Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by stinkmeaner, May 20, 2010.
Sorry, double post.
@Mescalito. Glad to see you managed to salvage your Vapocane and liking the new Magic Glass piece. I got the Rude Boy, and yes - he can take some abuse for sure
Yeah, the rude boy is a classic beaker shape with a bent neck and mr. Orange, well, I don't know how to call it. but it's a bit more graceful I guess.
How do you like it and how is it's stability?
Oh, posting pictures is not hard at all, have a look here: How to post pictures
But at the 'o' is clear enough, that's like half through. And it is still able to produce the same big clouds and turn the ABV to a dark brown using the retained heating method with so much of it's mass missing?
It seems stable enough, I still set it down carefully. It's been years since I had a proper water pipe. I've been using plastic bottles with with various stems and bowls. It has worked o.k., but every time I enjoyed a hit from someones quality bong, I realized I was missing something. Mr. Orange hits very well with the cane, and I like being able to be hold the tube nearly horizontal and take a hit. The bowl that came with it is nice and thick, of course I won't ne using it. I bought some of those glass star screens, but the do not fit in the cone shaped bowl, and it is too small for the cane. One thing about this water pipe is the loud gurgle and swoosh when clearing a hit. Not super stealth, but a fun experience for me. The plastic bottle bongs never gave me that satisfaction. I will probably continue to use plastic bottles with my cane when I'm away from home. I learned my lesson and now I'm using a sturdy bottle. It seems the glass on the bottom half of the cane doesn't get too hot, and the base is just touching water. I would not ne happy to have it shatter. Maybe I need to rig something up. The plastic has not melted, and I keep a moist piece of paper towel wrapped around the cane base to for a tight seal. That probably keeps the temperature down somewhat. Thanks for the photo posting info. I still have to wait because I don't want to take pictures with my phone, my girlfriend has a good camera.
I broke my Vapocane But I fixed it again
Basically I was an idiot. When trying to take the hot top off I stuck a long metal poker in the teeny top hole. The glass having just been blasted within an inch of melting was brittle and I took a chunk off the top.
To fix I got some sandpaper I had laying around - 100 grit I think - and sanded it all level. It was a bit rough at first but I flame blasted the sanded area and it looks smooth as....
The opening was a bit large at first. This added a greater airflow but I found the load was getting finished much quicker than normal and it was much easier to combust. To remedy the situation I super heated the top and used a pencil lead (kindly suggested by Alan @ TT) to gently close up the hole - worked a treat.
It's hitting like new now and I cant notice any difference caused by losing those 3-4 mils that I sanded off.
Sorry to hear that J.R.R.Tokin', mine broke while still hot also. I'm glad you were able to fix yours. I think I need to close the hole on mine a little, as I'd like to slow the draw and potentially retain the heat better, though the heat seems sufficient. I tend to draw very slowly anyway to not over cool the air passing through the herb. I have started to combust a couple of times since my last report. This was due to going for a third vape off the same material, and overheating, and probably as you mention, the added airflow. I can watch the vapor as it's produced, and as soon as the white vapor turned yellow, I knew it was burning, before i saw the herb ignite. I stopped inhaling when I saw it which kept the cleaning to only the stem and cane. Cleaning has been easy with iso alcohol. Still haven't taken photos, but will at some time.
Yay, lots of breakage itt!
Glad you guys still get your invalid Canes to work though
I think we need pics btw
I have combusted with my Cane for the first time yesterday while using the retained heating method.
I had added some kief to a half finished bowl and it just kept going and going and going, until at one point the vapor was a bit to dense and yellowish and tasted mighty funny. I couldn't see a cherry and I couldn't even find any ash in the bowl, but everything definitely reeked of smoke, including me. I wasn't even heating it that excessively or taking a particularly long draw when it happened.
I hate cleaning bongs & glass parts in the middle of the night..
@OTA You were using the retained heat method when it combusted? What kind of torch do you use and how long had you been heating the 'cane? I only ask because I have combusted using the "A" method, but never using the retained heat method. Do you heat the tip a lot with the torch, or evenly heat the entire 'cane?
