TUBO evic/dual

[bluesith]

Yass!

On a whim I checked the store page earlier this week, and there were some Tubo Evics available! I've ordered mine and it's in "building". I have to admit I'm pretty excited!

It's going to be poplar with no color, black Evic, long bent mouthpiece and PET whip. Then yesterday I added a medium capsule stem and a short mouthpiece...

I hope you enjoy it . I was like a kid at Christmas waiting on mine .I've had it just over a week and it's easily the best vape I've had . It's so much better in person than it looks . Small heavy , and just super cool.
I'd like to thank anyone who mentioned tubo evic on any of the threads on FC and Reddit , because up until then I'd never heard of it and was probably going to make another mistake.

 

[007mm]

There are many references to only changing the resistance when the unit is COLD. Part of the problem could be due to changing the resistance when hot.

Another possibility is dirt & oxidation problems with the 510 connection. Take a small amount of iso to clean the threads on mod and TUBOx.

Before you go through the trouble/expense of sending it back I would suggest that you try reinstalling the software on your Dual and if the results are still the same try a different mod to be sure it is a TUBOx problem.

I thought I read that temp doesn't really matter when changing the resistance, but I guess I could be wrong. I typically wait a few minutes before changing resistance, but that probably isn't enough.

I've only had the mod for a couple months so I don't think there's a problem with the 510 port already. I had previously cleaned it with iso, and that seemed to help a bit but it's hard to tell because it could have just been another fluctuation.

I tried reinstalling the software and that changed nothing, but I guess it's possible I didn't do it correctly. I don't have another mod to test with, but before I got the Tubo I used this mod with a Divine Crossing v2 and didn't have this problem. However, I usually used it in on demand mode so I'm not sure I would have noticed this problem. The settings I used for each mod were very different though, so it's possible that the settings are part of the problem. I'm not sure which settings might affect this though. I have everything set up exactly like Funky and other users have recommended.

If there is a problem with my Tubo I would guess it has to do with the 510 connection since the coils do function properly when it's set up correctly. Does anyone have any other recommendations for how I could fix this on my own before I see if Funky can repair it?

 

[sickmanfraud]

No, funkyjunk has clarified that it doesn't matter if the vape is hot when you program the resistence.

I know that @funkyjunky says it doesn't matter if the unit is hot when changing resistance. I am a big supporter of the Tubo line of vapes, but I think that @funkyjunky may be wrong.

In the last number of months, I have read the package inserts from no less than 7-8 mods (including one DNA 250C) and they all say to change resistance only when cold.

Since I am not educated enough on this topic I will play it safe and try to only change resistance when cold.

 

[SloJimFizz]

No, funkyjunk has clarified that it doesn't matter if the vape is hot when you program the resistence.

I know that @funkyjunky says it doesn't matter if the unit is hot when changing resistance. I am a big supporter of the Tubo line of vapes, but I think that @funkyjunky may be wrong.

In the last number of months, I have read the package inserts from no less than 7-8 mods (including one DNA 250C) and they all say to change resistance only when cold.

Since I am not educated enough on this topic I will play it safe and try to only change resistance when cold.

I doubt fj meant let your mod read and change resistance while hot. By program, he most likely meant entering a known resistance number into the mod settings, while hot.
@007mm changing resistance isn't usually part of a session, you say you change it after a couple minutes in?

 

[NizzyJones]

I know that @funkyjunky says it doesn't matter if the unit is hot when changing resistance. I am a big supporter of the Tubo line of vapes, but I think that @funkyjunky may be wrong.

In the last number of months, I have read the package inserts from no less than 7-8 mods (including one DNA 250C) and they all say to change resistance only when cold.

That's because in those cases you're setting the resistance by actually reading the current resistance in the coil, not by inputting the resistance manually like we do for the Tubo.

We should never be using the measured resistance of the coil in the Tubo, FJ tests them and assigns them a calibrated resistance (the number on the battery door) based on that testing. Like a lot of people I do think it runs a bit cool at that calibrated resistance but it's predictable and precise; that's good enough for me.

