Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by midgetsanchez, Jun 8, 2015.
I think I’m gonna open a new RMA. My unit is definitely not getting as hot as I would like.
Be sweet if we could plug these into a computer and fix it that way. @newVaper420 my ti was super hot and always have consistent ndark brown abv. This ss is tan with hints of green. Some sequence of button push to turn up the heat??! That would be awesome
Hopper Labs is such a joke. Finally made a warranty request for the SS hopper I've been having problem after problem with and the guy actually has the nerve to ask me if I've tried a slower draw speed. (My problem is weak hits and flickering lights with a 100% known good battery)
If I wanted to take slow baby hits I wouldn't care about owning a grasshopper.
From their own website:
They are the worst of the worst.
Wow this is pretty insane.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Hopper Labs and reluctant star, the Grasshopper. You may now return to your regularly scheduled reality since everything with HL happens in an alternate universe. I’m convinced of this from everything I’ve read herein recently and several years ago - and the fact my pre-order Ti is in RMA for the first time. Not happy about it.
Ok I'm going to open an RMA. Let's see what happens :-).
After two years of almost daily use, my Ti has gone cop lights on me. Time to RMA. Thought I was going to be one of the lucky ones, but all good things come to an end it seems in hopperworld.
Bad things come to an end too! I received an email today, my two warranties from Dec 28th are in the final stages of testing. Slow progress is better than nothing, and having a hopper is the shit
Well, my hopper stopped working this morning. Red light, then off. I took everything out, gave it a bit, and it's working. Still not that hot. Haven't decided what I'm gonna do yet.
as someone said earlier, I wish we could plug the things in to diagnose them. As it is, it's hard to say how 'smart' the vape is, the algorithms it uses are a complete mystery. There's not a lot of space for circuitry, but there's definitely some controlling going on.
I'll say that my current unit is not completely depleting plant matter (I've only ever experienced the Sublimator and hoppers that have broken achieve this).
My ABV from the Hopper I can put in the Sub and get decent tokes off large chambers. Not really the same as having a fresh bowl by some margin, but, there's plenty of go left in the herb.
It's definitely not my preference - I don't typically re-use ABV and don't really have much desire to, and it is pretty annoying having to discard or bother to store partially deplete material.
But, the thing still rips. I haven't had a sub yet and I'm pretty damn baked off of one and a half chambers of Super Silver Haze from the hopper. And the thing is, I can almost always get more hits from chambers when I empty them.
The GH isn't really supposed to be able to deplete material and I knew this going in at the beginning. It's supposed to reach 210 C which is well below optimal vaping for my material wishes, but it's a great temp for the real reason of vaping which is a health conscious high.
I'm very interested to see how my fresh units coming back perform. How consistent will they all perform, what colour ABV and if any differences, how is the effect. Because as is, I'm very happy with the GH, but it's performing like I expected and it's not Sublimating.
The GH can come close, and I've used units that have basically done it, and combusted too, but it's still not the same thing. It gives a solid heavy hit like a true bong hit, but it's more sedative and less euphoric I have found. It's still nice to be able to dial it in though - but to be honest that's a malfunction in itself and all the units that have done it will break sooner than the units like ours, I am guessing*
albeit, I am forgetting you had interim light issues. I have seen my friends same-age-as-mine HT unit do this, but it was fine when I was using it for a month not long ago.
I gave it a serious clean though. It's key to have optimal current running through any electric vape. Oxidation is a big enemy causing electrical resistance, humidity and pressure all effect it. In a mild climate, I've only had so many issues (and I can admit that several issues have been self inflicted, but still warrantied and back then it was only weeks -__-)
I recently read a thing about a Nitecore product addressing high current batteries
Very relevant for hopper owners.
Back in the day, I recommended specifically and only Bostik Blu Tack for cleaning the back end threads. I read that tip from a flashlight/torch forum addressing titanium threading (still applies to all threads, esp. SS), oxidation and cleaning.
I personally recommend Bostik stuff, because that is the jam in Australia, it's a household item - and for good reason. All knock-off tacks that I have handled have been awfully inferior. Bostik make a product that is unlike anything I've seen anyone attempt. It is very good for cleaning the GH threads and it's what brought my friends GH back to life with when it was exhibiting potentially the same symptoms as newVaper420- but with obviously dirty threads. Not oxidised and powdered, but actually dirty. I'd certainly go as far as applying DeoxIT to the GH if the threads look clean and the performance is noticeably questionable
Ok, so now I'm buying a pack of original Bostick BluTack to see if it's really better than the german brand. As per my last posting here, the DeoxIt wipes did way much more for me than the german brand (not exactly an off-brand, made by Tesa, which is a Beiersdorf company) Tesa-tack did, but everything it takes to pamper Hoppy will be done.