I use my Cane a lot (overall it's still my fav vape out of my modest collection) but it never happened to me before either Stu.
I use a big-ass torch, but I'd like to think I pretty much mastered it by now and I wasn't even heating it excessively like I sometimes do. 30 seconds of evenly heating (I always heat the entire thing from all sides, never just the top) on a high flame setting perhaps, and I think I kept the flame on the belly of the Cane (that's what I call the wider area around the height of the "V" from "Vapocane") for the first 2 seconds of inhaling before I put it away. I've torched it way more then that before, without even scorching the bowl. I had just cleaned the Cane though (accidental combustion always seems to happen right AFTER cleaning, lol), so the screen may have been a little on the high side. But I'm pretty sure the main cause was that the bud was so dry from repeatedly hitting it with an overdose of kief-enrichment. The only time I ever combusted with my SSV was also when I was hitting a bowl again and again and again to get everything out of it. I'm dutch, remember?
I have managed to combust with the retained method - but it was the end of the bowl and I was doing an OTA trying to get out goodies that didn't exist
I will post pics tomorrow of my crippled cane!
That doesn't look to bad at all man, I don't think I would have noticed it if you hadn't said anything and just posted the photo. How much is missing, about a mm or 3-4 at most?
lol, mine isn't so pretty. It was after only the second time I had used it. I literally just touched the tip with the cleaning brush to see if the brush fit in, just out of curiosity, when a shard of the glass flaked away. No force at all. I wasn't sure what to use to 'cut' the protruding piece off when it was hot, so instead I melted it down to close up some of the gap. It's not pretty, far from it even, but it works. I'm certainly not impressed with the durability of the Vapocane though.
LOL thats ugly.. WT.. Glad it still does the job though .. I suggest if you brake it further more you just get a Gnome Gong.. It is made of thick german Borosilicate brand "Simax" .. which is top quality stuff.. I torched mine with a garage torch in -20 C.. and dropped it in the snow.. and it endured the heatstress somehow.. + i have knocked it off and dropped ot on the wooden floor without breakage.. It feels as durable as my MW felt.. and glass is as thick.. and maybe survived already the half drops my mw did .
Wat, I didn't know you had one too mate. Was that my fault as well?
Do you have the Gnome to or is the Cane the only one missing from your sign? (hint )
After reading about all these casualties I wonder if I just got lucky with mine or that I'm simply more careful than you guys. I've dropped mine several times too, I have poked at it with several brushes (I have way to many of those, lol) as well, plus I've shaken it to hard in my glass reclaim-jar too (thought I'd broke it from the sound it made) and it's still as new *knocks on wood*
I have thought about buying a Vapocane-B as a back-up piece though. Just in case, but I'd also like to see the two of them side by side.
Hello, I bought a vapocane B. I am afraid it is not made of borosilicate 3.3, because it has been made in china and is lower quality than the original one. What do you think of ? Is it really troublesome ?
Must I be afraid of the lower quality, could it be dangerous for my health ?
BTW, borosilicate glass max temperature of use is 500 celsius degrees. So how to monitor the temperature of the glass while using it ?
Do you think the glass may reach its melting point if I am not cautious ?
BTW, every kind of cane (gnOme, vapocane) makes me think of a heat exchanger. I am pretty sure one can make a calculus to know exactly the air temperature at the output of the heat exchanger, at a given temperature for the cane. I can look at the calculus and tell you.
What is the length of the conduct (input/grass sample) in your vapocane, so that I can try to make the calculus out ?
Welcome to FC!
I think you're over thinking this to be honest.
Just torch it until you see the flame ricocheting of the Vapocane turn orange and you're there. I have never seen a non-eurocane irl, but you should be careful not heating either one for to long anyway. The glass is pretty thin on these so they will all melt if you heat them for to long.
Have fun and enjoy!
Oh yes, I maybe overthinking.
It is my first vape, so I don't want to buy something that could be even worse for the lungs than smoking grass.
