THCMuscle
Well-Known Member
Rick said:
That is a shame about the SS lined wood stems. I absolutely love them, especially my newest one!
I am half inlined to just keep my Redwood as is, it does produce vapor nicely, just doesnt darken ABV nearly as much as my other two. However I must say I almost prefer the slightly cooler temps. I feel that my Locust RZ is a bit TOO hard hitting. It creates huge clouds that are rather irritating to the lungs.
I have noticed that both my new Sumac and my Redwood have a SLIGHTLY loose heater. If I lightly shake the units vertically I can hear a slight wobble. I cant detect any movement when a stem is inserted and force applied side-to-side, so its not any kind of functional problem. If the units are plugged in and heated up the looseness goes away and they completely snug-up, I presume this is due to the heater expanding slightly. Is it possible for me to remove the bottom leather and tighten the two screws holding in the heater? Like I said this is far from a functional problem so I'd never ask for any kind of warranty maintenance, however the perfectionist inside me wants to make these babies as snug and tight as they were when they came off the 'zap line.
Vapemania
Member
Rick said:
Thanks for those pics.
I'm not clued up on engineering, so am very interested to know how things work.
So hope you don't mind me asking some pretty basic questions!
From your pic, it seems the old design had a metal sheath, grooved heavy-metal core with thick wings, and a small tube on top.
There are no washers.
The new CRZ however has:
ceramic sheath (not metal), ungrooved light-metal core with thin wings, two ceramic inserts, and the tube on top.
Also, no washers.
Is this correct?
You've no doubt mentioned this already at great length!
But I was hoping to avoid reading 289 pages of a very popular thread!
Thanks, Zapman.
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
sorry.....double post
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
No. It is not a "light-metal"core, it is a solid stainless steel core. And, there are no washers other than the one at the top and bottom to seal the air path.
Rick answered your questions when he posted his pic:
So, the "old" SS heatport and the "new" SS heatport are the same, with the exception of the SS "wings", or washers.
Vapemania
Member
THCMuscle said:
Yes, I agree.
And I've just found out about them too!
Of course, if you own one, then it makes the stem far more valuable.
The log vape market is constantly changing, it seems.
And that's after years of the log vape triad (PD, MZ, WZ) staying static!
We live in interesting times! Lol!
Rick
Zapman
mom is correct on the heatports. The 'old' solid SS heatport is the same as the new one internally. The newest version, designed to insulate the SS from the wood above, below and in the middle(and used in all CRZs) simply has a top and bottom washer added for centering the heatport in the wood and securing the insulation. The top and bottom rings(wings) are actually custom made, as are all parts in our SS heatport assembly. Every piece is also machined to fit each other piece precisely. Then it is all welded together, held with precise jigs built for that purpose only. This is real TIG welding with no added SS material. All parts are then electro polished, a process that makes the SS surface shiny and bright by removing ferrous metal molecules from the surface of the SS. They are then professionally cleaned, rinsed and dried. The center core is turned on a computer controlled lathe from solid SS. The vaping air goes down around the outside of that core(and inside the SS sleeve) and back up through the middle, around the ceramic heater and up through the stem tip contents to the user.
No SS lined stems is not cast in stone here at Zapville. The initial response was not what we expected. Much of that was my fault for the way I put them up on the website, very amateurish. The cost of producing these stems in quantity is much higher than a wood only stem. Very tricky to get the mouth side end just right, all the time. We will take another look at that project if we hear some significant interest develop.
THCMuscle, feel free to peel off the bottom leather and cardboard bottom cover to tighten the two screws that hold the heatport assembly in place. Be advised of the following before you start:
You may have to use other material to re-cover the bottom and re-trim. We use Elmers wood glue to hold the leather to the bottom and sometimes the leather will not come off in one piece. Same with the cardboard plug, no biggee. Use whatever you want to re-cover the bottom.
With the unit upside down on a firm but protected surface, tap on the SS washer(see bottom pic on page 288) all around lightly using a screwdriver and small hammer. That SS washer is too close on spec for the wood hole diameter so it does not 'float' in the wood as it should. Once the unit heats, the SS washer tends to stick in the wood because it is such a close fit.
