Dynavap VapCap

[Dutch-Mic]

I posted a while back and got no feedback.


Have there been many different generations of condensers?
Does one made today perform better than one from years ago?

I know there have been vast improvements to the tips, but nobody ever talks about the condenser component.

I don't know if there are different generations, but I do see differences with my older SS condenser tubes compared to the newer ones: the end of the older condenser tubes that goes into the tip aren't as nicely finished as the newer ones. It's a bit difficult for me to describe what I mean, but going to try it:

The metal at the end of the tube looks a bit folded to the inside of the tube, so the shape is not perfectly round. It's also a bit sharp, which causes that tiny pipe cleaner/Q-tip particles stay stuck in the condenser tube after cleaning. That definitely can influence the taste.

So the difference to me is that I find that the newer tubes are easier to clean; no Q-tip or pipe cleaner parts can get stuck.

 

[Vape_Or_Die420]

Keep in mind i am a newbie to Dynavap but a 13 year vaper.

Ok, so i am about to loose my mind with these vapcap's!!! First dynavap replaced my 20M captive cap because it kept combusting on me (i think because the tip got dented from my IH). So i am now using a flat piece of silicon recommended by @Pipes to protect my caps from dents in my Caldron. That has worked perfectly.

The new cap Dynavap sent me worked fine for about a month. Now this one is combusting on me. No dent, the cap rattles when you shake it. I never go past the click. It is completely clean. I soaked it overnight in soapy water and cleaned with cotton swabs (as recommended by Dynavap). Even used some iso on a cotton swab to confirm it was clean. Still combusts!!

I am almost at my wits end with this device. What drew me to this vape was that it should last forever and give consistent results. I have to be doing something wrong because everyone else in the world seems to love this thing.

Please help!

 

[TommyDee]

I hate the '20-M and love the modified '18-M. Currently driving the '19-M daily. Okay, I use my own stems but seriously, being an experienced vapor, I can see how the '20 isn't doing it. From someone who needs fast extraction and reliable extraction, this is not a game. The '20 really does suck. Not that I have to get into the reasons why I say that. If you want to learn to like the vapcap, get a '19-M and then decide.

 

[Toivarita]

I hate the '20-M and love the modified '18-M. Currently driving the '19-M daily. Okay, I use my own stems but seriously, being an experienced vapor, I can see how the '20 isn't doing it. From someone who needs fast extraction and reliable extraction, this is not a game. The '20 really does suck. Not that I have to get into the reasons why I say that. If you want to learn to like the vapcap, get a '19-M and then decide.

I ordered the 2020 M and 2019 M in their Independence Day package and I cannot tell the difference in their performance, besides that I can get more exact airflow from the airport in the 2020 M. How is the 2020 inferior?

 

[TommyDee]

Is your cap thinner on the '20 than your classic caps? That's only the beginning. The captive cap is 12% thinner than the earlier versions. I don't know if that is across the board or just a bad run but that is heat mass loss.

 

[Toivarita]

Is your cap thinner one the '20 than your classic caps? That's only the beginning. The captive cap is 12% thinner than the earlier versions. I don't know if that is across the board or just a bad run but that is heat mass loss.

Is this message directed towards me?
The heat up time seems to be similar and the snap or *pop* seems to come at a similar temperature. I’ve been using a single flame torch for both caps. My girlfriend has the ‘19 “Celebrate Freedome” and I have the ‘20. She likes the ‘19 and I use it just as much as her but I don’t see much of a difference. I would agree that the 2020 vapor isn’t any better than the 2019. But the 2020 has a cooler CNC’d design, the 10mm mouthpiece, adjusts-bowl, and the more airport notches, better airflow in the tip. I just want to hear why you think the 2019 is better because you said that you don’t want to get into it, or something. I don’t see a big difference when I switch caps too.

 

[Jill NYC]

@Vape_Or_Die420 The rattling is normal.
Try removing the cap before the click.
You can test out how long it takes to click while empty, let it cool down, fill it up and count about a second or two before you would expect to hear the click.
I know that isn’t a perfect solution, but once you know how long it takes, it starts becoming second nature how long you need to hold it on heat.

 

[3dfx-glide]

@stark1 – Wow, you wrote that without any accent!

I have translated the specs, the rest of the text is only describing the general advantages of using an IH without adding much info for us IH veterans.

My current IH setup:

[Slim Automatic by Mag Heater]

I wonder where the maker gets his Motorola DynaTAC cases from

Oddly it does look like a VapCap IH heater already the antenna is where the VapCap goes, and you just "dial in" your desired temp, hit the red button, and you are launched into orbit like a cell sattelitte from the 80s

 

[Toivarita]

Keep in mind i am a newbie to Dynavap but a 13 year vaper.

Ok, so i am about to loose my mind with these vapcap's!!! First dynavap replaced my 20M captive cap because it kept combusting on me (i think because the tip got dented from my IH). So i am now using a flat piece of silicon recommended by @Pipes to protect my caps from dents in my Caldron. That has worked perfectly.

