Nice! that is a great find. Does it fit nicely? Where do you order it from?Airistech mini-bubbler.
Nice! that is a great find. Does it fit nicely? Where do you order it from?Airistech mini-bubbler.
Hmm... It would be better overall if they included a WPA instead of a second, longer glass stem.If purchased directly from Tinymight, the titanium stem is no longer included. Instead, you get the 80mm glass stem. I just received one without the ti stem and was told the change is because the additional weight of the ti stem makes shipping more expensive.
was told the change is because the additional weight of the ti stem makes shipping more expensive.
Hello RustyOldNail, is it a Simrell ?!!!! Which model ?!!!!! How did you make it fit with the glass stem of the TM ?
Hello RustyOldNail, is it a Simrell ?!!!! Which model ?!!!!! How did you make it fit with the glass stem of the TM ?
Very intrigued ! And especially how does it compare to orignal glass (long) stem ????
Thanks for this explanation ! I've been wanting to buy a Simrell MVS for a long time so this can decide me .......It’s a Simrell MVS stem, I discovered that the “spare” black Simrell orings fit perfectly on the (2) circular cutouts on the end of the MVS stem, I don’t know if these cutouts are decorative or functional on purpose. I’ve tried many different cooling methods and while playing around, found that with the orings, which you can leave on all the time even when using the MVS for DV use, as they are tiny, and the stem still looks good, FIT PERFECTLY in the STOCK TM GLASS STEM. I rub a bit of “nose grease” on the orings, and the MVS slides right in the stem.
On the load end, I still like to use just the very end of the STOCK TM CU. Take the CU apart, with all the nuts and washers, store them, and use just the HALF that has the SCREEN, use it the same way as originally designed as you can still slide it up and down to adjust the load size. The MVS will now do all the cooling, and it’s easy to clean the “vortex”, from the MVS.
I also have a simple wood Simrell Cocobolo Vortex stem, that has the same two cutouts and also fits perfectly in the TM stem, with the Simrell orings added. My original Titanium Simrell Vortex, does NOT have any cutout grooves, so I use that for my Grasshopper IO.
So far I’ve found these combos give me the coolest vapor, easy to clean, no hassles with basket screens etc. as well as giving more uses for these expensive stems. The MVS system has a lot of applications and I enjoy it, as well as my Revolve stems, but they have a few more uses on other devices.
but just a question: does it cost half the tm2 and won't it limit air draft too much?
Just hit that. The stock goes quick!Huge drop on TRWW mp's.
I think what @bardad wanted to know is : does the airflow is more restricted with the Simrell versus airflow with OG stem.I don’t understand the question. As I can’t comment on your inhalation expectations. I find the resistance matches my inhalation for this device. Buying an expensive MVS, is probably only worth it if you use it for DV use as well.
I think what @bardad wanted to know is : does the airflow is more restricted with the Simrell versus airflow with OG stem.
It seems a lot of people don't really like the TI stem. My guess is that they want to stop paying for the inclusion of a stem that doesn't drive demand the way they hoped it would.If purchased directly from Tinymight, the titanium stem is no longer included. Instead, you get the 80mm glass stem. I just received one without the ti stem and was told the change is because the additional weight of the ti stem makes shipping more expensive.
I charge externally. When I'm inserting a fresh battery, I always hold my TM2 horizontally and very gently slide the battery in until it makes contact with the bottom before tipping it vertical to reinstall the cap.The battery pretty roughly hits this little metal part which converts the impact directly to the underlaying pcb. I fear that the constant impact of the battery impacting on the pcb can weaken some solder joints over the time. So I veeeery carefully slide the battery in each time. Any tips?
Have you checked if your temp dial isn't on 1? About the warranty registration, mine has been pending since 4. january. Guess TM team is busy now, but if you need to have the device to service I bet they are available, helpfull and quick to answer over e-mail or phone.Hi!
Got the TM2 a little over 2 weeks now.
Two things:
I typed in the details on their website to register the device for the 10 year warranty. Its still on "pending". Is it normal for this process to take a longer time?
I had to do it twice actually, the first time I filled in the form tha date of buying had a glitch and came out as somewhen in 2004. So I had to do this again so it listet the correct date. I hope this didnt caused any confusion.
