Dynavap VapCap

[thunderstealer1337]

The ti and ss tips require diff heating techniques albeit torch or ih, do you do different things for ss vs ti tips?

 

[Wolfsie]

I find that in my Rover 2 I can push the new Vong/Omni tips to about 3-4s after the click. Definitely noticing a much more full extraction that way. Prior to the new tips, I was much preferring SS tips as I often use a water piece.

Wondering if anybody here has any input about the new Omni and mouth to lung pulls vs. just a long steady draw. When I first got the Omni 21 my hits were slightly lackluster for me because I was trying to do mouth to lung pulls like I would with my Stinger + 21M setup. Though I find I get great results with that technique with the Stinger, it seem for the Omni 21 I need to switch up the technique to just pulling hard. What is your draw technique to produce the heaviest clouds with the new Omni?

 

[ClearBlueLou]

Speaking as a rule of thumb, the TI tip cools ~3x faster than the SS tip (across multiple tips/caps, prior to the ‘21 redesigns). ‘21 redesigns affect both TI and SS tips, so we’ll be recalibrating

 

[TommyDee]

My first experience with the '20-M was the same - light ABV. The vape appeared done until I put the light ABV in the '18-M. Sure enough, there was was my medication draw. When you need the heavier molecules, they're in the darker ABV. I need these for my herb to medicate me properly. Not medicating properly means pain within the week.

The way I look at it is that the flower becomes 'rigid/sealed' and actually locks vape within the 'skin' of the flower. This may be the most stupid thought possible but no one has explained why I can get an entire additional draw when I move the remaining dark golden flower to another vape. I do not tolerate smoke, so this is indeed vape. The popcorn roast level of dark ABV.

I still don't like the '20 tip as it does not conduct heat as well with the reduced common surface area between the tip and the cap. The heavier fins also stole a lot of heat from conduction. I suspect the performance of the new designs are going to be similar to the '20 tips.

 

[Demonic chronic]

After a day of heavy thermal extracting with the 21omni I can honestly say this thing rips, I get full dark extraction using a caldron IH respecting the click (not used a torch) maybe takes a few more hits to get there tho, oh and I’m using a standard cap didn’t bother using the captive one.

 

[Wolfsie]

My first experience with the '20-M was the same - light ABV. The vape appeared done until I put the light ABV in the '18-M. Sure enough, there was was my medication draw. When you need the heavier molecules, they're in the darker ABV. I need these for my herb to medicate me properly. Not medicating properly means pain within the week.

The way I look at it is that the flower becomes 'rigid/sealed' and actually locks vape within the 'skin' of the flower. This may be the most stupid thought possible but no one has explained why I can get an entire additional draw when I move the remaining dark golden flower to another vape. I do not tolerate smoke, so this is indeed vape. The popcorn roast level of dark ABV.

I still don't like the '20 tip as it does not conduct heat as well with the reduced common surface area between the tip and the cap. The heavier fins also stole a lot of heat from conduction. I suspect the performance of the new designs are going to be similar to the '20 tips.

Have you tried pushing the 20M tips a little harder when heating than you would previous years? My first Vapcap was a 20M, I respected the click only my first session using it. From the start I had to push the heat up anywhere from 3s-5s after the click to reach my desired level of extraction. My favorite tip so far is the 19M and I find that it requires less heat up time for the same full extraction compared to the 20M. Still love the 20M tips though, I can get good dark and even ABV by ignoring the click a bit. Could be because I'm using an IH only as well. My only time using a torch I found that I couldn't push it past the click much.

 

[TommyDee]

I hear you @Wolfsie - more heat would just scorch the outside of the load along the walls of the tip. The center would still be a dark golden brown. More heat or further clicks just came with dry heaves or combustion. Sometimes I could get a little more out of the bowl if I left it to cool first.