 

[007mm]

@007mm changing resistance isn't usually part of a session, you say you change it after a couple minutes in?

Yeah, I usually don't mess with the resistance before I start, so it's just set to whatever it was when I last used it. Typically this would be somewhere between .180 and .195. I almost never get vapor production when I start, although the air is warm enough (like slightly warmer than the air in the room) that I know the coils are heating somewhat. I'll raise the resistance by .002 or .003, which results in the air being slightly warmer. but still not warm enough to produce any vapor. I'll continue this until I finally get vapor, which is typically around .203 but is sometimes as high as .208. At this point I'll get what I consider to be perfect vapor. Not super thick clouds, but enough that I know that it's working, and it's not hot enough to cause me any discomfort while inhaling (I use the long bent stem). I'll get consistent vapor for about a single cycle of cruise mode, but then something goes wrong and the vape gets really hot, often resulting in the coils glowing red, and I risk combustion if I don't notice it right away. At this point I'll do the exact opposite of what I did earlier, and I'll start lowering the resistance until I get good vapor production again. Usually I find that spot at .180-.195 which I why that's the resistance I start at the next time I vape.

For reference, if a specific resistance isn't working I'll turn off the device for a couple minutes before changing resistance. I also keep the temp set to 400f between resistances because that seems like a good middle of the ground testing temp. If I combust at 400f then the resistance is definitely too high, and if I'm getting absolutely no vapor at 400f then it's definitely too low. If I find a resistance that works well sometimes I'll lower or raise the temp by 20f (380f-420f) to really dial in the vapor to my liking.

To add to the problem, I have no clue what triggers the spike in temperature. I try to avoid touching the cord since Funky suggested that the problem is probably with the 510 connection, but I still get a spike when I don't touch my vape at all. I messed around with it a bit more over the weekend and found that if I mess with the wooden part of the 510 connection while it's on it *sometimes* causes a temp spike, so I think it's fair to say this is at least part of the problem. Unfortunately there's no indication of any of this on the screen, the displayed information doesn't fluctuate at all when the temp spikes. This makes it hard to diagnose the problem.

 

[KeroZen]

Typical contact resistance problem. Clean all your contacts with fine grit sandpaper, then use cotton + alcohol to clean off any residue.

Check also the 510 center pin tightness if it's adjustable. Too much or too little both can cause issues.

 

[007mm]

Typical contact resistance problem. Clean all your contacts with fine grit sandpaper, then use cotton + alcohol to clean off any residue.

Check also the 510 center pin tightness if it's adjustable. Too much or too little both can cause issues.

Do you think it's possible that the problem could be with the cords in the wooden bit of the 510 connection? I haven't tried sandpaper, and I don't know how to adjust the pin, but I cleaned the connection with iso multiple times and only got a slight improvement.

 

[KeroZen]

Yeah ISO isn't enough. The oxides and contaminants create a film which needs to be mechanically broken apart. Of course, be gentle and don't scratch the connector too badly!

For the pin I don't know, either it accepts some kind of Allen key or not, in which case it's probably not easily adjustable. I don't own the that device so I'm just guessing.

But sometimes it's just the mod 510 port that is fucked up. Especially with cheap Chinese models.

 

[leveltree]

@007mm
To help you debug your problem, there is the Arctic Fox software which let's you monitor multiple values of the device on a computer.
Just hook the mod up to usb port and run the program.
It can be fun in general and maybe helpful in your case.

I am no expert like KeroZene but from electrical logics I would also say it's either connection problems or maybe you use the mod in the wrong mode? Like power etc.

There were some mentions of 510 adapters in the thread which were used to avoid screwing the (I think) mod connector to often since those fail quickly then. Maybe that was for other (cheaper) mods.

Of course it's possible that the cords are a problem already but try KeroZene's advice first. Maybe the online value output from the program I mentioned can help you get information and pinpoint it down more.

