VaporGenie
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OF
Well-Known Member
Exactly so. I'd add 'keep it dry going in' to the grind advice, you don't want to waste heat drying the load rather than making vapor.
It's not a filter. It doesn't remove anything of interest. It's a heat exchanger. You heat it (with the lighter) and it heats the air as it passes through. Yes, it's Silicon Carbide, a super tough ceramic, aside from physical assault you can't hurt it.
Follow the advice, get a (small) torch. A much better, easier to control tool for the heating job. Candle flame lighters can foul the exchanger with soot which will wreck the show.
Don't be too shy with the heat, but think about the process. You put the heat in first. It (the heat) has to be absorbed by the exchanger before it can be transferred to the air. And a lot of that hot air cools back off transferring heat to lower layers in the exchanger. All that takes time. You're not lighting a bong here.
OF
Jethro
Well-Known Member
Ok, I will stick with the torch lighter that they sold me, glad to see that $17 was not ill spent.
I only had two bowls yesterday and even with my technique challenges I got SERIOUSLY medicated. Severely vaked... seems like more so in two good rips than 7 or 8 big clouds with my Pax. And I am very pleased with the consumption/effeciency. I put in half of what I would use when in my Pax, even when using the double screen/half pack method. So I see this as being the answer to my efficiency problem.
I only had two bowls yesterday and even with my technique challenges I got SERIOUSLY medicated. Severely vaked... seems like more so in two good rips than 7 or 8 big clouds with my Pax. And I am very pleased with the consumption/effeciency. I put in half of what I would use when in my Pax, even when using the double screen/half pack method. So I see this as being the answer to my efficiency problem.
I also use a torch for my classic. For my coil, I use hemp wick. Their are a few vapes I use that I have to grind super fine: MFLB and VG. My other vapes I load with more fluffy herbs.
I've had the coil for about a year; I still can't get consistant hits or fully extracted ABV. The video was real helpful. I guess I need a bit more practice or I'm just getting spoiled with vaporizers like the Solo. I look at the Solo and its ilk and compare them to automatic luxury cars, and the VG is like a standard transmission muscle car: It's fast, load, uses alot of fuel, but is real fun. If you get real efficient with a stick shift it's faster that most automatics, lighter, and gets better gas milage. Plus, you used to have to pay extra for an automatic transmission.
I've had the coil for about a year; I still can't get consistant hits or fully extracted ABV. The video was real helpful. I guess I need a bit more practice or I'm just getting spoiled with vaporizers like the Solo. I look at the Solo and its ilk and compare them to automatic luxury cars, and the VG is like a standard transmission muscle car: It's fast, load, uses alot of fuel, but is real fun. If you get real efficient with a stick shift it's faster that most automatics, lighter, and gets better gas milage. Plus, you used to have to pay extra for an automatic transmission.
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
Now that your using it your results will only improve @Jethro, the VG classic still blows me away. I still like mine best with a bic But I'm getting much better using the torch that came with the Daisy, my fancy cigar lighters didn't do as well as the $3 torch from china.
Practice, practice, practice.
Practice, practice, practice.
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RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
Just a heads up on grinding, when i first started vaping the VG classic was my first vape and i didn't own a grinder and could still only get mexi-brick weed.
I cleaned out seeds and stems the old fashion way by hand with a gate-fold album cover and drivers license and loaded the bowl. After the first two hits I dump the load in my palm n crush it with my index finger (usually turns to powder) comes out finer then any coffee grinder or herb grinder I've ever used and actually has just become part of my ritual now with many of the vapes I use, I even do this with a mflb load that was ground fine with the finishing grinder. Helps me get an even bake through the whole load and denser vapor.
I cleaned out seeds and stems the old fashion way by hand with a gate-fold album cover and drivers license and loaded the bowl. After the first two hits I dump the load in my palm n crush it with my index finger (usually turns to powder) comes out finer then any coffee grinder or herb grinder I've ever used and actually has just become part of my ritual now with many of the vapes I use, I even do this with a mflb load that was ground fine with the finishing grinder. Helps me get an even bake through the whole load and denser vapor.
New_World
Cuck Fombustion
i use a coffee grinder and I can grind it to dust if i want.
if you're not grinding very fine with the VG or MFLB......you're doing it wrong!
Jethro
Well-Known Member
Ah ha, I see. I was kinda hoping this VG would be my low tech solution, not needing a grinder, but so be it.
I kinda miss the days of having a brass pipe made from hardware store stuff and a dime bag. Grab a chunk of Columbian brick weed and spark it up! Now a days its $250 vapes, batteries that need to be charged, jet lighters, grinders... I was trying to test last night if I could just old school burn a chunk of bud. Guess that isn't happening, but it's ok and I will get over it.