If it's German, it could well be better. If so do report.
The blue tack is good, it doesn't leave noticeable residue and has minor smell. It's non-toxic and super tacky. I've used mainly lots of cheap imitation products, so an expensive alternative might not be so lacking in quality for sure. But the blu stuff is great, it cleaned up the air holes perfectly, as well as front end and back threads plus the inner threads of the main body too
Ok it’s working. But still not that hot. They gonna send me a new body. Let’s see. LOL.
I mean to be fair, I have been beating the hell out of my v5 body. Pocket all day, hits throughout the day. Full bowls at night, air and through water at 5. The thing is a monster. Hasn't skipped a beat yet. And I haven't combusted yet either, the abv is the exact colors I would expect. 5 gives a dark dark brown. 4 gives a mostly dark brown with some lighter shades. 3.5 gives me an even perfect brown same as my Mighty does at 185. So overall I'm happy at the moment. I have used Nitecore chargers and the charging cable. I've used the same battery for 2 weeks, and then did a week where I ran all the batteries dead and cycled. No blips no nothing. Just put battery in, fill bowl, click, hit, click, hit, repeat.
So there is SOMETHING right. I think @newVaper420 might have gotten was another v4 body. Because that is exactly what happened to my v4 bodies.
Supposedly my SS is a V5 and it runs pretty cool. Also get Blinky blue lights with a full battery unless I forget with the back end
my Ti is supposed to ship this week. So hopefully that new V5 body is running a bit hotter.
Miss my fully functional cloud monster
Sorry, my friend, but I have to question this statement. The ability of the GH to cash a load straight away, with appropriate AVB to show for it, is one of the main reasons many (most??) of us have put up with Hopper Labs at all.
My two GH now run cool after RMA and definitely do NOT cash my load and that's all on Level 5 on the temp dial....I actually think I'm getting better extraction with my little Fury 2.
I'm of the belief that it isn't about v4 vs v5, but rather manufacturing inconsistencies from unit to unit. That is what has been consistent.
I just emailed support asking what is the user fix for restricted draw, a condition that seems to plague all Hoppers, after a while they are never as easy drawing as when new or freshly serviced.
They answered me in 50 minutes:
"Using compressed air to blow out the device works well. Also make sure the front end screen is clean by soaking that part in ISO."
I admit that I haven't tried the air, but I will now. Could it be that easy?
Fair to question it, and in thinking about it it's become needlessly complex
I just mean along the lines of leaving reusable material. Vaping at 210 degrees is going to leave reusable material, going above this temp limits the practicality of reuse.
I like a 235 degree roast, and I've had hoppers achieve this, where the ABV is left super dark brown like from the sub, on the brink of combustion and toasted right the way through.
But temp 5 is supposed to be 210 degrees, which from what I learnt from using the Tubo, the StemPod and the EQ, 210 degrees is too low a setting and I'd generally aim higher.
Conduction vapes do low 200 temps better than convection IME, in terms of tanning the herb. But convection gets a better high from the rapid broad spectrum release. But it's not enough energy generally to properly smash the herb like the convection power of the flower pot, sublimator and similar surely can.
I also always noted that using the EQ, or other vapes mentioned and ones I've tried except for a few, there is so often inconsistency to the ABV and scorching was common. This means there is huge thermal gradient across the herb and inefficient vaporisation occurring. The Sub blasts right though chunks of flower, it's all the same colour once it's done. And it turns to dust n the fingers. The GH is the same, but it's golden and there's still some oil left, which has plenty more actives. Enough to worry about, perhaps.
Getting a consistent 210 I consider to be just tolerable, what's left is marginal enough for me.
What people were saying about the GH back when I pre-ordered in 2014 has played out as very true. And I agree with it, what the VaporizerWizard was saying in his review is what sold me, and it's all legit. Apart from the very real failure rate and RMA situation - struggle street.
I don't think the GH is meant to cash loads in one hit. It's original intention was a discreet multi hitter, and that's what it does best. It cashes loads in several hits that taper off. However, it hits hard enough to do the job full time. In some ways it's better going to higher temps, but in most ways it's not. I suppose. High temps are more impacting, and I much prefer destroyed herb being emptied from the vape, and not golden reusable ABV (as I don't reuse it). But I always have fresh green, so as long as the pen is working.. at 210 it's fine.
The GH can run cool, as in cooler than 210, and that's not good. But they have at times been released in batches where the temp was obviously higher than 210. And as good as that was, it has never ended well.
I'd say that 210 itself is cool, so it might not give optimum results in terms of yield efficiency if it's working for everyone. But it should deliver a nice high without effort, and it seems very efficient in most ways.
I don't have a Fury 2 to compare, but I imagine it has a more conduction effect occurring which would lend it to delivering a darker ABV. How do the highs compare?