Another thing I would try is reinstalling the firmware with flashing settings activated so you get original status back after setting coil resistance.

Hope you find the solution soon!

@over_heat
Lowering the output wattage helps pretty consistently in my experience and activating eco mode 3 too.

Even more helps to use it on demand instead of cruise which I do in "tough" conditions (more people after each other, high set temp, and low outdoor temp-that one probably mostly tough on battery).

You normally don't have to wait 20 minutes, 5 is enough in my experience to get it back to lower chip temps.
You can set your tubo to display those on screen which is helpful in overheating devices. Overheating occurs on 70°C.

You can try to add a little draw resistance by putting a finger on the air intake, this increases vapour/air ratio and still allows for a comfortable draw.

 

[007mm]

Yeah ISO isn't enough. The oxides and contaminants create a film which needs to be mechanically broken apart. Of course, be gentle and don't scratch the connector too badly!

For the pin I don't know, either it accepts some kind of Allen key or not, in which case it's probably not easily adjustable. I don't own the that device so I'm just guessing.

But sometimes it's just the mod 510 port that is fucked up. Especially with cheap Chinese models.

I've used this mod with the Divine Crossing v2 and didn't have any problems, so I think the problem must be with the Tubo end of the connection. I haven't owned either for more than a month so it seems really odd that there would be anything in the port itself, but I'll certainly try your advice. As for adjusting the pin height, is that on the mod or the vape?

@leveltree, can you explain the flashing setting to me? I can't recall seeing that anywhere. I'll definitely check out that software.


EDIT: I just tried watching the coils as I messed around with the 510 connection and noticed that they start glowing bright whenever I push in the connector. It was hard to tell by watching the numbers on the screen, but now that I've done this I think it's safe to say that's the issue. I either need to send it back to Funky for him to repair, or find a way to adjust the center pin myself. It looks like the vape connector can be adjusted with a flathead screwdriver but I don't want to mess with it unless someone else suggests that. I don't see a way to adjust the pin in the mod, but there might be a way if I take it apart. Ideas?

 

[KeroZen]

The pin on the mod is not adjustable when it's spring loaded, you just need to check it didn't turn sideways, preventing its movement or stuff like that. Sometimes it can get stuck in a low position for instance. I don't think you can adjust it either when it's not spring loaded?

I meant adjusting the 510 male center pin. If you say you got a slot for a screwdriver then go for it. Try turning it a bit so the pin protrudes more and makes a stronger connection.

But the thing is: too much messing around is what make these 510 ports die early. This is why it can be a good idea to use a 510 extender or heat-sink to prevent wear on the threads etc. Those can introduce their own challenges too, as they increase the mod static resistance and should be ideally compensated for in software (i.e. adjusting the mod internal resistance accordingly)

 

[leveltree]

@007mm
I also used the Arctic Fox software/NFE tools (https://nfeteam.org/) to upgrade my evic, it has multiple functions. Flashing memory (or something similar) is an option when updating with it.

 

[007mm]

The pin on the mod is not adjustable when it's spring loaded, you just need to check it didn't turn sideways, preventing its movement or stuff like that. Sometimes it can get stuck in a low position for instance. I don't think you can adjust it either when it's not spring loaded?

I meant adjusting the 510 male center pin. If you say you got a slot for a screwdriver then go for it. Try turning it a bit so the pin protrudes more and makes a stronger connection.

But the thing is: too much messing around is what make these 510 ports die early. This is why it can be a good idea to use a 510 extender or heat-sink to prevent wear on the threads etc. Those can introduce their own challenges too, as they increase the mod static resistance and should be ideally compensated for in software (i.e. adjusting the mod internal resistance accordingly)

Tried adjusting the pin and I think it made it a bit more consistent (less of a temp difference when pushing down on the connector), but it feels like I'd have to make a fairly large adjustment to be perfect and I don't feel comfortable with that. I think one of the inner cables is soldered to the center pin so I don't want to introduce a lot of strain on it. I ordered a couple different 510 adapters online so hopefully those help. Thanks for the advice!