THEN GENTLY tighten the two screws. There is a fine line of putting too much torque on the screwdriver(small phillips) which can tear the screw out of the wood. There is also the wood shell to consider as if you screw that screw in too far, it will pop out the outside of the wood, a big No NO.
We are finding the softer Redwood units can get a slight rattle which is easily fixed by tightening the two bottom screws. The softer wood will expand/contract more than the hard woods. Sometimes a little tighter with the screw on one side works better than even pressure all around.
When I re-stock those bottom washers, I will get the outer dimension down just a little which will let it 'float' in the wood as it should.
WE WILL DO THIS PROFESSIONALLY AT ZAPVILLE for any customer at no charge but you have to pay shipping to us.
The heatport pic on page 288 shows the pieces on the left and those pieces welded together on the right(purple background pic)
No SS lined stems is not cast in stone here at Zapville. The initial response was not what we expected. Much of that was my fault for the way I put them up on the website, very amateurish. The cost of producing these stems in quantity is much higher than a wood only stem. Very tricky to get the mouth side end just right, all the time. We will take another look at that project if we hear some significant interest develop.
THCMuscle, feel free to peel off the bottom leather and cardboard bottom cover to tighten the two screws that hold the heatport assembly in place. Be advised of the following before you start:
You may have to use other material to re-cover the bottom and re-trim. We use Elmers wood glue to hold the leather to the bottom and sometimes the leather will not come off in one piece. Same with the cardboard plug, no biggee. Use whatever you want to re-cover the bottom.
With the unit upside down on a firm but protected surface, tap on the SS washer(see bottom pic on page 288) all around lightly using a screwdriver and small hammer. That SS washer is too close on spec for the wood hole diameter so it does not 'float' in the wood as it should. Once the unit heats, the SS washer tends to stick in the wood because it is such a close fit.
THEN GENTLY tighten the two screws. There is a fine line of putting too much torque on the screwdriver(small phillips) which can tear the screw out of the wood. There is also the wood shell to consider as if you screw that screw in too far, it will pop out the outside of the wood, a big No NO.
We are finding the softer Redwood units can get a slight rattle which is easily fixed by tightening the two bottom screws. The softer wood will expand/contract more than the hard woods. Sometimes a little tighter with the screw on one side works better than even pressure all around.
When I re-stock those bottom washers, I will get the outer dimension down just a little which will let it 'float' in the wood as it should.
WE WILL DO THIS PROFESSIONALLY AT ZAPVILLE for any customer at no charge but you have to pay shipping to us.
The heatport pic on page 288 shows the pieces on the left and those pieces welded together on the right(purple background pic)
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Oh reece, you got a Sumo similar to mine! 
I love mine and am sure you will love yours too. The colors in the grain are just fantastic.
I love mine and am sure you will love yours too. The colors in the grain are just fantastic.
Vapemania
Member
Rick said:
Ah, I see.
So internally the heatport is unchanged.
But externally, the old heatport was grooved.
Also, the wings, top and bottom, were thicker on the old model.
Is this correct?
I'm just going by the pics, but is the old heatport also heavier?
Yes, I think I read one log vape maker say that the heatports are out-sourced.
They are made by a separate company.
Is this correct?
This would be convenient because then a metal-working company can pass the heatport to a wood-working entrepreneur for finishing.
Would that be so?
Also, is it the same company providing the heatports to all the log vape manufacturers?
Wow, I didn't realise the airpath in the heatport was so complex.
Nice!
Rick
Zapman
Vapemeister
You should look a bit closer and read the words. I am not going to try to re-explain the heatport thing but your last post has it wrong on grooves, weight, etc.
Our heatports are made by a separate company that specializes in SS fabrication, that is correct.
As far as I know, they are only made for us and that will not change.
The vapor airpath is not complex and is very similar to other log vapes. Ambient air in through the top, down and around the same heater and back up through the stem tip contents. Some of us use a mass of SS in the heatport assembly and some do not. We like the heated mass of our electro polished SS heatport because we think it makes for consistent smooth vapor production.
