MinnBobber

Well-Known Member
I think that the Vapcap is the future for fast, efficient, portable, convenient and pleasurable vaporization.

Being untethered from the constant inconvenience of having to deal with cords, organize, keep track of, replace and charge batteries, adds to the simple joy of getting high.

It doesn't need to be complicated; just get a Vapcap.
............................................................................
This X2

I'm an M newbie and have had a bias against butane vapes, or at least a complete unfamiliarity with them. This Dynavap thread got me intrigued enough to try the M and glad I did.
Initial learning curve was thrown way off by a faulty cap that gave almost no click/pop/vibration. Dynavap and Arielle quickly helped and the replacement cap has much more noise and vibration which has greatly enhanced the experience !!

With the sale, I guess I'll be moving up the Dynavap food chain/ VAS chain :)
Still dialing things in but now life with the M is good.

I'll go over to Vapcap torch thread as a dbl torch might be better than my VC Triple. Especially if less noise and maybe butane lasts longer and smaller than triple???

EDIT: Tech flame question: some have posted the big blue flame is the hottest, having the tip right in the big blue flame is hottest.
Isn't the hottest spot about 1/4" above the end/ tip of the big bright blue flame?
Just curious
 
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Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
@Smokey McVape Don't take anything personal, we are only trying to be helpful! :D

In practice I find my OG is no more likely to combust than my Ti tip models if you respect the click. After your most recent comment about jet black ABV I think I know what's going on.

When I first got my Omni I often thought I was combusting because the ABV would end up almost black. It had been a while since I had last combusted so I forgot the taste. I was also using mostly convection vaporizers which don't darken your materials as much, especially at the mid-range temps I usually use. With my VapCaps I like to go for high temp extractions and this results in nearly black ABV if completely extracted.

After a while of getting this near black ABV I had an incident of actual combustion. The taste was unmistakable and foul. :puke:

It will also linger and affect the flavor of your next chamber. With a near-black extraction my next chambers always taste fresh and delicious. Not so when I have accidentally combusted.

A standard high temp extraction doesn't taste amazing in the last few hits, but it certainly tastes a lot better than combustion. The smoke will linger in the air and have a yellow tinge. Vapor will disperse within 15-20 seconds.

I will say the OG seems to reach a higher temp at the click. If you are going for lower temp extractions the Ti tip is probably a better choice. I think it is a little easier to "adjust" the temp with the Ti tips. The solid glass surface seems to achieve a more consistent temp across the chamber no matter where you heat. The grooves in the Ti tips seem to insulate the top from the bottom if that makes sense, so if you're heating near the cap the bottom of the chamber walls won't get as hot with Ti as it will with glass.

I'm no engineer so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.

I almost always heat past the click and I go for that near black ABV most of the time. This usually takes 3-5 heating cycles. If I only do two heating cycles I end up with a medium-brown ABV. Then I get a cycle or two and end up with dark brown ABV. The next cycle or two are whispy clean up hits that end in near black ABV.

In short, I think you will be more pleased with the performance of the Ti tip over the glass. It is easier to dial in the low temps. Also, you may not want to do a full amount of heating cycles, when you have some extra time, wait for everything to cool down and check the chamber contents between heating cycles to find your preferred stopping point, which you can use as a reference in the future.

Also, it is easier to get low temps in any model with a loose pack versus a tight pack. Coarser grind is also better for low temps, or even not grinding at all.

For what it's worth I pack mine full of medium grind, .10 grams, heat past the click for two seconds, and never have problems with combustion in any of my models unless I'm too medicated and forget to wait for the cool down click before reheating. That's only happened a couple times.
 
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Carlos8400

Well-Known Member
Carlos, if you are a patient man, and like to let the pennies look after the pounds (or cents look after the francs, if I remember correctly from school), it wil still be cheaper to get the M from Dynavap this week, even with $13 shipping.

And you will want a torch. The triple from Dynavap, or even the quad, will surely be great value for money compared to similar items elsewhere.
Maybe you already have one though? And you may want some spare screens,,orings? All cheaper from Dynavap with the sale on.

Just a thought. There should be no customs charges either, just a longer wait, but not too long (like 10 to 14 days usually I think).
Your call buddy. Happy shopping!:)

Thanks, once i factored in customs it was actually a bit cheaper to buy from Vaposhop. I buy a lot abroad and 100% of my parcels get hit by customs. Add in the £12.50 handling fee from our friends at Parcelfarce and things get out of hand real fast.
If i like it i might get a few bits and pieces from the US later on, but just for a quick try it was easier to use Vaposhop.
Also, although i would feel kinda bad doing it, they have a 100% satisfied or you can send it back policy. I have dealt with them in the past and they have a great customer service.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
Quick question... how do vapcaps handle hash, particularly the hard kind that doesn't melt?
Not only is the Vapcap super portable, efficient and the most attractive vaporizer on the market today with a customer service so great that it's hard to believe until experienced, it is the epitome of versatility.

The Vapcap will vaporize anything you might want to throw at it.

It is great for dry herb, soft hash, hard hash, shatter, wax, kief etc.