 

[almost there]

Can someone tell me the OD of the spiked glass insert please? I'm planning on sanding down one of my wood stems to accommodate the glass insert, I do have the regular insert but unfortunately no calipers, TIA.

 

[funkyjunky]

hello friends!

Can someone tell me the OD of the spiked glass insert please? I'm planning on sanding down one of my wood stems to accommodate the glass insert, I do have the regular insert but unfortunately no calipers, TIA.

spiky and normal glass inserts are both 8mm outer diameter. the spiked ones might be a hair thicker but they should be interchangeable with all stems. stuck glass inserts can be pushed out from the bowl end with a pencil, remove the screen first of course.

@007mm do you have another mod you can try the performance of the tubox? if it does change performance there as well its the tubox, if it runs consistent then its likely the mod. it definitely sounds like a contact problem. like something is expanding while use (maybe with heat) and then making proper contact.

 

[007mm]

@funkyjunky I don’t have another mod but I don’t have this problem with the DCv2. I ordered a couple different adapters so I’ll see how they affect my set up. If they don’t work I might try to get my hands on another mod. I get blazed with the TuboX even with this problem so I’m not in a huge rush to fix it, just something I’d like to do at some point in the future

 

[KeroZen]

Maybe @funkyjunky could tell how much you can safely adjust that 510 center pin? As I really think you are on the right track. And it doesn't necessarily take much (and as I said earlier, too much can also be detrimental, even if it sounds counter-intuitive at first, when you dig deeper into the contact resistance topic it makes more sense)

 

[Semicolon]

Hello dear Tubo community,
Let me first say how awesome everything around this device is, incl the joys i had reading this humongous thread in anticipation of. I'm going to try and explain my situation!
My tubo arrived around two weeks ago and it seems to me ive been getting the "Device too hot" message very often. I usually cant make it through one cruise session, unless drawing really slowly for most of the session. Starting a second cruise session when the first one has just ended is not something this unit can handle (even when swapping batteries). I start around 190C and end around 210-215C, over 300s, but it used to happen with 240s as well).
The coil resistance value on the battery door says 0.306, which is a pretty high number, when reading through here i was more accustomed to reading 0.185 etc, so im wondering if this is a new type of coil being used? im reaching here .
Ive updated to the latest firmware, although i believe it came shipped on this version too. Tried setting coil values to 0.343, they started glowing red instantly, setting them to 0.252 didn't to anything when vaping, so ive put it back to 306. 0.304 and 0.309 did not behave any differently, so it seems to me the values are right... should i max device's output to 50w or wont it make a diff?
Do people take slow long draws, or do you take advantage of the free draw and pull like you would an e-cig, or does it even matter? ive read about people doing 3-5 back to back sessions, so im positive it should be possible!
Is it normal to have to wait 20-40mins between each session and am i being paranoid over nothing?
Please let me know, im curious if im doing something wrong, somewhere, or if there is a possibility my device is acting weird... I think i love it, when it works, any help is appreciated.

I am having the same issue. I have had my tubo evic for a couple weeks now. I receive the device too hot message when in cruise mode whenever I set the temp at 400 or above. After receiving the message it just exits out of cruise mode.

My coil is set at the recommended value of .174. With the temp lowered to 380 or so, I can usually complete a cruise session but feel like vapor production is minimal. At what temps should I be seeing good vapor? Previously I had a mflb, which I would use a very slow draw. What sort of draw should I be using?

Also, how long should a fully charged battery last? One cruise at temps of 380 will drain my battery to 60% and attempting a second cruise yields weak battery warnings. I have ordered new batteries and an external charger to see if that helps.

I can't wait to get this dialed in, because I am sure this is an amazing vape. Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[NizzyJones]

I think it's worth trying the reduced max voltage. I never have device too hot issues. Let me see if I can remember how to do that.

