Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
Dude's the MVP IS NOT A waste. You will use it a lot to check ohms when you rebuild. I still keep my evic around for that reason. An ohm checker here is US is like $25 shipped, and MVP2 is $40 shipped and you use it as a passthrough.
I do recommend getting a 510-ego adapter ($2?) so you dont strip the thread on either device you choose to get to check your resistance. The constant abuse from rebuilding will wear out the threading.
You can always get a true stainless steel mech mod to avoid the issue
Provaris have also been know to strip the threading of atomizers so thats a really touch device.
I hate to say it but you kinda jumped into the deep end of the hobby and you should consider making an ecig station if/when you get your first RDA. Also, the 2C chip is probably limiting your voltage to 3.7 with some sort of amp limit.
I do recommend getting a 510-ego adapter ($2?) so you dont strip the thread on either device you choose to get to check your resistance. The constant abuse from rebuilding will wear out the threading.
You can always get a true stainless steel mech mod to avoid the issue
Provaris have also been know to strip the threading of atomizers so thats a really touch device.I hate to say it but you kinda jumped into the deep end of the hobby and you should consider making an ecig station if/when you get your first RDA. Also, the 2C chip is probably limiting your voltage to 3.7 with some sort of amp limit.
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Just stay away from the cheap aluminum clones for mods and you "should" be alright. I recommend the nemesis because of the adjustable contacts, airflow controller, and kick ring.
I don't know your history with ecigs but either the itaste v3 or MVP2 make perfect first time purchases. THe vamo and VTR require external chargers which are like $20-$40 on the features and safety
sixtysix
Well-Known Member
Why would it be bad to dry burn? Im assuming it would be harmful?
Just a straight coil. One hitter then reload. I need to make something better for sure.
Yes the v6 is perfect. I'm glad I finally found use for it.
I did buy a dual coil RDA, that I am so far loving with K100(using it with the 2cent and 18650 battery). I need to do more wax testing on it but it's pretty great.Dude's the MVP IS NOT A waste. You will use it a lot to check ohms when you rebuild. I still keep my evic around for that reason. An ohm checker here is US is like $25 shipped, and MVP2 is $40 shipped and you use it as a passthrough.
I do recommend getting a 510-ego adapter ($2?) so you dont strip the thread on either device you choose to get to check your resistance. The constant abuse from rebuilding will wear out the threading.
You can always get a true stainless steel mech mod to avoid the issue
I hate to say it but you kinda jumped into the deep end of the hobby and you should consider making an ecig station if/when you get your first RDA. Also, the 2C chip is probably limiting your voltage to 3.7 with some sort of amp limit.
I only said that about the MVP, because the whole weekend I was pretty much playing with the K100, and not the MVP. So far the MVP works better with pure gold in the PT3, but not sure which to use for when(you know too many choices).
Any suggestions on a good 18500(or is 18490 better) battery?
Would the K100 be one of these cheap clones, or are they just average? Cause I looked into to find out they are one of the more popular mech models on the market. Plus I am not too worried about stripping the K100 as I can get threading portion of it for a fair price.
Yes the k100 is the most n00b friendly mech mod because of the price, telescoping abilities, I guess now they come with IMR Batteries, the outside (BIG TUBE) is aluminum so no problem with that, the 510 tube should be chrome plated brass if I'm not mistaken, and they should come with a charger and some crummy clearos. The only problem with them I've read in the past is they need actual alcohol baths vs wiping down because the button has some sort of clip so you cant take it apart.
for a bit more cash I would drop money on xtar charger, AW or Efest batteries (or go pro with Sony or Panasonic Batteries) and a sleek 22mm mech mod clone that I really like. I like having copper or silver contacts so the nemesis was perfect for me. You can tell the difference with brass, chrome, copper, or silver connection pins! Also most tanks/rda/rba's are coming out at 22mm nowadays.
for a bit more cash I would drop money on xtar charger, AW or Efest batteries (or go pro with Sony or Panasonic Batteries) and a sleek 22mm mech mod clone that I really like. I like having copper or silver contacts so the nemesis was perfect for me. You can tell the difference with brass, chrome, copper, or silver connection pins! Also most tanks/rda/rba's are coming out at 22mm nowadays.
