TinyMight / TM 2

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Morning everyone, so just yesterday my TM was working fine and then all of a sudden it stopped producing vapor.. even at the highest temp with varies pull/inhale method. Everything is turning on. I noticed that on temp 8.5 it buzz relatively quick… any thoughts?
This definitely sounds like a contact issue, not a temp adjust issue. The first thing I would try is to clean the battery door. Then unscrew the screw a few turns and jostle the caps around a bit then retighten the screw. These are the simplest effective fixes to try first. Let us know if they work and if they don't we will go on to other fixes. Temp range adjustment is the last thing to try unless you saw the solid white light and constant buzz that shows you are in temp adjust mode.
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
Hmmmm... Not to make things awkward or anything but I would say a sudden drop in performance is accidental recalibration or an air leak. Contact issues, at least IME, are always a gradual decline in performance.

Best thing to do is check everything. Clean and/or shim the contacts, inspect the stem holder o ring, and inspect the o ring that sits between the glass liner and the top plate. If that's no good then recalibrate.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Nothing awkward about a different opinion. I will only add that the last person I discussed this with offline had gone ahead and did the Temp Adjust thing and thought he had resolution of his problem. The next time he used his TM the contact issue had resolved itself (banging around in his bag I think), and he immediately combusted. Just sayin...
 

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
All of this cleaning contacts talk made me realize I had not done any major cleaning on my DD and man was it funky dirty ! I knew it helped when I screwed in battery cap and it vibrated extremely loud! So regardless of problem clean your battery cap and hole, both lids and the contacts along the frame of the circuit board. Oh yeah and the contacts on the board and the ones for vibration motor. Easy to do and makes your baby run great! Hope it helps.
 

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
I have not cleaned contacts on the board other than the ones for the haptic motor. Other than that fix I haven't needed to access the inside of the TM at all yet. You are, of course, a special case... :lol:
correct friends GIF
 

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
Tinymight has been a little disappointing the past few weeks… took it apart, made sure the rings were all there and bent the metal tab up a bit. Wow! I’m impressed again :)
IMO I think it’s fair to say due to that single screw and how much it affects, TM users may need tear down and clean and rebuild (now not much as me) to get your baby back up to par. For me it’s not a problem, like adjusting a carburetor on a car ( if you youngins understand lol) tweak tweak and VROOM VROOM!
 
Got my Tinymight!

I'm not sure if this is common knowledge and I just missed it but the small wooden user guides don't even list it - there's actually two silent modes, vibration or LED. The first time you do the steps to enable silent mode, vibration will be disabled. Do it immediately again, and vibration turns back on but the LEDs turn off. Now that's stealth - weird that vibration is the first setting.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
That used to be the *only* stealth setting. Someone here asked for vibration with no lights and that was added. If you ever use an early unit that hasn’t been updated it will only turn the vibration off.

Turning the light off seems like a more useful stealth mode to me too though.
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
I do not need any more vaporizers !! This is why I am going to place an order for another TM. I would like to eliminate the cooling units. PITA to keep clean. I don't like my glass and CU to become dirty so I remove the CU and soak it with the glass stem in ISO. I do this quite frequently. I've broken 3 glass stems while removing/replacing the CU.

There are many posts about J hooks (thanks Snacks). In order to use the J hook should I also add the adapter (TM site says "works with 10/14/18 mm")?

Two things I like a lot about the CU is that I (1) can adjust the amount of flower in the stem by moving the CU backward or forward. Is this still an option with the J hook. And (2) the CU seems to cool the vapor very well.
 

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
Two things I like a lot about the CU is that I (1) can adjust the amount of flower in the stem by moving the CU backward or forward. Is this still an option with the J hook. And (2) the CU seems to cool the vapor very well
Not with the multi wpa it has a glass screen. The 18mm wpa can use the cu or a basket screen allowing for a adjustable bowl, multi wpa only will hold between .05-.1 depends on grind
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
Not with the multi wpa it has a glass screen. The 18mm wpa can use the cu or a basket screen allowing for a adjustable bowl, multi wpa only will hold between .05-.1 depends on grind
Is the basket screen the one offered by TM?
 
Bazinga,
  • Like
Reactions: Cheebsy

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I would like to eliminate the cooling units. PITA to keep clean. I don't like my glass and CU to become dirty so I remove the CU and soak it with the glass stem in ISO.
I’ve recently removed the nuts & washers from my cooling units as a compromise. Easier to clean and still provided some cooling. In concert with this ive been using my TM (and all my other vapes too) on lower temps. Less clouds on lower temps but still works very well. :peace:
 

Bazinga

Well-Known Member
I’ve recently removed the nuts & washers from my cooling units as a compromise. Easier to clean and still provided some cooling. In concert with this ive been using my TM (and all my other vapes too) on lower temps. Less clouds on lower temps but still works very well. :peace:
I usually start out at level 5 and temp step up to 9.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I do not need any more vaporizers !! This is why I am going to place an order for another TM. I would like to eliminate the cooling units. PITA to keep clean. I don't like my glass and CU to become dirty so I remove the CU and soak it with the glass stem in ISO. I do this quite frequently. I've broken 3 glass stems while removing/replacing the CU.

There are many posts about J hooks (thanks Snacks). In order to use the J hook should I also add the adapter (TM site says "works with 10/14/18 mm")?

Two things I like a lot about the CU is that I (1) can adjust the amount of flower in the stem by moving the CU backward or forward. Is this still an option with the J hook. And (2) the CU seems to cool the vapor very well.

Nice! My man, get one of each WPA or more, I love the multi WPA and its glass honeycomb screen to use with whole nugs or chunky coarse grind, amazing flavors through hooks or dry bubblers this way... But I also really rely on my RBT stems is backwards WPA, so I have to recommend the regular WPA from TM as well since it is essentially the same thing, most of my stuff is 18mm anyway, and then you have full adjustment of the basket screen etc can even use the cooling unit if you want!

You can also try 4 mm or larger rubies or glass beads for additional cooling instead of the cooling unit btw, but yeah the best is going to be a hook imo, especially one that has right angle bends (like from Oregon Glass Blower) but cheap ones are also pretty effective (like from Rogue Wax Works)

This brings me ask if the extra long stem works as well as the J hook?

No but it depends on the J hook, get the extra long stem if you like the looks of it, it is a fun way to mix it up! Potentially ergonomically challenging though...

I also obviously don't know how your TM is tuned, but I always start at the lowest possible setting and am ending around level 5 or so with my newer TM... Milking those low temps in dry glass pieces tastes so good and the vapor is still very thick!!
 
Top Bottom