Hold the fire and + buttons to get into the menu.
Navigate to interface > clicks, set one of the slots to 'Edit'.
Go back to the main screen and press the # of clicks you just set to 'Edit'.
The top line (TCR) should start to blink.
Navigate to the PWR line with the - button.
Press + to start editing, then adjust down to 45-50W, press fire to save.
(Optionally) Change your Clicks settings back to where they were.

 

[caliganja420]

I already own a Tubo and im getting ready to place an order for another unit, i have been trying to reach FunkyJunky on here and Patrick via Email, but it seems impossible to get a response?
Why is it so damn slow to communicate with the manufacture. I keep seeing all these people comment about there issues with the unit and they cant even get a reply. I understand its a killer unit, one of the best portables out there, but with such a terrible customet service, its hard to support a company like this.
Does anyone know the color of Pine? Is it lighter then Poplar? I have been trying to find out for several weeks LOL

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@Rollingstoned Well i guess sometimes life present it unexpected hurdles to everyone.. As we all know TUBO manufacturing is a one man show(NOT a company,IMO it is the companies with numerous employees and big budgets that have spoiled many of the users with their top quality service) ,who also has to run the online shop,manufacturing process (which involves a lot of activities) ,e-mail/forum communication. Also my memory might be playing me tricks but FJ has an eductation to tend to and also another job ?
I cannot really say if his business has reached the level at which he can afford to hire someone for customer support around the clock.. ,but i would at least cut him some slack having in mind the pleada of things he has on his head.IMO many people around the world are spoiled by the excelent customer service offered by the bigger com
If anyone has any tubo related issues ,feel free to PM me, i am no expert but i have experience with both TUBO and TUBOx, so i will be glad if i can be of help.

 

[Semicolon]

I think it's worth trying the reduced max voltage. I never have device too hot issues. Let me see if I can remember how to do that.

Hold the fire and + buttons to get into the menu.
Navigate to interface > clicks, set one of the slots to 'Edit'.
Go back to the main screen and press the # of clicks you just set to 'Edit'.
The top line (TCR) should start to blink.
Navigate to the PWR line with the - button.
Press + to start editing, then adjust down to 45-50W, press fire to save.
(Optionally) Change your Clicks settings back to where they were.

Thanks for the advice. I was able to get the wattage lowered, but will have to wait to try in out until tomorrow. Can you tell me how the wattage affects the performance of the unit? Will it behave any differently? Are there drawbacks to lowering it down to 50?

 

[NizzyJones]

Watching the live wattage I don't usually get it above 35-40W hitting it dry. It may take a second longer to heat up but it's still heating in like 5-10s. Either use warm up or just give the glass a couple seconds to heat soak and it's hard to overpower this heater.

 

[Azn2101]

I already own a Tubo and im getting ready to place an order for another unit, i have been trying to reach FunkyJunky on here and Patrick via Email, but it seems impossible to get a response?
Why is it so damn slow to communicate with the manufacture. I keep seeing all these people comment about there issues with the unit and they cant even get a reply. I understand its a killer unit, one of the best portables out there, but with such a terrible customet service, its hard to support a company like this.
Does anyone know the color of Pine? Is it lighter then Poplar? I have been trying to find out for several weeks LOL

It really isn't that bad man but don't get me wrong im not contradicting you, just that between adveetising, importing materials, building, ordering more parts, dealing with social media, and all that is a lot for someone.

I ordered an Apollo and even when he does get back to you Finnish is absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to translate into most other languages even fluently. It came down to caveman talk between he and I at the end; I had to sit down and think of the most simple terms to get my point across in as few, yet common, words. On my Imgur account under the same username I have my Solid Pine with an Acacia Stem. Looks amazing.

Hey quick question for all my fellow OCD'ers in the thread: How do you do light cleaning your TUBO? Theres no dark spots from ABV or anything noticable, inside or out, but I just like to clean it off before going over it with beeswax and I usually do so whenever I feel that slight smoothness go away.