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2clicker
Observer
to those who have used fish stone in an RDA... what did you cut/shape it with?
and is there a specifice type that is safe for our use?
got some ideas working up in my head. also been drawing up some specs for a gong style RDA (rebuildable dabbing atomizer). thinking of letting a local machine shop make some prototypes for me.
and is there a specifice type that is safe for our use?
got some ideas working up in my head. also been drawing up some specs for a gong style RDA (rebuildable dabbing atomizer). thinking of letting a local machine shop make some prototypes for me.
I liked the first one I purchased so much, that I bought another just for e-cig juice and keep the other one for oil, wax, and the like. Both are dual coil, and clones, however the down side is the flavor production on the one I purchased isn't as good, and vapor is a bit weaker. How can I rebuild it and adjust it to improve ont he flavor. Both, are at .07 ohms. Thank you.
wellhello!
wanted to toss this in here:
http://www.fasttech.com/forums/vapers/t/1244144/how-to-build-a-perfect-dab-coil-for-ceramic-cup
as it says: how to build a perfect dab coil for ceramic cups [for bulbstyle atomizers]
i did something similar myself and it worked out very nice. still have to rebuild using this as a reference but thought you might be interested. if not or repost,whatevs
wanted to toss this in here:
http://www.fasttech.com/forums/vapers/t/1244144/how-to-build-a-perfect-dab-coil-for-ceramic-cup
as it says: how to build a perfect dab coil for ceramic cups [for bulbstyle atomizers]
i did something similar myself and it worked out very nice. still have to rebuild using this as a reference but thought you might be interested. if not or repost,whatevs
.07 ohms is short circuit territory... who built the coils for you... and I can I hit them? .07 ohms at 4.2v is 60 amps/ 250+ watts, there's only one battery that can handle that load and its a 26650.
read up on microcoils, airflow, and try to build a solid single coil before you go dual. Also, for now please try and stay about 1ohm. A 1.2ohm 28g coil or 1.5ohm 30g coil would do well in a large RDA.
Sorry, that was a typo on my part, I should have said 0.7ohms. Not sure who built it, as I bought it from a local wholesaler(same model on fasttech was $4 less, but worth convenience and supporting local shops). It has two holes, but I plan to drill two more for better air flow. Also, I'll probably take it to my regular vapor spot have them rebuilt for better flavor. Thank you.
Don't use fish stones, use thisto those who have used fish stone in an RDA... what did you cut/shape it with?
and is there a specifice type that is safe for our use?
got some ideas working up in my head. also been drawing up some specs for a gong style RDA (rebuildable dabbing atomizer). thinking of letting a local machine shop make some prototypes for me.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00849ZSV0/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what everybody has been using on the ecig forum thread of porous ceramic wicks.
Make sure you wash it really well with water when you first get it before cutting. Use a dremel with a diamond disc cutting wheel to cut pieces off the block, you also can use a ceramic zirconia knife to cut big pieces off. Once you have a small piece, you can use a dremel to shape it with a grinding stone attachment such as these. Make sure to keep the ceramic wet with drops of water while you're grinding, it keeps dust from getting everywhere and also makes it easier. You might need to dunk the whole wick in water periodically as you're grinding so you can see the actual shapes you're cutting without all the ceramic dust in the way.
Once you have cut your piece and shaped it the way you want, let it soak in lemon/lime juice overnight. Any strong acid will do. After the soak, boil it in water, air dry it (or oven, whatever you want), then torch the SHIT out of it with a torch lighter till it's glowing orange. Torch it a couple times. At this point you'll be left with a nice white wick. You'll want to do the cleaning process after you shape it because it'll have lots of dust on it. For this reason, it's advantageous to cut/shape a variety of wick designs/shapes so you don't have to go through either process again.
