Vapemania
Member
THCMuscle said:
I find the workings of the RZ rather confusing.
The top pf the device shows air inlet holes.
I picture it like this: when the user breathes in through the stem, outside air goes through the air inlet holes on the top of the vape. The air hits the top ceramic insert, and flows across and down into the log.
The air is outside the heat port.
The suction from the user forces the air down and onto the lower ceramic insert.
The air flows around that insert and then goes into the heatport through the hole of the lower insert.
The air then increases in temp inside the heatport, and then rises up through the stem to the user.
However, if there is also a ceramic sheath, then the air goes down the air inlet hole at the top of the zap, around the top ceramic insert, down the ceramic sheath, around the bottom ceramic insert, and up into the heatport through the hole.
If this is so, then the log is acting as an air chamber for the air coming in.
But this won't be possible if there is a ceramic sheath fitting the heatport snugly into place inside the log.
For the air to go around the ceramic sheath, there must be space between the ceramic sheath and the inner wood of the log.
But this would mean that the heatport doesn't fit so snugly in the log.
Of course, this problem will be eliminated if there isn't a ceramic sheath.
God, my mind is about to explode.
Any help from the blades out there will be welcome!!
(Hopefully after they've had a few tokes of the good stuff!)
If you removed the suede and could see through the hole of the lower ceramic insert, into the heatport and the light at the other end, then that would mean the suede is in the airpath (exactly as you say).
TBH, that's absolutely no problem for me.
After smoking for many years and putting a lot of crap in my lungs, the microscopic dust from bison leather is nothing, believe me!
My only worry is that leather is porous, and thus over time, the leather may become worn around the area covering the hole of the lower ceramic insert.
However, I'm sure there are seasoned Zap owners who will be able to give better info on this.
If there is a ceramic sheath, then I imagine the heatport will only rattle up-and-down (not sideways).
If the heatport rattles sideways (and that's if it really is the heatport), then I have no idea what may be causing the rattle.
Great post though dude!
I think I'll have another toke now!
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Vapemeister, if you are confused, I would suggest you go back and reread the numerous explanations that have been given you. Stop expecting everyone else to do your homework for you. It gets old. 
Rick
Zapman
Vapemeister, I will try again. That's part of my job and lots of us assume all the noobs will just figure it out with a few words. I think one problem may be that the pic of the heatport, purple background, page 288 I believe, is of 2 completed heatports(without wings). One is disassembled and one is welded together. That could be confusing.
As soon as the user puts negative pressure on the vapor stem(sucks), the vape air movement goes into action. Outside ambient air is pulled through the top 4 little holes at the top of the heatport. That air then enters Stainless steel and is ONLY in contact with SS til the air leaves the stem tip contents as vapor and goes through the stem to the user. It moves down along the ridged center core and inside the SS sleeve til it hits the bottom of the machined center core, then it makes a U turn and goes straight up the big hole in the middle, past the ceramic heater, through the top screen and into the stem tip contents. The air does not contact wood or ceramic or any insulation with the exception of the first ambient air flowing across the top ceramic insulator inside circumference to get to the 4 small holes.
THCMuscle, your removal of the bottom and exam of your Redheads private parts was great as you exposed the simplicity of it all. That bottom hole where the heater is installed is left open for the reason you observed. If any small specks of green matter fall through the top screen, they will go all the way to the bottom wood chamber and not get hung up in the SS heatport to eventually restrict the airflow. We originally plugged that hole with a cotton ball but stopped that practice early in the game. On occasion the plug would go in too deep and restrict the airflow through the heatport but letting debris drop to the bottom was our main focus.
This will be hard for some of you to understand but that bottom chamber, even with an open center hole for the heater IS SEPARATE FROM THE VAPE AIRFLOW. Air in the bottom chamber does not enter the airflow during normal use because the bottom chamber is air tight. You can only suck air if air can enter the chamber you are sucking from. So when you suck on a stem, the only air you get is coming through those top four small holes. No air from the bottom chamber because it is sealed. Air is like water, electricity, etc. It will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. The bottom air chamber has no air flowing through it.
That bottom leather has cardboard under it so there are no leather fumes, etc. (if there is such a thing).
Put a hose with a Y on it so it will suck from two buckets at the same time. One bucket is sealed tight, no air can enter. The other bucket has air holes for air to enter. Which bucket will the air come from when you suck on the hose?