I have a feeling that what I was experiencing is a natural phenomenon that plants have against fire and harsh elements. I don't like having to think about when a bowl is done. I use my '18 hybrid M because it is so reliable every time. Screw the click - just bake my pie already ;]

 

[notams]

It is fun knowing that combustion is actually difficult with the new tips. Seriously, I've been doing some sloppy heatings and just cannot make a mistake. I've fully expected to see an ashtray when I pulled the cap off and... tan herb staring at me.

The only recent combustion event was with the new M tip. That sucker can hold the heat, dang. I swear I didn't miss a click. But, I was back to back to back with magnet pulls. You know when you dump and refill during the cool down click and are waiting for it with a fresh green bowl while still blowing a cloud from the last bowl. mmmmm and then from nowhere - bam! Smoke. Shit. I didn't deserve that one.

 

[endof3d]

@TommyDee Modified my 18M tip as well. I'm sure you did a more thorough job than me. Any tips or photos of your modification that you would like to share? The wife and me both have one.

 

[TommyDee]

Put a spacer in the bottom of the cap... a stainless steel "S" shaped piece will space the edge of the tip from the 'sealing' dome of the clicker.



That and the inverted CCD.

But this is my favored mod for any DV tip...


...very scent-neutral stems! These are from Flowering Quince Shrubs.
No carbs and self sealing. No metal 'taste'.

Glass is the only thing cleaner I can think of.
Glass and wood act similar for condensation.
There are many species that do not make good one-piece wooden stems though.
Know your toxicity factors. I settled on this one species and location, my yard

The magic of some '18-M's is the original cap some had. They provide a real separation between clicks. They are also 'hot' in an IH. They can ghost a cap in 2 draws if you want. Normally 3 and some stoking to get that ABV to a perfect dark roast coffee brown.

Some caps are hotter than others. I have a 2019 serialized cap that is even hotter than my '18. These caps are going to be gnomes. Most '19 caps are a bit tamer but nothing like the '20 caps I have experience with. I change my technique for those lightweight caps. I don't know how '21 caps stack up in the IH. This is what I am jabbering about - here on Reddit

 

[RustyOldNail]

Put a spacer in the bottom of the cap... a stainless steel "S" shaped piece will space the edge of the tip from the 'sealing' dome of the clicker.

View attachment 7055

That and the inverted CCD.

But this is my favored mod for any DV tip...

View attachment 7056
...very scent-neutral stems! These are from Flowering Quince Shrubs.
No carbs and self sealing. No metal 'taste'.

Glass is the only thing cleaner I can think of.
Glass and wood act similar for condensation.
There are many species that do not make good one-piece wooden stems though.
Know your toxicity factors. I settled on this one species and location, my yard

I would buy that top stem immediately. That’s a beautiful shape. Does it fit in a 10mm or 14mm? Excellent work TommyDee!

 

[TommyDee]

... that's my first reach every day @RustyOldNail

Waterworks are not compatible unless you don't like your glass... The wood taper will swell into a fitting and lock in with little effort. Almost lost a MF Orbiter that way. If you do wood in a glass fitting, I'd recommend soft and shallow o-ring grooves. 14mm would allow for fat o-rings and 10mm would be small o-ring. It should work.

 

[endof3d]

@TommyDee thanks for the photos and explanation. Interesting read on Reddit.

 

[Vaporware]

My first experience with the '20-M was the same - light ABV. The vape appeared done until I put the light ABV in the '18-M. Sure enough, there was was my medication draw. When you need the heavier molecules, they're in the darker ABV. I need these for my herb to medicate me properly. Not medicating properly means pain within the week.

The way I look at it is that the flower becomes 'rigid/sealed' and actually locks vape within the 'skin' of the flower. This may be the most stupid thought possible but no one has explained why I can get an entire additional draw when I move the remaining dark golden flower to another vape. I do not tolerate smoke, so this is indeed vape. The popcorn roast level of dark ABV.

I still don't like the '20 tip as it does not conduct heat as well with the reduced common surface area between the tip and the cap. The heavier fins also stole a lot of heat from conduction. I suspect the performance of the new designs are going to be similar to the '20 tips.

