Dynavap VapCap

[PeteSeattle]

@Oogendoogan
@Vape Dr.
@sixstringsmash
@PeteSeattle


I LOVE all the new woody pics! The Burls, Cocobolos and the B&W Ebony pieces are all stunning.

Beautiful wood coupled with all the other custom material options coming up, without a doubt, it cannot be denied, the Vapcap is the most beautiful vaporizor on the Planet!

Bar none. Period.

I can't agree with you more. I haven't touched my powered vapes since my VC.

 

[Nō Itzub Mokuff]

how do you guys are installing the new metallic chamber on yours OG? i receive 2 but they dont fit exactly in the chamber...so i try force in the middle, but that deform the piece

That metal piece:

I couldn't find a definitive answer, but here are some clues I encountered:

But please, just to make sure...I push the screen out the chamber side and reinsert from the chamber side, right?

I ask because that's exactly what I did with the Ti diffuser in my OG then I see George's recommendation to insert it from the mouthpiece end (but it seemed to worked just as well the way I did it)

I don't remember with my OG TBH. I think I inserted the retaining ring & then the screen from the mouthpiece end, just be gentle & don't force anything.

One cool thing I noticed is the screen had slightly deformed through heat to be a slight UFO shape. This was due to 100's of heat cycles & I very firmly pushed it in originally using a dowel. FWIW both Underdog sized dowel are perfect for the Ti. The nylon size one for pushing out the screen & the standard size one for pushing it back in .

My best guess: only push the screen on its concave side. Doing so increases the curvature, and thus reduces pressure between the screen and the sidewalls (releasing).

The convex side faces the load, presumably as the greatest potential for accidental screen movement is during load tamping. When pressure is applied to the convex side, the screen curvature decreases and pressure between the screen and the sidewalls increases (resisting).

Removing the screen (chopstick): https://vid.me/zwRG

Inserting the screen (chopstick): https://vid.me/ecFC

Cleaning the screen: https://vid.me/Su15

 

[StormyPinkness]

Part of my glass project today ... In turquoise.

Thanks for looking.

I love the color, to me it's got a great 70's vibe to it (excluding the ti and cap).

 

[Shieldsab]

Well, combusted with the Vapcap today. Just trying to figure out ways to hold things and be able to keep the VC close enough to the heat without being able to see it. And apparently it was a bit too close. Luckily it was on what would've been the last heating cycle, so not much was wasted.
Blegh.
Now I have to replace that with the sweet citrus taste of vapor.

 

[Baron23]

I couldn't find a definitive answer, but here are some clues I encountered:







My best guess: only push the screen on its concave side. Doing so increases the curvature, and thus reduces pressure between the screen and the sidewalls (releasing).

The convex side faces the load, presumably as the greatest potential for accidental screen movement is during load tamping. When pressure is applied to the convex side, the screen curvature decreases and pressure between the screen and the sidewalls increases (resisting).

Removing the screen (chopstick): https://vid.me/zwRG

Inserting the screen (chopstick): https://vid.me/ecFC

Cleaning the screen: https://vid.me/Su15

Why in the world should we reinsert the Ti CCD from the mouthpiece end and work it the entire length of the body, pushing on the convex side as the concave side should face the chamber. Makes much more sense to reinsert from the chamber side.

Anybody have any good reasons for do it otherwise?

 

[Squiby]

The CCD is currently only available for the OG Vapcap and the Vapcap S. Below is George's explanation for inserting and removing the CCD.

The way it works I think is kinda fun. Just push in from the mouthpiece end of any standard VapCap or VapCap S.

All the VapCaps in this box have them as will all new ones shipping effective about now.

Use the tool I'll have on the website soon or an unsharpened pencil or dowel that fits. And push the CCD until it snaps into the groove. It will dome up and lock into place and hold tight until it is pushed out the chamber end being pushed from the mouthpiece end. The same way it gets put in, just keep pushing until it pops out. I will make video soon.

