Just stay away from the cheap aluminum clones for mods and you "should" be alright. I recommend the nemesis because of the adjustable contacts, airflow controller, and kick ring.What is a good mech mod to get that is small and cost efficient? Or would someone be better off getting a iTaste MVP, or Vamo or VTR?
I have seen some people do it so I don't see why not. I think you would just have to be careful not to dry burn. Maybe soak the coil in e-juice beforehand even if it's 0 nic.
@sixtysix do you have a wick set up with that coil? Would you give us a photo? Thank you.
Absolutely ... that's what the OP is all about. The thread has since moved a completely different direction from "one hitter quiter" but you are on the correct path. I'd personally never cut my wax with pg or e liquid.
Phoenix v6 are my favorite. The ability to take the top half off the cart and adjustable air flow make it super easy to load and dial in your air flow for whatever style coil you're using.
I did buy a dual coil RDA, that I am so far loving with K100(using it with the 2cent and 18650 battery). I need to do more wax testing on it but it's pretty great.Dude's the MVP IS NOT A waste. You will use it a lot to check ohms when you rebuild. I still keep my evic around for that reason. An ohm checker here is US is like $25 shipped, and MVP2 is $40 shipped and you use it as a passthrough.
I do recommend getting a 510-ego adapter ($2?) so you dont strip the thread on either device you choose to get to check your resistance. The constant abuse from rebuilding will wear out the threading.
You can always get a true stainless steel mech mod to avoid the issueProvaris have also been know to strip the threading of atomizers so thats a really touch device.
I hate to say it but you kinda jumped into the deep end of the hobby and you should consider making an ecig station if/when you get your first RDA. Also, the 2C chip is probably limiting your voltage to 3.7 with some sort of amp limit.
Would the K100 be one of these cheap clones, or are they just average? Cause I looked into to find out they are one of the more popular mech models on the market. Plus I am not too worried about stripping the K100 as I can get threading portion of it for a fair price.Just stay away from the cheap aluminum clones for mods and you "should" be alright. I recommend the nemesis because of the adjustable contacts, airflow controller, and kick ring.
I liked the first one I purchased so much, that I bought another just for e-cig juice and keep the other one for oil, wax, and the like. Both are dual coil, and clones, however the down side is the flavor production on the one I purchased isn't as good, and vapor is a bit weaker. How can I rebuild it and adjust it to improve ont he flavor. Both, are at .07 ohms. Thank you.
Don't use fish stones, use thisto those who have used fish stone in an RDA... what did you cut/shape it with?
and is there a specifice type that is safe for our use?
got some ideas working up in my head. also been drawing up some specs for a gong style RDA (rebuildable dabbing atomizer). thinking of letting a local machine shop make some prototypes for me.![]()
Don't use fish stones, use this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00849ZSV0/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what everybody has been using on the ecig forum thread of porous ceramic wicks.
Make sure you wash it really well with water when you first get it before cutting. Use a dremel with a diamond disc cutting wheel to cut pieces off the block, you also can use a ceramic zirconia knife to cut big pieces off. Once you have a small piece, you can use a dremel to shape it with a grinding stone attachment such as these. Make sure to keep the ceramic wet with drops of water while you're grinding, it keeps dust from getting everywhere and also makes it easier. You might need to dunk the whole wick in water periodically as you're grinding so you can see the actual shapes you're cutting without all the ceramic dust in the way.
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Once you have cut your piece and shaped it the way you want, let it soak in lemon/lime juice overnight. Any strong acid will do. After the soak, boil it in water, air dry it (or oven, whatever you want), then torch the SHIT out of it with a torch lighter till it's glowing orange. Torch it a couple times. At this point you'll be left with a nice white wick. You'll want to do the cleaning process after you shape it because it'll have lots of dust on it. For this reason, it's advantageous to cut/shape a variety of wick designs/shapes so you don't have to go through either process again.
These suggestions are based on my experiences in creating porous ceramic wicks. They work great and taste amazingly clean, but much experimentation is needed to get the right wick shape with the right resistance heating wire. I recommend you try thicker gauge wires, and try not to get to low resistance or else it'll taste burnt.
Definitely check out those vapin donuts, I think that would taste better than a bare heating wire, but I'm too poor to continue experimenting so hopefully you can carry on the torch with my experience.