I don’t know the science, but what I think is happening there is you extracted everything you could at the temp you were hitting with the mix of heating types you were getting, but if you push more conduction heat you can still get something else out of it by heating the internal surfaces that weren’t getting the full heat of the convection airflow to a higher temp.

That may include things that theoretically should vaporize at lower temps, but I think most of it would be the compounds that require higher temps.

Has anyone done studies on the makeup of vapor from conduction vs convection at different temps yet? I guess it’s not something enough people funding research care about, but it would be useful information for us medical cannabis users.

 

[TommyDee]

Without a doubt @Vaporware. I can see some experiments with mass spectrometry that would make this quantitative.

Obviously 100's of thousands of '20 tips and caps cannot be wrong. I suspect this tamer profile was intentional. I like my older collection better. Long live '21's.

 

[Smokey McVape]

I find that in my Rover 2 I can push the new Vong/Omni tips to about 3-4s after the click. Definitely noticing a much more full extraction that way.

I find the same thing with all of my IH's.
I think the caps get to temperature BEFORE the bowl with IH's (the metal used for the caps is much thinner than the bowl) as I NEVER have this issue with a torch. This would account for the drastic difference in vapour production between the 2 techniques and after all the Vapcap was designed to be used with a torch.

 

[stark1]

Now theres a brilliant idea! A (slightly) thicker VapCap designed for an iH? With nubs inside, for a ( slightly ) freer air intake.

On the other hand, an iH/VC storage unit combo, for a portable menage á deux would be an awesome EDC.

Just blowing some air
.

 

[TotherVaper]

Now theres a brilliant idea! A (slightly) thicker VapCap designed for an iH? With nubs inside, for a ( slightly ) freer air intake.

On the other hand, an iH/VC storage unit combo, for a portable menage á deux would be an awesome EDC.

Just blowing some air
.

By IH and storage do you mean like this?

Sideclick Portable Induction Heater

The Sideclick is a small, portable and well-built induction heater for use with Dynavap vaporizers that features a storage locker for your Dynavap M and a user-moddable induction cylinder so you can always get the perfect hit. Featuring USB-C Charging, a discreet black metal body, and green/red...

vapefiend.co.uk

 

[Greenleaf88]

I was reading the thread and someone had mentioned how we hit the omni 21. I put my standard cap on, closed the airport almost closed just a tiny bit of fresh air, pull hard big clouds, harder you pull cooler the vape. Long draws can't really do mtl like my vortex.

 

[Smokey McVape]

By IH and storage do you mean like this?

I can whole heartedly say that the SideClick is the best budget IH I have ever used. Comes with 2 glass cylinders for the heater, set at different heights and user modable along with a storage compartment for any M sized Vapcap.
Consider it a metal bodied Orion clone but cheaper and better.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

My order from 03/31 has shipped.

“Shipped” meaning something other than ‘on its way’: “package acceptance pending”...for four full days.
USPS still struggling out if its DeJoy phase?

 

[endof3d]

Put Vong tip with captive cap (cc) on a shell shock body with airport closed using a PSM IH with half bowl of fine ground. Was welcomely surprised. The cc provided plenty of air flow, the Vong tip close to perfect extraction and the best clouds ever received from a DV. The wife tried it and immediately told me to order her a tectonic and ti tip.

 

[condition]

I am still new in DYNAVAP, and I don't know how to load half bowl. Do you mean load the half tip? I tried to move the screen of the tip half way up (to load it half) and it falls.

 

[endof3d]

The circular grooves in the DV tip that seat the CCD's (screen) at different heights where only available on the Ti tips until 2020. If you have a Ti tip or a 2020 M or newer there are grooves/ridges to achieve this. CCD's are best set from the bottom up method. Patience.

 

[purepotstill]

I am still new in DYNAVAP, and I don't know how to load half bowl. Do you mean load the half tip? I tried to move the screen of the tip half way up (to load it half) and it falls.

Which model have you got ? Half bowls are possible with Ti Tips, 2020M Tip, and on the new 2021. But it can be tricky to set (that's why I have two Ti tips, one set half, the other full).