sensitive and can make nice clouds with little technique. The FV is very awkward hooked up to bubblers through tubing and water-resistance ruins your ability to make a thick hit. If you want water-filtration on the FV, I highly endorse the 50cent bubbler Vitolo recommends from china as it wont mess with your cloud technique or be fumbley and take up both hands. The solo is quality but my first one had ceramic flaking issues and my second one had fart smell. From what I understand this has been worked out. I prefer the FV to the solo due to external batteries, hit size with proper technique (trust me, they're huge), clean convection with simple visible stainless steel heating screen, small removable stem, ease of stirring, and ability to prepack bowls.

TLDR: FV makes very big clouds with practice and well dried and grinded bowls due to large bowl and is very convienient.

Thanks for the info. Working on the Micro hit technique with the S1. I guess I'm drawing way to hard.

BTW: based on a lot of those likes you might really like the INH but thats another thread.
 
ru_frothi,
  • Like
Reactions: ShipDit

OF

Well-Known Member
I head a rumor that if fed ditch weed some vapes will actualy commit suicide.

This fits. I've heard that if you don't rotate your vapes enough the neglected ones get to feeling jealous and gang up on the faves and can sometimes force them to eat ditch weed with the expected results.

I see my cause right now as entertaining my lesser vapes to protect the really good ones. It's taking most of my time and lots of my stash, but at least my FV is safe fro the time being.....

OF
 

Bvapst

Well-Known Member
So about this light/blueish dot: after checking again, this dot is on the top and inside of the swivel cap. But it is external to the ring (which is around the top screen). So even if...it wouldn't be in contact with vapor or in the vapor/breathing path!

About "silver dot" just mean the black color after the very first opening, already went off. So with the time, when it will be closed, i guess there will be a "silver line" result of thread-rubbing. I guess the 2 first thread are too dry already!

I did combust yesterday night on my first bowl. Before that i did pre-heat with nothing inside (cleaning). However i also got super hits. Still need practice and i guess i should focus on 1 kind of battery for the moment.

Will report later after more practice. But I already can say i'm surprised how fast it works.
My first ascertainment was if you draw when you already see vapor coming, it can be too late already, depend on the speed draw and how long you hold the button. Today i will switch to S2 and try to perform it well before to try S1 again.

One question to longer FV user :
Could you take a picture of your heating screen? (the one which is not removable) I'm curious to see how it looks after longer use as i already combusted. Just to compare and see if i did damaged the screen or if it's "normal" with a time ?

In fact, what i liked and also decided me in my purchase was the ability to change and remplace screens (coming from a LB as a portable). But now i have it in my hands, i didn't knew heating screen and protecting one were so close to each other (lets say touching). And i now understand why the space is giving so much as a switch to pure convection! I'm gonna try it, and maybe won't get back to S1 batteries untill S2 are dead and i won't have choice.
 
Bvapst,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
My FV died today. No power/heat and the green LED does not light up when the button is activated. Made sure that the power switch was on and swapped out the battery. No joy!

I've had my FV for just over a month and have been using it with the Stage 2 kit the last couple of days. I did notice that it was running considerably warmer with the 3.7 batteries than it did with the 3.2s.

I contacted FV Customer Support via their website. Hopefully I will get their reply soon.

It's normal for the 3.7V batteries to make the FV run warmer, but I don't know what you mean by "considerably". Was it too hot to touch? Where was it hottest? I'm guessing the power button.

The FV is such a simple design that there aren't many points of failure. I almost never touch the latching switch on the bottom. I assume that's the one you meant when you said you made sure the power switch was on. If not, make sure that's not your problem. My guess, however, is that the power button has failed. That's a 10 amp switch but it seems to me to be the most likely culprit, especially if that's where you were getting excess heat. Mine gets pretty warm after heavy use with the 3.7V batteries but never too hot to touch.


One question to longer FV user :
Could you take a picture of your heating screen? (the one which is not removable) I'm curious to see how it looks after longer use as i already combusted. Just to compare and see if i did damaged the screen or if it's "normal" with a time ?

In fact, what i liked and also decided me in my purchase was the ability to change and remplace screens (coming from a LB as a portable). But now i have it in my hands, i didn't knew heating screen and protecting one were so close to each other (lets say touching). And i now understand why the space is giving so much as a switch to pure convection! I'm gonna try it, and maybe won't get back to S1 batteries untill S2 are dead and i won't have choice.

If you combust then you will get black spots on the bottom screen, but those do not mean it is functionally damaged, just cosmetically. The two screen system makes it difficult to damage the bottom non-removable heater screen. I've used kief in mine without fear because the tabbed screen takes all the clogging, but is easy to remove and clean.

There have been comments about the screens being delicate. While you certainly should be careful brushing and poking around, you shouldn't be able to damage any of the screens with normal use and cleaning.

The bottom heater screen is obviously the one that you have to be most careful with, but it's also the one that needs the least care. In nearly three months of heavy use I have not found a reason to do anything but brush the bottom screen once or twice.

The tabbed screens are easy to remove and clean, and you can prove to yourself how tough they are. Try poking a hole in one or tearing it. I'm sure it can be done but it would take a lot of force, more that you'd use under normal circumstances. The same thing applies to the top screens. They are a really fine mesh but that doesn't mean they are weak at all. Besides, both tabbed and top screens are easily replaced and inexpensive.

I think that the idea that these screens are delicate comes from the MFLB screen, which is made from a similar fine mesh. The difference is that the LB screen is bonded to rails by a process that introduces a weak point in the mesh. I don't think I've ever heard of a tear in a LB screen that didn't originate at the rails. The FV has no such weak point.