I have some soft Afghan hash that I pinch into a flat pancake. I also like to vape some rock hard Moroccan hash sliced thinly with a razor blade. Both are just tossed into the chamber and heated a second or two past the click. Hash vapes wonderfully in the Vapcap.

Shatter, wax and butter concentrates work great with a S&B concentrate pad.
 
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WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Not only is the Vapcap super portable, efficient and the most attractive vaporizer on the market today with a customer service so great that it's hard to believe until experienced, it is the epitome of versatility.

The Vapcap will vaporize anything you might want to throw at it.

It is great for dry herb, soft hash, hard hash, shatter, wax, life etc.

I have some soft Afghan hash that I pinch into a flat pancake. I also like to vape some rock hard Moroccan hash sliced thinly with a razor blade. Both are just tossed into the chamber and heated a second or two past the click. Hash vapes wonderfully in the Vapcap.

Shatter, wax and butter concentrates work great with a S&B concentrate pad.
LIFE though...LMAO...i hope it tastes good when you vape it :rofl:
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
Thanks, once i factored in customs it was actually a bit cheaper to buy from Vaposhop. I buy a lot abroad and 100% of my parcels get hit by customs. Add in the £12.50 handling fee from our friends at Parcelfarce and things get out of hand real fast.
If i like it i might get a few bits and pieces from the US later on, but just for a quick try it was easier to use Vaposhop.
Also, although i would feel kinda bad doing it, they have a 100% satisfied or you can send it back policy. I have dealt with them in the past and they have a great customer service.
If you are happy going to Vaposhop then that is cool. I respect them a lot for the effort they make to serve us all, we gotta support them!
However, for future reference, you should not need to worry about customs charges from Dynavap.

Their products are so cheap, that it is impossible to rack up a total order bill above $15 currently I believe!;)

So it will depend on your local import VAT threshold. In the UK, it is £15. And for sure, the VAT is neglible, but the bastards then charge you extra, just for the pleasure of having them rob you in the first place!:lol: (Those who know me round here have probably observed by now that I dont love the governments! :argh:)

We only get billed £8 handling fee, but not for Dynavap orders. But now I am confused as you quoted the £12.50. I was assuming you are based in France, but I know you move around. Sorry if I have been innaccurately presumptious (wow, another 2 long words on the bounce! Boy do I sound scholarly today!):lol:
 
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hinglemccringleberry

Well-Known Member
Dual flame lighter, Ti Woody - I let the outer flame barely touch the tip, I routinely heat upwards to 1 second past the click and Ive never, ever even come close to combusting in the 4 months Ive owned my Vapcap.
The same cant be said for my Sticky Brick jr, which I combust with half the time I use it no matter how careful I try to be with it. I love the vapcap for how foolproof it is.
That being said, it has not made me want to ditch my electronic portables. I like going back and forth between the two, Im sorry but there are simply those times where the use of a portable e-vape is more ideal.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
LIFE though...LMAO...i hope it tastes good when you vape it :rofl:
I immediately thought of this:

When you see the VapCap for the first time, you can feel him growing on you.
When it's yours, you can start growing on him.

IMG_5720.jpg

(35mm - f2.5 - 1/250s - iso 100 - featuring an injured life form)

"Dont judge each day by the harvest you reap but by the seeds that you plant "
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Is the M interchangeable with other mouthpieces/Omni condenser or does the body/mouthpiece being one piece make that not possible?
I would think you could use an XL condenser and a spinning mouthpiece to make an MXLS. It would probably look very odd though. I would love to see a picture of this franken-vape if anyone has the parts to make it happen!

When the Omni XL condenser is released it would probably work but I'm not sure about that.
 

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
Does anyone has some experience with cleaning their wood body's or stems?

Each time i clean my Omni ti i try not to touch the inside of the body with my condensor when take everything apart. I can imagine i would sometimes touch the (my soon new) wooden body and leave some resin stains.
It's hard to clean resin off of wood especially if it's raw wood. It begins to soak in immediately and there's little you can do to remove it completely without damaging the wood.

I would try to wipe out as much as possible with a dry paper towel then swap with iso alcohol on a qtip. Make sure you run paper towel through it again to soak up the now dirty alcohol.

This is one of the reasons I switched to stainless steel liners in my wood stems. I don't have to worry about resin on the inside and cleaning is super easy.
 

Carlos8400

Well-Known Member
If you are happy going to Vaposhop then that is cool. I respect them a lot for the effort they make to serve us all, we gotta support them!
However, for future reference, you should not need to worry about customs charges from Dynavap.

Their products are so cheap, that it is impossible to rack up a total order bill above $15 currently I believe!;)

So it will depend on your local import VAT threshold. In the UK, it is £15. And for sure, the VAT is neglible, but the bastards then charge you extra, just for the pleasure of having them rob you in the first place!:lol: (Those who know me round here have probably observed by now that I dont love the governments! :argh:)

We only get billed £8 handling fee, but not for Dynavap orders. But now I am confused as you quoted the £12.50. I was assuming you are based in France, but I know you move around. Sorry if I have been innaccurately presumptious (wow, another 2 long words on the bounce! Boy do I sound scholarly today!):lol:

I spend most of my time in the UK, but still travel across the channel on a regular basis.
I just checked my last few ParcelForce customs invoices and it was actually £13.50 Clearance Fee not £12.50! Apparently the fee varies between £8 and £13.50 depending on the weather, or what the driver had for lunch.