It's hard to be unhappy with my ABV when I'm happy with the buzz, but I still am a little unhappy with the 210 limitation and prefer it when ... a quote from my warranty lodged Nov 21st arrived Dec 28th, due back in a month or so;
That chocolate brown ABV is what I like. And, I have a blonde ABV bowl in front of me.. The main thing is it's all the same colour, and it's been the same colour ever since I got it May 21. And it hits hard enough that I've been as happy with it since then.
I'm super curious how my other hoppers will be when they get here... 3 units should show some variance. The other HT unit I was using a while back got hotter than my unit - but get this - it ruined flavour and I opted for my own most often. I mainly used it for claisen hits and I could easily see that the other unit would pump out clouds sooner and reach ever slightly higher density by direct comparison. But, the hits without the terpenes is lacking, a solid 210 hit does the job. The Sub suffers at this temp, it only one hits bowls at 235, anything less is a two hit or more ordeal. One hit meaning depleting the chamber in less than 45 seconds. Watching the cloud peak, fade and clear. That is the ultimate vapour bong hit, and actually I've never seen a hopper do it. The hopper isn't so good at high temps compared to units designed for it, like the Sub. But the Hopper is awesome as a mid temp convection vape. The clouds it pumps out are quality and that's what matters.
@vapviking it's pretty easy to use compressed air to blast the new version units. They cool down a lot by doing this, so I'd advise a.) avoid burning yourself as it is small and fiddly and easy to do, and b.) avoid using the unit after blasting it, to avoid thermal shocking anything. Take out the battery and blast everything. I did this to the other HT after it got cough bonged a little badly. Water through the gills, seeping out of everywhere. No drama. Have seen awesome durability from these HT units. They're super, super nice.
I'll also note that I found a pic from May 22 of my GH PCB on my phone today, and I was taking a comparative pic out of interest earlier. There's a little bit of difference - the central pad is worn from the battery rotating, but everything else is all good. Even after being short circuited and heating up a whole bunch of times.
There's definitely some sealant going on on everything down around the chamber to keep residue/resin from getting everywhere and stuffing it up.
I was using straight BHO in the hopper a couple weeks back, and it was so amazing. Sooooo strong. Got a bunch of people super ripped, on top of tincture, bongs and vapes.
I haven't had to clean it as it all just evapped off. It got a little cloggy recently, so I scraped it out and got a dry q-tip in the chamber. scrubs up easily when warm. Super low maintenance vape, I just threw a couple of PFEs in a glass of metho this morning, and rinsed with hot water tonight. Clean as. So good.
Whoa, whoa, whoa. Nobody said anything previously about one hit. That’s a new factor in our discussion, yeah?
I still believe that GH should (and mine did) cash loads. That is, it should fully extract w the heat available to the unit.
Mine no longer do that. They run cold. My Mighty max out at 210c alsobut has not issues fully extracting, IMO.
Ah, was thinking that's what you meant by straight away, to which I decided I've never had a hopper extract straight away, unless you count one that was malfunctioning (temp too high).
With the hopper I've always had to do multiple tokes getting vapour for a good number of draws.
With minimal conduction, it's harder to heat soak the herb. The Mighty benefits from its conduction, but I prefer to hit the GH. I need to do multiple passes at 30 seconds a hit to get what I want out of my herb, which is perfect. With the sub it just requires 1 pass, but then it's not deplete. 1.5 tokes (or 1 huge hit) will produce the closest to deplete ABV possible, and the hopper can never match that.
I'm under the impression that 210 from the Mighty results in ABV that can still be made into tincture or edibles - so how deplete is it really? The GH should be able to cash loads as well as the Mighty but it shouldn't discolour to the same extent. Both won't deplete cannabinoids from the sample, nothing does. But both should perform satisfactorily, if not there's likely a problem. Problems aren't exactly rare with the hopper, so if it's not reaching 210 it'll need to be serviced
Ah, damn internet misunderstandings strike again! hahaha
Have a v5 ss body and ti unit coming in today or tomorrow got the notification that it was shipped yesterday. I’m only an hour from them so it should only be one day shipping. I will report back when I get them
I’ve used Deoxit on the backend but quit using it because it never seemed to help much.
Deoxit is safe for electrical connections but a fairly nasty chemical, so I would be very careful using it on the front end, or anywhere in the airpath. I would probably follow with a couple wipes from a slightly damp cloth. Maybe even an iso wipe and another water wipe after that to be safe. And of course give everything plenty of time to dry out before using again.
I do use a 3M version of blutack to clean the threads, but only two to three times a year. The Ti is always dirtier than my SS from oxidation.
My fixes resource is meant to temporarily restore functionality in emergency situations. Desperate times call for desperate measures after all.
Only Hopper Labs can truly fix a broken Grasshopper.
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