I don't have my 19M, but on my Ti that I bought in July has a DY6 cap
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
I have a DY6 cap. It measures out as a middle of the road cap when it comes to IH magnetic field coupling. Unfortunately its a dead cap so I can comment on the performance other than that. I ran into one '19-M cap that is just hotter-n-hell. It is marked DY9 where 3 others read similar to the DY6 I have.
I have been going nuts with some prototype IHs. I have 3 varied caps in rotation for testing including a 2020 cap. I am only now discerning some of the real variation among the DV cap product line. I would really like to know more about what's changed over the years with regard to these caps. I show gain ratios of 4:1 on one where I can get 6.2:1 on another. Talk about moving targets.
I have been going nuts with some prototype IHs. I have 3 varied caps in rotation for testing including a 2020 cap. I am only now discerning some of the real variation among the DV cap product line. I would really like to know more about what's changed over the years with regard to these caps. I show gain ratios of 4:1 on one where I can get 6.2:1 on another. Talk about moving targets.
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BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
The type of stem does not have much to do with the heating of the tip. You can attach any stem to any dynavap stainless or titanium tip and cap and still use it effectively in an IH heater like the Caldron. My father currently uses a hydrovong in his Caldron and loves it.
grogazola
Well-Known Member
Thank you. What’s the battery life like on the Portside Mini? 800 mAh? How many clicks does that get you?
These batteries look fit for the job but not 100% on what BMS is in it. I've posted the question of max current output before tripping the safety to Amazon, so will wait for them to answer. $36 for 2 each, 2200 mAh batteries, and a charger is not too hard to swallow. Just keep an eye on the customer Q&A for them to answer the max current question before you buy. There are some other battery packs but gets expensive quickly.
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grogazola
Well-Known Member
Thank you to everyone with their quick replies. My Caldron has help up perfectly for a year now 
How do you go about cleaning the glass tube? A little bit of isopropyl? Is it safe if is what about the rubber? I haven’t noticed any performance issues, I just like to clean my pieces...
How do you go about cleaning the glass tube? A little bit of isopropyl? Is it safe if is what about the rubber? I haven’t noticed any performance issues, I just like to clean my pieces...
SonicBacon
Well-Known Member
Iso on a q-tip, hold the Caldron upside down to keep iso from running inside, and swab away at the glass.Thank you to everyone with their quick replies. My Caldron has help up perfectly for a year now
How do you go about cleaning the glass tube? A little bit of isopropyl? Is it safe if is what about the rubber? I haven’t noticed any performance issues, I just like to clean my pieces...
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Pipes.....I do not see your Question on the listing for that battery. They only show several questions from Nov 20 to Nov 23?
Nobody has given an answer yet. The question is there as I just checked. I also just re-phrased and asked again.
The snip below indicates there is high current protection but doesn't give an actual figure. It may be that each cell has protection or very small PCBs between the cells..? Can't see any PCBs in any pictures.
The snip below indicates there is high current protection but doesn't give an actual figure. It may be that each cell has protection or very small PCBs between the cells..? Can't see any PCBs in any pictures.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
@Pipes - there is a standard 3S BMS in the picture of the pack. They mount upside down and have a flat backside. I don't think the cells are up to the task. It should be the standard 10A or even 5A 3S 18650 BMS. However, these could be made easily with a few tools and quality cells. All hobby level stuff. These are in fact Li-ion in the picture.
They answered one of my questions by giving me the capacity of 2200 mAh which is not what I asked about.
Anyways, TommyDee, you may very well be correct about whether they can handle it. The only clue would be the capacity of 2200 mAh which could go either way. High current drain batteries are usually around 1500-2000 capacity whereas the low draw batteries usually boost around 3000 mAhs.
We only need 5-6 amps so hard to tell unless they get tried.
Agreed, an easy project to make but they are already assembled and ready to go. Many folks do not have the skills to make. The price seems very fair as well.
Anyways, TommyDee, you may very well be correct about whether they can handle it. The only clue would be the capacity of 2200 mAh which could go either way. High current drain batteries are usually around 1500-2000 capacity whereas the low draw batteries usually boost around 3000 mAhs.
We only need 5-6 amps so hard to tell unless they get tried.
Agreed, an easy project to make but they are already assembled and ready to go. Many folks do not have the skills to make. The price seems very fair as well.
acidspider
Well-Known Member
hi @Pipes, ive just picked up a 2nd hand portside mini, is there anything i need to look for to ensure it is still in 100% working order, it may be an old revision with the battery indicator on the side, is there a way i can bring it up to date?
this is my first time using an IH and it makes my caps click very quickly (3 seconds or so)
this is my first time using an IH and it makes my caps click very quickly (3 seconds or so)
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IMO, if it works it works.
The battery might be the only thing I might change, but that would depend on its health.
acidspider
Well-Known Member
I just posted in the PSM thread about an update on the new switch mechanism I announced here. So best I repeat the post.
So far it seems to be working great. There has been the odd one stick or fall out but is generally easy fixes. No reports of the silicone pad melting which was a concern but seems not to be.
I am actually thinking of changing the heat shield to a wood/silicone hybrid but still ironing out the approach. This wood be a higher heat resistant version. Pardon the bun. However, as with my original wood shield, it would get black very quick but this is just a wood hardening process. I'm thinking of a wooden disk that fits loosely but would have a thinner low-density silicone pad slightly wider stuck under the wood disk. This would give some predictable friction which will keep the disk from sticking down and also keep it from falling out. Still throwing ideas around and might just make up a mix and match kit that the user can decide what suits their needs best. The main trick is a thin "low density, almost dense foam, high heat self-adhering disk" is affix to the main heatshield as the friction disk. I've already sourced this part along with the wood disks so won't be too long before I could do this change.Unless you guys prefer it as is..? Input appreciated.
hi @Pipes can you send me details to purchse some of these disks for my psm?
acidspider
Well-Known Member
Yes, this is definitely an option.I too have experimented with just one cap and removal will drop the heating current by about 1.5 amps or 30%. This translates into a longer wait time. Mod approved.
This is very simple to do as you just need to cut one lead to one of the legs of the cap to accomplish it. Bend the leg lead out of the way but leave enough lead to be able to reverse the mod if needed. Reversing will need a soldering iron though.
Simply bend the cut leg over and solder to the leg of the adjacent cap will bring back to normal.
does it make a difference if the left one is clipped? only reason i ask is because the solder joint is broke on that one