maremaresing
Well-Known Member
I haven't changed the metal bowl out or touched it yet because I'm afraid of wearing the oring. Wouldn't things like the glass WPA from @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd that is so popular right now also exacerbate this?
XVape XLUX ROFFU
- Thread starter XpeeN
- Start date
Possibly. I have been using mine a LOT and it still feels the same tightness wise. That’s not to say over time it won’t wear it down though. I have also wondered this.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
So, the screen is not actually showing as "on", just the Roffu splash?
I wonder, is it developing any heat- does the heater screen get warm/hot? Any vibration? Or is it only the splash?
That Roffu screen flashes whenever a battery is inserted, ime. The symptom you describe soulds like it could be a dodgy battery terminal inside the device, or on that flap battery cover? causing intermittant contact.
Or, have you tried a different battery, maybe the one you've had in there is having some issue?
I have a feeling this will be hard to forget!
The lighting in my photo did not do this one justice.
The chambers are intended to be removed/replaced at you whim.
I happen to prefer the glass to the metal. I take it off pretty often, and now the same using the wpa. But with the wpa, removing at every hit, I tend to not push down hard enough to engage the o-ring.
Consider that in never removing, you may be allowing some buildup down in there, and on when the chamber does come out it might damage the o-ring. Only speculation on my part.
I have twice now cleaned down around the heater post using a toothpick and an iso wipe.
I suggest, when you do take a chamber off after a long time without having done so, do it when device is warm.
I like @LesPlenty's suggestion for folks waitng on a true fix re: this issue. Use one of the spare screen rings.
This is one of the reasons I opt for the carbed wpa. No need to lift on and off constantly.
LeftBased
Well-Known Member
Take this with a grain of salt.
I been experimenting with temps on the roffu, my roffu runs slightly hotter than my fury edge, of course roffu is more convection and takes longer draws to heat up material, however 350f in roffu is like 380f in a fury edge or so.
I got this scuffed temp chart.
Roffu set temp = actual temp (all theory)
I been experimenting with temps on the roffu, my roffu runs slightly hotter than my fury edge, of course roffu is more convection and takes longer draws to heat up material, however 350f in roffu is like 380f in a fury edge or so.
I got this scuffed temp chart.
Roffu set temp = actual temp (all theory)
Code:
301f=325f | 306f=330f | 314f=338f | 326f=350f
332f=356f | 336f=360f | 341f=365f | 350f=374f
356f=380f | 359f=383f | 361f=385f | 364f=388f
368f=392f | 385f=409f | 394f=419f | 401f=425f
404f=428f | 410f=434f | 419f=443f | 424f=448f
428f=452f
I believe the metal bowl may have a sharper edge than the glass and maybe more forgiving on the o-ring but my oven did come loose over time with mainly using the glass.
The loose oven does not seem to affect performance at all but you do have to be careful not to drop the oven when emptying. I find the best way to empty mine while out and about is to simply remove the CU and blow across the top of the oven to empty the ABV as I do not collect ABV when on the go (I sometimes just bin the Roffu ABV if used above 180c even at home).
Tell the truth, you are a conduction junkie, just kidding...good idea though!
They are also great for out and about too, I usually fill my first bowl for out and about and just blow it away then replace it with capsules as needed.
This is the first vape where I actually enjoy using capsules for the added conduction and therefore different vape signature which I really like being a 1 or 2 strain guy.
maremaresing
Well-Known Member
That's the thing, I exclusively use caps. I need to be able to tip them out without the tube coming with it. Especially when it's usually extremely hot!
This is the post I referred to.
I get that no electronic vape may be perfect when it comes to temp readout but this does not seem correct to me. I guess I would need more info but if he is saying when it reads 350F the actual temp is 374 to me that is a problem. On my vape I trust the reading, maybe I shouldn't??
One way to find out. Take a temp probe and start doing steps in temp then take some direct readings with a calibrated thermometer and charting it.
I have one and i could do it, but does it really matter if it is off a little bit? As long as it isnt off my 50 degrees or something i would think it is fine (at least for me), but is it a big deal?
Personally, i dont think so because i found a happy place in the temp range. I suppose if someone is chasing taste or terps, maybe.
I have one and i could do it, but does it really matter if it is off a little bit? As long as it isnt off my 50 degrees or something i would think it is fine (at least for me), but is it a big deal?
Personally, i dont think so because i found a happy place in the temp range. I suppose if someone is chasing taste or terps, maybe.
