The calibration feature allows you to calibrate the TM +/- 3 full steps (in your exemple, temp 6 could be as low as what you have now on temp 3 and as hight as what you get now on 9).
So you can't calibrate less than 1 full step up or down, and i think that if the differences between units would all be as small as you suggest, the maker wouldn't have made this calibartion feature +/- 3 full steps (i could be wrong).
Seem to me that if the desired results are not achieved by adjusting the firmware, there surely must be a way to restore to original specs (settings).
Uhmmm... As the lid contacts the housing, and all the current is flowing over it and the voltage we are talking about is comparatively low and resistance will have noticeable impact on overall power, i won't put oil there...Just take a q-tip and put a little mineral oil on it....wipe a light layer on the threads of the cap and top of vape.....boom.....smooth as butta!
Awesome info! I think most of us can agree we love this vape! I think the above info should help all feel good about their purchase and future of operations! We gotta get something positive out of this year.I'm talking with Tinymight right now on Instagram. First things first, @Djsleepy @Bazinga and anyone else that's still having issues, go on IG and send him a message with your order number and that you have not received a replacement, return label, etc. I'd send an email at the same time in ALL CAPS with "clear first line, order number and subject Tinymight missing." This is what Tinymight just told me, they want to get all RMA's delivered before Christmas.
Tinymight also informed me that they moved locations (another city) which messed with some replacements as DHL could not deliver the bad unit and did not have the option to change the address when the package was already en route so some were getting stuck in a loop until DHL sorted it out.
once he answered me on instagram ... but then he stopped.SquirrelMaster - thanks for providing the information. I guess it's time to open an Instagram account.
Unless he’s changed things the accessory orders are sent by untracked first class letter service. The last time I ordered accessories the package was lost a few times and had to be resent.and I still haven't received the track code for my accessory from him..
Good luck Dude. Both on getting the TM and on weathering the storm. The first big one of the season is always a bitch.An update on my end. My tracking says it should be delivered by this upcoming Monday. Keep in mind I'm in N.E. with a massive shi...snow storm headed our way tonight.
Join the club - I’m just west of Boston. I however may leave the TM inside - and use my Hopper instead while digging out. And it will take a while too (at least 10 inches so far and it’ll continue for several more hours). Thankfully my son is off today so I’ll dispatch him to do most of the work. Tried another strain last night @ 5 and there was a bit more vapor than the other strain at the same temp. I’m not convinced it’s consistently producing vapor under 5. We’ll see.
Probably time to sell your TM and move on then....cause you complaining about what the guy does.....is not going to do anything. But if you like the vape and you have decent mechanical abilities....keep it and fix things yourself like many of us have done.You're free to think what you want, but if this move is taking the months that people have complained about poor cs, then maybe get help moving?
Uhmmm... As the lid contacts the housing, and all the current is flowing over it and the voltage we are talking about is comparatively low and resistance will have noticeable impact on overall power, i won't put oil there...
Surely it will be pressed away at certain spots of the threads and contact anyway, but i wouldn't do anyhow.
There is no reason to attack peoples thoughts/ideas.Just pointing out that the excuse proferred is a crock of shit.
So if the only people who should own this vape are those with "good mechanical abilities" who don't "need their hands held" and can fix it themselves, why can't they be trusted with the closely guarded calibration instructions?
Loss of power is generally a symptom of bad contact with the metal band to the top metal piece. You may want to check that. It’s actually a very easy fix.Lost power the passed few days with my tinymight. Been seeming like my hits just weren't quite as big and after inspection of my avb it was noticeable lighter than it should be. My battery was at 2 so I swapped it out but the next bowl was the same! Thankfully I follow this thread and knew several things to try, first was cleaning the battery threads, I looked at them and they looked ok? But after the first wipe with a white eraser it was filthy! Went over with the eraser till it came out clean then aggressively ISO qtiping till the same. The next bowl was much better but still not as dark as it should be but I burned through 10 loads trying to diagnose and it was time for bed. Tried hitting it as hard as I can this morning and I got my black ring if I hit it till vapour stops so that last bowl after cleaning the threads might have just been me after so many? In any case I'm going to give the threads one more go and keep a eye on my avb for the next while. Hopefully I won't need to open it up but I'm confident I could if need be. Like I said I'm glad I follow this thread and know what to try, makes me think battery thread care instructions should be on those wooden planks, might save him a lot of headaches email wise.
Thank you for setting me straight.Seems like you are not understanding what the problems are and how to fix them. That adjustment needing to be made after a TM was functioning correctly from the start.....is not the correct fix and could lead to other problems. So fix the actual problem first is what I am saying.
As for my comments about "those who should own this vape"............. you do have the ability to use info found in this thread, but understand this is not a bitch and complain about CS thread.
You got me all paranoid about the strip contact so I decided to just take top off and check. Even though everything I've read doesn't seem to difficult, any 5 year old can take something apart but getting it all back together and working is another story But I'm glad I did because surely I would have lost power again. Undid the screw enough to get the top off and the first thing I did was look at the strip, it looked ok, had a slight dent in it and curved upwards towards the tip. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw something fall, it was a second o ring that sits on top of the glass sleeve, didn't know there was one and I almost didn't see it fall Talk about narrowly averting a total screw up putting it back together I picked it up and went to see where it fell from and that's when I saw it, a thick nasty film all over the underside of the top plate! My first thought was could this be dried on reclaim? I took a ISO qtip to it but nothing really came off, so I thought could this all be oxidization or machining residue from the cnc process? I got my pencil and wiped the contact, it came off jet black. I moved onto the rest of the lid and burned through the whole white eraser on my mechanical pencil and used a lot of elbow grease but I got it clean, the strip itself was clean. Now I have a half disassembled tinymight and I'm wondering if I should finish the job and remove the bottom plate and clean it? Just how difficult is that? All I have to do is completely remove the screw and it comes right off? Just be careful not to let the button fall out? Should I just do it or do I risk damaging the heater? Help me out tinymight threadLoss of power is generally a symptom of bad contact with the metal band to the top metal piece. You may want to check that. It’s actually a very easy fix.
Yes, remove the screw and the plate should be slightly secured by the USB port. just push it slightly through the usb. do not remove the wood from the psb.You got me all paranoid about the strip contact so I decided to just take top off and check. Even though everything I've read doesn't seem to difficult, any 5 year old can take something apart but getting it all back together and working is another story But I'm glad I did because surely I would have lost power again. Undid the screw enough to get the top off and the first thing I did was look at the strip, it looked ok, had a slight dent in it and curved upwards towards the tip. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw something fall, it was a second o ring that sits on top of the glass sleeve, didn't know there was one and I almost didn't see it fall Talk about narrowly averting a total screw up putting it back together I picked it up and went to see where it fell from and that's when I saw it, a thick nasty film all over the underside of the top plate! My first thought was could this be dried on reclaim? I took a ISO qtip to it but nothing really came off, so I thought could this all be oxidization or machining residue from the cnc process? I got my pencil and wiped the contact, it came off jet black. I moved onto the rest of the lid and burned through the whole white eraser on my mechanical pencil and used a lot of elbow grease but I got it clean, the strip itself was clean. Now I have a half disassembled tinymight and I'm wondering if I should finish the job and remove the bottom plate and clean it? Just how difficult is that? All I have to do is completely remove the screw and it comes right off? Just be careful not to let the button fall out? Should I just do it or do I risk damaging the heater? Help me out tinymight thread