These suggestions are based on my experiences in creating porous ceramic wicks. They work great and taste amazingly clean, but much experimentation is needed to get the right wick shape with the right resistance heating wire. I recommend you try thicker gauge wires, and try not to get to low resistance or else it'll taste burnt.
Definitely check out those vapin donuts, I think that would taste better than a bare heating wire, but I'm too poor to continue experimenting so hopefully you can carry on the torch with my experience.
2clicker
Observer
Don't use fish stones, use this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00849ZSV0/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what everybody has been using on the ecig forum thread of porous ceramic wicks.
Make sure you wash it really well with water when you first get it before cutting. Use a dremel with a diamond disc cutting wheel to cut pieces off the block, you also can use a ceramic zirconia knife to cut big pieces off. Once you have a small piece, you can use a dremel to shape it with a grinding stone attachment such as these. Make sure to keep the ceramic wet with drops of water while you're grinding, it keeps dust from getting everywhere and also makes it easier. You might need to dunk the whole wick in water periodically as you're grinding so you can see the actual shapes you're cutting without all the ceramic dust in the way.
Once you have cut your piece and shaped it the way you want, let it soak in lemon/lime juice overnight. Any strong acid will do. After the soak, boil it in water, air dry it (or oven, whatever you want), then torch the SHIT out of it with a torch lighter till it's glowing orange. Torch it a couple times. At this point you'll be left with a nice white wick. You'll want to do the cleaning process after you shape it because it'll have lots of dust on it. For this reason, it's advantageous to cut/shape a variety of wick designs/shapes so you don't have to go through either process again.
These suggestions are based on my experiences in creating porous ceramic wicks. They work great and taste amazingly clean, but much experimentation is needed to get the right wick shape with the right resistance heating wire. I recommend you try thicker gauge wires, and try not to get to low resistance or else it'll taste burnt.
Definitely check out those vapin donuts, I think that would taste better than a bare heating wire, but I'm too poor to continue experimenting so hopefully you can carry on the torch with my experience.
thanks for the tips.
215z
Well-Known Member
@lesvape I am paranoid about getting mismarked/counterfeit batteries, so I tend to overpay for them.
http://www.orbtronic.com/sony-18650-2600mah-vtc5-30a-high-drain-hybrid-imr-li-ion-battery
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18500-1100mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_3004.html
http://www.orbtronic.com/sony-18650-2600mah-vtc5-30a-high-drain-hybrid-imr-li-ion-battery
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18500-1100mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_3004.html
215z
Well-Known Member
I sound like a broken record, because my answer to many battery questions is "AW IMR". In the case of 18350, the new purple Efest cells look good too.
Both AW and Efest source and buy cells directly from manufacturers, sorts and grades them, then labels them for sale to distributors. Efest has been known to overstate specs slightly, and Andrew is known to understate specs slightly. That said the graphs don't lie, these purple Efests are legit.
For me, Andrew's commitment to consistent quality standards means alot. He is a flashlight freak and takes these things very personally. Whichever way you go, stick to vendors authorized by AW & Efest:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...500-*Part-2*&p=4800139&viewfull=1#post4800139
http://www.efestbattery.com/
Both AW and Efest source and buy cells directly from manufacturers, sorts and grades them, then labels them for sale to distributors. Efest has been known to overstate specs slightly, and Andrew is known to understate specs slightly. That said the graphs don't lie, these purple Efests are legit.
For me, Andrew's commitment to consistent quality standards means alot. He is a flashlight freak and takes these things very personally. Whichever way you go, stick to vendors authorized by AW & Efest:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...500-*Part-2*&p=4800139&viewfull=1#post4800139
http://www.efestbattery.com/
I take mah in this case doesn't really effect the battery life in this case? Because the purple efest is 700mah, while the red is 800mah. I noticed a local store has the purple 18350 in a version 2. Are they already on version 2 for the purples?
Then again the AW or purple efest 18500 is pretty tempting also.
Then again the AW or purple efest 18500 is pretty tempting also.
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