TinyMight / TM 2

[Pib]

Will you be replacing it with the same or different stem?

I'm thinking about jumping on the j-hook train, at the moment the grav upline taster is doing its job really well.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Good Vibes Boro has new TM stems available, I don't think there were any stem hooks this drop though

 

[davesmith]

Probably not annealed properly. Annealing bungs the price up as it uses a lot of energy for a relatively long time (some things may even anneal for weeks, even months), and this is why a new bit of glass that's cheap, is almost always cheap for a reason. There's really no other way to make glass strong and fairly flaw free. Better to pay more, buy less and choose carefully.

If the stem contained soft glass beads (or some other unknown material) it definitely won’t have been annealed as the soft glass beads would fuse together at the temps used to anneal borosilicate glass.

 

[General Disaster]

If the stem contained soft glass beads (or some other unknown material) it definitely won’t have been annealed as the soft glass beads would fuse together at the temps used to anneal borosilicate glass.

Been a VERY long time since I did glassblowing, and that was basic stuff for wet lab glassware, so I never messed with stuff like beads etc, but I would imagine a competent blower could add the beads after the annealing and then simply add a minor restriction to the inlet path to retain them. In general it's the joints (pun not intended) that have the most need for good annealing.
Also, they could choose beads of a material with a higher melting point than the glass of the device itself, the real problem would be they may stick to that low melting point glass the device is made of.

Also, annealing can be anything from a few minutes in a soft flame, to months in a carefully controlled oven on a gradual reduction of temperature (e.g. with optics to gain a consistent light path). It's about annealing in the correct way for the type of material and it's ultimate use.
My point is simply that better annealing costs money and no way round that, and cheap glass will inevitably not have that correct manufacture and hence be too liable to breakage.

Letting glass cool down naturally in open air will introduce serious flaws and be highly prone to accidents - no competent manufacturer would sell crap like that, but some do, and plenty people buy it then regret it.

 

[davesmith]

Been a VERY long time since I did glassblowing, and that was basic stuff for wet lab glassware, so I never messed with stuff like beads etc, but I would imagine a competent blower could add the beads after the annealing and then simply add a minor restriction to the inlet path to retain them. In general it's the joints (pun not intended) that have the most need for good annealing.
Also, they could choose beads of a material with a higher melting point than the glass of the device itself, the real problem would be they may stick to that low melting point glass the device is made of.

Also, annealing can be anything from a few minutes in a soft flame, to months in a carefully controlled oven on a gradual reduction of temperature (e.g. with optics to gain a consistent light path). It's about annealing in the correct way for the type of material and it's ultimate use.
My point is simply that better annealing costs money and no way round that, and cheap glass will inevitably not have that correct manufacture and hence be too liable to breakage.

Letting glass cool down naturally in open air will introduce serious flaws and be highly prone to accidents - no competent manufacturer would sell crap like that, but some do, and plenty people buy it then regret it.

Sadly adding the beads after then “adding a restriction” will add stress to that part of the piece, as heating it to add the restriction re-introduces stress due to heat and the deformation of the surface.

Ideally you would just use borosilicate balls, the same COE etc of the piece itself. The problem is the production of boro beads is far far more time consuming than soft glass, and even with Chinese manufacturing the difference is noticeable.

Beads made of a material other than boro would be a possibility assuming it’s still annealed, but ofc I can’t comment on that as it’s not my area of expertise. They won’t stick to the boro assuming you don’t heat the boro molten with them in it!

I will just say, import glass serves a purpose and sometimes it’s definitely worth more than what you pay. The main problem is inconsistent QC and lack of attention to detail (unpolished slits in pieces is a personal pet hate). I personally would prefer to support a craftsperson and for something as spiritual as cannabis consumption having pieces made with love means a lot to me. That said I sell aforementioned glassware so don’t take my words as gospel! Whatever works for you and your usage is what works!

 

[General Disaster]

Sadly adding the beads after then “adding a restriction” will add stress to that part of the piece, as heating it to add the restriction re-introduces stress due to heat and the deformation of the surface.

Hence my comment about the joints being the most vulnerable parts. Also parts that may be exposed to high temp changes such as where a cap and head may meet the glass (especially if metal touches glass). But the part near the mouthpiece, for instance, isn't going to receive that much stress unless dropped, the weakness introduced by a gentle softening just to add a small pinch, and then doing a hand-anneal with a low flame is hardly going to be as bad as not annealing the whole thing just so you can add the balls before hand?