In the many years i have dealt with HMRC and ParcelForce i have learnt one thing, they will do ANYTHING to screw you over and tax you. It is a real racket.

In the past i have had them add the shipping costs to the value of the parcel, just to get above the minimum taxable threshold and be able to tax me. I ended up paying around £1 VAT and and £13.50 clearance fee for a parcel worth a tenner. ParcelFOrce blamed HMRC, HMRC blamed ParcelForce, i lost hours of my life being told "your call is important to us, please hold" for nothing, and never saw any money back.

I wasn't going to take that gamble to potentially save a couple quid on the off chance it slipped through.
 
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SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
It's hard to clean resin off of wood especially if it's raw wood. It begins to soak in immediately and there's little you can do to remove it completely without damaging the wood.

I would try to wipe out as much as possible with a dry paper towel then swap with iso alcohol on a qtip. Make sure you run paper towel through it again to soak up the now dirty alcohol.

This is one of the reasons I switched to stainless steel liners in my wood stems. I don't have to worry about resin on the inside and cleaning is super easy.
Keep that Iso for another task my friend. Try Jack Daniels Honey, with your same technique, using as little alcohol as possible. That's a tip from our good friend @NickDlow :bowdown:

:2c:
:peace:
 

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
Keep that Iso for another task my friend. Try Jack Daniels Honey, with your same technique, using as little alcohol as possible. That's a tip from our good friend @NickDlow :bowdown:

:2c:
:peace:

Is this a joke? I certainly wouldn't waste good whisky to clean my Vapcap. That's what the iso is for.
Ok now i'm curious
Do the body's and stems with a crown have an inner liner or is it's a DIY job?

Thanks for the help!
No the crowns are only on the tips and do not have a liner.

Sorry if I made it sound like a diy thing. I tend to forget that we have so many new cappers in the thread. I produce aftermarket stems and bodies for vapcaps. The SS liner is something that I build into my stems and would be difficult to install on a finished piece.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
Is the M interchangeable with other mouthpieces/Omni condenser or does the body/
The Omni condenser will not operate properly and is not compatible with the stainless steel M tip.

The M has a standard length SS condenser, so you could swap out the one piece SS M body/mp for any 45mm body, straight or VonG and a spinning wood mp. Or you could swap it out for any 62mm stem, straight or VonG and no added mp.

If you bought an XL SS condenser you could mate the SS M tip with any 62mm stem, straight or VonG and a spinning wood mp.

Ok now i'm curious
Do the body's and stems with a crown have an inner liner or is it's a DIY job?
The crowns are small SS end caps that protect the wood bodies and stem from heat and possible cracking.

I have never had to clean my wood bodies or stems. They typically don't get soiled since the inside of the stem/body is not exposed at all to the vapor path. The vapor travels through the SS condenser which sits in the Vapcap tip and goes the length of the midsection (body or stem) and through the mp. All I do to my wood components; bodies, stems and mps, is to condition them with hemp oil/beeswax as I would any cherished piece of wood.
 

Formersmoker85

The dude abides
I have never had to clean my wood bodies or stems. They typically don't get soiled since the inside of the stem/body is not exposed at all to the vapor path. The vapor travels through the SS condenser which sits in the Vapcap tip and goes the length of the midsection (body or stem) and through the mp. All I do to my wood components; bodies, stems and mps, is to condition them with hemp oil/beeswax as I would any cherished piece of wood.

It helps to clean more often such that you don't get big globs of resin forming on your condenser.

Great i'll check it out when recieve my new Ti woody XLS ebony and hardwood body for my Omni :brow:
 
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Derrrpp

For the world is hollow and I have touched the sky
I would think you could use an XL condenser and a spinning mouthpiece to make an MXLS. It would probably look very odd though. I would love to see a picture of this franken-vape if anyone has the parts to make it happen!

I posted this picture a few pages back. It's my Ti tip instead of the SS M tip but you get the idea (sorry it's not really the best picture in the world haha)
ju626WL.jpg


I call it the Ti M-XLS. :D I put the Ti tip from my woody on the M body, and added the XL condenser and spinning mouthpiece. Fun to mess around with, though I've since reassembled the two vapes with their correct parts.
Edit: Holy crap, this was less than a week ago and already more than 20 pages back! Damn this thread moves fast! :o
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
It's funny. I have been wondering if the small length addition of an XL would make spinning the VC for heating easier, even tho the difference was small. It seems I have answered that by putting the fatty MP on the S MP to use my TiWS with water. The additional length DOES make a difference and it is easier to spin for me.
So, looks like the next VC is gonna be an XL. Just for :science:. (Oy, then I'll need an XL stash...)
It helps to clean more often such that you don't get big globs of resin forming on your condenser.
Interesting, I haven't really felt the need to clean my Woody yet. I must not be using it enough. Or its lack of transparency is fooling me.
 
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