Dynavap VapCap

[cybrguy]

You can, of course, fill the tip half full but it works better (packs) to fill the tip, so putting the CCD at half bowl works best.

 

[condition]

I have the old omni and awaiting for the 2021 model. But I think the omni that I have now has a 5 fin titanium tip

 

[ClearBlueLou]

I see the conversation has come back around to bowl size, and setting CCDs in place, so here’s a terrific post from @Dynalowrider on how to do that:

Want to adjust your screens in the ti-tip easily? Next time you are at your local hardware, auto parts store, Harbor Freight, or lumber yard, look for the junk sale table. Pick up a cheap set of twist drills. It doesn't matter if they are metric or inch. Now you have a pusher to push the screen out, plus a handful of stir sticks.

...or just use your condenser to push up / out on your screens

While in the hardware section, pick-up a stainless steel M-8 bolt at least 1" or 24.5mm long, and two (2) nuts. Thread both nuts on the bolt. Holding it by the head, set the lower nut to the depth you want the screen, and lock it in place with the other nut. If the screen is too cupped to be snug in the bowl, turn it cup down, and push it in with the bolt. Put the bolt in your kit for next time.

This is a good trick, easy to use, and a lot less nerve-wracking than other methods I’ve tried (though they work too).

The best way to straighten out the screens, hit'em square with a hammer on a flat piece of steel. Doc

Bend the crap out of your CCD? Here’s your solution; personally, I like a 5# sledge for this - one and done, y’know?

 

[cybrguy]

I have a steel rod I got from someone here (@beyond6strings I think) with a diameter just short of the inside of a tip. It allows me to seat the CCD pretty easily.

 

[endof3d]

The best tool I saw was one that @TommyDee created. A wooden dowel with a diameter just a bit larger than the mouth of the tip and a short turned section that fit into the bowl precisely the depth of the level of the CCD insertion point. He placed the CCD on the top of the turned part of the dowel and simply pushed the tip down on top of it. Perfect, almost instant fit with zero bending every time. I want one.

 

[notams]

It's finicky at best getting those damn screens to go half mast.

@condition If the goal is micro dosing then I may suggest not gringing your cannabis but merely pulling the nugs apart by hand into little tiny pieces. I think it's easier to have a tiny little nug bouncing around rather than messing with the CCD placement.

This is a quick and easy way to go back and forth from small to big loads without moving the screen. But, as @cybrguy mentioned, it's best to pack a half bowl rather than fill one halfway.

 

[whatitdew]

I stopped messing with the screens
always keep it full size oven
pack,it full, light tamp, 90% of the time
i usually hit 1-3 full loads in a session
double that if it’s saliva Dom, lol
if I want less I just pack less in, dosent seem to matter to me much if oven isn’t full.

That new simrell has been calling my name!
not sure I can hold out much longer
vortex is still the king for me over the new omni
feels more precision to me, the airport too.
some reason it tastes cleaner to me too, then the later Dynavap offerings


EDIT* just ordered one!

 

[sirwalter]

I use the end of a Storz and Bickel brush to press in CCD's. Works for me. I only use the small bowl size on all my vapcaps.

 

[Greenleaf88]

I saw George show the best trick, use your mouth piece to push your ccd down it makes a click on every posisition. You can find the video on YouTube. Great and easy I am able to pop mine out and put it back in easily for cleaning.

 

[Ramahs]

I am still new in DYNAVAP, and I don't know how to load half bowl. Do you mean load the half tip? I tried to move the screen of the tip half way up (to load it half) and it falls.

I can never get the screen to stay in the half-bowl grooves, so I don't bother.

If I want a half-bowl, then O fill the bowl halfway. It works fine.

 

[danielj]

these are the ones Inmake and use. stain

these are the ones I make and use for CCD stainless steel with some mass behind em for pushing

large OD tip for inserting thinner tip for popping the CCD out


Would love to see pics of other designs our friends here have come up with

 

[kushbush]

The best tool I saw was one that @TommyDee created. A wooden dowel with a diameter just a bit larger than the mouth of the tip and a short turned section that fit into the bowl precisely the depth of the level of the CCD insertion point. He placed the CCD on the top of the turned part of the dowel and simply pushed the tip down on top of it. Perfect, almost instant fit with zero bending every time. I want one.

Just got my first Omnivap. Already destroyed a ccd. Sounds like I could use one of those too..

 

[stark1]

Once saw the condenser used to pop out the old CCD, and to click
Seat a new one.

By George, I believe.

 

[MedicinalMonkeyWrench]

I like a full bowl X2

 

[condition]

Thanks for multiple replies.

It's finicky at best getting those damn screens to go half mast.

@condition If the goal is micro dosing then I may suggest not gringing your cannabis but merely pulling the nugs apart by hand into little tiny pieces. I think it's easier to have a tiny little nug bouncing around rather than messing with the CCD placement.

This what I am doing now. I cut by hand a small piece from a nug of strawberry haze usually, not too packed or too tight loaded, then after 4-5 draws I blow it outside and turn it upside down for couple of draws (I am using an IH). I do it because I prefer the flavor and because I found that grinded herb's vapor is warmer and not so pleasant, so I wanted

This is a quick and easy way to go back and forth from small to big loads without moving the screen. But, as @cybrguy mentioned, it's best to pack a half bowl rather than fill one halfway.