 

[Milkytime]

The fat end of a chopstick works perfectly...

This is what I use it works the best out of things I had lying around.

 

[PeteSeattle]

I love the color, to me it's got a great 70's vibe to it (excluding the ti and cap).

Thanks @StormyPinkness for your feedback.

You are right that color does gives it a retro vibe.

Keep a look out. Things coming out of the kiln tonight!

 

[Milkytime]

@PeteSeattle im liking the sonic screwdriver idea, the GF says i have too many vapes but I bet if I brought that home she would steal it for herself

 

[Nō Itzub Mokuff]

Why in the world should we reinsert the Ti CCD from the mouthpiece end and work it the entire length of the body, pushing on the convex side as the concave side should face the chamber. Makes much more sense to reinsert from the chamber side.

Anybody have any good reasons for do it otherwise?

In response to @Vapor_Eyes, 3 people said they prefer "dome down" (concave side facing chamber): @DocGonzo, @Squiby & @Jaydubya710. No one expressed a preference for "dome up".

I use the Ti screens dome down so less accumulates around the edge. You could do either way, you'd just probably need to clean it more often if you put it so the dome faces the cap.

The OG I received was "dome up". As I said above, I believe the logic behind this orientation is "the greatest potential for accidental screen movement is during load tamping."

The orientation of the screen may also alter the flow of air, though it is difficult to imagine it would be noticeable.

Perhaps @VapCap will address this in his next "airflow" post! (see http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-vapcap.18853/page-233#post-1009727)

 

[PeteSeattle]

@PeteSeattle im liking the sonic screwdriver idea, the GF says i have too many vapes but I bet if I brought that home she would steal it for herself

Lol. That's would be a very special project if not for you but for her indeed.

If I start it I'll share progress photos.

I've got to thank you all chiming in. You all keep me motivated to get something in the artists corner soon.

 

[Jaydubya710]

In response to @Vapor_Eyes, 3 people said they prefer "dome down" (concave side facing chamber): @DocGonzo, @Squiby & @Jaydubya710. No one expressed a preference for "dome up".

We were talking about the Ti screens for the woody, not the CCD.

 

[Squiby]

n response to @Vapor_Eyes, 3 people said they prefer "dome down" (concave side facing chamber): @DocGonzo, @Squiby & @Jaydubya710. No one expressed a preference for "dome up".

My response referred to the domed titanium screens we have bought to replace the ceramic screens while we wait for a CCD to become available for the Ti tipped Vapcaps.

TITANIUM SCREENS

I was not referring to the new CCD screens that are now included with the OG Vapcap and the Vapcap S.

That metal piece:

In regards to the CCD, it is meant to be sitting convex, dome up. Here are the instructions posted by George @VapCap

"The way it works I think is kinda fun. Just push in from the mouthpiece end of any standard VapCap or VapCap S.

All the VapCaps in this box have them as will all new ones shipping effective about now.

Use the tool I'll have on the website soon or an unsharpened pencil or dowel that fits. And push the CCD until it snaps into the groove. It will dome up and lock into place and hold tight until it is pushed out the chamber end being pushed from the mouthpiece end. The same way it gets put in, just keep pushing until it pops out. I will make video soon."


Sorry for the confusion...

 

[Baron23]

The CCD is currently only available for the OG Vapcap and the Vapcap S. Below is George's explanation for inserting and removing the CCD.

Yeah, I got that. Read just like everybody else. But it doesn't shed any light on why he recommends inserting the CCD at the mouthpiece end, pushing it the entire length of the body, to have it snap in place. My OG has a CCD. I did removed and reinserted it, before seeing George's post, by pushing out the chamber end (from the MP end) and inserted it from the chamber end with a flat end punch of the right size and it snapped into place as described.

Oh, well....doesn't matter.