You dont. Lucky for you there are a plethora of devices for you to choose from.
If you think it is that big of a deal, return it and go with something different.
OR….
You could just find a happy temp and stay there regardless how much it is off.
Why are you saying that the Fury is more accurate? Isn't it just as likely that they are both "wrong"?
Also what is the temperature in the LCD mean? The bowl? The weed? The heater below the bowl? The side walls?
hinglemccringleberry
Well-Known Member
Exactly, the measuring and data collection equipment/techniques of the various brands' spec sheets is what really needs to be put in a gauge. I think convection ones are gonna be more inaccurate than conduction monitoring.
Only my taste buds and throat can tell me what "temp" I'm at. So, If Im using a vape with a temp readout with questionable accuracy, and ability to combust herb, and wanted to rip the whole load at once, Id start with 395 without tripping that it's "not hot enough". Adjust from there if you need or want to. Same with starting at low temps. It's not gonna off by 20C one direction or the other.
If I really loved a vape with a totally wrong temp readout but its wonderful in every other way, and I couldn't return/exchange it, I'd probably keep it and accept the flaw. And then forget about the flaw...Just me tho.
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The heat in the load depends on your breath with convection vapes, the temps are a rough guide to get you close to where you need to be then fine tune for personal preference.
Exactly @Grass Yes, the temps step with the unit correctly up or down.
I see your problem and if you do not want to use one of your spare oven o-rings for an interim fix, then you should start a return/warranty ticket here for a solution,
Email: Support@xvapeusa.com
Phone: 9095171100
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Still having some very nice sessions with my JoDa WPA, using like a log, removing Roffu to clear hit though leaving it in in session mode, small bowls with one hit at 315 and another at 328 to finish after a stir, very nice thick vapor, much better flavor sticking to these super low temps and stirring gives much better extraction... Simple quick and effective, I don't really have any concerns!
LeftBased
Well-Known Member
I know that roffu heater is more hotter / efficient compared to v3 pro, however to be fair there is conductivity that can occur on stainless steel insert and chamber I was using the quartz chamber when I discovered the hotter temp at low temp on readout. Since SS chamber has natural conductivity my temp guide theory could be invalid. I have to do testing with my stainless steel chamber, I have a feeling it will be hotter over time in session thus easily going from 374 to 385? Like a range from a variable voltage battery. The longer you apply heat the temp will fluctuate. Long sessions with rogue at same temp it will produce darker abv because walls of chamber are heat soaked. Aka like preheating your oven and cooking pies all day you will have to adjust cooking times to compensate for the heat soaked oven.
The quartz chamber cools faster than my stainless steel chamber. I figure the SS chamber could get have a nice conductive heat soak. I already seen the difference in abv at same vape temps when swapped chambers.
Quartz gives smooth flavor and lighter abv, while stainless steel chamber gives me dark abv, the flavor still good but more of a jagged taste from the extra cannabinoids that boil off.
I think oven hits the temps on display however they did say they made the oven hotter, and there could still be some conductivity on the ovens metal screen. So who knows I think any vape will have some conductivity even the classic mighty has convection heater that's a hybrid due to the design and metal parts getting heat soaked. however it has been quoted to be the best flavorful session vape.
I personally never had a mighty, I've tried a friends volcano before. And must say convection is the best..that's why the xlux roffu is awesome. I get good flavor at alot of temps even if the readout seems to be wrong and the oven runs hotter. Still doesn't combust. The whole point of vaping is to avoid combustion and get all the cannabinoids and terpenes you can get safely.
It's still a decent portable vape, well built and nice screen. It would be nice to get a bios update.
I do have my fury edge and that has been on break, I still enjoy the vapor quality of the edge despite it not having a changeable battery. However my roffu has replaced it as a daily driver. I love that I can swap batteries. So when my battery finally craps out can easily get some new sets of 18650s and the roffu is under 7.5 amps so you can use a battery between 10 and up amps. I prefer using 15 and up amps.
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vapviking
Old & In the Way
Okay, first please consider, how did you measure the actual temps in order to make these comparisons? Or please explain "all theory". Can't tell what is your method, or is this all guesswork?
For manufacturers, measuring temps is like a holy grail, they need to know what's going on in there in order to regulate it. But there are so many variables, as have been stated a few times already.
A lot of the very best vapes acknowledge this by simply having no numeric readout for temp. Look at TinyMight. Bowle. MiniVap, even Pax! The list goes on.
