Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[doc]

thats messed up. i was considering getting the gray glass for my PT2. no offense, but are you certain that is is an authentic Kanger pyrex?

Yes, I know my suppliers

http://www.kangeronline.com/blogs/how-to-order-wholesale-online

fyi FC there is only a few real evod twists and no 1300mah option.


Also check this bad boy out from SMOKTECH

1) Xpure is newest type dripper vaporizer, you can control it's airflow by twist the triangle airflow switch. Each Xpure come with a small airflow control tool.
2) Xpure is doulble casing tank, it has 2 tube, air flow like this:
airhole - gap of 2 steel tube - base of the tank(coil) - drip tip
So it won't have a burning taste.
3) Xpure's base is made of ceramic, you won't taste metal smell even at high temperature.
4) 3 poles, for dual coil. Pre-installed dual coil 1.5ohm and 2.0ohm
5) Xpure come with pyrex glass drip tip

 

[lesvape]

Really? What is the largest an evod twist can be had? That's a bit disappoint to hear. Well I guess I will use my evod with my T3D, and knock off globe(which works well for hash and wax on low volts).

Is there a link for the xpure?

Edit: any suggestions on a model for sub-ohm wax/oil vaping that is vv, maybe something that is compact?

 

[mystikalghost]

My MVP came and for the lulz I decided to put some wax on the coil in my mPT3 just because I wanted to use it. There wasn't much airflow and I bet the aerotank would be better. I would pull pretty hard and vapor would stay in the tube. I guess I will try rebuilding those coils and go from there...to something.

EDIT: Fixed the airflow problems. There is a plastic ring that goes above the coil to prevent ... something. Took that off and now it's hitting well. A LOT better than I expected.

 

[kingtut106]

Really? What is the largest an evod twist can be had? That's a bit disappoint to hear. Well I guess I will use my evod with my T3D, and knock off globe(which works well for hash and wax on low volts).

Is there a link for the xpure?

Edit: any suggestions on a model for sub-ohm wax/oil vaping that is vv, maybe something that is compact?

If you're sub-ohming your goal is to achieve high watts, usually above 25-30+. If you have a .5 ohm coil on a mec mod (3.7 V) that is 27 watts, which should definitely suffice as a cloudy one-hitter haha.

Sub-ohming with a vv/vw isn't really worth the money since you will probably be operating it at 4 volts max to stay under the wattage limit of the device. Yes it does provide more accurate/steady pulses so I guess if you have the money go buy a provari 2.5 for $159, but I don't see the benefit.

I prefer my mec mod running a dual coil setup at .7 ohms, if I'm going for a one hitter.

 

[doc]

Really? What is the largest an evod twist can be had? That's a bit disappoint to hear. Well I guess I will use my evod with my T3D, and knock off globe(which works well for hash and wax on low volts).

Is there a link for the xpure?

Edit: any suggestions on a model for sub-ohm wax/oil vaping that is vv, maybe something that is compact?

http://www.kangeronline.com/collections/kangertech-batteries

 

[2clicker]

my halo cap came in so i thought i would snap some pics of the setup ive been running. i am loving the cap so far. looks great, all SS, and AFC.

pic of my rig for solids

here is the halo cap on my igo-w base w/ a wide delrin drip tip

here you can see the igo base left (its new also), halo body on the right, and the halo top in the middle. also, note the wick here... looks pretty clean right? that is after about a ten sec burn to clean it. the wick had seen over a gram of oil before the cleaning.

here the halo body is on the igo base and the halo top is inverted. please disregard the dirty bottom part of my drip tip. it came right outta the old igo cap and straight into this one.
as you can see the machining is very good and everything fits perfectly. except for the orings that UGO provide with their RDA bases. im going to be replacing those with some HT silicone orings soon. but the oring that comes on the halo cap is a perfect fit for it. i will still likely replace it tho.

that coil is right at about 2.8ohms. i can take giant rips or sip on it pretty easily. i find myself reaching for this setup before my solo w/ flowers every day now. i cant put it down.

 

[lesvape]

So, if I go with something like a K100/1, would spending extra for the vv(which has the kicker) model be pointless then? Something about models like(K10x) that has me tempted, but would it be a waste since I have a globe for wax/hash oil, or would these sub-ohm setups be better? Thank you?

 

[walrus]

So, if I go with something like a K100/1, would spending extra for the vv(which has the kicker) model be pointless then? Something about models like(K10x) that has me tempted, but would it be a waste since I have a globe for wax/hash oil, or would these sub-ohm setups be better? Thank you?