Other thing, yesterday after now the longest time I didnt use the device (something like 6 hours or so) it didnt turn on
No light no vibration nothing, I hadnt touched it and the battery cover was properly closed.
Opened the battery cover, tightened again and it registered the battery again and continues to function normal.
I am an incredible anxious person and I had so many sleepless nights about deciding if I wanted to buy the TM2 because of all the problems of TM1. I am always the person with bad luck getting a bad unit, everytime with everything.
I was with the Mighty OG now for about 6 years, served me well still works - but also falls apart.
So it was very hard for me not to go with a fresh Mighty+ and instead choose the TM2 because its more powerful (and fucking beautiful)
I had so many fears about it failing on me (and I have very little money)
But the 10 year warranty just sold me in the end. Looked like there cant go anything wrong here.
But now the warranty doesnt register on the side and the device randomly didnt turned on ((
Something I maybe missed here?
That moment it didnt turned on I was so filled with fear and anxiety it was like a nightmare coming true ((
Another thing, do you charge the device via USB C or do you take out the battery everytime to be charged in an external charger?
It should be less stress for the device, in my logic, if I dont let the onboard PCB charging circuit do the job and go for external charger.
But: the bottom part af the battery part doesnt have a "spring" like I expected. The battery pretty roughly hits this little metal part which converts the impact directly to the underlaying pcb. I fear that the constant impact of the battery impacting on the pcb can weaken some solder joints over the time. So I veeeery carefully slide the battery in each time. Any tips?
Edit: Oh and to make it clear: I LOOOOOOOOVE everything else about the device. Thats why I bond with it so quickly I got an instant emotional connection to that little thing. I just like to hold it look at it and just enjoy its appearance and existance, fills me with joy that a beatiful peace of engineering like this exists and does what it does. Vape of my dreams.
Although I don't use it, I've heard people say that the TM crew is very responsive on InstaGram.Have you checked if your temp dial isn't on 1? About the warranty registration, mine has been pending since 4. january. Guess TM team is busy now, but if you need to have the device to service I bet they are available, helpfull and quick to answer over e-mail or phone.
I charge externally, but primarily for convenience and ability to control the charging rate. In terms of wear and tear on the battery and device, however, I suspect that removing the battery each time is more likely to cause an issue as opposed to "stressing" the device by charging internally. For example, you could cross-thread the cap or over tighten it, drop the battery into the device too hard damaging the contact, etc. I also think opening the battery door regularly makes it more likely that the cap will need periodic cleaning.Another thing, do you charge the device via USB C or do you take out the battery everytime to be charged in an external charger?
It should be less stress for the device, in my logic, if I dont let the onboard PCB charging circuit do the job and go for external charger.
But: the bottom part af the battery part doesnt have a "spring" like I expected. The battery pretty roughly hits this little metal part which converts the impact directly to the underlaying pcb. I fear that the constant impact of the battery impacting on the pcb can weaken some solder joints over the time. So I veeeery carefully slide the battery in each time. Any tips?
Do you have like 1/4 of the battery after that session? Not sure when to start charging for optimal battery longevity. I usually charge when it switch to blue or purple light, as the vapor produced on the same temp dial is reduced. Probably not the best way to handle batteries and device.The bottom line for me is I don't want the device running out of charge mid-session, so when a session starts with two buzzes, I charge externally once that session is complete.
So, rimmed basket screens; what can we say about rimmed basket screens?
Well, first of all Tinymight offers a rimmed basket screen (RBM) that fits their long cooling stem.
But, that RBS does not fit the Tinymight stems, long, short, nor titanium; it is too small and screen falls out of the stem.
This is true also of the GRAV stems.
Others, like Amazon sell RBS, however it is commonly reported that 16mm diameter RBS get caught on the O-ring when removed from the heater.
From Amazon I acquired 15 screens advertised as 15.8 mm diameter, and am using them. The O-ring catches them too, most of the time.
Thus, I have developed the habit of removing the metal ring and removing the stem and oven liner as a unit.
The photo below shows the 15.8mm diameter with a Tinymight RBS on it to show the slight size difference. The two screen rims are both touching the glass stem. The diameter difference is half of the seen forward edge difference.