It's all relative.
Every vape you ever acquire will require you to 'dial it in' to how you want/need to use it. Even twins - two of the same, from same manufacturer - may vary in use.
LeftBased
Well-Known Member
I seen others say that roffu burns 50f hotter than v3 pro. So I did some temp experiments with a batch of herb, and sort of compared experiences with another vape.
The Roffu heater runs efficient and hotter at set temps, maybe it's all relativity, obviously putting a piece of toast in a toaster oven at low temps will toast bread lightly if you keep same toast in toaster at low temps longer eventually it will reach a certain level.
Maybe it's all placebo, I do feel like it's a range and not exact given factors like how humid is the herb, am I drawing slow or medium or fast? How long am I inhaling? So many factors come into play.
At the end of the day it's a range, say you put 330f it can hit 330f but over time it can dip up and down depending on how hard you draw. Cool air can effect the heat, however I am not an engineer. I think it's really just a guideline not concrete.
I do believe when you set it to 350f heater does hit that but overtime and how you draw it will climb up, notice the body of the device heats up it retains heat in the aluminum casing thus adding a conductive effect over all.
However same can be said about other vapes like the fury series, my fury edge gets warm with multiple sessions or if I turn up temps the body will be really warm after one session.
Of course the inner bowl of the dirt edge is stainless steel and retains residual heat. Back to back sessions abv is darker at same setting.
When I use the roffu sometimes I like to do two sessions back to back. Thus the temp guidelines is just for me to be in a temp range however it may not be accurate just an approximate. I notice abv at those set temps match similar to the fury edge just slight alterations.
I think it's not 50f hotter however with stainless steel that can be otherwise. Then again quartz takes time to heat up, I feel using stainless steel helps retain some degrees of heat contributing to a boost in roasting the herb more.
It's all theory. No scientific backup to the claims. Take it with a grain of salt. It could be a new batch of roffu's, I seem to have gotten one that runs hot. I did get my roffu through the black Friday sale.
There could have been revisions or fixes, I do not know about. However I am fine with my roffu just have to run it at lower temps because higher temps just roast the crap out of the herb and flavor dies out sooner. The burnt popcorn taste comes out.
I try to find balance by using low temps. I would have to make a separate temp chart for the stainless steel chamber. Minor adjustments. The quartz offers the best flavor. However I appreciate the stainless steel chamber it seems more efficient at getting the ultimate roast if desired.
Also I did swap OEM battery for molicels and performance still seems same, just molicels pack more sessions it seems, than again I do turn off the vape if the session seems done before timer.
While on session mode I use the six minute timer. While on demand I do not time myself but do enjoy on demand mode for flavorful hits, seems to last longer on demand, I do see that on demand sessions can be draining on batteries however it all depends on temp, draw technique, source material quality of herb.
The Roffu heater runs efficient and hotter at set temps, maybe it's all relativity, obviously putting a piece of toast in a toaster oven at low temps will toast bread lightly if you keep same toast in toaster at low temps longer eventually it will reach a certain level.
Maybe it's all placebo, I do feel like it's a range and not exact given factors like how humid is the herb, am I drawing slow or medium or fast? How long am I inhaling? So many factors come into play.
At the end of the day it's a range, say you put 330f it can hit 330f but over time it can dip up and down depending on how hard you draw. Cool air can effect the heat, however I am not an engineer. I think it's really just a guideline not concrete.
I do believe when you set it to 350f heater does hit that but overtime and how you draw it will climb up, notice the body of the device heats up it retains heat in the aluminum casing thus adding a conductive effect over all.
However same can be said about other vapes like the fury series, my fury edge gets warm with multiple sessions or if I turn up temps the body will be really warm after one session.
Of course the inner bowl of the dirt edge is stainless steel and retains residual heat. Back to back sessions abv is darker at same setting.
When I use the roffu sometimes I like to do two sessions back to back. Thus the temp guidelines is just for me to be in a temp range however it may not be accurate just an approximate. I notice abv at those set temps match similar to the fury edge just slight alterations.
I think it's not 50f hotter however with stainless steel that can be otherwise. Then again quartz takes time to heat up, I feel using stainless steel helps retain some degrees of heat contributing to a boost in roasting the herb more.
It's all theory. No scientific backup to the claims. Take it with a grain of salt. It could be a new batch of roffu's, I seem to have gotten one that runs hot. I did get my roffu through the black Friday sale.