I kinda miss the days of having a brass pipe made from hardware store stuff and a dime bag. Grab a chunk of Columbian brick weed and spark it up! Now a days its $250 vapes, batteries that need to be charged, jet lighters, grinders... I was trying to test last night if I could just old school burn a chunk of bud. Guess that isn't happening, but it's ok and I will get over it.
hoptimum
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you can find Colombian brick weed if you really want to, and I still keep my faithful Proto Pipe and some rolling papers for the inevitable zombie apocalypse. But I've given away pretty much all my other smoking paraphernalia that I couldn't adapt to vaporizing, and funny thing, I don't miss them at all.
paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
I don't think you need a grinder for a good grind. But it makes it more convenient and gets you less dirty.
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
Naw, Just Doing it Different.
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
Well guys, on the go i digged up some VG product (coil and classic maple) after seeing the @paytonpenn videos.
i should say they hit pretty hard once at temperature, my proud japanese torch prince PB-207 (15yo) performed really snap. A bit throat concerns washed by beer. Still waiting to try coil on the go.
i should say they hit pretty hard once at temperature, my proud japanese torch prince PB-207 (15yo) performed really snap. A bit throat concerns washed by beer. Still waiting to try coil on the go.
Egzoset
Banned
UPDATE
Correction: it stopped working a couple days ago and the only replacement i found was this:
Which forced me to re-configure because of the insufficient jet-flame angle...
Correction: it stopped working a couple days ago and the only replacement i found was this:
Which forced me to re-configure because of the insufficient jet-flame angle...
Egzoset
Banned
Some more update...
The new butane lighters appear to be so much less powerful than expected this has caused me to reconfigure again (e.g. until something works!)... Here's what i've got so far:
My top-of-bowl SiC disc being broken it became an issue as i was having dark spots, etc. Removal of the damaged 3rd puck is expected to result in more even (and faster) heating somewhat, the next few days will tell i guess.
In addition, it was necessary to revert to the genuine bowl layout...
And then, to top it all, recently inspired by the VapMan i finally compounded another variable(!):
A tiny pinhole (see blue arrow) about half a millimeter in diameter allows fresh air to be injected into the cannabic stream past the cotton filter. The hole was too large so i used toothpick bits to limit airflow while providing an arrester for particles-filtering cotton...
My previous habit of turning the front puck dim-red is a thing of the past i'm afraid (lesser eye-contact) but that's for the best as this late trade-off now spares me from the need to pre-heat in the 1st place! Though slightly more lung effort may be required. Not to mention my preliminary wind tests felt promissing!
Ah, and i almost forgot: i cut my wooden sphere's top to shorten the funnel path a little... This should also reduce the likeliness of accidental burns from touching the metal ring around it.
The new butane lighters appear to be so much less powerful than expected this has caused me to reconfigure again (e.g. until something works!)... Here's what i've got so far:
My top-of-bowl SiC disc being broken it became an issue as i was having dark spots, etc. Removal of the damaged 3rd puck is expected to result in more even (and faster) heating somewhat, the next few days will tell i guess.
In addition, it was necessary to revert to the genuine bowl layout...
And then, to top it all, recently inspired by the VapMan i finally compounded another variable(!):
A tiny pinhole (see blue arrow) about half a millimeter in diameter allows fresh air to be injected into the cannabic stream past the cotton filter. The hole was too large so i used toothpick bits to limit airflow while providing an arrester for particles-filtering cotton...
My previous habit of turning the front puck dim-red is a thing of the past i'm afraid (lesser eye-contact) but that's for the best as this late trade-off now spares me from the need to pre-heat in the 1st place! Though slightly more lung effort may be required. Not to mention my preliminary wind tests felt promissing!
Ah, and i almost forgot: i cut my wooden sphere's top to shorten the funnel path a little... This should also reduce the likeliness of accidental burns from touching the metal ring around it.
Egzoset
Banned
Even more modded VG love!
Lets start with this low-res overall view:
Then these two explanatory snapshots:
And then finally:
Torch or MiniTronic it appears to be so finely tweaked now i'm starting to wonder if it's not just about to become my "Plan-A"!... Though so far "B" in "Plan-B" still stands for "Butane", of course.
...
Ah and i made my bowl 9 mm deep, which falls between standard and maximum.
Lets start with this low-res overall view:
Then these two explanatory snapshots:
And then finally:
Torch or MiniTronic it appears to be so finely tweaked now i'm starting to wonder if it's not just about to become my "Plan-A"!... Though so far "B" in "Plan-B" still stands for "Butane", of course.
