TinyMight / TM 2

badbee

badbee

Well-Known Member
GoldenBud said:
yeah seems like this is what @Zuhdj needs. over time some wooden cells are getting oxidized in the unit and because wood contains a lot of tiny air pockets it shrinks or something like that...also also may be vaporized - when you smell wood, its molecules went up to your nose..... i hope/think this issue is fixed with the TM2 (the metalic contacts issue)

it's not the first time I'm hearing about this issue, not too difficult to solve imho.
Click to expand...
Are you saying the problem is that the wood shrinks a little and that makes the electrical connections loose? That makes sense, but I think oxidation of the aluminum is the main problem.
 
gangababa

gangababa

Well-Known Member
Zuhdj said:
Just pulled my tinymight out after about six months of not having batteries and it isn't working quite right. Level 10 is getting me a nice even medium brown. Which is FINE but it shouldn't take ten hits. Plus my dads tinymight does the same thing in one hit at level 6 so what's going on with my unit? How do I recalibrate the heat? I reached out to tinymight themselves but haven't heard back yet.
Click to expand...
As I understand the story, the vape was unused for six months.
Most likely your TM is exhibiting the common problem of corrosion.
Corrosion reduces the power flowing in the electrical system; sufficient corrosion can act like an off switch.
The design connects the battery to the circuit via the metal strip from the heater to the metal top cover.
This portion of the electrical circuit relies upon contact pressure between two dissimilar metals; a classic corrosion cause.
The lower metal cover also requires contact with the circuit board contact tabs.
The main screw is the source of the required contact pressure.
There is a lot of how-to advice on the forum explaining how to scuff up the contacts to improve the current flow.
 
RustyOldNail

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
SolidAirrr said:
which is perfectly explained/shown in the aforeposted vid... though it leaves out mentioning some (o-ring) details... (:
Click to expand...

I honestly don’t remember if he mentions “dissimilar metals”, that’s what I was replying to, as that plus oxygen and amps and heat, are the main factors, shimming should not be needed if the materials were chosen correctly. I’m sure the TM creator realized this at some point, and hopefully the TM2 has addressed this as well as a few other improvements. I look forward to getting one.

BTW: I have yet to experience a heat fall off on my now old TM, and have never had to touch the main bottom screw, though I did take one apart for a friend that had the internal glass sleeve came broken on delivery. Has to ship it back for repair, as I was not going to try rebuilding the heater coils on a new unit.
 
Vaporific

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
So let me ask this: the slightly loosening of the screw and tightening it again to fix temporary power loss - would this address the contact point under he top plate, either moved or oxidized, or the potential shrinking of the wood due to operation? Or perhaps both? Hmmm.

I think the oxidation on the contact point is the issue but it’s plausible both, contact point movement and wood shrinkage for lack of a better term, are at play here. Assuming the screw is tight as possible nothing should be moving inside (except the button of course and the haptic motor). It’s possible over time however inserting and removing stems may loosen the screw ever so slightly thereby minimizing the contact point. I however think this is rare and it is oxidation of some sort. Wood may shrink, heck even burn, under high temps but I think there’s enough insulation and protection within the TM for this to happen.

It’s an age-old debate/discussion and I’m curious to the root-cause (which I deal with daily for work in software development). I’ve shimmed my top contact yet still have had to loosen the screw and tighten it a few time to restore power a few times. I’ve also disassembled my TM several times and I don’t think the he wood has shrunk or appears different under the contact point. If anything loosening & retightening the screw would more closely address movement of the contact point and perhaps oxidation of it by resetting the position of it after retightening.

Now what did I just babble clear-headed and not under the influence? :) Woke up and had to opine a bit on this interesting and pervasive topic. Weekend regards to all.:peace:
 
gangababa

gangababa

Well-Known Member
SolidAirrr said:
which is perfectly explained/shown in the aforeposted vid... though it leaves out mentioning some (o-ring) details... (:
Click to expand...
I have just watched the video. Show and tell is good.

If I were engineering a fix, I would use spring pressure to replace the shim.
I'd drill an appropriately sized small blind hole down into the wood under the heater contact strip.
In the closed-bottom hole I'd place a spring (think retractable ball point pen) with a small ball bearing on top.
Rightly sized, the ball would be half-exposed before tightening the unit, thus compressing the spring, applying pressure against the strip.

Then every time it was disassembled the spring and ball would go flying and get lost, like so often happened to my car dash switches.
Forget the ball.
 
S

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
sickmanfraud,
  • Like
Reactions: Tweakz
VGOODIEZ

VGOODIEZ

Home of the Heavies
Retailer
sickmanfraud said:
@VGOODIEZ how hot is the end of the Titanium stem? Do the length of the Ti stem and ditanium tip provide some cooling? or at least cooler feel on the lips?

Would you recommend the "cooling option" of glass beads like you suggest for the Eds TNT stem?
Click to expand...
It definitely gets warm at the high temps and prolonged sessions. The WPA adapter helps a bit with the cooling but its still absorbing heat and will get warm. I'll have to do a side by side with the other options. I like the look of the Titanium, it works with the existing accessories, is easy to clean and it's durable so I think I could be sticking with it either way.
 
badbee

badbee

Well-Known Member
VGOODIEZ said:
It definitely gets warm at the high temps and prolonged sessions. The WPA adapter helps a bit with the cooling but its still absorbing heat and will get warm. I'll have to do a side by side with the other options. I like the look of the Titanium, it works with the existing accessories, is easy to clean and it's durable so I think I could be sticking with it either way.
Click to expand...
What's the wall thickness of that TI stem?
 
badbee,
  • Like
Reactions: VGOODIEZ
M

Marlox

Well-Known Member
davap84 said:
Thanks for your european attention.

PS : do you have the adress of a good gas supplier in EU ? :brow:
Click to expand...
Just do a search for "cellulose coton" or "viscose coton", in german it's called "Zellulose-Watte", "Viskose-Watte" or even "Kunstseide"
It is just like cotton, but made of cellulose, e.g. from wood.
But be aware, there are chemicals involved for making that stuff, and every manufacturer can do it a different way
 
Marlox,
  • Like
Reactions: endof3d
SirGanjaVapeAlot

SirGanjaVapeAlot

Well-Known Member
So my Ed's TnT Blackwood and my HA Terp Pill stem have finally passed through the dreaded customs! (cost as much as one of them to release the package)

I also bought some quartz beads to fill the Blackwood stem with using the disassembled cooling unit. Has anyone counted out how many balls should be in the stem? or rather is there a certain number where they start getting crunched?
 
SirGanjaVapeAlot,
dzoinp

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
cosimo said:
starter pack includes titanium stem!!
Click to expand...
What???
That means my business went down the drain...
Now that I had ordered a truckload of titanium rods:doh:


PXL-20220219-163109852-PORTRAIT.jpg






:rofl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom