shopdognyc

Well-Known Member
I am starting out with the M 2020 version with the captive cap. Anyone swap this out with the regular one? I imagine after using a bit, being able to simply slide off is better to empty while everything is still warm.

Anyone just crimp or press out the indentation to enable the cap from sliding off easier when on a magnet?
 
shopdognyc,

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
Anyone use PBW to clean their dynavap parts? I remember reading about it on this thread a few years back, but the search function doesn’t like me. Looking for guidance on how much PBW to how much water, and how long a soak.
thanks, dynaverse!
 
StringTheorista,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Anyone use PBW to clean their dynavap parts? I remember reading about it on this thread a few years back, but the search function doesn’t like me. Looking for guidance on how much PBW to how much water, and how long a soak.
thanks, dynaverse!

Maybe some info in the PBW thread:

 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
AIR there’s not much if any difference between PBW and Oxyclean. Had Oxy discolor some items (steel, aluminum), so now I take no chances: I just soak in warm ISO/EtOH, rinse them good, and run them (disassembled) thru the dishwasher as part of a regular load. Works great, no issues at all. And when you can’t see the alcohol getting any darker, evaporate it all off for decent-quality goo
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
AIR there’s not much if any difference between PBW and Oxyclean. Had Oxy discolor some items (steel, aluminum), so now I take no chances: I just soak in warm ISO/EtOH, rinse them good, and run them (disassembled) thru the dishwasher as part of a regular load. Works great, no issues at all. And when you can’t see the alcohol getting any darker, evaporate it all off for decent-quality goo

I can’t speak for the difference between the two, as I am comfortable using PBW as it’s used in brewing (and the MDS is available), oxy seems more like a cleaner product. But this discussion should continue in the PBW thread anyways, link a few posts above.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Those Assassins stems show just how easy it is to make a nice looking SS and Ti piece. The game master look of the thing doesn't impress me in the least but the product has a strong presentation, and by the looks of it, clean. this should be a shot across the bow of DV. One review and you -all- have one coming. Cabin fever - meet VAS!

--------------------------------

Different subject. But of course DV performance related. I found the third game changer. [Yea, sure he did, LOL]
Of course it is highly dependent on process but if you know me it is processes added on earlier 'religion'. Meaning some have found me a fucking quack that types a lot in his boredom and others find some wisdom in my findings. I can only say these mods and tips for my daily medication are also practiced religiously for the sake that it is very much an improved experience for me.

First we had the '18 tip constriction; solved with a wire. Many of you solved it with filing crenelations along the edge. Still using the wire and now comparing the '19 without. It is holding its own. But since I got in this game it certainly became obvious that a little better airflow was needed. Crazy idea, I know.

Then we had the inverted CCD. Wonderful discussions and some alternatives of which I highly approve [like - so what] but I don't have any and therefore I can't comment except to speculate. I can understand why screens can function similarly as an inverted CCD. So far, the practice that allows removal of the CCD with absolute ease and likewise reinstalling it is mind blowing. Cleaning a combustion event [flame out] in under 5 minutes is just a small part this little mod plays. And I haven't blown out a CCD or lost one removing it. My '18 tip still has the original CCD in the original condition. I use this little trinket of DV air-path knowledge in every DV except the half-bowl-Ti. '20 doesn't count - Ti CCD is sitting flat and not being used. But if your '20 CCD is concave in the bottom of the tip, flip it already and then tell me how fucking crazy I am. [I don't care, really].

Now, as they say, good things come in threes. Okay, maybe this still has to prove out but I have to say I kinda wondered about this and may have stumbled onto a ratio matter. I often talk of how fine I grind my herb. I often talk about how all my herb goes through a kitchen strainer. I often talk about how my herb is always one strain [yes, it sucks but works as med]. So these are the building blocks of this succession. This is also where you can stop reading because I believe these three factors of the herb prep, and the 'corrections' to the VC are relevant. I believe you should be able to evacuate the vapor from the chamber rather than letting it linger in the chamber because you can't or are not getting air through the load, enough of it to be satisfying, I mean. You'd think that a fine grind would just muck up the works more. Of course it does! All the more reason for the improvements, D'uh! Okay, dead horse by now.

What I just pondered on is the "endless bowl". Shit the lot of you probably already know about this but somehow forgot to share with the rest of us struggling to know what we're looking at when we greet our nug for the day. Buying one strain of herb is a daunting task. You get none of the pleasures. Okay, many pleasures, but the exploration is moot if not counter-productive to the med side. I spent 9 month bottoming out on Blue Dream as the right strain to combat debilitating cramps. Has kept me mobile and at reduced risk for over 3 years. Mess with the balance and pay the price. It is very fortunate the Blue Dream strain is so prevalent. I have maybe 4 farms I trust to deliver 'clean' b-shelf flower if not higher.