All of these set ups are not necessarily sub ohm. @2clicker posted a nice looking rig above with a 2.8ohm coil. One of the best parts about these rebuildables to me is the flexibility it gives you. You can build coils to any resistance and dial in what works best for you. Experiment with different wire types/guages, wicking materials, atomizers, etc until you get a truly personalized vape experience. A mech mod like the k100 and a good 18650 battery gives you the freedom to build coils safely at most any resistance. The kick adds vv but restricts what ohm coils you can use. I don't find a need for the kick for vaping concentrates and prefer a regular mechanical.

 

[doc]

my halo cap came in so i thought i would snap some pics of the setup ive been running. i am loving the cap so far. looks great, all SS, and AFC.

pic of my rig for solids

here is the halo cap on my igo-w base w/ a wide delrin drip tip


here you can see the igo base left (its new also), halo body on the right, and the halo top in the middle. also, note the wick here... looks pretty clean right? that is after about a ten sec burn to clean it. the wick had seen over a gram of oil before the cleaning.


here the halo body is on the igo base and the halo top is inverted. please disregard the dirty bottom part of my drip tip. it came right outta the old igo cap and straight into this one.
as you can see the machining is very good and everything fits perfectly. except for the orings that UGO provide with their RDA bases. im going to be replacing those with some HT silicone orings soon. but the oring that comes on the halo cap is a perfect fit for it. i will still likely replace it tho.

that coil is right at about 2.8ohms. i can take giant rips or sip on it pretty easily. i find myself reaching for this setup before my solo w/ flowers every day now. i cant put it down.

n00b questions...
1 - is that regular silica wick, 30g wire?
2 - your rda is very clean... do you carefully load each and every dab?
3 - What mod is that?
4 - 2.8 ohms why not lower like standard 2.4???

A mech mod like the k100 and a good 18650 battery gives you the freedom to build coils safely at most any resistance. The kick adds vv but restricts what ohm coils you can use. I don't find a need for the kick for vaping concentrates and prefer a regular mechanical.

Good batteries include, Sony, MNKE, Panasonic, Sanyo, AW/Efest, in that dont trust any other brand for sub-ohming! Yes AW and Efest are bottom of the barrel for mech mod usage, dont even bother with trust fire batteries, you can trust a fire to start in your hand .

I believe the lowest you can go on a kick is 1.3 ohms, but with no kick and a sony battery you can almost make a single coil build with any kanthal wire.

Also, there's been a craze going on with ecigs and making clouds. It really spurred the rebuildable industry but is making a mockery of it at the same time. If you prefer regular clearo/carto style vaping on a mech mod you can "build" cartomizer like this 1.7 ohm baby. Its a euro style build as I've seen they love building spheroids and copying that design with evods and such.

Hopefully you can see I shielded the coil with ecowool, then surrounded with filler, it now holds about 2ml. Now my omega stopped leaking from the sides (I only do single coil builds) and has a very reduced chamber. This allows me to properly use the airflow adjustment to dial in my vape on a mech mod

I'm going to try and fo another sheild by making a wire net with the negative posts and 26g wire next I'm aiming for 3-4ml hahahaha

edit: Im actually on hour 4 and this is seriously rocking. I'm producing seriously easy clouds with this setup. Thick rich vapor production

 

[2clicker]

n00b questions...
1 - is that regular silica wick, 30g wire?
2 - your rda is very clean... do you carefully load each and every dab?
3 - What mod is that?
4 - 2.8 ohms why not lower like standard 2.4???

1 - its braided ceramic wick. the "ready x wick" stuff that we have been talking about in here. silica wick would just burn up if you tried to "coil clean" it. oh and that is 32 gauge kanthal. i went from 28 to 32 to gain more resistence w/out needing more coils.

2 - that igo-w base and halo cap are both brand new. thats why they are so clean. i load by popping the halo top off (leaving the halo body on igo base) and place the dab right onto the coil/wick. then i usually hit the heat real quick to get the dab to start to melt onto the coil.

3 - that is the K2 mod from fasttech. its cheap, but performs great and it has the simple look i am going for. i dont know why all of the mech mods have to have some ugly ass engraving on them. i am currently eyeing up an EHpro nemesis clone w/out a logo.