Nuff on that one but I will try harder if still needed.
THC, that is a beauty Sumac and one of the first turned by Zapman. THC got a transformer with his that buzzes, the first I have ever heard of that. A brand new DC trans at that. He should be able to get another from Jameco and we will send him one today.
Rattles do seem to be minor but we want them eliminated if at all possible. I still say the bottom SS washer that the screws wedge against is too tight in the wood so it does not want to move once the wood is heated. Also the very slight noise is the heater barely moving in the center tube.
As soon as the user puts negative pressure on the vapor stem(sucks), the vape air movement goes into action. Outside ambient air is pulled through the top 4 little holes at the top of the heatport. That air then enters Stainless steel and is ONLY in contact with SS til the air leaves the stem tip contents as vapor and goes through the stem to the user. It moves down along the ridged center core and inside the SS sleeve til it hits the bottom of the machined center core, then it makes a U turn and goes straight up the big hole in the middle, past the ceramic heater, through the top screen and into the stem tip contents. The air does not contact wood or ceramic or any insulation with the exception of the first ambient air flowing across the top ceramic insulator inside circumference to get to the 4 small holes.
THCMuscle, your removal of the bottom and exam of your Redheads private parts was great as you exposed the simplicity of it all. That bottom hole where the heater is installed is left open for the reason you observed. If any small specks of green matter fall through the top screen, they will go all the way to the bottom wood chamber and not get hung up in the SS heatport to eventually restrict the airflow. We originally plugged that hole with a cotton ball but stopped that practice early in the game. On occasion the plug would go in too deep and restrict the airflow through the heatport but letting debris drop to the bottom was our main focus.
This will be hard for some of you to understand but that bottom chamber, even with an open center hole for the heater IS SEPARATE FROM THE VAPE AIRFLOW. Air in the bottom chamber does not enter the airflow during normal use because the bottom chamber is air tight. You can only suck air if air can enter the chamber you are sucking from. So when you suck on a stem, the only air you get is coming through those top four small holes. No air from the bottom chamber because it is sealed. Air is like water, electricity, etc. It will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. The bottom air chamber has no air flowing through it.
That bottom leather has cardboard under it so there are no leather fumes, etc. (if there is such a thing).
Put a hose with a Y on it so it will suck from two buckets at the same time. One bucket is sealed tight, no air can enter. The other bucket has air holes for air to enter. Which bucket will the air come from when you suck on the hose?
Nuff on that one but I will try harder if still needed.
THC, that is a beauty Sumac and one of the first turned by Zapman. THC got a transformer with his that buzzes, the first I have ever heard of that. A brand new DC trans at that. He should be able to get another from Jameco and we will send him one today.
Rattles do seem to be minor but we want them eliminated if at all possible. I still say the bottom SS washer that the screws wedge against is too tight in the wood so it does not want to move once the wood is heated. Also the very slight noise is the heater barely moving in the center tube.
Rick
Zapman
Magic9
Haven't heard from you in awhile. I'll send you a plug kit to make the job even easier than I described in the past as I recall.
Plug the green plug that comes with the kit into the Zap(no wire hooked to the green plug) and measure across the two terminals on the plug with the ohmmeter set on ohms. You should get very close to 20 ohms for a reading. Under 20 will run a little cooler, over 20 a little warmer. Resistance will vary with the temp of the unit. A hot unit will read higher resistance, 21+ ohms often.
We are not opening shit up in here. It's the private parts we are looking at.
Haven't heard from you in awhile. I'll send you a plug kit to make the job even easier than I described in the past as I recall.
Plug the green plug that comes with the kit into the Zap(no wire hooked to the green plug) and measure across the two terminals on the plug with the ohmmeter set on ohms. You should get very close to 20 ohms for a reading. Under 20 will run a little cooler, over 20 a little warmer. Resistance will vary with the temp of the unit. A hot unit will read higher resistance, 21+ ohms often.
We are not opening shit up in here. It's the private parts we are looking at.
Vapemania
Member
Rick said:
That's an excellent description.
Thanks for your patience, I really do appreciate it.
Your pic of the heatport (purple background) is of the old model, I believe.
The new CRZ does not show 4 air inlet holes on the top wing. This is what's confusing me.