The new cap Dynavap sent me worked fine for about a month. Now this one is combusting on me. No dent, the cap rattles when you shake it. I never go past the click. It is completely clean. I soaked it overnight in soapy water and cleaned with cotton swabs (as recommended by Dynavap). Even used some iso on a cotton swab to confirm it was clean. Still combusts!!

I am almost at my wits end with this device. What drew me to this vape was that it should last forever and give consistent results. I have to be doing something wrong because everyone else in the world seems to love this thing.

Please help!

Sorry to hear about your difficulty With your dynavap. I just ordered a couldron from pipes yesterday and it’s in the mail! Could you recommend me some Silicon caps for this if I’ll need it? I would return your device if it combusts on the *pop* then I would return or swap out the cap or the entire device with dynavap.

 

[3dfx-glide]

Keep in mind i am a newbie to Dynavap but a 13 year vaper.

Ok, so i am about to loose my mind with these vapcap's!!! First dynavap replaced my 20M captive cap because it kept combusting on me (i think because the tip got dented from my IH). So i am now using a flat piece of silicon recommended by @Pipes to protect my caps from dents in my Caldron. That has worked perfectly.

The new cap Dynavap sent me worked fine for about a month. Now this one is combusting on me. No dent, the cap rattles when you shake it. I never go past the click. It is completely clean. I soaked it overnight in soapy water and cleaned with cotton swabs (as recommended by Dynavap). Even used some iso on a cotton swab to confirm it was clean. Still combusts!!

I am almost at my wits end with this device. What drew me to this vape was that it should last forever and give consistent results. I have to be doing something wrong because everyone else in the world seems to love this thing.

Please help!

Are you using an IH only? For troubleshooting have you tried using a torch flame and seeing if it still combusts at the click? If it still combusts then maybe somehow the IH you are using is ruining caps? As a workaround for now, maybe just remove the cap earlier from the IH so it doesn't combust, while you figure out the culprit here

 

[stark1]

I wonder where the maker gets his Motorola DynaTAC cases from

Oddly it does look like a VapCap IH heater already the antenna is where the VapCap goes, and you just "dial in" your desired temp, hit the red button, and you are launched into orbit like a cell sattelitte from the 80s

Are you saying that the case for the “slim” are made from old Motorola cases.

Seems to me the magheater casing may be 3D prints.

—Or that the Motorola looks like it could be a VCIH?

That is, I am a bit puzzled, like TD’s stream of consciousness posts. Sometimes.

 

[TommyDee]

Is this message directed towards me?
The heat up time seems to be similar and the snap or *pop* seems to come at a similar temperature. I’ve been using a single flame torch for both caps. My girlfriend has the ‘19 “Celebrate Freedome” and I have the ‘20. She likes the ‘19 and I use it just as much as her but I don’t see much of a difference. I would agree that the 2020 vapor isn’t any better than the 2019. But the 2020 has a cooler CNC’d design, the 10mm mouthpiece, adjusts-bowl, and the more airport notches, better airflow in the tip. I just want to hear why you think the 2019 is better because you said that you don’t want to get into it, or something. I don’t see a big difference when I switch caps too.

Sorry yes, following a previous post I rarely put @-anyone on there. And yes, I have a longstanding question to know if the early run of '20-M's had thinner caps that was later corrected or if they are still 12% thinner than previous caps to make the captive dimple. Regardless, it is less mass in the cap itself. The previous post reported denting a cap... related?

I pack a tight bowl with super fine grind. I extract the bulk of that in about 2 draws making the first the money hit. This takes some care in heating and I do that with a very well tuned induction heater. The '18 and '19 extract nearly identically. Same technique with '20-M will get you light ABV and scorching along the tip-walls, 50% longer to the click, and whimpy draws. Can't do it all in two with sip&dip and any other method.

The '19-M was the first improvement in draw resistance. I took that to another level with both '18 and '19 tips. '20-M indeed have excellent minimal draw resistance. Love the '20-M stem, although I don't do metal stems as a rule. Basically, the '20 didn't stand up to the standard and certainly didn't blow it away. My standard, I admit; fine grind and persistent reheating for max extraction rate, yet, the profound difference is my observation in how I react to the '20-M. It has similar tones to how others reacted at the time. Therefore my question will stand on the cap until it is known. Not many people are able to provide an accurate measurement. Mine too has a margin of error at 12% but it is definitely thinner.

And I have some empirical evidence as well that there is a 'big change' in how it presents in an IH; it "magnetically couples significantly less" than the '19 and '18-Ms. The impression I was left with after the initial attempts was "dry heaves" talking of the straw colored ABV and the hot 'nothing' hits it presented. Reminded me of Kansas in late August during a drought. My '19 t&c are like the Pacific Northwest luscious coastal forests. Dark full extraction while dancing with the devil herself.

 

[Siebter]

Seems to me the magheater casing may be 3D prints.

You are correct, all Mag Heater casings are hand printed in Germany.