Always using one strain has the price of loosing the sense of smell of the particular strain in question. I taste a few terps and I know when the ABV is dark. Between, nothing. Any anomaly, or outright misplaced nug at the dispensary, is immediately highlighted with flavor. I can tell you for sure that Blue Dream is a well established strain. I run into very little variant from recognized farms.

So what the fuck did you find Tom!... LOL Most Blue Dream is light and fluffy. In the bag it is easily double most. 1 oz will fill 16oz mason jars on more than one occasion. But I've run into some dank version that is every bit genuine Blue Dream that filled only half the jar. Got a knock-out punch and although a little harder to grind through the screen, it does go through and the grind looks identical between the two versions of the same strain. I'm usually about the volume of green matter rather than dankness but in this case, I was ready familiar with this particular batch. This farm has produced both the fluffy stuff and the dank stuff. Both excellent rides on the first go. Oh, did I mention headiness disappears pretty quick for me too? LOL. My medication dose is 1/2 gram and my C'19 survival technique allows up to a gram a day. This is my old bong rate of over a year ago. I've caught up literally by making the VC my own a couple times over. Cumulative upgrades and processes refined to this degree can have surprising outcomes.

Okay, here it is. When vaping the light fluffy stuff, you get to a 'dry state'. You know there is more vape but something won't let it out. You know it's not done because the ABV is light brown and the draw was very hot and dry. You let the cap and the load cool and the final browning of the herb takes place on the next attempt. What the fuck is holding vape in? This varies a lot from crop to crop. It was particularly like this with this one crop I current trust as good medicine and it is easily available. Top price but it was hard to get to Dark ABV with consistency. The way I see this phenomenon is that heat opens up the flower and the vape escapes as we struggle to get the air through the expanding load. All the more reason to have the best breathing air path available. But then this particular flower just tightens all its sinews and re-trapped the vape. Today I had a little of the dank herb in the container and just dumped it in the other container that had about bowl-full... a little more. A ratio of as much as 5:1 fluffy-dank. And hits were just pouring out of the cap. It's still not dark and crap, my head was spinning. So what the fuck! Who forgot to spill the beans? This is like mixing two okay things and making it wholly new game changer. I know this is probably a lucky combination but it seems a little horticultural hallucinations might just make the perfect cannabis botanist to get the most from the "fruit" they have to make a salad with.

Okay, that was it... nothing Earth shattering but even that, people seem to give only two shits about. So from my isolation ward to yours, if you stuck with it this long, congrats, really, you are hard core bored to tears or you need a better experience from your vapecap. I have a bonus one for you...
You know when you just about combusted and you can taste that 'electric' taste [that's my 'end bowl dark ABV signal]; pull the cap and make a small draw and watch the tip - is it smoking? If not, draw with pleasure the vape in the load - it's probably pretty dense and pretty potent. What I've come to realize is that the few bits that fall in the cap char enough to signal a warning. Pulling the cap has avoided combusting more than a few times with amazing vapor sequestered in the load.

That's it folks. That all I got for the VC tricks and techniques. Sometimes I just want to put the letter together in one place as a reminder to my future self. Since I live it daily, that isn't necessary yet. But I am looking forward to exploring this new mix further. I can get both of these strains now so I need to get shopping.

All that in under 10,000 words. Getting better at it.

...and I love @phattpiggie 's helix stem. Those are masterpieces.
 
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LabPong

Well-Known Member
I am starting out with the M 2020 version with the captive cap. Anyone swap this out with the regular one? I imagine after using a bit, being able to simply slide off is better to empty while everything is still warm.

Anyone just crimp or press out the indentation to enable the cap from sliding off easier when on a magnet?

Which is why that cap is.......how do I be nice here......ahhhhhh not really needed? lol
 

thunderstealer1337

Well-Known Member
i dunno why dynavap decided to indent the sides of the cap and obstruct like 20% of the airflow path

i would have just notched/indent the digger portion of the cap and be done, captures the cap captively on the fins and does not protrude into the airway path at all

lol after 4 years of development they did that
 
thunderstealer1337,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Well now, shopping done - glad that's over with. I can ride the C'19 wave without having to deal with snippy pot shop managers for quite some time. Looking forward to honing the mixing of the the dank with the fluff. And they're fresh crops none the less. Love consistency in my flower.

@shopdognyc - I got a '20-M to know what I was talking about when discussing Induction Heaters [IH's]. I got an '18 a year ago and made it my own as my short note in an above post details. I also got the '19-M to see if it was effectively "better" than all the crap I needed to do with '18. And we'll ignore the body/stem for now as I do like the '20 stem for style compared to others, it is not the functional bit. I don't like metal stems in general.