But in the end, someone who actually makes these will be best positioned to answer definitively. As I said, I haven't got that experience although I know small scale glass fractionating columns will often use this method of adding after the main anneal.

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

This glass discussion stemmed from questions about the build quality of the rocket stems that are made for devices like the TM. I believe someone else mentioned this, but the beads in the unit I bought from Sneaky Pete look solid with no holes. They are reddish in color, but can't confirm if they are a type of ruby. The glass walls also seem fairly thick for a stem of this type. I've been pretty happy with the function and build quality. I'm sure there are Chinese knock-offs of cheaper quality, since I've seen this design used with other vapes, but SP usually carries good stuff.

In addition, for a jhook experience I would always recommend the 18mm wpa from RogueWW and a matching right angled jhook from OGB. https://oregonglassblower.com/shop/ols/categories/14mm-mouthpieces-and-j-hooks

 

[RustyOldNail]

They are reddish in color, but can't confirm if they are a type of ruby.

Doubt they are real “Ruby”, the price would be higher….

The ones with “holes” are cheap glass designed for making hobby necklaces.

 

[General Disaster]

Doubt they are real “Ruby”, the price would be higher….

The ones with “holes” are cheap glass designed for making hobby necklaces.

Difficult to judge I think, unless you mean natural ruby (which I'd guess are unlikely to be better anyway), as I believe synthetic rubies are moderately cheap and easy to manufacture, and as far as their physical properties are perfectly good for their use.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Difficult to judge I think, unless you mean natural ruby (which I'd guess are unlikely to be better anyway), as I believe synthetic rubies are moderately cheap and easy to manufacture, and as far as their physical properties are perfectly good for their use.

Pretty sure they just meant, they're likely a red colored glass of some kind, not rubies... Most of us would agree there's no difference between the natural and synthetic rubies for our purposes anyway... And there's also really no reason to use rubies for cooling, just in heaters, and they also cost more

 

[RustyOldNail]

and they also cost more

That was my POINT…..

 

[General Disaster]

Pretty sure they just meant, they're likely a red colored glass of some kind, not rubies... Most of us would agree there's no difference between the natural and synthetic rubies for our purposes anyway... And there's also really no reason to use rubies for cooling, just in heaters, and they also cost more

If I had to guess, I'd imagine something like SiC would be better for cooling, high heat conduction, high density, so it can suck up heat quickly, and hold a fair old bit too. I think from memory ruby's are lower conduction so take longer to heat/cool. I wonder if stainless steel bearings would work well?

 

[davesmith]

This glass discussion stemmed from questions about the build quality of the rocket stems that are made for devices like the TM. I believe someone else mentioned this, but the beads in the unit I bought from Sneaky Pete look solid with no holes. They are reddish in color, but can't confirm if they are a type of ruby. The glass walls also seem fairly thick for a stem of this type. I've been pretty happy with the function and build quality. I'm sure there are Chinese knock-offs of cheaper quality, since I've seen this design used with other vapes, but SP usually carries good stuff.

In addition, for a jhook experience I would always recommend the 18mm wpa from RogueWW and a matching right angled jhook from OGB. https://oregonglassblower.com/shop/ols/categories/14mm-mouthpieces-and-j-hooks

Just so we are clear sneaky pete is using chinese manufacturing. They may have better quality control and work closely with the factory’s but it’s still Chinese made (not hating everything’s made in china these days anyway)

Hence my comment about the joints being the most vulnerable parts. Also parts that may be exposed to high temp changes such as where a cap and head may meet the glass (especially if metal touches glass). But the part near the mouthpiece, for instance, isn't going to receive that much stress unless dropped, the weakness introduced by a gentle softening just to add a small pinch, and then doing a hand-anneal with a low flame is hardly going to be as bad as not annealing the whole thing just so you can add the balls before hand?

But in the end, someone who actually makes these will be best positioned to answer definitively. As I said, I haven't got that experience although I know small scale glass fractionating columns will often use this method of adding after the main anneal.

I “actually make them” without wanting to bore the tits off everyone. Firstly the heat from a vape won’t be enough to introduce stress to any fully annealed glass. Secondly even if you flame annealed the top it would just move the stress down the piece to where it’s not flame annealed (even if previously annealed) Properly annealed glass must all be held at the same temp until the stress is relieved, and cooled at the same rate (dependant on its thickness). When a piece isn’t properly annealed it may last forever, it may pop randomly sat on a shelf one day, I’ve experienced both. Luckily for a lot of our purposes the glass we are using is more than strong enough, and the fact that a lot of Chinese work isn’t annealed proves that.

