I wish shipping wasn't so expensive- I'd buy a batch of these screens.
And thanks for reposting the menu. I have it bookmarked now so I can access it. Is there any update to it since the software changes?
Funkyjunky I'm checking my setting against the ones you posted. The only ones that are different are the alg ones. I don't know how mine got set differently and if the difference is related to the new software. Should I change these to match the ones you posted? Is the boost why my temp is going higher than I want it to?
PID
BOOST 50
I 650
D 10
screens, picks or even whips i can send cheaper (3.80 priority). they need to fit an envelope and be less than 2cm thick, unfortunately that excludes stems.
and you are right, i havent updated the manual with the instructions for cruise mode. and yes the new PID value for I is 650, need to correct that in the manual as well. its not a crucial change and will not make your tubo work remarkeably better. boost value is ignored in PID algorithm we use. dont worry about it.
also preheat settings are completly ignored in our mode (TCR). dont worry about them.
the tubo should be quite on point with displaying temperature during a more or less steady draw. when idling (in cruise or heatup withotu drawing) the temps can oscillate around the set value. also at the end of a draw when fire is still pressed (or cruise active) but the draw has ended temperature can rise up several degrees, should drop very fast again.
loving the cruise progress bar! more stable heat too. anyone know if there is a method of doing the firmware from linux? i hate using my win10 partition
python-evic
you should find it via google.
I have also had some settings change so I would also like to perform a reset and reinstall the updates.
@funkyjunky can you explain here how to do this or PM me if that is better.
How full does the battery need to be to go into cruise mode? I have had over 50% battery and the tubo tells me weak battery and kicks me out of cruise??
Thanks.
if you really think you want to do that, there are different ways to restore default values:
check yours against the manual, except from changes i addressed above the values are still the recommended ones.
changes made to preheat,boost,powermode etc are not taken into account in the mode we use (TCR).
important settings are: PWR 70watts, COIL locked as your battery door indicates or the one you found is best for you, TCR 185.
if you really need to reset it software wise there are two ways:
- method 1: download the NFirmwareEditor, check the registers on the update window. there is somewhere a button: "reset dataflash". click it. update again with the latest tubo firmware. enter your coil resistance (battery door inside) in 'menu>coil>manage' in the field for TCR, make sure the locked symbol is after the number before you exit. check 'menu>coil>TCR' that M1 is 185. done
- method 2: download the original joyetech firmware for the vtwo mini and update the tubo with it. update it again with the tubo firmware. enter your coil resistance (battery door inside) in 'menu>coil>manage' in the field for TCR, make sure the locked symbol is after the number before you exit. check 'menu>coil>TCR' that M1 is 185. done
This is not really a major problem for me but even when not in cruise I have trouble turning the tubo off. It's set to do that at 4 clicks. I end up trying 4 several times and sometimes 5 and eventually it does turn off but it takes a few times. I know that just removing the battery will resolve it but it's easier for me to click than remove the battery.
i usually just click repeatedly until the display goes off or comes on
brute force it
. I blame all the FC members praising it.