I did just put an 8 mm Ti solid screen (as pictured above) into my Ti Woody and that made ALL the difference in the world in draw resistance. If anybody is still running a ceramic screen, and especially if you think your draw is tight, this IS the fix! Just like a neeeeew day in America! LOL

I did receive some coorespondence from George and he asked to share that the remaining challenge on a Ti CCD for the Ti models is how to fix it in place. I noticed when I removed my ceramic from the Ti Woody, that there is a little spring washer that goes in on top to hold the screen in. Not sure why that wouldn't work for Ti with CCD (except they are extraordinarily easy to lose) but I'm sure not trying to design George's baby. But one will be coming. In the mean time, I think the 8 mm screen we have been talking about works just fine.

Cheers all

 

[Nō Itzub Mokuff]

We were talking about the Ti screens for the woody, not the CCD.

My response referred to the domed titanium screens we have bought to replace the ceramic screens while we wait for a CCD to become available for the Ti tipped Vapcaps.

Whoops, my bad.

 

[Ruta]

George is the man, true to his word some CCD screens arrived at mine in the UK, no messing, no fussing, why can't all of life be like that
I snapped my outer glass on the OG with my massive spam hands trying to get the other screen out, so i just had to put it in my Ti tipped, is that bad, i'm impatient and rebellious like that?!?
They appear to give you a better air flow, although this could be part placebo, part too much experimenting, it's all just too hard to tell when a product performs so well anyways!
I do know how nice they look though, only Vapcap can up the game on screens as well
Anyway, enough adoration, cheers @VapCap

 

[Kalessin]

I recently used my OmniVap with water for the first time. It turns out it fits my silicone Crafty/Mighty mouthpiece adaptor that I got from @Ratchett at delta3dstudios.com

It fits perfect and works wonderfully, it's nice being able to see the vapor.

I also got a double torch, the single was too slow but more precise. My triple was faster but used a lot of butane. So far the double seems to strike a nice middle ground.

Got my double flame Scorch torch just now. Two bowls in and I'm loving it. Much faster than the single, and I really like the aesthetics of it. Feels nice in the hand. Doesn't get uncomfortably hot. Seems to be giving me a darker, more thorough extraction too.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

Got my double flame Scorch torch just now. Two bowls in and I'm loving it. Much faster than the single, and I really like the aesthetics of it. Feels nice in the hand. Doesn't get uncomfortably hot. Seems to be giving me a darker, more thorough extraction too.

It is a nice torch. I've discovered it runs out of butane fast, probably because it's so small. That's understandable. I'm sure it's just a smaller tank, I doubt it's using more butane.

It's nice and small, looks good, and feels great in the hand. It heats the cap quickly and evenly. I think it will be my preferred pocket torch for out and about and I'll use my triple at home.

 

[Stevenski]

After breaking my OG I had nothing to lose by messing about with it & this is what ended up being made.

I replaced the ceramic screen with a Ti one & filed four grooves in the chamber end. Inside a 14mm whip adapter I inserted a XL condenser with O rings & connected the two with a piece of silicone whip. It works surprisingly well & gives a deep extraction. No doubt it will end up broken but fuck it I turned something already broken into a working device.

I think that is the single coolest thing with the VapCap system is the fact it is limited by your own imagination & tools. If the glass stems @PeteSeattle is creating become available I can see some in my future much like @phattpiggie will get some too.

 

[YungLeaner]

Does anyone have severe clicking issues? It's possible I don't and that I'm just being weird but I'm not having great success with my OG. The first time I heated it up for the first hit cycle I overheated it and combusted, but I've only managed to get one click out of it since, despite often roasting the herbs very very well. Did I permanently damage the cap with one overheat? I'm getting solid clouds and taste but without the click it's gonna be hard to keep a handle on :/

 

[Stevenski]

What kind of torch are you using @YungLeaner (single, twin etc)? Try a few cycles dry & see if you get any clicking? I don't always get two clicks but it is the loud click you want to watch out for as that's the one that matters. FWIW I have purchased three caps & they are all little a bit different in clickyness but do the job.