 

[Sto.Oned]

Anyone tried this battery?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyNAvLa

I know I should just buy molicel, but for the crazy prices pumping up and because I want to try new things, I searched for the best aliexpress batteries and this comes out.
For my electronic cigarettes I received another kind 2 weeks ago and works perfectly.
On tm I tried this 35A and work almost well.
I can make 3-5 hits (very strong, so not low powered), but then after 10-15 seconds (just 5-6 seconds after reaching temperature) it vibrates and turn off (like when the battery is discharged) .
But the battery is not still low, in fact it vibrates 3 times. So I think that it happens because it can't hold the power when it's not fully charged, right?
I can expect that in the future it will always works 100% in the first shots, and then it work just the first 15 seconds, right?
I can't complaint, as in these 15 seconds I have the time to make almost a hit.
As backup battery should be perfect, if it will not start to turn off straight away when it's fully charged.

 

[General Disaster]

I “actually make them” without wanting to bore the tits off everyone. Firstly the heat from a vape won’t be enough to introduce stress to any fully annealed glass. Secondly even if you flame annealed the top it would just move the stress down the piece to where it’s not flame annealed (even if previously annealed) Properly annealed glass must all be held at the same temp until the stress is relieved, and cooled at the same rate (dependant on its thickness). When a piece isn’t properly annealed it may last forever, it may pop randomly sat on a shelf one day, I’ve experienced both. Luckily for a lot of our purposes the glass we are using is more than strong enough, and the fact that a lot of Chinese work isn’t annealed proves that.

Then you know better than I, though I was taught to be pragmatic about it, and to focus the annealing at the places where the stresses were more likely to occur, which is why I mentioned the joints and the fact the mouthpiece is less of an issue than them.
I bow to your experience! To be honest my original point was just that better annealing gives better strength but costs more (energy x time).

 

[davesmith]

To be honest my original point was just that better annealing gives better strength but costs more (energy x time).

All good dude and the above is very true.

 

[666Honeybadger]

Anyone tried this battery?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyNAvLa

I know I should just buy molicel, but for the crazy prices pumping up and because I want to try new things, I searched for the best aliexpress batteries and this comes out.
For my electronic cigarettes I received another kind 2 weeks ago and works perfectly.
On tm I tried this 35A and work almost well.
I can make 3-5 hits (very strong, so not low powered), but then after 10-15 seconds (just 5-6 seconds after reaching temperature) it vibrates and turn off (like when the battery is discharged) .
But the battery is not still low, in fact it vibrates 3 times. So I think that it happens because it can't hold the power when it's not fully charged, right?
I can expect that in the future it will always works 100% in the first shots, and then it work just the first 15 seconds, right?
I can't complaint, as in these 15 seconds I have the time to make almost a hit.
As backup battery should be perfect, if it will not start to turn off straight away when it's fully charged.

Mmmkay, if you can't complain when your (new) battery behaves like that who am i to complain about it?
If you're fine with a battery that "almost works well" that makes your vape run out of power after one bowl then go for it!
For me this would be no option tbh. I go crazy when my vape switches off mid bowl.
Also keep in mind that it will perform even worse as it ages (possibly not even capable of heating the TM to temp after some usage) so i'd guess that it will have a short (and very unfullfilling) lifespan.

But to be totally honest: i don't get it?

These cost €3,41 a piece? That's not really a sharp price is it? Especially for a 'crappy' battery (at least crappy for this device).
Makes me wonder what 'crazy prices' you are paying for molicel? For me the price difference is pretty minimal while the performance seems terrible by the sound of it.

 

[General Disaster]

I know I should just buy molicel

Not to mention it could be a bit dangerous. As far as I understand, the molicels are not only high capacity, but specially designed for high output, it ain't just the amps, but how many a second. And over stressing a less high specced battery could cause it to overheat with possibly, er, interesting results! If you're going to pay TM2 prices, then cheap out on a battery, what the hell you thinking? Cheap batteries are cheap for a reason. The TM's are high powered units hitting the limits, these aren't the things to skimp on.

