TinyMight / TM 2

[Joie de Vivre]

Some users had complained about the fit of components and quality of the internal build. There is a noticeably asymmetrical gap between the body and the base on mine. "More robustness" sounds like perhaps they dealt with all that.

1) I tried to get the vapor path unit out but the screen has what looks like a retaining ring that I don't see in the diagram.

Could that be ABV?

 

[andrew`124c41+]

Could that be ABV?

What is the ABV?

 

[Joie de Vivre]

Already Been Vaped weed, or more specifically reclaim/hash oil in this case, forming a ring around the mesh. If it's all you've been using you'll likely find those parts practically welded by it. I prefer the long cooling stem.

 

[andrew`124c41+]

Already Been Vaped weed, or more specifically reclaim/hash oil in this case, forming a ring around the mesh. If it's all you've been using you'll likely find those parts practically welded by it. I prefer the long cooling stem.

Here is a picture.

I also edited the list there are some other questions as well.

TM.jpg

drive.google.com

 

[Joie de Vivre]

Sorry, my mistake. I thought you meant the cooling unit in the stem. I don't get what you're doing.

 

[Shit Snacks]

A couple of questions. I just got this around Christmas. I don't use the cooling stem/unit at this point, just the WPA.

1) I tried to get the vapor path unit out but the screen has what looks like a retaining ring that I don't see in the diagram.

That is not the vapor path, it is actually part of the air path if anything, you're talking about the The metal tube that is below the retainer ring and o-ring... The screen below, is the heater screen, and yes it is held in with a retainer ring...

I did get what is designated as the mesh holder out but it looks like there is still a ring holding the mesh. How to get it out?

There is no reason to take the mesh out of the ring really, it is just friction fit though... Sized right.

2) The directions mention putting the ring back, #4 with the wider flange upward but I don't see how it makes a difference.

Yeah some of us have been putting the wider side down actually, because it could protect even further from any risk of the screen being pushed down onto the heater

Frankly, it does not look like this gets very dirty but I have not gotten the screen out yet.

Correct this pretty much does not get dirty at all, there is constantly hot air passing through it to clean it and if you are careful loading it is just extra protection for crumbs getting onto the heater, typically crumbs don't fall there at all (depending how carefully you use it)

3) I thought I recall something about replacing the metal cooling unit with something else...ball bearings.. something like that. Is that another way to cool the vapor in the cooling stem?

Some people use half of the cooling unit, parts of it, to load steel or quartz pearls, yes that is another way to cool vapor, you can use a mouthpiece from the rogue wax works or ditanium as well... But there are also some custom cooling stems like from good vibes boro on Instagram among others and more coming??

4) When I purchased the unit I purchased extra parts incuding a short glass piece that the website says sometimes breaks.

Where is that part?

there's another o-ring that is harder to see, because there is a glass tube around the metal tube and another one below that surrounds the heater, that is what the spare glass is for

5) Has anyone removed the bottom and is there any reason to do so.?

There's no reason to remove the bottom, do not remove the entire top either, just the retaining ring stuff, unless there is a problem and you want to check stuff out, I wouldn't touch any of that stuff and I never have!

 

[Vaporific]

They are on page 187...

Wait, I just went to go look at them and they no longer display. I don't know if that is due to the attachment problem on this site or if @JoeKickass had posted them on a hoster that quit...

Drats! I had that page memorized and cited it too a few times as well. There are a few other teardown pics sprinkled in the thread but I don’t know where they are.

On a TM tangential night, for the first time in almost 23 months I did something with my TM I’d never done before. I loaded a short stem a hollow CU, put my rubber cap on and headed out on an errand. When reaching my destination I turned on my TM and took a draw without looking - and got a mouthful of Sour D instead of vapor. I inserted the stem the wrong way, lol! My rubber cap covered the load so I didn’t see it. Talk about micro loads (which I never do) - there wasn’t much left after I had to spit out most of the load. Oh well. There’s a first time for everything I guess. The upside is there was enough to make the drive home enjoyable.

 

[andrew`124c41+]

When I was a kid I got screwdriveritis with a bran new Regeny Range Gain CB with synthesized tuning rather than xtals. I threw it out of tune.

So I learned my lesson. If it is not broke don't fix it.