Also, the upper ceramic insert, which is placed above the top wing, also doesn't have 4 air inlet holes.
So how does the air go into the heatport?
The old heatport is placed inside a SS sheath and welded together. This will help to make the sheathed unit airtight.
However, the CRZ has a heatport with ceramic upper and lower inserts which are then placed into a log which has a fixed ceramic sheath inside (which we cannot see).
Of course, ceramic cannot be welded, but I assume the ceramic inserts and ceramic sheath work together to create a more superior insulater.
Albert Hofmann
Convicted vapist
Rick, thanx for the tip about the plug kit for the ohmmeter test. I'm pretty sure that Dad has an ohmmeter in the shop somewhere. I have a couple of those repair plugs that I got from you awhile back, so I think I'll test out sumo just to satisfy my own curiosity.
Oh, and please reconsider the whole wood stem idea. I would buy matching stems for both my zaps if they were made available!
Oh, and please reconsider the whole wood stem idea. I would buy matching stems for both my zaps if they were made available!
This is not correct. The lower the resistance, the more current will flow through the resistor.Rick said:
Higher current = higher wattage = higher temperatures.
Ohm's Law: Current (Amps) = Voltage (Volts) / Resistance (Ohms)
At 12V, a 20? resistor will pull 0.6A which is 7.2W
A 21? resistor will pull 0.57A which is 6.86W
Rick
Zapman
Vapemeister
Look again at the group shot, top view. You will see the four small holes for air intake in that shot. The four air inlet holes are in the top of EVERY CRZ, around the center 'tower' with the hole for the vapor stem.
The insulating blanket around the middle of the heatport is in a sealed compartment, SS on 3 sides and wood on the outside. The insulating blanket has not yet been shown in my pictures. I guarantee it does exist and is in every CRZ.
You are still missing something if you think the airflow is any different between the CRZ and our first SS heatports, installed directly in the wood with no insulation.
Think I am done trying to explain this one. I have made clear factual statements yet for some reason we are not getting through to you on the vape airflow in our product. You do seem to be the only one not getting how the vape air flows in a CRZ.
Magic9, please confirm via Email your shipping address. Your orders were under a different name as I recall.
edit: hazy
The heater is the resistor. More resistance will make more heat. That is my understanding anyway but I could be wrong. And when a unit reads higher ohms it does run hotter is our experience. I appreciate your ohms law information. Can you tell us if there should be any difference in AC vs DC going into the heater?
Look again at the group shot, top view. You will see the four small holes for air intake in that shot. The four air inlet holes are in the top of EVERY CRZ, around the center 'tower' with the hole for the vapor stem.
The insulating blanket around the middle of the heatport is in a sealed compartment, SS on 3 sides and wood on the outside. The insulating blanket has not yet been shown in my pictures. I guarantee it does exist and is in every CRZ.
You are still missing something if you think the airflow is any different between the CRZ and our first SS heatports, installed directly in the wood with no insulation.
Think I am done trying to explain this one. I have made clear factual statements yet for some reason we are not getting through to you on the vape airflow in our product. You do seem to be the only one not getting how the vape air flows in a CRZ.
Magic9, please confirm via Email your shipping address. Your orders were under a different name as I recall.
edit: hazy
The heater is the resistor. More resistance will make more heat. That is my understanding anyway but I could be wrong. And when a unit reads higher ohms it does run hotter is our experience. I appreciate your ohms law information. Can you tell us if there should be any difference in AC vs DC going into the heater?
Albert Hofmann
Convicted vapist
hazy, I think by "A hot unit will read higher" Rick meant hot, as in, warmed up to operating temp. I don't think he was refering to a unit that runs hot. But then again, I am often wrong.hazy said:
Magic9
Plant Enthusiast
Here is the top view of my AM
And here are my Zaps and some Blackberry Kush I can't touch yet ( piss test coming).
Vapemeister, I have used a PD and a CRZ, and I have no issues using the CRZ. The PD (acquired in a trade) had a shitty air path. You could clearly taste the wood. After a hit or two, that taste made me paranoid. I know you are on the fence about which log to get, but there is no downside to this one. All my opinion, of course.
Edit* For clarity (I hope).
And here are my Zaps and some Blackberry Kush I can't touch yet ( piss test coming).
