XVape XLUX ROFFU

[hinglemccringleberry]

So to clarify, the tube that slips over the Roffu heater loosening over time, is that only an issue if you turn the unit upside down with the cover off? It doesn't affect functionality of the vape in any way, right? It sounds like it would affect the ability to adjust the distance of the bowl from the heater like some people were doing. But if you're not worried about that, then this issue is just an annoyance, not a dealbreaker for using the vape?

 

[Petetbay]

So to clarify, the tube that slips over the Roffu heater loosening over time, is that only an issue if you turn the unit upside down with the cover off?

Yes, only then you can no longer turn upside down with CU off, it will drop off.

It doesn't affect functionality of the vape in any way, right?

No, works as usual.

It sounds like it would affect the ability to adjust the distance of the bowl from the heater like some people were doing.

No, has no effect on doing this the filter above the heater still adjusts the same.

But if you're not worried about that, then this issue is just an annoyance, not a dealbreaker for using the vape?

Yes, annoyance, not a deal breaker, just a safety hazard when debowling when hot, but for me this makes me not want to use the OG tube as a easy repeatable method. The JoDa Glassware stem in my CU works as usual as the stem is cooler to remove and debowl and makes no difference, still need a poker to debowl.

 

[RustyOldNail]

It doesn't affect functionality of the vape in any way, right?

It also acts as an AIR SEAL. This part of the device was not well thought out. Any oring on a device has to be user replaceable.

 

[Petetbay]

It also acts as an AIR SEAL.

Possibly, but it’s a dead end and under vacuum when drawing. I wouldn’t think it could have much effect.
‘edit: the downward pressure of the CU silicone grommet /screen on the bowl should limit any air entry at the bowl base(not a easy path)

This part of the device was not well thought out. Any oring on a device has to be user replaceable.

Very true, I still not sure it was a oring unless there’s a indentation to keep it in place, more of a shim would seem be more feasible. More prerelease testing should be done with a solution before release, sorry Xvape.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Possibly, but it’s a dead end and under vacuum when drawing. I wouldn’t think it could have much effect.

Perhaps, but air usually finds it way, without a proper seal…..

 

[LesPlenty]

not having the spare orings that some got I tried a oring off the steel screen/filter and that didn’t work.

I tried that oven disc o-ring yesterday, I thought I better as I had been recommending it to others and it does not work and may be the reason for the hold-up of a simple fix.

Very true, I still not sure it was a oring unless there’s a indentation to keep it in place,

I could not find any indent and I also believe it was a shim type of setup, like a short piece of very thin hose.

More prerelease testing should be done with a solution before release, sorry Xvape.

Brand-new release units can have teething problems that do not show up until well after production and many bowls.

Perhaps, but air usually finds it way, without a proper seal…..

I cannot see/feel any difference between my units and prefer the loose oven-fit unit myself.
The problem is still being worked on but I have no new news on the eta of a fix at this time.

 

[VaPeD&CoNfUsEd]

Yeah I don’t think the oring is that big of a deal either. Tons of log vapes out there that work perfectly fine without an airtight seal at the heater. As long as the heater is powerful enough (which the roffus is pretty powerful for a portable) it should work ok. I would think worse case scenario if your oring wears out you might have to bump ur temps up a few degrees for the same result. Just my .

 

[Petetbay]

As far as I’m concerned it’s fixed with the parchment paper hack, just need to perfect it for longevity, already got a couple different replacements ready to go when needed. I would just make sure you use unwaxed parchment paper, the stuff I’m using is from shatter packaging.

 

[Mad_Max]

As far as I’m concerned it’s fixed with the parchment paper hack, just need to perfect it for longevity, already got a couple different replacements ready to go when needed. I would just make sure you use unwaxed parchment paper, the stuff I’m using is from shatter packaging.

What does your p paper hack look like, could you show a picture?

 

[Petetbay]

What does your p paper hack look like, could you show a picture?

No pics, maybe when it’s perfected. It’s simple I cut 3/8” x 3” strip of p paper and wrapped around a pen thinner than the heater to shape the paper in a circle, put it around the heater did around 2 1/2 wraps around the heater, try keep it tight around the heater(tricky) and slide the glass over paper/heater trying to get the paper inside the tube and push it down and it will probably scrunch up the paper, doesn’t matter the paper will bunch up at the bottom forming the shim at the bottom. Works good for me and have did about 10 bowls already. Next try when this wears out, folding the paper then wrapping around a couple times. There’s all types options in how you wrap the paper around the heater, like decreasing the paper width so it wraps in a spiral so the bottom is the thickest. It’s like being back in the millwright shop rebuilding valves.

I wouldn’t do this if it’s still working normally and make sure it clear by running a pin around the bottom.

 

[hinglemccringleberry]

^i would think that aluminum foil would be an even better material to do this with and may be a bit easier to work with?

 

[Madtater]

Are these “loose bowl” hacks really necessary?

Seems like a lot of work instead of just being a little extra careful with the glass bowl.

 

[Mad_Max]

Are these “loose bowl” hacks really necessary?

Seems like a lot of work instead if just being a little extra careful with the glass bowl.