What is interesting is as I said, I only use the glass WPA and occasionally the FLLGS (Funny Looking long glass stem.)

They clean with soap and water easily. The metal tube really does not get dirty.

What is interesting is that the mesh screen curves down so I imagine in theory, one could just throw herb into it and put any of the stems on top.

But in the interest of keeping anything out of the heater, I load the WPA and turn the unit upside down.

Still have not had the chance to try out the dedicated bubbler.

I see that the bottom ring when turned so the flange is up, just fits the glass stems which is obviously it's purpose.

I assume there are people who have taken the entire unit apart.

Where do people get the metal or quartz pearls?

 

[Shit Snacks]

What is interesting is as I said, I only use the glass WPA and occasionally the FLLGS (Funny Looking long glass stem.)

They clean with soap and water easily. The metal tube really does not get dirty.

That actually is not that interesting, as I said, the vapor path is the glass stem, that is your chamber and the vapor path, the metal tube is completely outside of the vapor path, so yes unless you are getting crumbs and stuff dirty in there really messy style stem loading, it stays 100% clean like new and there is no reason to ever clean it... After that first initial clean when it arrives of course.

What is interesting is that the mesh screen curves down so I imagine in theory, one could just throw herb into it and put any of the stems on top.

No no, the curve is just the nature of getting it to fit in the retainer ring, absolutely do not load herb on top of the heater screen and then put a stem on top, it is not designed for that, you will make it very messy, and it will not be efficient at all...

But in the interest of keeping anything out of the heater, I load the WPA and turn the unit upside down.

This is the proper use, this is the only way to use it, this is a glass stem based vape, the glass stem is both your chamber and vapor path!

Where do people get the metal or quartz pearls?

Search the thread for steel balls, someone had just posted where they bought theirs, for a quartz pearls, you can buy them from Beracky on Amazon (I like a mix of 4mm and 6mm size pearls for cooling)

 

[andrew`124c41+]

That actually is not that interesting, as I said, the vapor path is the glass stem, that is your chamber and the vapor path, the metal tube is completely outside of the vapor path, so yes unless you are getting crumbs and stuff dirty in there really messy style stem loading, it stays 100% clean like new and there is no reason to ever clean it... After that first initial clean when it arrives of course.



No no, the curve is just the nature of getting it to fit in the retainer ring, absolutely do not load herb on top of the heater screen and then put a stem on top, it is not designed for that, you will make it very messy, and it will not be efficient at all...



This is the proper use, this is the only way to use it, this is a glass stem based vape, the glass stem is both your chamber and vapor path!



Search the thread for steel balls, someone had just posted where they bought theirs, for a quartz pearls, you can buy them from Beracky on Amazon (I like a mix of 4mm and 6mm size pearls for cooling)

Sorry, tired... confused air path with vapor path.

If ones uses the cooling unit it can be adjusted to change the load size.

However, this is not the case with the dedicated WPA or the FLLGS which has a small bucket screen in it.

How to get bigger loads with a wpa? (Not possible with the FLLGS.)

 

[RustyOldNail]

Sorry, tired... confused air path with vapor path.

If ones uses the cooling unit it can be adjusted to change the load size.

However, this is not the case with the dedicated WPA or the FLLGS which has a small bucket screen in it.

How to get bigger loads with a wpa? (Not possible with the FLLGS.)

Look here at CU adjustments:

TinyMight / TM 2

I only have a 18mm bubbler for all my vapes, should have gone with the 10/14/18 adapter? Or are they going to get Dirty quick and need Frequent cleanings? Just want to get all my ducks in a row if possible! No I was just saying, because you got two of the short stem and two of the long stem...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[andrew`124c41+]

Look here at CU adjustments:

TinyMight / TM 2

I only have a 18mm bubbler for all my vapes, should have gone with the 10/14/18 adapter? Or are they going to get Dirty quick and need Frequent cleanings? Just want to get all my ducks in a row if possible! No I was just saying, because you got two of the short stem and two of the long stem...

fuckcombustion.com

I have a dedicated 14 mm stem and the multi stem which I really do not need and will probably sell.


Yes, it gets dirty but it is easily cleaned with soap and water.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Sorry, tired... confused air path with vapor path.

If ones uses the cooling unit it can be adjusted to change the load size.