4 - i find 2.8-3ohms to be my preferred resistence because it fires quick, but is still forgiving for newbs. i can pass it to someone without worrying they will burn the dab.

and for the record i am using Efest 18350 imr 800mah cells and get tons of use out of one because my resistence is so high. i will be looking into some MKNE or sony 18350s soon. for solids you dont need tons of heat like you may for eliquid.

 

[jdee]

Sweet dripper, I was using a normal one with just the topcap before and I found it got sticky/messy after a while around the orings making it difficult to remove the topcap. I figured a 3 piece dripper like the one your using would make it less messy, although ideally the topcap sits on the outside of the airflow ring not the inside so any buildup of claim wouldn't affect the ability to remove the topcap.

I still have a bunch of xc-116 (or ready x wick as you call it) but ever since 3M came out and said they definitely do not want people using it in ecigs I never bothered.

Before buying clones you should be aware that they are made in sweatshops, by underage children.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/20eixd/the_sad_truth_of_hcigar/

I recommend looking into getting a NON clone mod, what a refreshing experience to support someone who invested time/money to come up with a design, rather than support a chinese factory owner who employs child labor and uses stolen designs. How does one justify such a purchase, is it the same way people justify shopping at walmart because the prices are so incredible, even though the savings come at a huge cost to taxpayers (6.2 billion in public assistance for walmart employees last year) and as a result society (where did the money go for education? it went back to walmart when their employees who don't earn a living wage use their food stamps at ....WALMART)

 

[2clicker]

Sweet dripper, I was using a normal one with just the topcap before and I found it got sticky/messy after a while around the orings making it difficult to remove the topcap. I figured a 3 piece dripper like the one your using would make it less messy, although ideally the topcap sits on the outside of the airflow ring not the inside so any buildup of claim wouldn't affect the ability to remove the topcap.

I still have a bunch of xc-116 (or ready x wick as you call it) but ever since 3M came out and said they definitely do not want people using it in ecigs I never bothered.

Before buying clones you should be aware that they are made in sweatshops, by underage children.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/20eixd/the_sad_truth_of_hcigar/

I recommend looking into getting a NON clone mod, what a refreshing experience to support someone who invested time/money to come up with a design, rather than support a chinese factory owner who employs child labor and uses stolen designs. How does one justify such a purchase, is it the same way people justify shopping at walmart because the prices are so incredible, even though the savings come at a huge cost to taxpayers (6.2 billion in public assistance for walmart employees last year) and as a result society (where did the money go for education? it went back to walmart when their employees who don't earn a living wage use their food stamps at ....WALMART)

is 3M the MFG of the braided ceramic wick? the same stuff that RBASUPPLIES.com is carrying? and can you post a link to some thing showing they said not to use it in ecigs?

regarding clones and sweatshops... how do you know the originals arent also made in seeatshops by kids. anything coming from china could be produced that way. is there a way to tell?

 

[bigsnack]

What the cheapest price one can get the K100 or K101, or K102 kits yo? I only really need the battery and charger no need for the atty. Or is there another model you sugget that is cheaper and just as good? Thank a bizzle.

 

[jdee]

is 3M the MFG of the braided ceramic wick? the same stuff that RBASUPPLIES.com is carrying? and can you post a link to some thing showing they said not to use it in ecigs?

regarding clones and sweatshops... how do you know the originals arent also made in seeatshops by kids. anything coming from china could be produced that way. is there a way to tell?

3M = nextel = xc-116
Lance from steammonkey dot com posted a while back as he was trying to become a supplier for it
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1epnbj/monkey_university_5202013_wicks_201/
Here is the relevant quote

Nextel is sorta off my radar now personally because 3m, the makers of it, have said they do not want it used in electronic cigarettes. Nextel or "XC116" wick is a braided flexible ceramic. It is NOT useable for our purposes without at LEAST being heat CLEANED. Heat TREATED would be preferable and it's important that people understand the differences because not everyone uses proper terminology out there.

To properly heat CLEAN XC-116 you have to run it at approximately 400 degrees Celsius for 5 minutes in a furnace/kiln.

To properly heat TREAT XC-116 you have to run it at approximately 900 degrees Celsius for 4 hours.

Cleaning will remove sizing material and any dangerous decomposition products (gasses). Treating it will make the material more rigid, less likely to fray and separate and overall toughen the material.

Cleaned XC-116 'should' be safe to use based on the MSDS and other sources of information. However, 3m doesn't want us using it so I personally won't.

