FlashVAPE

[OF]

One reason it may be conducting electricity better now (if that truly is the case as it seems to be) is because I now have no need for any non-conductive grease impeding electron flow.

No, that's not how electrons work. If it's better (and I suspect it's not really) it is only because you now have more metal to metal contact. Any gap big enough to hold any grease would stop the electrons anyway, they're really kinda bitty you know.

My guess is as the threads got eaten away less and less was making contact (your unit was degrading from stock). Well done (and we've no reason to think otherwise) threads are designed to have maximum direct metal to metal contact......which is why they're used for such applications.

If other systems worked better they'd be used instead.

OF

 

[kelper]

No, that's not how electrons work. If it's better (and I suspect it's not really) it is only because you now have more metal to metal contact. Any gap big enough to hold any grease would stop the electrons anyway, they're really kinda bitty you know.

My guess is as the threads got eaten away less and less was making contact (your unit was degrading from stock). Well done (and we've no reason to think otherwise) threads are designed to have maximum direct metal to metal contact......which is why they're used for such applications.

If other systems worked better they'd be use instead.

OF

I never felt my unit was degrading from stock in terms of electron flow, although if that were the case then that is another problem with the non-anodized threads constantly shedding metal. And I agree if it is better now as it "seems" to be, then that is probably due to increased metal-to-metal contact as I originally stated. Good point about a gap big enough to hold grease is not in contact anyway (sarcasm diminished my appreciation of it however).

Again, I do love the FV but I am not going to blow smoke up the readers asses when I believe there is a real issue. I get no freebies so I feel unencumbered giving the unvarnished truth.

 

[JoeKickass]

For delicate threads, or expensive things I really don't want to strip, I like to gently hold the screw/cap against the threads and turn the opposite way (don't screw it on) until you hear and feel the the screw/cap fall down off the end of the threads.

At that point you know you can start screwing it in and the threads are lined up every time!

 

[kelper]

For delicate threads, or expensive things I really don't want to strip, I like to gently hold the screw/cap against the threads and turn the opposite way (don't screw it on) until you hear and feel the the screw/cap fall down off the end of the threads.

At that point you know you can start screwing it in and the threads are lined up every time!

That's a good way to do it JKA, but again i feel the problem is not with cross-threading but the fact that the threads are non-anodized (for a good reason) which leads to the debris in the threads issue.

 

[JoeKickass]

That's a good way to do it JKA, but again i feel the problem is not with cross-threading but the fact that the threads are non-anodized (for a good reason) which leads to the debris in the threads issue.

Yeah I like Super Lube (funny name lol) but I still have to wipe and reapply every few weeks because it does get dirty (starts clear, ends up black)

But like you said they're heavy duty threads and we use them so much, they really need something to protect them from each other

 

[kelper]

btw, the threads are soft enough that they flatten out easily when filing. This helps with the metal-to-metal contact. I used a flat file for the male threads and a small round file for the female threads. Be like a good dentist fitting a crown and test the fit repeatedly.

 

[OF]

I never felt my unit was degrading from stock in terms of electron flow, although if that were the case then that is another problem with the non-anodized threads constantly shedding metal. And I agree if it is better now as it "seems" to be, then that is probably due to increased metal-to-metal contact as I originally stated. Good point about a gap big enough to hold grease is not in contact anyway (sarcasm diminished my appreciation of it however).

Again, I do love the FV but I am not going to blow smoke up the readers asses when I believe there is a real issue. I get no freebies so I feel unencumbered giving the unvarnished truth.

If you look back, the subject was "One reason it may be conducting electricity better now (if that truly is the case as it seems to be) is because I now have no need for any non-conductive grease impeding electron flow."

I hope you can understand how I linked "conducting electricity" with electron flow. I agree I was having a bit of fun with the itty bitty electrons idea, but that's all it is.... The important part is the point got across, or so you say.