There could have been revisions or fixes, I do not know about. However I am fine with my roffu just have to run it at lower temps because higher temps just roast the crap out of the herb and flavor dies out sooner. The burnt popcorn taste comes out.
I try to find balance by using low temps. I would have to make a separate temp chart for the stainless steel chamber. Minor adjustments. The quartz offers the best flavor. However I appreciate the stainless steel chamber it seems more efficient at getting the ultimate roast if desired.
Also I did swap OEM battery for molicels and performance still seems same, just molicels pack more sessions it seems, than again I do turn off the vape if the session seems done before timer.
While on session mode I use the six minute timer. While on demand I do not time myself but do enjoy on demand mode for flavorful hits, seems to last longer on demand, I do see that on demand sessions can be draining on batteries however it all depends on temp, draw technique, source material quality of herb.
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Where did I mention a Fury? I guess I am not understanding the post or the replies. If a vape is off by 25 degrees in its readout that seems like a problem to me.
The graphs you quoted were comparing the fury and the Roffu thats where the "25 degrees off" comes from.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Temperature readouts on most inexpensive vape devices are only a SUGGESTION!
If it bothers you, buy a Mighty, the oven temperature is fairly accurate to the readout…..
Mad_Max
Well-Known Member
I broke my glass bowl this week, and I found I was resisting using the Roffu because I had really gotten attached to that glass bowl! But now this came to my rescue, 10x over, thanks to @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd . (I did order some Roffu bowls.)
Petetbay
Well-Known Member
I’ve been enjoying my Roffu lots lately and usually run it in 2 different setups OG glass/steel bowl version using the spiral CU without silicone sleeve out though the silicone wpa equipped with a Rogue glass mp/wpa.
Or using the JoDa Glassworks stem/wpa through the modified CU on a water piece or custom mp.
Been vaping herb and old school hash separately and found the OG steel bowl works better for hash starting @ 360/370*F gives great flavor and as vapor/taste degrades you can ramp it up to fully extract and actually had my 1st combust in the Roffu running it too long at full temp. I always vape a hash bowl with hemp fiber top and bottom to keep everything clean. I use a 3mm sized Solo/Air glass spacer from 420EDC at bottom to do a reduced bowl.
Now I have found my OG glass/steel bowls no longer have hold resistance so whatever was creating that has fallen out when debowling. Never found what it was and not having the spare orings that some got I tried a oring off the steel screen/filter and that didn’t work. I have an assortment of orings Revolve, Anvil, Xvape, Simrell etc, but asking if anyone fix this with an oring before I start working on this. I really don’t like using it with the OG bowl when it drops out when debowling as they are f’ing hot. I know @LesPlenty has brought it to their attention without conclusion I can hope they will have one, but it’s not looking good. I came up with an idea to try parchment paper as it should be able to withstand the temp and trying this out and it seems to add the restriction needed.
edit: The parchment paper works good, easily withstands the heat and provides needed resistance. Need to see how long it lasts and best way use it, looks good though, I’m happy my bowl stays in when debowling, even the JoDa adapters stay good without using the CU.
Or using the JoDa Glassworks stem/wpa through the modified CU on a water piece or custom mp.
Been vaping herb and old school hash separately and found the OG steel bowl works better for hash starting @ 360/370*F gives great flavor and as vapor/taste degrades you can ramp it up to fully extract and actually had my 1st combust in the Roffu running it too long at full temp. I always vape a hash bowl with hemp fiber top and bottom to keep everything clean. I use a 3mm sized Solo/Air glass spacer from 420EDC at bottom to do a reduced bowl.
Now I have found my OG glass/steel bowls no longer have hold resistance so whatever was creating that has fallen out when debowling. Never found what it was and not having the spare orings that some got I tried a oring off the steel screen/filter and that didn’t work. I have an assortment of orings Revolve, Anvil, Xvape, Simrell etc, but asking if anyone fix this with an oring before I start working on this. I really don’t like using it with the OG bowl when it drops out when debowling as they are f’ing hot. I know @LesPlenty has brought it to their attention without conclusion I can hope they will have one, but it’s not looking good. I came up with an idea to try parchment paper as it should be able to withstand the temp and trying this out and it seems to add the restriction needed.
edit: The parchment paper works good, easily withstands the heat and provides needed resistance. Need to see how long it lasts and best way use it, looks good though, I’m happy my bowl stays in when debowling, even the JoDa adapters stay good without using the CU.
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