I bought a torch to go with which seems pretty accurate :
Actually, what does it mean when the flame turn orange ? Well anyway I guess it needs some trials to have a good hand at it. Thanks.
BTW, I sent a contact form to vapocane.com, asking what are exactly the differences between vapocane b and european model (kind of glass, weight, etc). I hope they will reply soon. I didn't get the vapocane yet, it should come soon.
i think that the only differences between the two version of the vapocane are the accessories (or lack of accessories) that come in each package. the vapocane B also has the letter B added to the glass heat exchanger part. i would be interested to hear what vapocane says about this.
i picked another vapocane B up during the xmas sale, as i felt i needed to give this vape another go. at the time i thought that this vape was probably the best bang for your buck you could buy - however, i haven't tried the gnome vapes, which became more well known soon after i ordered my vapocane B.
anyways, i had been really enjoying my glassvapobowl because of its screen pinches and quick heatup times. the vapocane B can deliver vapor as quick, if not a little bit quicker, than the gvb, and it tastes much better! however, its much easier to combust with the vapocane than the gvb when using the direct heating method.
screen placement is major issue with the vapocane. it takes some experimentation to find the perfect spot. the 'bowl', or intermediary joint between the vapocane B and the waterpipe really needs to be redesigned, or just designed in the first place! if only it was possible to mate the gvb bowl with the vapocane top...
i think it is possible to melt your vapocane if you heat it too long at the very tip, there are pics in this thread of melted tips.
how will you measure the temp of the vapocane in order to be to do your calculations? i would be interested in knowing if there is a way to guesstimate (with some reasonable accuracy) what temps your actively vaping at, other than by simply judging your abv afterwards.
i don't understand this question.
super glad i got the vapocane, really came in handy last weekend when i had no access to a plug. thinking of doing a vapocane vid when i have some time.
To make a computation, one needs, the mean speed of air inside the pipe, the diameter of the pipe and the length of the pipe. There is some formula that can you the quantity of energy transfered to the air flowing through the pipe.
I see you are a bong vaporizer guru. I would like to try the glass vapo-bowl, and the gn0me vaporizer.
Actually I think of buying a gn0me, it seems pretty accurate from what I read on this forum. Do they ship to europe ? Do you know a store ?
I think there are to many variables here.
-flame height will be impossible to keep constant (it will go smaller when the torch tank gets emptier).
-it's hand blown glass so there are probably minor differences between heater-mass and thickness.
-how will you know what your drawspeed is and how do you keep that constant?
just to name a few.
I'd just get a Supreme instead if you want to be able to replicate your experience, although I don't think it will be necessary after a little experience with the Cane.
You have to contact the guy that makes the Gnome to order one. Look for more info in the Gnome thread please.
I have that same torch btw. It's one of the cheapest ones I have but also one of my favorites. I use a bigger one with my Vapocane though. You'll need to fill this one more often but it will still work with the Cane as long as you turn it up high.
Videos are always welcome Boobs! Been getting enough sleep lately?
Indeed, this somehow too complicated. Let's stick to a good empirical knowledge obtained through patience and attention. No more fancy.
sleep wth is that? hahahah its the first week so it's been rough
so here is the video. not sure if my technique is right but it works for me.
Click to play YouTube Video
EXCELLENT ! I love your vid. I am a beginner to vaporization, I have a few noob question for you if you don't mind :-)
Well, First question, (thanks) does the vapor has to be opaque like on your vid for the vaporization to be effective ?
Second question, did you try without water ? Does it change a lot without waper, or is it the same ? What is your opinion, does water (with ice, why not) make a better vapor ?
Third question, I saw some vids of you on the youtube, so you may have an opinion about efficiency, taste, easiness of use for you about any vaporizer you tried on your bong. Can you tell me what's the best ? I saw that you used some woody electrical vaporizer to go with your bong. How this is called ?
BTW, your bong bowl is 14.5 mm , isn't it ?
Thanks for sharing man ! I wish you easy vap everyday.
If I can throw my in.... Try moving the flame around the 'cane for more thorough heat distribution. This will also minimize the possibility of causing damage by accidental melting/warping.
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