I'm sure the "going to blow smoke up the readers asses" doesn't relate to me, please feel free to correct me on that. IMO nobody's covering anything up, please correct me on that as well? I'm trying to tell the well settled engineering and science behind what I understand is happening and trying (unsuccessfully it seems) to point out much of the disagreement we seem to be having about the design is not supported by your contentions. Which is cool. I think we've both made our points. If it's a serious enough problem it will push it's way to the top of the list without my help. Or yours.

We can always revisit the 'should have been better designed' issue when/if we have more to work on?

Thanks.

OF

 

[Dr. Yan-I-Tor]

After reading through the most recent posts.....


As an individual who's most experience with this sort of threading is looking at my mag light flashlight and thinking it'd be a wonderful way to clobber someone, I'm not entirely sure I follow what must be done, with regards to maintainence, with the threading. I gather that there is in fact a lube applied to the threading upon receiving a unit. Is the standard procedure to leave the stuff be until I start noticing that turning the cap is no longer happening very smoothly? Then clean/relube?

 

[OF]

After reading through the most recent posts.....


As an individual who's most experience with this sort of threading is looking at my mag light flashlight and thinking it'd be a wonderful way to clobber someone, I'm not entirely sure I follow what must be done, with regards to maintainence, with the threading. I gather that there is in fact a lube applied to the threading upon receiving a unit. Is the standard procedure to leave the stuff be until I start noticing that turning the cap is no longer happening very smoothly? Then clean/relube?

Yup, that's the general advice. I guess most guys have a favorite lube by now?

I'm not sure it's a great club, but I guess better than a joint or blunt?

OF

 

[Dr. Yan-I-Tor]

Yup, that's the general advice.

I'm not sure it's a great club, but I guess better than a joint or blunt?

OF

Thanks! And I was talking about my big maglight flashlight being cudgel-like lol. I actually haven't gotten my FV yet, although judging by the tracking number it ought to show up sometime this week

 

[Vapzilla]

I got mine the last week of December 2012 and have also been very careful with the threads. Cleaning them with a paper towel every few days or so. Today I put a dab or two of wax on them and they feel so much better, thanks for that tip OF, I think it's the ticket for me.
I just received my S2 kit Saturday and have only used it twice. I haven't removed the spacer, but after 2 bowls it still looks to be in one piece. As of now, I can only see removing it for a good cleaning as I won't be switching it back to conduction!
Now it may be just me, may be my mood, could be the way the stars were aligned
But both of these sessions have gotten me totally satisfied. I guess what I'm trying to say is with every other portable vape I ever used, I find that shortly after I still have the need/want those big hits and buzz that my SSV gives me.
I've always tried to not compare any portables to say an SSV or table model for their obvious differences. Not anymore, this FV stage 2 has got all the power that one can handle!
The only negative I have to report is that my S2 charger is defective. I'll send them an email and I'm sure they'll take care of it. Luckily I have an Ultrafire that's doing the charging job just fine.

 

[JoeKickass]

So I don't want people to think I dance around in a little tutu waving a fairy wand, but contrary to my optimistic first impression, I keep combusting with my s2

I think part of my issue might be my aw 1600mah, not the standard FV s2 battery, and it can get the screen glowing red and stable after about 5s. Is that faster than normal?

I preheat from 2 to 4 seconds and then inhale pretty fast, but my window from faint wisps to combustion is literally the third to fifth second... I thought I remembered something about long pre-heats and slow draws but is that really possible? My setup certainly doesn't seem as combustion-resistant as everyone else's

 

[OF]

JKA,

Try hitting on it before you hit the magic button and see. I don't have mine handy and am in no condition to be testing even so, but I think that's how I did it?

OF

 

[Pipes]

I think part of my issue might be my aw 1600mah, not the standard FV s2 battery, and it can get the screen glowing red and stable after about 5s. Is that faster than normal?