...
Ah and i made my bowl 9 mm deep, which falls between standard and maximum.
KidFated.
Unknown Member
It's sick that you incorporated those vapman inspired pinholes. Do you still preheat?Even more modded VG love!
Lets start with this low-res overall view:
Then these two explanatory snapshots:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/n...-la-découverte-du-feu.9259/page-2#post-654963
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/n...-la-découverte-du-feu.9259/page-2#post-654963
FC: Nouvelle étape franchie: la découverte du feu! (2014-Aug-31)
And then finally:
Torch or MiniTronic it appears to be so finely tweaked now i'm starting to wonder if it's not just about to become my "Plan-A"!... Though so far "B" in "Plan-B" still stands for "Butane", of course.
...
Ah and i made my bowl 9 mm deep, which falls between standard and maximum.
Egzoset
Banned
Salutations KidFated.,
Actually this resulted from a lucky guess while trying to imagine self-conditioning for my LavaWand IH fantasy: what if this secondary (new) fresh-air path happens to be pre-moisturized?...
What if i got a water boiler connected behind??
Considering "Plan-A" would be dry without it...
It's difficult to draw definitive conclusions as the changes are still fresh but there have been times when i thought i'd never pre-heat as before ever again and yet other times when it seemed i turned totally clueless all the sudden. Some additional training will help, at least i noticed my sphere doesn't get as hot as it used to feel, euh... Oh, and when it does get red it's real dim and incidental: i don't appear to depend on this brutal mode anymore. So i'd say the small drop of airflow pressure may give me an edge i think.
My bet is that butane tank capacity might prove more adequate under the late moddifications. Also, i missed the visual hint of my MF208 so i tried to purge it again and then it improved partially; in any case i was able to use it conveniently and hence i must insist its "Gun" shape sure renders it significantly more pleasant to handle in comparison to the replacements!
The element pictured above corresponds to my handle's tip which i cut to create an articulated joint, so i could determine what are my "sweet spot" angles while holding the funnel on the side, facing a torch flame. By the way, ordinary MiniTronics worked equally fine with some adaptation. Now that i got a more acurate idea of the correct orientation it would be preferable to get rid of the teflon straw attatching that angled adaptor, making it useless as the extension tube itself can connect, directly, with the benefit of less airflow restriction (from the teflon straw)...
If i get a chance i'll attempt to have 3 SiC discs again, because after removal of the top-of-bowl screen + puck i started seeing issues that did'nt bother me as much previously; vegetal matter being moved away from a vortex zone, for example, caused me to re-adjust bowl depth again (it's now 9 mm deep). Hot spot formation would make me want to experiment with a screen inserted between that 3rd puck and my glass deflector, to spread radiative heat, etc.
Anyway i'd be curious to try a genuine VG Classic at this point.
Actually this resulted from a lucky guess while trying to imagine self-conditioning for my LavaWand IH fantasy: what if this secondary (new) fresh-air path happens to be pre-moisturized?...
What if i got a water boiler connected behind??
Considering "Plan-A" would be dry without it...
It's difficult to draw definitive conclusions as the changes are still fresh but there have been times when i thought i'd never pre-heat as before ever again and yet other times when it seemed i turned totally clueless all the sudden. Some additional training will help, at least i noticed my sphere doesn't get as hot as it used to feel, euh... Oh, and when it does get red it's real dim and incidental: i don't appear to depend on this brutal mode anymore. So i'd say the small drop of airflow pressure may give me an edge i think.
My bet is that butane tank capacity might prove more adequate under the late moddifications. Also, i missed the visual hint of my MF208 so i tried to purge it again and then it improved partially; in any case i was able to use it conveniently and hence i must insist its "Gun" shape sure renders it significantly more pleasant to handle in comparison to the replacements!
The element pictured above corresponds to my handle's tip which i cut to create an articulated joint, so i could determine what are my "sweet spot" angles while holding the funnel on the side, facing a torch flame. By the way, ordinary MiniTronics worked equally fine with some adaptation. Now that i got a more acurate idea of the correct orientation it would be preferable to get rid of the teflon straw attatching that angled adaptor, making it useless as the extension tube itself can connect, directly, with the benefit of less airflow restriction (from the teflon straw)...
If i get a chance i'll attempt to have 3 SiC discs again, because after removal of the top-of-bowl screen + puck i started seeing issues that did'nt bother me as much previously; vegetal matter being moved away from a vortex zone, for example, caused me to re-adjust bowl depth again (it's now 9 mm deep). Hot spot formation would make me want to experiment with a screen inserted between that 3rd puck and my glass deflector, to spread radiative heat, etc.