Stoners are creative people! You can't stop them from hacking.

 

[Petetbay]

^i would think that aluminum foil would be an even better material to do this with and may be a bit easier to work with?

The steel tube might be ok, but the glass needs to expand so the material should be able to absorb the expansion, that is why it can’t be too tight especially for the glass. The repeated insertion might chew up the foil as well especially the steel, I thought about aluminum, but p paper is pretty inert. Even with paper you don’t want it too tight, just enough to keep it in reliably.

 

[LesPlenty]

Are these “loose bowl” hacks really necessary?

No, but as said some like to tinker, a hack might get you going until a proper fix. I just came back from camping again and found the easiest way to empty a bowl is to simply blow across the top of a full, spent oven. I don't usually keep Roffu ABV as it is pretty well wrung out of goodies the way I vape with it.

 

[Petetbay]

I still not sure it was a oring unless there’s a indentation to keep it in place, more of a shim would seem be more feasible.

I could not find any indent and I also believe it was a shim type of setup, like a short piece of very thin hose.

I found part of the missing oring and it’s thinner the metal screen oring, but is very soft and sponge like, maybe a neoprene oring, don’t know if there is hitemp neoprene.

 

[LeftBased]

Did an experiment with the roffu.
No comparisons, just pure experiment.
Took a 90% indica, packed the quartz chamber.
I switched from session to on demand, I set target temp to 383°f, I hold the power button (so heater preheats) as it hits the target temp and stops flashing the heat symbol, I do a nice slow to medium inhale, tasting initial terps, continue for about 8 more puffs doing same thing start to notice a harsh burnt toast/popcorn flavor, I stop.

Examine the abv and it's well extracted not black abv, but dark toast any bright greens have vanished from the duff, trichomes are gone of course, see some tiny stalks without glands.

Initially was surprised how efficient it was, I felt by not holding down the heater button (after it hits target temp), I get smoother inhales, I used to hold down the heat (power) button when I would inhale on demand mode (after it was preheated). I feel confident that this newly discovered method works great for me.

Of course extraction was faster without having to do 8 second inhales. As the temp gauge shows from red to green, so each preheat inhale I watched the guage drop, and it seems like it helps to control the dosage, so it does feel efficient. The THC headrush was there for a moment as the rest of cannabinoids played catch up, body high potent. Super heavy indica almost like smoking a piece of temple ball hashish.

Satisfying results for medical usage. Recreational users may not care for the body high or think it's too extreme. I notice younger crowd gravitates towards the sativa's, while some veterans go either way but preferably indica and hybrids. I know the subtypes may not matter as much except that stuff labeled indica has to have a higher amount of myrcene or something.

Terpenes do matter, and you do get most of them fast extraction at higher temps in the Xlux Roffu. I like high temps for the fast extraction / heavy hitting cannabinoids boiling off into the vapor.

At low and medium temps I still got the THC and some cannabinoids much slower because I would take longer inhales, eventually the abv became like dark brownish or medium dark brownish. While 383°f seems like a heavy hitting sweet spot.

Above 365°f is racy for sativa's (THC headrush almost too much, cannabis tremors galore); I much rather vape at 330°~356°f for sativa dominants, As for indica leaning hybrids and indicas their potential is resting between 374°~383°f in the vape.

One could just do 390°f and call it a day.

 

[Shit Snacks]

 

[Petetbay]

not having the spare orings that some got I tried a oring off the steel screen/filter and that didn’t work.

Well apparently this stoner doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Found the missing orings(2) along with a spare filter grommet w/4 screens stuck in the small box that had USB-C cable in it.

 

[billyfitz]

As an on-demand, modest-dose, convection enjoyer, I found this thread and ordered from XVape about midday Wednesday ("jingle" coupon worked!), USPS received it by 5:30pm and it arrived Friday mid afternoon to the opposite side of the US. Prompt shipping from XVape, and good work by USPS. Happy Weekend To Me.

Burning off the heater gave disappointingly nasty smells that thankfully became less intense. The first load tasted mildly tainted but I'm optimistic it'll become neutral. I've had a Grasshopper and Firewood 5 that show it's possible to have no odor from day 1 so I'm slightly disappointed (but not surprised from what I read here).

Generally I'm very impressed, apart from slightly obtuse controls and a flashy but uninspired and minimally useful display. I've missed having something that uniformly toasts its load since my Grasshopper died, and this seems a lot better than the GH in almost every other way. The Firewood is almost great, but the large ceramics he persists with are a huge heat sink and mean only the center gets toasted. This shrinks the FW's effective load size significantly from its total, and it needs frequent stirring. As a result the Roffu packs much more of a punch on similar loads, and surprisingly seems even cooler/smoother.

I like a multi-chamber / cartridge type setup and the dosing caps work great. Getting the lids off is a PITA finger-nail destroyer, but the gripper end of the stirring tool built into the Roffu is a good tool for the job. I removed the pre and post screens as I'm using caps only.

So marks off for the off-gassing smelly heater (and possibly too much silicon), overly fiddly interface, non-optional, simplistic but flashy bright display, but a great device assuming the vapor becomes neutral. It seems to do a great job of quality controlled vaporizing and it has a premium feel. Powerful heating, quality even toasting, effective cooling and smooth vapor for my direct use. Great value.