I tried it again today on a used tip and the screen stayed so far. The only difference with yesterday that felt down on loading, is that today the tip is not clean and its sticky.

 

[cybrguy]

these are the ones Inmake and use. stain

these are the ones I make and use for CCD stainless steel with some mass behind em for pushing

large OD tip for inserting thinner tip for popping the CCD out


Would love to see pics of other designs our friends here have come up with

This is the one I would have bought if I hadn't gotten that rod. I like that the other side is a good remover of the CCD. I have often bent a CCD while removing, tho a good whack with a hammer usually straightens it out.

 

[nonamekevin]

I like a full bowl X2View attachment 7088

That is actually pretty awesome looking. Diy or purchased somewhere?

 

[MedicinalMonkeyWrench]

That is actually pretty awesome looking. Diy or purchased somewhere?

It's awesome in function too. I got it from @tandeminnovations

https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/x2-by-tandem-innovations-dynavap-double-adapter.50997/

 

[kushbush]

Double Adapter | Tandem Innovations

Tandem Innovations first product is the X2, a 8mm double adapter. It's milled from high-quality stainless steel and features extremely durable Viton o-rings.

www.tandem-innovations.de

 

[Pepeluis33]

To half the bowl I use a couple of fine chopsticks. Hold the CCD between the two chopsticks, rest one stick on a table while holding with the hand the other, then move the tip along until you hear the click.

 

[RustyOldNail]

To half the bowl I use a couple of fine chopsticks. Hold the CCD between the two chopsticks, rest one stick on a table while holding with the hand the other, then move the tip along until you hear the click.

Funny reading this right after I finished cutting and sanding a nice bamboo chopstick. Bamboo seems to last forever, use them all the time for many things, including EATING Chinese food, that’s the BONUS.

 

[chicofrito]

I find the same thing with all of my IH's.
I think the caps get to temperature BEFORE the bowl with IH's (the metal used for the caps is much thinner than the bowl) as I NEVER have this issue with a torch. This would account for the drastic difference in vapour production between the 2 techniques and after all the Vapcap was designed to be used with a torch.

I like my Induction Heater but I use single flame 95% of the time, it hits much harder with more flavor and you have much more control. I think the discs are the offender, they are way more magnetic than other parts so they'll get hot super fast, feels like pointing the torch at the tip, you'll get no vapor on first click but eventually the cap get to temperature. I think the bowl, ccd etc aren't supposed to get hot.

Now theres a brilliant idea! A (slightly) thicker VapCap designed for an iH? With nubs inside, for a ( slightly ) freer air intake.

On the other hand, an iH/VC storage unit combo, for a portable menage á deux would be an awesome EDC.

Just blowing some air
.

I always thought about soldering a small ferromagnetic ring at the base of cap.

 

[stark1]

Solder/heat/lungs mix may cause a medical issue down the line.
Plus, how effective would a closed ring be, if the concept is
To allow a bit moreairflow.

I believe the TED is a mixture of both convection/conduction, with
The tip’s walls driving the conduction mechanism.

Of course I may be blowing hot air up my butt

 

[ClearBlueLou]

I like my Induction Heater but I use single flame 95% of the time, it hits much harder with more flavor and you have much more control. I think the discs are the offender, they are way more magnetic than other parts so they'll get hot super fast, feels like pointing the torch at the tip, you'll get no vapor on first click but eventually the cap get to temperature. I think the bowl, ccd etc aren't supposed to get hot.

I always thought about soldering a small ferromagnetic ring at the base of cap.

I thought the point was for the cap to heat and transfer that heat to the tip, which then held the heat until cooldown, providing the temps required to vape the Bud with that heat. I have no idea what to say about the role of magnetism in your scenario: for one thing, you suggest you’re overheating the tip...and then you say the cap only comes ‘up to temp’ “eventually”. I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure the cap *can’t* hold enough heat to flip the discs: it ALL transfers to the tip, and only when IT is hot enough can the cap even *be* hot enough for the discs to flip.

Honestly it doesn’t *sound* like you’ve got a firm grip on controlling your experience. Personally, I’ve never really gotten along with torch lighters so I rely on my IH these days, exactly for the sake of predictability. I hope I don’t sound harsh - I had a bumpy path getting used to my Omni, my first Vapcap. I posted about my frustrations at some length (first half of ‘17, I sounded a lot like where you seem to be in terms of satisfaction), and also about what I learned climbing the user curve. IIRC what got me out of it was dumping my thinking about it and going back to the basics and starting again, letting the ‘Cap tell *me* how it wanted to work (what it means to respect the click).

feeling awkward, wanting to be helpful

 

[condition]

To half the bowl I use a couple of fine chopsticks. Hold the CCD between the two chopsticks, rest one stick on a table while holding with the hand the other, then move the tip along until you hear the click.

I have never heard a click when moving CCD. While awaiting for the new omni to arrive, can you confirm that the the ti-tip of old omni clicks when CCD placed properly halfway?

I have a steel rod I got from someone here (@beyond6strings I think) with a diameter just short of the inside of a tip. It allows me to seat the CCD pretty easily.View attachment 7082

Sorry for the late quote. So the steel rod is the tool I see in the pic above and from what I understand you use it to press the CCD from the top half way down, where it clicks and stays in place. Can you confirm that?