diandiandian
Member
Guys, I try to use the GH with Herbalizer steam roller. It's amazing.
I realized the nitcore charger is not a perfect fit, it's normal? Using the nitcore intelligent i2 #2016 model.
So do I need to set the output voltage anything, or just insert the battery in and let it do its work. I see there is 3.7v 4.2 4.35v, if I use 4.2v what will happen? Sorry for weird questionPersonally I use the xTar VC2 but I know a lot of people use the Nitecore's (i2 + i4) and are happy with them.
Actually I've stopped using my VC2 and now tend to just leave my hopper on the OEM charger.
So do I need to set the output voltage anything, or just insert the battery in and let it do its work. I see there is 3.7v 4.2 4.35v, if I use 4.2v what will happen? Sorry for weird question
Personally I use the xTar VC2 but I know a lot of people use the Nitecore's (i2 + i4) and are happy with them.
Actually I've stopped using my VC2 and now tend to just leave my hopper on the OEM charger.
bare in mind that the usb charger "fully charges" the battety, whereas nitecore allows a small kinda buffer.. I've never seen 4.2V after a full charge with my nitecore D4.. I also haven't used my usb charger.. ever so far.. So in the long term, I'm not sure that charging your batteries to their limits is a good idea. Many people have complained for shorter battery life spans after some time. Maybe they were using the usb charger..
I'm sure that other fellow FCers will enlighten us once again with some battery juicy info!!
Regarding overcharging, remember the batteries were made by HL, so was the OEM charger, in my mind following the manufacturer's exact recommended process seems to get me the best results.
The Hopper’s battery is a custom designed lithium-ion cell. The size and shape are non-standard, which you might find annoying. We chose to go this route to maximize the size of the battery without making the device any bigger. The Hopper was designed to be small, and there wasn’t a standard size that fit our parameters.
It is a fact that increased charging rate causes more degradation to the battery chemicals potential. However the extent that it affects the life span is unmeasured for the hoppers batteries, but the rated charge cycle is already quite bad.I think the only thing you can change is the rate at which the Nitecore charges (I believe 300mah or 500mAh). I personally don't believe it makes any difference as to the longevity or health of the hoppers batteries which setting you go for, others disagree. All I can tell you is the OEM charger runs at 500mAh.
I believe it was @MoltenTiger or @biohacker that noted how topping the batteries off with the OEM charger for 5-10mins before hitting it gave them a better experience. I'm not 100% sure but I think this is because the OEM charger pushes for a charge target of 4.25v which gives just that little extra kick for a huge cloudy initial hit.
Yeah that's it, $35 a year is my expected battery budget.I must agree that they only cost $7 and you can have several rotating..
It's also worth pointing out that the OEM charger doesn't charge at a constant current as previously assumed, but has been measured to fluctuate up to a 1.2A rate.
Constant current charging at this rate is worse than occasional peaks, but it's also worth being aware of this.
Thanks for testing, I should have referenced your reddit post.So I was the user who posted that video on reddit. I tried my hopper in another port that is capable of up to 3 amps output and found the my hoppers OEM charger will fluctuate up to 2 amps at times. Towards the end of the charging cycle the battery charges up to 1.65 ish amps. Point is, it's much high than the 500 mA rating I've seen people post.
Yeah that's totally normal, it's caused by the PWM (pulse width modulation) in the circuitry and is apparently one meaning/reason behind the name change from Zen Pen to GrasshopperI'm sorry for posting so many questions but I just noticed my hopper makes buzzing clicking noises. Perhaps this was always the case and finally caught my attention but is this normal? I haven't come across any postings of this on this thread, maybe I missed it? It's pretty loud now that I hear it, much more so than the buzzing of the IQ or Pax
This is just a standard temp spectrum for normal/safe operation of Li-ion batteries.The hopper lab said don't vape below 32 and above 90.
Clicking is normal though it will be louder and softer at different times.I'm sorry for posting so many questions but I just noticed my hopper makes buzzing clicking noises. Perhaps this was always the case and finally caught my attention but is this normal? I haven't come across any postings of this on this thread, maybe I missed it? It's pretty loud now that I hear it, much more so than the buzzing of the IQ or Pax
I've never seen 4.2V after a full charge with my nitecore D4
The batteries cost HL $5, so for $7 HL is being pretty kind
That's weird, i've never NOT seen 4.2v after a full charge with my D4, and that goes for both GHB1 and GHB2 batteries. I usually throw them on there around 3.8v give or take.
Every charging option works and is viable, some methods will simply cost more.
It's going to be less than $100 difference so who cares?
Some might, so they may as well see the facts.
I prefer bud in my jars to wasting money on shitty charges and shitty batteries, so far it's been over $100 for me on both those things. That's about all I'd change in my hopper life, pocket that money and rock the Xtar from the get go
There must be a reason that the D4 doesn't fill them up to the top.
What are you testing the 4.2V with? A separate meter or the charger's built-in meter? My Nitecore D2 always says 4.20 too, but haven't checked them yet on a separate meter ... maybe I'll do that today ...That's weird, i've never NOT seen 4.2v after a full charge with my D4, and that goes for both GHB1 and GHB2 batteries. I usually throw them on there around 3.8v give or take.
Yeah, for now!