Couple of technical observations:

Out of curiosity I weighed the glass and metal chambers (no screens) and found out they will take almost identical energy to heat up - 1.50 Joules/K for the steel, 1.43J/K for the glass. However, as steel conducts over 60x faster than glass, that's the key difference there and I'm not sure this information clarifies anything any better than experimentation:

material	weight (g)	J/kg.K	J/K
Stainless Steel	3.2	468	1.4976
Glass	1.8	792	1.4256

I plugged it into a Lenovo laptop charger that can do 20V and it happily stuck to 5V and 960mA, so under 1A, so I don't know what the concern is that led to the instruction to limit which chargers to use.

 

[Mad_Max]

As an on-demand, modest-dose, convection enjoyer, I found this thread and ordered from XVape about midday Wednesday ("jingle" coupon worked!), USPS received it by 5:30pm and it arrived Friday mid afternoon to the opposite side of the US. Prompt shipping from XVape, and good work by USPS. Happy Weekend To Me.

Burning off the heater gave disappointingly nasty smells that thankfully became less intense. The first load tasted mildly tainted but I'm optimistic it'll become neutral. I've had a Grasshopper and Firewood 5 that show it's possible to have no odor from day 1 so I'm slightly disappointed (but not surprised from what I read here).

Generally I'm very impressed, apart from slightly obtuse controls and a flashy but uninspired and minimally useful display. I've missed having something that uniformly toasts its load since my Grasshopper died, and this seems a lot better than the GH in almost every other way. The Firewood is almost great, but the large ceramics he persists with are a huge heat sink and mean only the center gets toasted. This shrinks the FW's effective load size significantly from its total, and it needs frequent stirring. As a result the Roffu packs much more of a punch on similar loads, and surprisingly seems even cooler/smoother.

I like a multi-chamber / cartridge type setup and the dosing caps work great. Getting the lids off is a PITA finger-nail destroyer, but the gripper end of the stirring tool built into the Roffu is a good tool for the job. I removed the pre and post screens as I'm using caps only.

So marks off for the off-gassing smelly heater (and possibly too much silicon), overly fiddly interface, non-optional, simplistic but flashy bright display, but a great device assuming the vapor becomes neutral. It seems to do a great job of quality controlled vaporizing and it has a premium feel. Powerful heating, quality even toasting, effective cooling and smooth vapor for my direct use. Great value.

Couple of technical observations:

Out of curiosity I weighed the glass and metal chambers (no screens) and found out they will take almost identical energy to heat up - 1.50 Joules/K for the steel, 1.43J/K for the glass. However, as steel conducts over 60x faster than glass, that's the key difference there and I'm not sure this information clarifies anything any better than experimentation:

material	weight (g)	J/kg.K	J/K
Stainless Steel	3.2	468	1.4976
Glass	1.8	792	1.4256

I plugged it into a Lenovo laptop charger that can do 20V and it happily stuck to 5V and 960mA, so under 1A, so I don't know what the concern is that led to the instruction to limit which chargers to use.

The large silicone piece in the mouthpiece stinks REAL bad! I cooked it at 150F about 10 times or more for 3-5 minutes each time.

 

[billyfitz]

The large silicone piece in the mouthpiece stinks REAL bad! I cooked it at 150F about 10 times or more for 3-5 minutes each time.

Hmmm, I hadn't noticed the silicone smelling but I can just about detect an odor if I take it out and sniff it directly (I usually think I'm pretty sensitive to these things - my wife thinks I make it up). I feel like most of what I got was directly was from burning off the heater. I've seen people talk about improperly cured silicone before - I wouldn't be surprised if that varied quite a bit between manufactured batches. Still, next time the oven is hot I may bake the silicone parts a bit for good measure.

 

[LesPlenty]

Still, next time the oven is hot I may bake the silicone parts a bit for good measure.

Nice initial review @billyfitz.
Sun curing the cooling unit silicon while not in use helps negate the smell and extra burn-off cycles without the mouthpiece on helps to cure the heater post silicon.
That said the best flavour for me is to use a WPA on a j-hook with glass oven and no capsule, I save the cooling unit mouthpiece and caps for when out and about duties are needed.

 

[Mad_Max]

Hmmm, I hadn't noticed the silicone smelling but I can just about detect an odor if I take it out and sniff it directly (I usually think I'm pretty sensitive to these things - my wife thinks I make it up). I feel like most of what I got was directly was from burning off the heater. I've seen people talk about improperly cured silicone before - I wouldn't be surprised if that varied quite a bit between manufactured batches. Still, next time the oven is hot I may bake the silicone parts a bit for good measure.

You heat that up to 100 F and then there will be no mistaking it. It reminded me of when I was burning off my first vape, a G-Pen Pro or Elite or whatever, 7 years ago. But after you get the big, as well as the little one, cured, it's golden!

Thanks for all of the cool info!

 

[Mad_Max]

I just bought a second Onyx Grey Roffu for $100.62 shipped , the lite kit, using "JINGLE" as a coupon code.