Looking at rbasupplies they appear to understand the risks involved and are doing what they can to mitigate them. Their MSDS states

Due to their large size (7-13 microns in diameter), these Nextel (TM)
Ceramic Fibers are considered non-respirable and therefore are not expected to pose a cancer risk. Fibers are defined as respirable by
WHO convention if the length is larger than 5 microns and the diameter is less than 3 microns with a length to diameter ratio
greater than 3:1.

They also heat treat it at 1650 for 12 hours (it's rated up 2200f), even though 3m recommends 900f for 4 hours, is this a good thing..who knows. As long as the wick is fully saturated while in use I wouldn't expect fiber inhalation to be a concern, especially on a treated wick which should be partially rigid.

If you seriously have an interest in supporting the creators in the mod/rba community sadly it requires effort beyond going to a webstore and adding something to your cart 99% of the time. The most common being getting on the modders list (after waiting who knows how long, he is currently busy producing,finishing,shipping the last batch) on ecig forums or facebook. They are unable to meet the demand, china stepped in and saved the day, making it easy to buy and cheap. I don't blame people for buying clones..I just can't personally bring myself to do it.

An example of one such creator would be Perseas who runs http://www.vapourart.com all his products are top notch and the customer service is amazing. However one of his mods would cost you $130-$260 and you would have to wait for the countdown timer on his website to start the sale before you can buy anything (there is one in 4 days, yay.) That night you will sleep like a baby knowing your purchase/donation will be going towards supporting the fair wages of a Bulgarian machine shop worker as well as the creator/designer, or not.

 

[215z]

I prime my wick by warming up the coil, and holding a glob of concentrate to the wick. I watch the concentrate melt and flow into the wick. I then gun the heat, and vape off the oil in the wick.

It seems like some of you put your concentrate on top of the coils and vape it right off the coils. Some oil melts into the wick and gets vaped right off, but it's almost incidental.

TrueNorthStar took it further by skipping the wick and spec'ing the coil to incinerate the whole juice-well.

If you vape off the coil, why not skip the wick too? Maybe try that stovetop coil?

 

[doc]

It seems like some of you put your concentrate on top of the coils and vape it right off the coils. Some oil melts into the wick and gets vaped right off, but it's almost incidental.

TrueNorthStar took it further by skipping the wick and spec'ing the coil to incinerate the whole juice-well.

If you vape off the coil, why not skip the wick too? Maybe try that stovetop coil?

Yes, in my snoop pen I load about .6 and am good to go, the oil never gets passed the ceramic dish and ecowool soaks it up when liquified. Personally I can't have my coils touching any of my 510 RDA's because they will short out, I dont know how TrueNorthStar did it, but I cant find the post.

Last, my ceramic wick came in a day early Time to rebuild

 

[2clicker]

3M = nextel = xc-116
Lance from steammonkey dot com posted a while back as he was trying to become a supplier for it
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1epnbj/monkey_university_5202013_wicks_201/
Here is the relevant quote


Looking at rbasupplies they appear to understand the risks involved and are doing what they can to mitigate them. Their MSDS states

Due to their large size (7-13 microns in diameter), these Nextel (TM)
Ceramic Fibers are considered non-respirable and therefore are not expected to pose a cancer risk. Fibers are defined as respirable by
WHO convention if the length is larger than 5 microns and the diameter is less than 3 microns with a length to diameter ratio
greater than 3:1.

They also heat treat it at 1650 for 12 hours (it's rated up 2200f), even though 3m recommends 900f for 4 hours, is this a good thing..who knows. As long as the wick is fully saturated while in use I wouldn't expect fiber inhalation to be a concern, especially on a treated wick which should be partially rigid.

If you seriously have an interest in supporting the creators in the mod/rba community sadly it requires effort beyond going to a webstore and adding something to your cart 99% of the time. The most common being getting on the modders list (after waiting who knows how long, he is currently busy producing,finishing,shipping the last batch) on ecig forums or facebook. They are unable to meet the demand, china stepped in and saved the day, making it easy to buy and cheap. I don't blame people for buying clones..I just can't personally bring myself to do it.

An example of one such creator would be Perseas who runs http://www.vapourart.com all his products are top notch and the customer service is amazing. However one of his mods would cost you $130-$260 and you would have to wait for the countdown timer on his website to start the sale before you can buy anything (there is one in 4 days, yay.) That night you will sleep like a baby knowing your purchase/donation will be going towards supporting the fair wages of a Bulgarian machine shop worker as well as the creator/designer, or not.

about the wick. i did see all that stuff about the micron size and it not being an issue and it put my mind at ease about it. much safer than silica of which is very respirable. and its not like i am using this thing like a nicotine vaper uses theirs. sounds to me like the risks are pretty small using xc-116. besides maybe nextel says they dont advise the use of it because the ecig industry is like the wild west and they are covering their ass...?