However, this is not the case with the dedicated WPA or the FLLGS which has a small bucket screen in it.

You don't need the cooling unit, you can do that with any stem, and a rimless basket screen, however if you load a lot you will not have good extraction in my experience... I'd rather do more smaller bowls personally for flavor and effects.

How to get bigger loads with a wpa? (Not possible with the FLLGS.)

You need a different WPA, this is why I suggest buying both from TM, the 18 mm one and the multi WPA, because the multi has a glass honeycomb screen and the 18 mm one is just an open tube, which is just like the RBT stems that I use backwards as my own TM WPA. That is why I use 99% of the time with my TM and rimless basket screens through hooks and rigs and other glass pieces dry mostly but also through water a bit... Very simple and easy to keep clean, I do not need to clean very often, having two to rotate between (though I also have more)

I've posted many photos showing how I use my TM, I don't feel like searching for them myself though sorry

 

[RustyOldNail]

I have a dedicated 14 mm stem and the multi stem which I really do not need and will probably sell.


Yes, it gets dirty but it is easily cleaned with soap and water.

You actually have to click the LINK, to see what I posted. The forum adds that text when you add a link to a message.

 

[andrew`124c41+]

You don't need the cooling unit, you can do that with any stem, and a rimless basket screen, however if you load a lot you will not have good extraction in my experience... I'd rather do more smaller bowls personally for flavor and effects.



You need a different WPA, this is why I suggest buying both from TM, the 18 mm one and the multi WPA, because the multi has a glass honeycomb screen and the 18 mm one is just an open tube, which is just like the RBT stems that I use backwards as my own TM WPA. That is why I use 99% of the time with my TM and rimless basket screens through hooks and rigs and other glass pieces dry mostly but also through water a bit... Very simple and easy to keep clean, I do not need to clean very often, having two to rotate between (though I also have more)

I've posted many photos showing how I use my TM, I don't feel like searching for them myself though sorry

I have both the multi and the 14 mm which I got from TM.

I just don't need the multi since the 14 fits my WP.

I have not seen basket screens for sale.

I just wanted to experiment with the cooling stem and create my own custom short cooling stem.

Copper allows for the most effecient heat transfer.

Amazon has some 3 mm copper perfect spheres. The only thing is that copper oxides easily.

Aluminum spheres would be another way to go. I found some 1/4 but they are too big.

Copper can be easily cleaned by boiling viniger and salt.

The copper balls are only a few dollars.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I have both the multi and the 14 mm which I got from TM.

I just don't need the multi since the 14 fits my WP.

I don't have nor have I looked at the 14, so I don't know if it has a fixed glass honeycomb screen or not... I mentioned the 18 because I know it does not, like the RBT stems, mostly what I use, so if I am using a 14mm piece it's with an adapter of some sort (ie drop down)

 

[RustyOldNail]

I have both the multi and the 14 mm which I got from TM.

I just don't need the multi since the 14 fits my WP.

You must mean you have the 18mm WPA, he doesn’t list a pure 14mm on the TM site!

Accessories

tinymightvape.com

 

[andrew`124c41+]

No, he sent me a 14 mm. He wanted me to try it out.

Unfortunately, I don't see it any longer on the TM site.

And yes, it does have a glass mesh screen. I told him that I thought he should carry it..that people would probably want one.

I am going to sell the multi since I don't need it.

 

[Tweakz]

That is why I use 99% of the time with my TM and rimless basket screens through hooks and rigs and other glass pieces dry mostly but also through water a bit... Very simple and easy to keep clean, I do not need to clean very often, having two to rotate between (though I also have more)

I absolutely agree with you. This is my favorite way too 99,9% now. TM+rimless basket screen it’s a game changer for me. With this method, I turned TM into a 1- hit -vape. Smooth extraction in just one powerful rip. Incredible.

 

[RustyOldNail]

No, he sent me a 14 mm. He wanted me to try it out.

Unfortunately, I don't see it any longer on the TM site.

And yes, it does have a glass mesh screen. I told him that I thought he should carry it..that people would probably want one.

I am going to sell the multi since I don't need it.

Interesting, all my rigs are 14mm, I would have bought one myself. Not a big deal, I use the titanium MP on the standard short glass stem, which fits into my 14mm female joints.

 

[Shit Snacks]

No, he sent me a 14 mm. He wanted me to try it out.