 

[Vaporific]

So, there’s Dry January related to alcohol. For me, unfortunately, it’s been a dry January for cannabis and my hiatus continues. There may be some light at the end of the tunnel but it’s too soon to tell. How I miss my PH TM2 and OG Tinymights mightily!! Perhaps soon. Strangely I’ve not slept well for weeks and it’s likely not a coincidence. At least I did remove and charge the batteries that were in them; I didn’t want them in the vapes for that long unused.

Hope everyone is doing well and enjoying the best vape on the planet. I do miss my TMs!

 

[bobothevaper]

Has anyone tried this one yet? Is it worth the money?

Infinity Stem long pour Tinymight - TS Wooden Art

Embout buccal premium en bois exotique, acier inoxydable et verre borosilicate pour un refroidissement avancé avec votre vaporisateur Tinymight ou Tinymight 2.

lacentralevapeur.com

PS: Late to the party got a TM2 by chance. Had been avoiding it for a while. But man. This thing fucks. Well done.

 

[666Honeybadger]

Has anyone tried this one yet? Is it worth the money?

Infinity Stem long pour Tinymight - TS Wooden Art

Embout buccal premium en bois exotique, acier inoxydable et verre borosilicate pour un refroidissement avancé avec votre vaporisateur Tinymight ou Tinymight 2.

lacentralevapeur.com

PS: Late to the party got a TM2 by chance. Had been avoiding it for a while. But man. This thing fucks. Well done.

I have not. First time i see it.
Am a bit confused to see that wooden 'stopper' inside the stem tbh. What an idea to put a piece of (cooling?) wood in the middle of the vaporpath?
Why?
It will gunk up with reclaim in no time and i wonder how one has to clean that part to get rid of the taste/flavor/smell.

Also wonder about the pinched part of the glass stem: on the picture it looks like the hole is already blocked by one of the balls? LoL
It's probably (hopefully) just the picture that makes it look like that?

PS: Late to the party got a TM2 by chance. Had been avoiding it for a while. But man. This thing fucks. Well done.

Never too late, mate!
And yes: TM2 is the real thing, innit!

 

[bobothevaper]

Looks like its to force the vapor through the small holes. I want it but it’s pricey if only on a whim. Can easily get that long ball stem instead but it’s not as fun to look at.

Edit: there’s also a simrell spiral thingy inside of you look at insta https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5Gev8lvWxV/?igsh=MWgzempxbGNtYjgydw==

 

[General Disaster]

Am a bit confused to see that wooden 'stopper' inside the stem tbh. What an idea to put a piece of (cooling?) wood in the middle of the vaporpath?
Why?
It will gunk up with reclaim in no time and i wonder how one has to clean that part to get rid of the taste/flavor/smell.

Only speaking from general principles so I may be totally off the mark, but wood is a pretty good insulator, and as such should not only keep the vapour from declining temperature as much as glass or metal would, but as a side effect of that should see much less of the vapour condensing on the sides of the wooden part of the path.

But that really is a generalisation just going on basic material, just mentioned as you may be wrong about how bad it could be for cleaning etc.

 

[Vaporific]

Edit: there’s also a simrell spiral thingy inside of you look at insta

I was apprised of the Simrell cooling style a while back by some on this thread (and others I follow - funny how lots of the same folks hang out on the threads we follow). I want to try that in some shape or form for my TMs as I think it would work really well. However I’ll try to avoid wood as I love using glass or acrylic. I’m a big native style user, seldom go through water or use hooks. New stems varieties seem like they’re fun and fit my usage well.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I was apprised of the Simrell cooling style a while back by some on this thread (and others I follow - funny how lots of the same folks hang out on the threads we follow). I want to try that in some shape or form for my TMs as I think it would work really well. However I’ll try to avoid wood as I love using glass or acrylic. I’m a big native style user, seldom go through water or use hooks. New stems varieties seem like they’re fun and fit my usage well.

I have used an old Simrell stem with the stock TM “short” glass stem. More info here:

TinyMight / TM 2

So, I don't know about yours but, my TM2 is kinda perfect. It has no flaws. I am seeing this correctly, right? I had my TM1.5 out and I was staring at them both...they improved the 1.5 so well to the 2.0 what else is there? Even the stir stick we bitched about. I agree, mine works very well...

fuckcombustion.com

&

TinyMight / TM 2

Airistech mini-bubbler. Nice! that is a great find. Does it fit nicely? Where do you order it from?

fuckcombustion.com