If you look at the '20 tip, one has to ponder why DV would choose to add the dimple in the cap that would catch on every gyration along the outer body of the tip. The cap would stick, stick, sti-stick...s t ick... all the way off the tip. I squeezed it back to the other oval and the catches were effectively eliminated; the dimples no longer tough the tip. Might work great on a '19 or '18. However, the cap is also thinner. It doesn't hold as much heat. At least my '20 cap is a thinner material than the '18 or '19 cap. I confirmed this with the coupling effect in the IH as well as a direct measurement with calipers. The '18 and '19 vapcap drew a lot more power than the '20 setup in the IH. I couldn't get the vape I wanted on the draw and I couldn't get the dark ABV I was used to. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I ain't doing it again regardless. I'm probably doing my '18 wrong too. So what?

@shopdognyc - if you hit hard like me, loose the '20. Learn on an '19 tip and cap and see if you want to go back to '20. Not doing so may just have you loosing out on what I think is a great medication stick. I find my '18 with mods to be slightly superior to the '19 setup. The '19 is holding its own for nearly the last week. It will remain in rotation.

People will buy the '20 from you. There are satisfied users. George designs these for maximum experience. I must say, it can hold a lot of user types captive. I'm not one of those. I still want the bong experience without the combustion. I get damn close with a VC and an induction heater.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I have no doubt an Omni would be an improvement. I got the SS tips whistling... no problem breathing anymore. Even the '19 with the reversed SS CCD is kicking good clouds. I am perfectly content with either of these. It is the '20 in particular that things went the wrong way for my tastes and the right way for the other half. In my book, we're through with incremental upgrades and now we choose out poison.

Here's my list;
'18 tip has highest IH coupling of the bunch since; the '18 cap was the last honest separation in clicks.
'19 tip close to '18 tip in IH coupling; It clicks once or twice at the same time. Either way, hear it|hit it.
Both require the Reversed CCD or a screen in my book. The '18 requires spacing to keep the clicker from capping the cap.
The '19 crenelations work.

I've said my peace about the '20. Not for me.

And although sportin' an Omni might be cool to look like I'd know what I'm talking about, I still don't like metal stems. The Poor Man's Omni I Lego'd together is a perfect sample of what an Omni can do. And in that light, I definitely have my eye on something of my own. This also keeps the tip's bore very clean.

I invite anyone with an XL condenser and Ti tip to try this. The Ti tip is important as the bore is different where the condenser is;

20200529_224614.jpg20200528_202035.jpg
 

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I haven't tried the captive cap yet, but when it comes to the standard cap, I'm not sure they changed much over the last few years, at least not in performance; I have five or six caps in usage, some from ca. 2018 and some more recent ones (with serial number), and while each one of them behaves a little different clickwise (more like in „having their own character“), I don't see a certain feature or quality being typical for the year of its manufacturing. But some of you guys probably have 20 or 30 caps to compare and can correct me. At least for caps being made in the last 2-3 years I don't see major changes in their characteristics.
 

RogueGuy

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hey Dynaverse, havent done much with the Vapcap lately, been really focused on the tools. I turned a couple of bodies today and it got me fired up about Dyna.

IMG-2541.jpg
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
guys I had M18 and need new M now, M2019 or M2020 ?
except for the 10mm perfect compatible of M2020
is it worth the extra money for it?

gonna pull the trigger on some M , locally, today.

Ok i got it - Captive Cap. Is it good? bad? worth it? thanks
 
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thunderstealer1337

Well-Known Member
Some ppl like the captive version some don't. I feel it does interfere with the drawing but I still use them in my rotation of 5 caps.

It's not like I had to replace my 2x 2020m with a non captive cap
 
thunderstealer1337,

LabPong

Well-Known Member
i dunno why dynavap decided to indent the sides of the cap and obstruct like 20% of the airflow path

i would have just notched/indent the digger portion of the cap and be done, captures the cap captively on the fins and does not protrude into the airway path at all

lol after 4 years of development they did that

Here is the basic science/mechanical end of it.

Normal cap you need to pinch into a oval/egg shape to grip the tip. This limits the air intake quite a bit and also only allows that intake to come in from a limited area around the circumference of the tip end.

Captive cap allows for much more air to enter around most of the circumference of the tip end allowing for better extraction in a couple manors.

🦴
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Yep, I agree with @Hippie. I've got all my M's blocked that way.
Well, actually I added an additional o-ring because I have a bunch of extras. Same idea.
So I did but a dynafriend adviced me to keep the airport opened because this way I can make the cap cools faster (first hit highest temp , airport opened, then half opened in the next 2 hits of the bowl)
But I guess if i want the full experience - high temps - it's better to leave the airport closed?
thanks
 
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