I preheat from 2 to 4 seconds and then inhale pretty fast, but my window from faint wisps to combustion is literally the third to fifth second... I thought I remembered something about long pre-heats and slow draws but is that really possible? My setup certainly doesn't seem as combustion-resistant as everyone else's

Yeah, I also found that happens when I use my IMR batteries. Have to start the draw a little earlier. They don't last as long though. And they seem temperamental as they tend to deliver more in the first couple seconds of pushing the button. ?
Perhaps OF could expand the explanation.

EDIT: Man he's fast. Must be Sunday....and I'm slow

 

[Vapzilla]

So I don't want people to think I dance around in a little tutu waving a fairy wand, but contrary to my optimistic first impression, I keep combusting with my s2

I think part of my issue might be my aw 1600mah, not the standard FV s2 battery, and it can get the screen glowing red and stable after about 5s. Is that faster than normal?

I preheat from 2 to 4 seconds and then inhale pretty fast, but my window from faint wisps to combustion is literally the third to fifth second... I thought I remembered something about long pre-heats and slow draws but is that really possible? My setup certainly doesn't seem as combustion-resistant as everyone else's

I hold the power on for 4-5 seconds, then start a slow LB style pull for 5-10 seconds, release the button and pull for a few more seconds to clear the chamber.
Only 2 bowls so far, nicely toasted dark brown with no combustion.
Are you the one that has had combustion problems before the S2? I know someone had, can't remember if it was you. If so, I do think there may be a problem with your unit. Seems as if it runs hotter then the rest.

 

[kelper]

If you look back, the subject was "One reason it may be conducting electricity better now (if that truly is the case as it seems to be) is because I now have no need for any non-conductive grease impeding electron flow."

I hope you can understand how I linked "conducting electricity" with electron flow. I agree I was having a bit of fun with the itty bitty electrons idea, but that's all it is.... The important part is the point got across, or so you say.

I'm sure the "going to blow smoke up the readers asses" doesn't relate to me, please feel free to correct me on that. IMO nobody's covering anything up, please correct me on that as well? I'm trying to tell the well settled engineering and science behind what I understand is happening and trying (unsuccessfully it seems) to point out much of the disagreement we seem to be having about the design is not supported by your contentions. Which is cool. I think we've both made our points. If it's a serious enough problem it will push it's way to the top of the list without my help. Or yours.

We can always revisit the 'should have been better designed' issue when/if we have more to work on?

Thanks.

OF

I don't think there is a conspiracy here to cover anything up. But if I rolled over and agreed that there is no problem when I believe there is one, I would be blowing smoke up the collective arse. The FV is great but it is no disservice to point out future improvements to the design. That's what makes all the voices important - a little peon like me could stumble across a real issue and want to throw his FV through the wall one late night. And here I vent.

 

[Chill Dude]

Yup, that's the general advice. I guess most guys have a favorite lube by now?

I'm not sure it's a great club, but I guess better than a joint or blunt?

OF

After reading through the most recent posts.....


As an individual who's most experience with this sort of threading is looking at my mag light flashlight and thinking it'd be a wonderful way to clobber someone, I'm not entirely sure I follow what must be done, with regards to maintainence, with the threading. I gather that there is in fact a lube applied to the threading upon receiving a unit. Is the standard procedure to leave the stuff be until I start noticing that turning the cap is no longer happening very smoothly? Then clean/relube?

I'm with you Dr. Yan, although im a college educated guy, I do not have an engineering background. In fact, my tool collection consists of a screwdriver set and a socket set and maybe a can of WD40 laying around somewhere. The most complicated home maintenance I perform is replacing light bulbs LOL. I'm not interested in electron flow, electricity conduction etc. the last few posts have been fairly confusing to me. Its starting to sound like the Cera thread where people were stuffing tin foil or pieces of a metal hanger in their units, making their own switches etc. I believe the majority of people, just want a vape they can open up and immediately use to right away. Now, back to the FV threading issue. We have heard several ideas from using various lubes, to using steel wool to filing down the threads. I'm certainly no expert, but it seems filing the threads if done incorrectly could certainly damage them. It seems to me the the most prudent course of action is an easy one. As FV stated simply apply olive oil to the threads on an occasional basis. See how easy that is!! After all, he is the manufacturer.....