Anyway i'd be curious to try a genuine VG Classic at this point.
Egzoset
Banned
Just a note...
Dim-red pre-heating (with an empty bowl), that is only meant to store as much thermal energy as possible in the core (...), remains a valid scenario but it felt excessively tedious so i'm sort of relieved. Under the present context pre-heating is done using significantly less time & energy: actually one can switch between the pre-heat and vape phases then be done in less than 2 seconds, it just requires more lung force than i like to use myself, so it may be confusing and cause me to suspect my fuel tank could have went empty when in fact i should simply try sucking harder... That's a direct consequence of the pinhole i believe, also i noticed during the 1st day that combustion incidents felt a bit more forgiving, probably because the smoke event is diluted and detected early.
Dim-red pre-heating (with an empty bowl), that is only meant to store as much thermal energy as possible in the core (...), remains a valid scenario but it felt excessively tedious so i'm sort of relieved. Under the present context pre-heating is done using significantly less time & energy: actually one can switch between the pre-heat and vape phases then be done in less than 2 seconds, it just requires more lung force than i like to use myself, so it may be confusing and cause me to suspect my fuel tank could have went empty when in fact i should simply try sucking harder... That's a direct consequence of the pinhole i believe, also i noticed during the 1st day that combustion incidents felt a bit more forgiving, probably because the smoke event is diluted and detected early.
Egzoset
Banned
Yet another fun experiment...
A most natural and efficient connector system!
The HA teflon straw still works as before except, using a succession of 3 ~ 4 cold/hot brutal temperature transitions (in microwave followed by tap water cooling), i found it's quite possible to shape a food-safe PVC plastic tube (as that found in hardware stores, around the plumber/aquarium products), in such a way to render it self-supporting... Which put shorlty translates as the removal of 2 interface materials: teflon and high-temperature synthetic material. In clear that implies a simpler & even more affordable modded VG pipe which i believe to have proven worth every penny already.
The genuine pipe seems like a honnest deal to me, but i needed something more inclusive and now i think it was there at hand, looking at me in the face all along!... That thing has a life of it's own!!
This was about nipples (!):
A most natural and efficient connector system!
The HA teflon straw still works as before except, using a succession of 3 ~ 4 cold/hot brutal temperature transitions (in microwave followed by tap water cooling), i found it's quite possible to shape a food-safe PVC plastic tube (as that found in hardware stores, around the plumber/aquarium products), in such a way to render it self-supporting... Which put shorlty translates as the removal of 2 interface materials: teflon and high-temperature synthetic material. In clear that implies a simpler & even more affordable modded VG pipe which i believe to have proven worth every penny already.
The genuine pipe seems like a honnest deal to me, but i needed something more inclusive and now i think it was there at hand, looking at me in the face all along!... That thing has a life of it's own!!
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I have a Classic VG... Sort of. I dismantled it being curious...
Anyway. I have the bowl stuck into a small glass water pipe (the cheap kind with the rubber holding the down stem (? Fake slide?) Because its not supposed to be removed.well I removed the "slide" and I shaved some of the metal of the bowl off and found a piece of rubber to make it fit where the slide was. It is amazingly smooth to hit and great set up... But I am thinking of getting a jhook to place the bowl in instead... Anyone know what size jhook would fit it best? I'm thinking 18mm..
Also does the glass VG work as good as the classic? I may end up just buying one instead...
I wrote this on my phone... Sorry if it doesn't make sense
Anyway. I have the bowl stuck into a small glass water pipe (the cheap kind with the rubber holding the down stem (? Fake slide?) Because its not supposed to be removed.well I removed the "slide" and I shaved some of the metal of the bowl off and found a piece of rubber to make it fit where the slide was. It is amazingly smooth to hit and great set up... But I am thinking of getting a jhook to place the bowl in instead... Anyone know what size jhook would fit it best? I'm thinking 18mm..
Also does the glass VG work as good as the classic? I may end up just buying one instead...
I wrote this on my phone... Sorry if it doesn't make sense
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paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
14mm. Have you seen this video?
All VaporGenies pretty much work the same as each other excluding the Volta. I recommend just getting a tube to fip from Home Depot/Lowes or a Coil rather than just a glass vaporgenie.
All VaporGenies pretty much work the same as each other excluding the Volta. I recommend just getting a tube to fip from Home Depot/Lowes or a Coil rather than just a glass vaporgenie.
thanks for the video... that's the same idea i am going for, except I have the original bowl. I think for me 14 or 18mm would work.. the 18mm would just seat the bowl deeper depending on where i place the rubber.