None of this is to say that you should brush or poke at your screens with any amount of force, but they are unlikely to be damaged unless you are really careless.
 

marduk

daydreamer
the diameter of the hole on the swivel cap for inserting the glass draw tube is exactly 7mm. the glass tube we use is 6.5mm, the the extra 0.5mm allowance for the seal. since silicon is very flexible, i think any tube around 7mm in diameter will work perfectly for the purpose of a whip to use with the FV. we are currently working on making a flexible hose adaptor system for the FV as well, so please stay tuned!

How are things progressing with the flexible hose adapter system?
 
marduk,

Lizard King

Well-Known Member
Beginner's tip: When removing/unscrewing the top section of the FlashVape (the section that contains the glass window), do so with the FlashVape UPSIDE DOWN, otherwise the glass window will fall right out once the section is fully unscrewed. Obviously, it needs to be put back on using the same method.

Luckily, I have cat-like reflexes and caught it betwen my toes.

So about this light/blueish dot: after checking again, this dot is on the top and inside of the swivel cap. But it is external to the ring (which is around the top screen). So even if...it wouldn't be in contact with vapor or in the vapor/breathing path!

I also have a small blue-ish dot on the top section of my FlashVape (I had to search for it). I'm not sure what it is either but it doesn't give me any cause for concern.
 

speedyg

Well-Known Member
It's normal for the 3.7V batteries to make the FV run warmer, but I don't know what you mean by "considerably". Was it too hot to touch? Where was it hottest? I'm guessing the power button.

The FV is such a simple design that there aren't many points of failure. I almost never touch the latching switch on the bottom. I assume that's the one you meant when you said you made sure the power switch was on. If not, make sure that's not your problem. My guess, however, is that the power button has failed. That's a 10 amp switch but it seems to me to be the most likely culprit, especially if that's where you were getting excess heat. Mine gets pretty warm after heavy use with the 3.7V batteries but never too hot to touch.

FV contacted me yesterday evening and we tried bypassing the switch (on the end cap) to see if it would power up. Still doesn't work. Like you, I've rarely used this switch but it makes sense to check it first. We will probably check the power button next.

What I meant by "considerably" warmer was that it did get almost too hot to hold with the 3.7 batteries. Don't know if this has anything to do with the failure but I'm sure we will find out the cause and get it corrected.
 
speedyg,

Vitolo

Vaporist
Beginner's tip: When removing/unscrewing the top section of the FlashVape (the section that contains the glass window), do so with the FlashVape UPSIDE DOWN, otherwise the glass window will fall right out once the section is fully unscrewed. Obviously, it needs to be put back on using the same method.

Luckily, I have cat-like reflexes and caught it betwen my toes.



I also have a small blue-ish dot on the top section of my FlashVape (I had to search for it). I'm not sure what it is either but it doesn't give me any cause for concern.
I am impressed.
My toes being weak and spastic, I was forced to lash out my lizard-like tongue, and snatch up the glass with it as the glass was about to hit the ground.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Beginner's tip: When removing/unscrewing the top section of the FlashVape (the section that contains the glass window), do so with the FlashVape UPSIDE DOWN, otherwise the glass window will fall right out once the section is fully unscrewed. Obviously, it needs to be put back on using the same method.

Luckily, I have cat-like reflexes and caught it betwen my toes.

I am impressed.
My toes being weak and spastic, I was forced to lash out my lizard-like tongue, and snatch up the glass with it as the glass was about to hit the ground.

Wait a minute, you're both lizards? :o
 
About "silver dot" just mean the black color after the very first opening, already went off. So with the time, when it will be closed, i guess there will be a "silver line" result of thread-rubbing. I guess the 2 first thread are too dry already!
Bvapst, I don't believe the threads should be black since they are not anodized, so I wouldn't worry about yours being unusual.

Since we're on the topic, here's an update on my "friction-fit" FlashVape: When I first modified the FV by filing the threads, I thought I had changed it from a threaded-fit to a friction-fit. However, I was still using screwing and unscrewing motions because it is often easier to use twisting force even when something is friction-fit (especially when really tight), for example the top of the FlashVape with the window is easier to remove by twisting it while pulling instead of just pulling it out straight.

Because after the modification the FV initially required substantial twisting force to open and close, I figured I was just mashing and grinding non-functional threads together therefore it was friction-fit. However, after doing this a few times and shedding more and more aluminum grit, I realized that I really hadn't created a friction-fit FV, but that I was actually still using functional threads and just screwing it and unscrewing like before, except now it was getting progressively easier to do as the threads cleared of excess debris from the vigorous filing.

What I now know is that my filing of the male and female threads rounded them out but did not ruin them, and after clearing all the debris what I have is a an easy-action threaded fit that hardly sheds debris. It appears the main problem straight out of the box is that the threads are too sharp. The sharp edges of the threads easily break off given that aluminum is a relatively soft metal. My now rounded threads still have plenty of metal to provide a strong and tight connection, and electrical conduction seems as good or better than before. But now it doesn't have that gritty feeling and screws and unscrews fairly easily even without grease.

Now, because the threads are rounded and I think somewhat flattened and widened by the filing, it feels like there is more frictional contact between them than before, perhaps leading to even better contact and conduction than when new (the better conduction may be my imagination, but it certainly isn't any worse in this regard than it was when brand new - the baby toasts up quickly).

If there is a difference between units that people are receiving, I would say it has to do with how sharp the threads are straight out of the box - the sharper threads causing worse problems as far as dealing with debris and clogged threads. However it is more likely that the people having the easiest time out of the gate are the ones who had more lube applied by the manufacturer, or those that applied their own in ample quantity.

Personally, I'm happy how mine turned out because I really don't feel I even need any lube now - it all seems tight, solid, and I'm having no debris problem.

Long-winded I know, but hopefully clear.
 
kelper,
  • Like
Reactions: ShipDit
Top Bottom