Edit: the above is actually my post. Idk why it came out that way??

As to the S2 breaking issue, I have faith that FV will do what ever it takes to rectify the situation, and if necessary, redesign the S2 insert. I believe the Flashvape will be an awesome device!

I'm still waiting for my FVS2 Vape to arrive, should get it by Tuesday. I can't wait to FV a solid workout and report back to you guys!!


Edit: the above is actually Chill Dude's post as well...

mod note: You posted inside the QUOTE tags. Fixed.

 

[JoeKickass]

I hold the power on for 4-5 seconds, then start a slow LB style pull for 5-10 seconds, release the button and pull for a few more seconds to clear the chamber.
Only 2 bowls so far, nicely toasted dark brown with no combustion.
Are you the one that has had combustion problems before the S2? I know someone had, can't remember if it was you. If so, I do think there may be a problem with your unit. Seems as if it runs hotter then the rest.

Hehe yup probably me, and I do think you might be right but that's one problem I'm willing to live with. It does seem to suggest mine is low resistance if both versions seem hot...

But I got the 3.2v down after a few weeks and it would be sweet to have this power and work out a technique to keep the charring away

 

[Pipes]

I want to clarify my earlier statement regarding the use of steel wool. I was in no way trying to remove the threads. My problem was severe binding at one point and managed to use penetrating oil to work it free. This was caused by my own negligence in not cleaning the threads when they first started to have stiff spots and a little grinding feel. The use of steel wool was to clear away any imperfections caused by my removing the cap forcefully bit by bit. It was only moving a small amount as I stated but would move a small amount more each twist until I got it off. It would not go back on in a smooth fashion, hence the steel wool.
Now that I'm aware of this materials make-up and downfalls, I maintain it by cleaning the grooves out and a dab of lube. If not in a hurry going around the grooves with a toothpick does a dandy job too.

Pipes

 

[Chill Dude]

Hehe yup probably me, and I do think you might be right but that's one problem I'm willing to live with. It does seem to suggest mine is low resistance if both versions seem hot...

But I got the 3.2v down after a few weeks and it would be sweet to have this power and work out a technique to keep the charring away

Yeah, I agree your unit does appear to be running excessively hot. I remember Pak saying that with the S2 3.7s, he could actually hold the button down for 12 seconds w/o even inhaling and he didn't notice any evidence of combustion....

I want to clarify my earlier statement regarding the use of steel wool. I was in no way trying to remove the threads. My problem was severe binding at one point and managed to use penetrating oil to work it free. This was caused by my own negligence in not cleaning the threads when they first started to have stiff spots and a little grinding feel. The use of steel wool was to clear away any imperfections caused by my removing the cap forcefully bit by bit. It was only moving a small amount as I stated but would move a small amount more each twist until I got it off. It would not go back on in a smooth fashion, hence the steel wool.
Now that I'm aware of this materials make-up and downfalls, I maintain it by cleaning the grooves out and a dab of lube. If not in a hurry going around the grooves with a toothpick does a dandy job too.

Pipes

Hey Pipes, I wasn't trying to infer that using steel wool is a bad idea or any thing. My point was that filing or steel wool on the
threads could cause damage to the threads If you do it incorrectly or too much. Guys like you and OF who understand vaporizer electronics and mechanics can mess with things more than the average guy like me who might totally fuck up the threading... that's all...

mod note: Please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead, and try to stay outside the QUOTE tags. Two posts merged.