Unfortunately, I don't see it any longer on the TM site.

And yes, it does have a glass mesh screen. I told him that I thought he should carry it..that people would probably want one.

I am going to sell the multi since I don't need it.

Okay, yeah, then there is zero reason for you to have the multi, see if someone can trade you for one without the glass honeycomb screen?? If you want a WPA that is 14mm plain tube, email alan@toasty-top.com to order one or however many, he can also include however many rimless steel mesh basket screens you want, he has other options possibly too...

I have a custom heat island order he is working on, so I am getting a few of those stems, to use with the HI, but also my TM, so I can finally have a 14 mm WPA myself, since like I said I have only 18 mm which is fine bc I have so much glass many of it is 18 mm however I also have plenty that is 14 mm, though if it is with water I am always using a drop-down adapter anyway so it is easy to adjust the size for me...

As Rusty says, and as I said, in reference to using with cooling pearls, the rogue wax works acrylic titanium lined mouthpiece or the ditanium mouthpiece each feature a 14 mm taper as well so they can make the stock stem become a WPA

I absolutely agree with you. This is my favorite way too 99,9% now. TM+rimless basket screen it’s a game changer for me. With this method, I turned TM into a 1- hit -vape. Smooth extraction in just one powerful rip. Incredible.

Absolutely, I'm glad you are a convert, I like to milk my TM bowls, even the small ones, by starting as low as possible on the dial and slowly turning it up for each hit to eventually finish below level six through my dry pieces... So versatile to start higher on the dial and go through water, I just had a nice big bowl, turned it on session mode so I didn't have to hold the button down, at level 5, through water, tap the button to turn it off as I was feeling nearly done, to continue inhaling and clear the heat and vapor completely for a lovely mid temp one hitter of smooth thick flavorful vapor!

 

[RustyOldNail]

I have both the multi and the 14 mm which I got from TM.

I just don't need the multi since the 14 fits my WP.

I have not seen basket screens for sale.

I just wanted to experiment with the cooling stem and create my own custom short cooling stem.

Copper allows for the most effecient heat transfer.

Amazon has some 3 mm copper perfect spheres. The only thing is that copper oxides easily.

Aluminum spheres would be another way to go. I found some 1/4 but they are too big.

Copper can be easily cleaned by boiling viniger and salt.

The copper balls are only a few dollars.

Didn’t you say you were a “doctor”, at some point? Maybe, I’m confusing you with a different member, but ...
ALUMINUM, COPPER, balls.... NOT in my lungs. There is a wealth of information in this thread already posted, but if you want to play with BALLS, start here:

TinyMight / TM 2

Damn I am about to send mine in for repair and i am worried they won't do much anything to improve it after hearing some of these testimonies, my temp dial spins freely without stopping at 1 or 10, also i unfortunately had a faulty battery in my TM recently and it began smoking and overheating...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[Shit Snacks]

OMG yes please do not use copper or aluminum material pearls as cooling beads! Steel, titanium, quartz, glass boro, rubies, silicon carbide, all safe when sourced properly (do not get gemstone beads that have holes through them for example)

 

[andrew`124c41+]

OMG yes please do not use copper or aluminum material pearls as cooling beads! Steel, titanium, quartz, glass boro, rubies, silicon carbide, all safe when sourced properly (do not get gemstone beads that have holes through them for example)

The issue with respect to aluminum and Alzheimer's has been debated for years. It is used as an adjuvent in vaccines.

Copper is used for cooking all the time. There are people with copper storage disease who need to limit copper intake.

We are talking about both metals in their metallic state. Stainless steel has all sorts of trace metals in it.

The amount if any of any bound copper getting in one's lungs is negligible if any.

Copper fumes are toxic to the respiratory system but it takes quite a bit of heat to melt copper and produce vapor...a heck of a lot more than 350 F.


At my age this is the least of my worries.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Cooking and vaping are not great material comparisons.
350f, might be a temperature you select on a device, the actual temperature of a red hot coil in a 21700 battery mod, can release toxic metals. This has been a raging debate in the UNDERSTUDIED ECig vape world for years now.

Obviously, you can choose whatever you like, but I’ll stick with the materials that at least have some track record at this point, instead of becoming a lab experiment, for what gain?