You should look a bit closer and read the words. I am not going to try to re-explain the heatport thing but your last post has it wrong on grooves, weight, etc.
Our heatports are made by a separate company that specializes in SS fabrication, that is correct.
As far as I know, they are only made for us and that will not change.
The vapor airpath is not complex and is very similar to other log vapes. Ambient air in through the top, down and around the same heater and back up through the stem tip contents. Some of us use a mass of SS in the heatport assembly and some do not. We like the heated mass of our electro polished SS heatport because we think it makes for consistent smooth vapor production.
collegerower
Well-Known Member
Some great zaps reece and Go!!bot. I have had a sweet spot for Reeces zap. Good to see it went to someone around here.
Rick,
Now that you are getting your hands dirty again, do you plan on spinning more "Out on a Limb" pieces in the future? Are they more difficult to spin/finish?
Rick,
Now that you are getting your hands dirty again, do you plan on spinning more "Out on a Limb" pieces in the future? Are they more difficult to spin/finish?
I just wanted to chime in and give a shout out to Rick for letting us have such a great vaporizer - we are quite satisfied.
I also have a DBV, but my RockZap absolutely blows it away.
I wanted to share a hitting technique that I have found draws constant, massive hits.
As I take my milkshake-like hit, I pulse in a slightly faster draw. Usually around one pulse per second.
It's just a short, slightly quicker intake for a brief moment, then back to normal, repeat as long as desired.
I noticed some people a while back having differential results with their hits, try this method out. I love it.
P.S: For reference we grind until it's really fine, here. I also pack small bowls for maximum airflow - method is simple, I just do a single scoop into the dish and pack it down lightly with the wooden tool.
I also have a DBV, but my RockZap absolutely blows it away.
I wanted to share a hitting technique that I have found draws constant, massive hits.
As I take my milkshake-like hit, I pulse in a slightly faster draw. Usually around one pulse per second.
It's just a short, slightly quicker intake for a brief moment, then back to normal, repeat as long as desired.
I noticed some people a while back having differential results with their hits, try this method out. I love it.
P.S: For reference we grind until it's really fine, here. I also pack small bowls for maximum airflow - method is simple, I just do a single scoop into the dish and pack it down lightly with the wooden tool.
JESUSgotNAILED
Well-Known Member
Hello all. Figured I'd drop a line, I'm always around just sometimes have no drive to post.
My Redwood is doing better than ever. Freight train powerful is a term I've experienced a lot lately. My way of loading the stem and just overrall usage of it has gotten better and with that, better results! I love how it's an almost constant learning process. Well, I'm sure one reaches a point where they have pretty much mastered everything to do with vaping with a Zap but I am nowhere close lol...
The couple friends I got absolutely love the Zap now, after a few sessions total now and because of my new inline bubbler for it. It's the beez neez! Very happy that they and I like vaping with it sooooo much.
Speaking of rattles, my Redwood does have that now but it is very very minimal to me. I only notice it if I am deliberatly shaking my Zap up and down or side to side, and I am damn near positive it's just the whole heat engine/heater. No little bits running around or anything. It doesn't bother me - the Zap has been bonked around on various things a few times but nothing serious. I'm sure it'll be fine.
Have a good night all!
My Redwood is doing better than ever. Freight train powerful is a term I've experienced a lot lately. My way of loading the stem and just overrall usage of it has gotten better and with that, better results! I love how it's an almost constant learning process. Well, I'm sure one reaches a point where they have pretty much mastered everything to do with vaping with a Zap but I am nowhere close lol...
The couple friends I got absolutely love the Zap now, after a few sessions total now and because of my new inline bubbler for it. It's the beez neez! Very happy that they and I like vaping with it sooooo much.
Speaking of rattles, my Redwood does have that now but it is very very minimal to me. I only notice it if I am deliberatly shaking my Zap up and down or side to side, and I am damn near positive it's just the whole heat engine/heater. No little bits running around or anything. It doesn't bother me - the Zap has been bonked around on various things a few times but nothing serious. I'm sure it'll be fine.
Have a good night all!