 

[Pipes]

Hey Pipes, I wasn't trying to infer that using steel wool is a bad idea or any thing. My point was that filing or steel wool on the
threads could cause damage to the threads If you do it incorrectly or too much. Guys like you and OF who understand vaporizer electronics and mechanics can mess with things more than the average guy like me who might totally fuck up the threading... that's all...

No need to explain, actually you are correct in the fact that some might interpret it that way. And steel wool can cause damage if not careful and focused on moving just along the threads to clean any burrs and smooth over any nicks. Not as a regular thing but more of one desperately trying to get the thread action as smooth as possible. Now that it's completely smooth, normal maintenance kicks in.

Also, although you might think I know what I'm doing......much is trial and error. Generally heavy on both.

 

[pakalolo]

Again, I do love the FV but I am not going to blow smoke up the readers asses when I believe there is a real issue. I get no freebies so I feel unencumbered giving the unvarnished truth.

This is out of line. You are implying that anyone who gets a unit for beta testing will cover up or lie when there is a real issue. As someone who has participated in several beta tests, I take that personally. You do not have an exclusive claim to the unvarnished truth just because you paid for your device. You have just slurred many of the most respected members of FC (that's why they get asked to be beta testers) and all of the moderators. A public apology is in order.

As for your problems, I can sympathize with the despair of someone whose FV has just been ruined. There have been one or two other reports of grittiness in the threads, but as far as I can tell these are exceptions not the general rule. I got one of the first FVs and I agreed to be a beta tester for the S2 kit right at the beginning. As a result, I'm pretty sure that almost no one outside of FlashVAPE has unscrewed and screwed the battery cap more than I have. It was never gritty and in fact, one of the first things that impressed me about the FV was how smoothly it screwed together. I've never cleaned mine, and it feels just as slick and smooth as the day I got it. I wasn't even aware of the need for lubrication, so I just examined mine under a magnifier for evidence of damage. I can see a few rough edges that might not have been there when I got it, therefore I will be lubing it from now on.

 

[kelper]

This is out of line. You are implying that anyone who gets a unit for beta testing will cover up or lie when their is a real issue. As someone who has participated in several beta tests, I take that personally. You do not have an exclusive claim to the unvarnished truth just because you paid for your device. You have just slurred many of the most respected members of FC (that's why they get asked to be beta testers) and all of the moderators. A public apology is in order.

As for your problems, I can sympathize with the despair of someone whose FV has just been ruined. There have been one or two other reports of grittiness in the threads, but as far as I can tell these are exceptions not the general rule. I got one of the first FVs and I agreed to be a beta tester for the S2 kit right at the beginning. As a result, I'm pretty sure that almost no one outside of FlashVAPE has unscrewed and screwed the battery cap more than I have. It was never gritty and in fact, one of the first things that impressed me about the FV was how smoothly it screwed together. I've never cleaned mine, and it feels just as slick and smooth as the day I got it. I wasn't even aware of the need for lubrication, so I just examined mine under a magnifier for evidence of damage. I can see a few rough edges that might not have been there when I got it, therefore I will be lubing it from now on.

Not saying that anyone who gets a unit for beta testing will cover up or lie when their is a real issue. However, the reason Consumer Reports is valued is because they take no compensation from the companies they review. Also, Amazon Vine reviewers are commonly ridiculed because they seem so over-the-top in the pocket of their freebie providers. CNET now is also tarnished for playing favorites. Perception is critical when giving reviews, so I am stating out front I get no freebies. Those that get freebies may or may not be compromised, but with me there is no worry - not even the chance somebody bought my integrity. The way review journalism usually works among the respected outlets is that the reviewer has to return the test item after they finish the review.

 

[Stu]

Those that get freebies may or may not be compromised, but with me there is no worry - not even the chance somebody bought my integrity.

The implication of the word "may" is still offensive IMO.

 

[kelper]

The implication of the word "may" is still offensive IMO.

"May" is the truth - sorry you find it offensive. It also may not apply to anyone here. How do I know?