 

[TommyDee]

I wonder where the maker gets his Motorola DynaTAC cases from

Oddly it does look like a VapCap IH heater already the antenna is where the VapCap goes, and you just "dial in" your desired temp, hit the red button, and you are launched into orbit like a cell sattelitte from the 80s

I could so make that work LOL

 

[Vape_Or_Die420]

@Vape_Or_Die420 The rattling is normal.
Try removing the cap before the click.
You can test out how long it takes to click while empty, let it cool down, fill it up and count about a second or two before you would expect to hear the click.
I know that isn’t a perfect solution, but once you know how long it takes, it starts becoming second nature how long you need to hold it on heat.

Are you using an IH only? For troubleshooting have you tried using a torch flame and seeing if it still combusts at the click? If it still combusts then maybe somehow the IH you are using is ruining caps? As a workaround for now, maybe just remove the cap earlier from the IH so it doesn't combust, while you figure out the culprit here

Thanks for the suggestion. Is this a common issue?

Anyone else out there need to stop before the click to prevent combustion?

 

[TommyDee]

There is an adjustment you can make to some IH's. Cauldron and PSM have movable coils; Alpine 2020 is sanctioned for moving the coil; Fluxer is sanctioned for moving the coil.

The idea is that your VC is too deep in the cup @Vape_Or_Die420 . Moving the coil closer to the switch will cause the clicker to click earlier. This is what I meant as part of a tuned IH. Millimeters of movement make a lot of difference.

 

[Vape_Or_Die420]

There is an adjustment you can make to some IH's. Cauldron and PSM have movable coils; Alpine 2020 is sanctioned for moving the coil; Fluxer is sanctioned for moving the coil.

The idea is that your VC is too deep in the cup @Vape_Or_Die420 . Moving the coil closer to the switch will cause the clicker to click earlier. This is what I meant as part of a tuned IH. Millimeters of movement make a lot of difference.

Thanks! Problem is the cap for sure, not the IH, as i have multiple caps to compare it to.

 

[Bad Dog]

Anyone else out there need to stop before the click to prevent combustion?

I'm not even close with my apollo, 5 seconds passed the click is combustion territory. My cap is 2 years old, 1 year high temperature torching and 1 year IH and it works flawlessly.

Perhaps your caldron is tuned to high? I remember reading people getting some sort of cable vvps? To tame their IH. Hopefully someone who knows what I'm talking about will know the name and where to get it

 

[RustyOldNail]

Sorry yes, following a previous post I rarely put @-anyone on there.

CLICK “Reply”, and you won’t have to and it adds context. ....

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

Just ordered a Littlefinger (koochy koo ) from SneakyPete for a 19M tip. Looks like thick glass and no airhole to have to fucking find. Gonna use it to explore with some small glass like a 14mm J hook or a tiny bubbler. I have a little Rick & Morty 5 in bubbler I want to try it with.

LittleFinger Universal DynaVap Adapter

The universal 10, 14, & 18mm male joint of the LittleFinger Adapter makes it the easiest and cleanest way to use any DynaVap tip with a water piece.

www.sneakypetestore.com

 

[Jill NYC]

Is this a common issue?

It’s not unheard of although also not common.
Every cap has its own personality.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Just ordered a Littlefinger (koochy koo ) from SneakyPete for a 19M tip. Looks like thick glass and no airhole to have to fucking find. Gonna use it to explore with some small glass like a 14mm J hook or a tiny bubbler. I have a little Rick & Morty 5 in bubbler I want to try it with.

LittleFinger Universal DynaVap Adapter

The universal 10, 14, & 18mm male joint of the LittleFinger Adapter makes it the easiest and cleanest way to use any DynaVap tip with a water piece.

www.sneakypetestore.com

I just bought this NO CARB stem $17 from our own @DDave

The ALL NEW Original VapCap Water Wand V2

Now redesigned to offer the same reinforced insertion point for the VapCap Tip as seen in the Custom Short Waterwand! Why? Ever wish your VapCap were a desktop vape? Need a VapCap vong? Wish you could repeatedly use your VapCap with waterpipe and friends, but your VapCap gets too hot? Looking...

www.ddavemods.com

In case you toast your fingers on that shorty. It also comes with:
6 x O-Rings (4 red & 2 brown)

I needed the BROWN orings for it to fit my SS tip.

 

[TommyDee]

Thanks! Problem is the cap for sure, not the IH, as i have multiple caps to compare it to.

You have a valid claim. They should replace your cap. You're no novice.

 

[stark1]

There is an adjustment you can make to some IH's. Cauldron and PSM have movable coils; Alpine 2020 is sanctioned for moving the coil; Fluxer is sanctioned for moving the coil.

The idea is that your VC is too deep in the cup @Vape_Or_Die420 . Moving the coil closer to the switch will cause the clicker to click earlier. This is what I meant as part of a tuned IH. Millimeters of movement make a lot of difference.

Does “sanctioned” mean “verboten”—or, that the coils are fixed. A novel use of the word. (Kept thinking
That somehow the gestapo may come should the coil be moved).

Alternatively, the cap depth could be used to control the time/heat ratio. A bit puzzled.

 

[TommyDee]

It means the maker will allow you to fuck with them @stark1