SD_haze
Well-Known Member
I'll chime in on the rattles.
My CRZ is roughly 4 months old and has been plugged in 99.9% of the time since getting it.
Absolutely no rattles to report
Its had a decent amount of falls and bumps to boot, being on my nightstand.
Luckily most of those falls have been on carpet.
My CRZ is roughly 4 months old and has been plugged in 99.9% of the time since getting it.
Absolutely no rattles to report
Its had a decent amount of falls and bumps to boot, being on my nightstand.
Luckily most of those falls have been on carpet.
THCMuscle
Well-Known Member
I opened up my Redwood today to see if I could tighten out the SLIGHT rattle I was able to achieve by forcefully shaking the zap. I was very curious to find that the bottom of the zap is directly connected with the air path? Funny, I never knew. It was a bit odd seeing light through the bottom coming up through the screen.
I found a few little tiny bits of Abv that I presume made their way through the rather coarse screen on the heat port. I tightened the heat port screws very cautiously, and yet the rattle remained. I gave everything a nice dusting off then closed her back up. It was very very easy and pretty cool to finally see inside one of these zaps. I was easily able to glue the suade bottom back on perfectly so you can't tell it was ever removed.
The rattle on my zaps is so subtle, I decided to not worry about it. It doesn't effect function what so ever, and you can't get the heat port to move a millimeter by applying weird forces to a stem while inserted. Since no charring has been detected on disected zaps I doubt this looseness will worsen, I believe it to be normal on most zaps. It's simply a lack of PERFECT tension on those two screws. Which is very understandable, give these are hand made art pieces constructed out of various ORGANIC medias of varying density and strength. Not to mention intense 24/7 internal heat and daily ambient temperature change.
I found a few little tiny bits of Abv that I presume made their way through the rather coarse screen on the heat port. I tightened the heat port screws very cautiously, and yet the rattle remained. I gave everything a nice dusting off then closed her back up. It was very very easy and pretty cool to finally see inside one of these zaps. I was easily able to glue the suade bottom back on perfectly so you can't tell it was ever removed.
The rattle on my zaps is so subtle, I decided to not worry about it. It doesn't effect function what so ever, and you can't get the heat port to move a millimeter by applying weird forces to a stem while inserted. Since no charring has been detected on disected zaps I doubt this looseness will worsen, I believe it to be normal on most zaps. It's simply a lack of PERFECT tension on those two screws. Which is very understandable, give these are hand made art pieces constructed out of various ORGANIC medias of varying density and strength. Not to mention intense 24/7 internal heat and daily ambient temperature change.
Nycdeisel
Well-Known Member
You really only get a rattling if you let it go cold. Which personally I would never let happen as long as I have power here.
So happy you and your buddies dig the zap and inline combo, i honestly cant think of a better piece of glass to go with the RockZap! I sort of want a new piece of glass, but im so satisfied by my headford inline im almost hesitant to get anything else! Its a funny feeling.
Jesus, funny you say that. I thought I had reached that point and what do you know, I learned some new things about the zap process! I say theres always room for improvement and that people are always learning. Knowledge is power!
So happy you and your buddies dig the zap and inline combo, i honestly cant think of a better piece of glass to go with the RockZap! I sort of want a new piece of glass, but im so satisfied by my headford inline im almost hesitant to get anything else! Its a funny feeling.
THCMuscle
Well-Known Member
Nycdeisel said:You really only get a rattling if you let it go cold. Which personally I would never let happen as long as I have power here.
Jesus, funny you say that. I thought I had reached that point and what do you know, I learned some new things about the zap process! I say theres always room for improvement and that people are always learning. Knowledge is power!
So happy you and your buddies dig the zap and inline combo, i honestly cant think of a better piece of glass to go with the RockZap! I sort of want a new piece of glass, but im so satisfied by my headford inline im almost hesitant to get anything else! Its a funny feeling.
Very true! All of my zaps tighten up perfectly snug when heated.
Here are a few pictures of my new Sumac. I really love this piece, I've been polishing it like crazy.
It fits the hand perfectly. Bravo Rick!