If you vape off the coil, why not skip the wick too? Maybe try that stovetop coil?

i dont vape off the coil only. i heat it a bit to keep the dab in place and then rip it. im sure some of it vapes off the coil but most of it absorbs into the wick first. i think vaping off a stovetop coil alone would give a metal taste, but not sure. im really liking the ceramic.

Last, my ceramic wick came in a day early Time to rebuild

nice. enjoy!

 

[lesvape]

The combination of being single, pay day and having the modding bug, I got a K100(may order the vv kicker later) today locally. I haven't tested as my T3D is a bit to wide to screw on it. Really like the size and shape with the 18350. I think I may use this for wax and ecig juice, and have the MVP for pure gold, and everything else. And to think I started ecigs to quit analog cigs.

 

[doc]

omg ceramic is the tits! 2mm readyXwick actually slides PERFECTLY into a 16g needle which is 1.65mm or slightly bigger than 1/16th drill bit. There is zero gap and the ceramic stayed hollow. It wicks like a champ in my SMALL RDAs, but its too bad I hate dripping. I recoiled a brand new snoop tank and its a bit too hot but runs sooo much better. I'm guessing high 1 to low 2 ohm range. I really need a desktop multimeter Now I know why 2clicker runs at 2.8 ohms. I haven't been at a 9 in a loooong time. I'm so done for today and it hasn't even started lol

edit lesvapes, not sure about the real kick, but my FT kick 12w gets really hot sometimes. Its kind of a life saver with the 18350 and regular 2+ ohm stuffs when going out, but I rarely use it tbh. I'd rather invest in a set of good 18500's or 18650's if you're comfortable with the weight. I had a favorite 18500, my first real mech mod battery I got with my nemesis, it would last me most if not the whole day with a kanger 2.5 ohm protank. The adjustable airflow is built into the nemesis!

 

[lesvape]

How do I use the 2cente safety that came with the K100? I am right now trying the K100 with the a version of the Sapphire and the 18350 battery and sadly vapor production out of VG ecig liquid isn't as good as the MVP at the same volts :-/

 

[doc]

How do I use the 2cente safety that came with the K100? I am right now trying the K100 with the a version of the Sapphire and the 18350 battery and sadly vapor production out of VG ecig liquid isn't as good as the MVP at the same volts :-/

can't help you much dude, try

this thread at ecf

but if you got an IMR 18350 the maximum amps you can push is like 6 which is pretty crazy high, some can do 10 amps. If you have an ICR you'd better use the safety fuse. There are a lot of people in that thread agreeing with me that a safety fuse isn't needed with good batteries because their chemistry gives them higher ratings, and they just kinda die instead of explode when a short occurs. The only problem is they have lower mah ratings, or battery life, because they are unregulated.

edit, wash your mod with soap and water then wip it down with rubiing acohol. you probably need to clean the contacts or something. I have to do it every month or so with my nemesis.

 

[lesvape]

Well for safety sake I am using the included 2cent fuse, had youtube it to see how to use it. It also came with a larger 18650(?), both are Kamry branded. Thank you

BTW, I think one can push up to 11amps with the MVP(which I also just got).

 

[doc]

Well for safety sake I am using the included 2cent fuse, had youtube it to see how to use it. It also came with a larger 18650(?), both are Kamry branded. Thank you

BTW, I think one can push up to 11amps with the MVP(which I also just got).

I dunno where in SoCal you are, but if you wanna meet at a vape shop I'll let you use some of my stuff I've had over the years. I also wanna give you a good battery, they're like 6 bucks for an IMR 18350, and Im scared for your face. That Kamry battery is ICR and will most likely explode over 2.5 amps :/

 

[doc]

edit: double

 

[lesvape]

I dunno where in SoCal you are, but if you wanna meet at a vape shop I'll let you use some of my stuff I've had over the years. I also wanna give you a good battery, they're like 6 bucks for an IMR 18350, and Im scared for your face. That Kamry battery is ICR and will most likely explode over 2.5 amps :/

Well both Kamry batteries I have says IMR and using it with the included 2cent fuse(correctly). I'm in DTLA area. I was thinking of getting a 18500 IMR though. I really like the K100 so much that I am starting to thinking that maybe getting the MVP was a bit of a waste?