Vapemeister, I have used a PD and a CRZ, and I have no issues using the CRZ. The PD (acquired in a trade) had a shitty air path. You could clearly taste the wood. After a hit or two, that taste made me paranoid. I know you are on the fence about which log to get, but there is no downside to this one. All my opinion, of course.
Edit* For clarity (I hope).
cluffy
Vaker
I tested my freshly unplugged CRZ with an ohmmeter and got almost 21 ohms. I'm not gonna let it cool down because it isn't worth it to me to know the difference. 
According to my trusty(?) Kill A Watt the unit draws 9 watts. That's about 6.5 kWh per month, not bad at all. I think Rick said it best a while ago that the best temperature test is to take a toke with it.
Anyway, my main purpose for posting today is that I found this pic that made me think of Nycdeisel and I wasn't sure where to post it. Here ya go, I'm sure many here will get a kick out of it! :
According to my trusty(?) Kill A Watt the unit draws 9 watts. That's about 6.5 kWh per month, not bad at all. I think Rick said it best a while ago that the best temperature test is to take a toke with it. Anyway, my main purpose for posting today is that I found this pic that made me think of Nycdeisel and I wasn't sure where to post it. Here ya go, I'm sure many here will get a kick out of it! :
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
cluffy, that's a good one. Magic9, you've got more willpower than I do. That second pic sent me straight to my Zap.
Vapemania
Member
Rick said:
I don't think you quite followed my questions.
However, I've done a little investigation and now have all the answers I need.
Calm down, Rick.
Everything's fine.
There won't be any more questions on how the CRZ works.
All the answers have been found.
Also, a good guiding principle to consider is if one person asks how a thing works, then there are probably another 10 who think the same.
They're just not sending the posts.
But they do read the posts.
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Thank you Wat! I've thought so ever since his first post. Glad I'm not the only one! 
sublimeluvr
Well-Known Member
Wait wait. Vapemeister is melmouth?? Now it makes sense.
WatTyler
Revolting Peasant
momofthegoons said:
Ahhh, me too!
I had it on his second post back here, followed by a denial. I felt bad at first for voicing my thought, but the frustration seems to be returning
Can someone verify that this is the RockZap? It says Ceramic, but calls it Aromazap......
link to blissSville
link to blissSville
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Yes, this is a Rockzap. Blisssville is an authorized dealer.
reece
Well-Known Member
Vapemeister said:
I think he understood, and answered your questions.
1 example:
Vapemeister said:
Rick said:
I see no indication of Rick not being calm. A little annoyed, probably. I also do not see any reason for the warning. Rick has been helpful in answering your questions. He has even repeated himself, trying to be more clear for you. So let them read the posts. Nothing to hide here.
Sometimes the simplest concepts elude me. I can be a bit annoying because I honestly am not getting it. Maybe that is what is happening here. When I eventually get it, I wonder how it is I didn't grasp it before.
MaquinaVapor
Maluco Beleza
Hi Folks
I finally quite smoking! Got my rockzap this Monday and enjoying it a lot! Thanks to Vitolo who made the effort of shipping it to Australia!
I'm running it using a power converter 230-110V, but I going to buy an Aussie power adapter and I've seem three potential options (3 different currents - 1A, 1.5A and 2A).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-DC-Po..._Travel_Acc&hash=item4cf0954f5c#ht_940wt_1163
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-...tDomain_15&hash=item20b753596c#ht_1045wt_1163
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-...tDomain_15&hash=item20b753596c#ht_1045wt_1163
I imagine that with more current I might reach higher temperatures and also heat it up faster, am I correct? However, what's the maximum current we can supply to a rockzap? the standard power supply is 1A.
Cheers!
I finally quite smoking! Got my rockzap this Monday and enjoying it a lot! Thanks to Vitolo who made the effort of shipping it to Australia!
I'm running it using a power converter 230-110V, but I going to buy an Aussie power adapter and I've seem three potential options (3 different currents - 1A, 1.5A and 2A).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-DC-Po..._Travel_Acc&hash=item4cf0954f5c#ht_940wt_1163
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-...tDomain_15&hash=item20b753596c#ht_1045wt_1163
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-12V-...tDomain_15&hash=item20b753596c#ht_1045wt_1163
I imagine that with more current I might reach higher temperatures and also heat it up faster, am I correct? However, what's the maximum current we can supply to a rockzap? the standard power supply is 1A.
Cheers!