One interesting thing is I managed to combust through the OG GonG just before. It was my fault but it requires heating slightly higher on the cap than the Ti does.

 

[PeteSeattle]

After breaking my OG I had nothing to lose by messing about with it & this is what ended up being made.

I think that is the single coolest thing with the VapCap system is the fact it is limited by your own imagination & tools. If the glass stems @PeteSeattle is creating become available I can see some in my future much like @phattpiggie will get some too.

Soon, @Stevenski , soon. Keep a look out

In the meantime ...

The Jet Black Ti Glassy

Jet Black Ti Glass curvy (looks like I need to expand the collar just about .018 to fit the Ti wth the cap. Easy fix. Also fits @Ed's TnT mouth pieces, so yes, it spins. Also the curvy has an easy to find carb since its placed on a Maria bump.

And a clear worked shorty with Ed's wooden tip as well (still practicing in clear until I get it just right).

If you all notice different carb hole spots is because I wanted to try out different configurations.

Thanks for staying up a taking a gander. I hope to crank out some more tomorrow.

A gong might be next to practice ... stay tuned!

 

[Baron23]

Does anyone have severe clicking issues? It's possible I don't and that I'm just being weird but I'm not having great success with my OG. The first time I heated it up for the first hit cycle I overheated it and combusted, but I've only managed to get one click out of it since, despite often roasting the herbs very very well. Did I permanently damage the cap with one overheat? I'm getting solid clouds and taste but without the click it's gonna be hard to keep a handle on :/

I had a cap that either the clicker just broke or I fried but wow, I didn't heat it THAT much. In any case, while both my vapcaps have working caps, I ALWAYS do a "one-one thousand" count up to "three-one thousand" and if no click yet I stop and draw.

I also combusted the first time I tried to use my vapcap OG. It was awful. I just missed the click and kept on heating. Count and you won't have any worries IMO.

@PeteSeattle - great stuff. Personally, I like glass bodies and I really like my OG with the glass condenser. I like the black glass. That's screaming hot. Clear glass only interests me if it had a clear glass condenser. I do like seeing vapor out of the corner of my eye and its easy to tell when the dang thing needs a cleaning.

I also like the carb hole on a bump...a Maria, I think you called it.

Please keep it up....definitely going in the right direction.

 

[Andreaerdna]

@baron @YungLeaner I think the cap is quite resistent to over heat even if @VapCap warned to not over heat it because of the risk of damaging it.

In severe OCD behaviour I torched the cap in order to burn clean the condensate. Burning it red hot way long after the click until no smoke cames out. Did it at least 10 times, once a week. They both still perform perfectly but I stopped doing it and I do not suggest it. only say this because I think a little overheat should not damage it.

On the other hand I do believe that if you heat it with too much heat ( big torch or very close to the cap torch aiming on the end facing mouthpiece) than the click happens "too late" when load is burning. As @Stevenski suggested try empty trials variing distance or flame source, if blank trials cames out without any click I suggest you to ask dynavap

 

[b0]

Soon, @Stevenski , soon. Keep a look out

In the meantime ...

The Jet Black Ti Glassy

Jet Black Ti Glass curvy (looks like I need to expand the collar just about .018 to fit the Ti wth the cap. Easy fix. Also fits @Ed's TnT mouth pieces, so yes, it spins. Also the curvy has an easy to find carb since its placed on a Maria bump.

And a clear worked shorty with Ed's wooden tip as well (still practicing in clear until I get it just right).

If you all notice different carb hole spots is because I wanted to try out different configurations.

Thanks for staying up a taking a gander. I hope to crank out some more tomorrow.

A gong might be next to practice ... stay tuned!

Did you say GonG? Add me to the list for a GonG and a yellow glass sleeve (short) for my omnivap! yellow drop or electric yellow would be amazing!!