Discussion in 'DIY' started by Pipes, Nov 23, 2016.
Thank you @Pipes! And thank you for my Caldron!
Trying out my caldron for the first time. When I insert the vapcap I hear a click but the red LED is blinking, not static. It’s not getting hot after 30-40 sec of holding it down. Also blue light on the power brick flashes in sequence to the red LED on the heater.
the cord into the device doesn’t insert flush. Looks like it can go in another few mm but feels tight. Tried inserting the AC cord severa times to ensure it is snug.
I’m sure I’m missing something obvious. Thanks for any help.
Best to personal message @Pipes directly. I'm sure he will get things straightened out for you. My Caldron has worked without a hitch from day one. Now just waiting for my name to come up on his list to purchase the Port Side Mini.
Thanks. Is the red LED supposed to blink or constant on when the VC is inserted?
The connector from my power supply to my Caldron does not seat all the way. My Caldron works fine.
The led should be solid red while heating. If your led is flashing then l think you have a problem.
@Pipes told me this was normal ... it sounds like a power supply issue ... like the others have said ... contact pipes and he will fix you up!
I've been experiencing a similar thing in my Jarhead, although your issue sounds worse than mine. Mine just flickers dimmer instead of going out completely, and it doesn't seem to affect my heatup times.
What’s the best way to clean my well loved Caldron? Isopropyl swab the glass and pearl?
Should I worry if little bits of abv fall in between the rubber washer thingy and the pearl? (hope this last question makes sense)
Why exactly are you finding ABV in your IH?
I have some vape honey that collect on my glass liner. That comes off quickly with ISO and a swab.
I should have said fine abv dust as it’s mainly honey. The abv dust may have been from pollen that was sandwiched between the cap and tip...
Yep, ISO and a swab.
Hello awesome people
I need help with battery information...
Purchased a PSM and Caldron from Pipes (Amazing!)
I,ve built a simple desktop ih which I quickly gifted to a sibling upon recept of above mentioned ih's
I now want to build a battery powered ih, something with a larger battery capacity than a PSM (again probably going to my less fortunate sibling)
If Im building with a 5-12v (max 20amp coz it sez so on the board) zvs induction driver powered by 3x18650 in series, with a 3s bms board rated at 20Amps or higher (finding 25a-40A readily available), will the induction driver pull the full 20A?
Is this preferred?
Does amperage affect heat up time? or battery life/performance? Is lower better? Like 6/8/10A?
Should I rather use a BMS thats rated 10A max (much harder for me to obtain). Im seeing alot of builds online with 25A bms boards?
Reason Im going for the 3x18650 design because it seems the easiest for me to understand, would it be simpler to use the 3000mah lipo Pipes mentions in his post on batteries? Ive found some biggies that are 5000mah 3s 40c?Must I be careful of the capacity rating 20c 30c 40c etc?
Do these Lipo batteries also require a bms to control current/amperage or can they be connected directly to the IH when not being charged by a dedicated charger?
*I will not be charging any batteries via a bms only with a dedicated external charger.
Apologies if these questions are here somewhere and have been answered(I have been searching, promise)
@GB3663 - the standard China offering pulls about 60 watts. With line losses, I deliver 10V to the IH and read 6 amps with the VC inserted in the stock coil.
3x 18650 keeps me up for about 3 days with 60-80 cycles.
I am not using the BMS since I charge the individual cells but a BMS charger would be nice to keep it topped off. I know they are not the best of systems but if you remember to balance your cells every so often, it will work. Also avoid the one that has parasitic drain. Never liked that in a battery circuit.
Thanks for the info
I think that Im misunderstanding the whole amperage thing.
When designing a circuit, you want to guard against faults. When you have these high density cells in the circuit, you want to protect against its output. Hense heavy duty components related to the cells. A 10A board will work just as well but will get warmer. The excess rating of a BMS also helps maintain efficiency (less heat loss).
The circuit itself is a regulated circuit based on load. Changing the length of the coil wire by changing the ID or number or turns changes the circuit. I am not sure by how much yet, but the impedance of that wire is part of the equation. What I mean by regulated is not in the normal sense. This is a 'balanced' circuit. It just swings back and forth compensating for any metal in the area that might be generating eddy currents. Metal in the middle of the coil is the greatest influence obviously. This increases the power requirements (watts) to take on the extra 'load'. The reason I say watts is because the circuit allows for a wide input range but the power is close to fixed for a given circuit. So mine is fixed at 60 watts with the stainless steel M VC as a load. If I raise the voltage to 12V (from 10), the circuit would only draw 5 amps. However, at low cell voltage under load of 9 volts would draw 6.67 amps. I recommend a cheap battery meter so you know when you've dropped to 9V during heating. That should be your cutoff. I think the BMS will detect this and shut down if you still plan this route.
Hope that helps
Dude thank you!
Bought a cheapie multimeter today
This is gonna be fun
I can't believe Digikey is carrying these - https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=PRT-14313
I was thinking wiring it into the circuit but I use a remote meter that I test with on the 3rd day.
I'd recommend 18awg wire as a minimum. 16awg if you run longer wires.
Hi all. I'm trying to figure out if I should get the caldron or portside mini. I use the dynavap 80-85% of the time at home and the rest is portable use. I was wondering if the portside mini can be used in a desktop sense? Like just keep it in a fixed place and plug it in whenever I use it. In that way I could use it as a 'desktop' IH but also pick it up and go for the other 10% of the time.
But I'm thinking I'm missing something otherwise the caldron would be a bit redundant?
The problem with using a portable is the same as with a laptop PC. For home use, it generally gets plugged in and battery maintenance gets forgotten about. Then when you unplug to use on battery, it goes flat quickly.
Batteries like being used and not left to be continuously topped up. This shortens life dramatically.
The huge benefit of the Caldron is you can just plug in and forget about battery maintenance.
get one of each ... that’s what i ended up doing ... problem solved ...
Yeah that makes sense. I guess with good battery maintenance (not leaving it plugged in, letting the battery get used before recharging etc) it could be used at home.
Having both would be great but I think if I go for the mini for home and portable use, I can spring for the caldron at a later date
@Pipes is it better for the PSM battery health to run completely down before charging?
Basically following your conditioning instructions permanently?
Or should we charge when it gets low? Like 20-30%?
Li-ion batteries want to be charged when they drop below 3.6V with no load. For a 3S battery, that would be 10.8 volts. I don't know where that is on the PSM meter.
Once it's conditioned, it can be charged at any point of discharge. Always good to do complete discharge/charge cycles once in a while.
The main rule about these batteries is that they do not like being stored at either full or empty.
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