no dremel needed
It stays always inside the TM as the original one
You asked for pictures .. ok...take:
Either I’m not using my Tinymight optimally OR I love it so much though I’m not over-using it OR I need to clean the stem and Cooling Unit more often. I’m noticing some droplets of reclaim between the CU and the stem while I’m sitting in my yard after some outdoor chores. I hadn’t really given too much thought to it after I soaked both for the first time a couple of weeks ago after having the TM for about 6-7 weeks. I may need more frequent cleanings. My range is 5.5-8 and usually average just inside that. While I don’t measure my load sizes are moderate and usually not as deep as the width of the stem; I start a fresh bowl at lower temp, take 2-3 draws, turn off and then repeat, maybe an extra draw to get full extraction at higher temp to finish the load. Any thoughts?
I’m now wondering if I should have ordered a second cooling unit, lol.
PlentyMight.
I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure that he is using stainless steel nuts and washers for the cooling unit. I don't think you have to worry about rust unless you leave it sitting in water for a long time. Rinsing it off should be no problem. When I clean my weed stuff, I use the ISO to get most of it off, then run hot water over it to get the rest. Usually get 95%+ of it.oh yes you need a second CU at least. i cleaned my CU today first time after using it 3 days. the unit the screen and the glass tube were so dirty that must be cleaned. i vape about 7 sessions a day and cooling unit for me must be cleaned all 3 days. i am lucky to have 2. the glass tube must be cleaned or changed to new one about one day because it is soo dirty.
after cleaning CU today i must say it is not so easy to clean.
After 2 hours of exposure I saw that I had to dismantle it and have to clean
it with Q Tips. the CU is not easy to clean, but it is worth it to work very well with vaping. I will order at least 2 CUs that I don't have to clean as often.
When I was finished I noticed that it was not yet 100% clean, but no matter what, it gets dirty again.
Edit:
after cleaning with Iso 99% I asked myself whether it is ok to rinse the CU briefly with water, not that there is rust on the screw or threaded rod, for example. but I did it
oh and I had to twist apart the CU so that it gets really clean at all
I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure that he is using stainless steel nuts and washers for the cooling unit. I don't think you have to worry about rust unless you leave it sitting in water for a long time. Rinsing it off should be no problem.
Yes@Cannabliss*420, not having a TM yet so relying solely on pics, is that "4" CUs you have in your stem?
@Summer – No, the pic shows two stacked cooling units, each consisting of two segments screwed together by a long bolt.
Cooling overkill nonetheless. :-)
Yeah, I'm actually quite sure that rinsing it with hot water after soaking it in iso is kind of finalizing the whole cleaning process, as it washes off the resin saturated iso I guess. I do blow out the remaining water droplets and let it dry for a few minutes before using it again, I don't think rust will ever be an issue.
Don't knock it until you try it. Keeps it cool and no lost in flavor or air flow. You lose taste with water and air flow with glass beads, so this works great and the plenty mouth piece is very comfortable to draw from.Water is 100% fine. The best stainless is 316, some times comes as 304 (the higher number is better quality both both are good and fine with water) and cheap Chinese shit can be so bad that its actually magnetic...
The only time I've ever had rust issues with stainless (and I've brewed beer with stainless for 20 plus years, cleaning it thousands of times) is if you elect to clean some stuck on whatever with a metal (even stainless) brillo/cleaning pad.
Never do that. Only use plastic scrubber pads if necessary. Rubbing metal on stainless will actually exchange the two metals to the degree rust WILL RESULT.
Dont do that and stainless is very tolerant to water and chemicals.
Side note, bleach or chlorine exposure can pit stainless . So if, say in Chicago or another big city when they chlorinate heavy (like once a year or so), it wouldnt hurt to avoid that water for extended lengths of time.
Don't knock it until you try it. Keeps it cool and no lost in flavor or air flow. You lose taste with water and air flow with glass beads, so this works great and the plenty mouth piece is very comfortable to draw from.
oh yes you need a second CU at least. i cleaned my CU today first time after using it 3 days. the unit the screen and the glass tube were so dirty that must be cleaned. i vape about 7 sessions a day and cooling unit for me must be cleaned all 3 days. i am lucky to have 2. the glass tube must be cleaned or changed to new one about one day because it is soo dirty.
after cleaning CU today i must say it is not so easy to clean.
After 2 hours of exposure I saw that I had to dismantle it and have to clean
it with Q Tips. the CU is not easy to clean, but it is worth it to work very well with vaping. I will order at least 2 CUs that I don't have to clean as often.
When I was finished I noticed that it was not yet 100% clean, but no matter what, it gets dirty again.
Edit:
after cleaning with Iso 99% I asked myself whether it is ok to rinse the CU briefly with water, not that there is rust on the screw or threaded rod, for example. but I did it
oh and I had to twist apart the CU so that it gets really clean at all
Don't knock it until you try it. Keeps it cool and no lost in flavor or air flow. You lose taste with water and air flow with glass beads, so this works great and the plenty mouth piece is very comfortable to draw from.
It would also be really helpful to hear from any TM users who suffer from asthma. Ordinarily my asthma is very mild and I’ve never experienced any problems whilst vaping (even taking bigger hits using the Solo with a water piece). However I’m concerned that the TM could be too much for my lungs when used on-demand at higher temperatures.[/QUOTE said:So for me it is that since I have the TM for 5 days I have to cough more than with the Migthy for example and have more mucus in the throat at night. So for the neck the Mighty was better. But it's worth it to me because the TM are stronger in the effect. it's not that extreme either, but I clearly notice it. .
Thank you. I found yesterday what appear to be the same size corks on Amazon and planned to do the same as you since I don’t own a dremel, and just use progressively larger drill bits. I don’t own a round file however and may want to get one to finish off the process - or buy a dremel if the cost is negligible. I guess one more thing to add to the Depot list, lol.I had a chance to try making some cork stoppers in preparation for my TM's arrival.
Lacking a dremel, I tried to hollow out the corks entirely with my drill. I started with a pilot hole using a 1/4" bit, then widened it with a 3/8" bit, and finally followed up with a 1/2" bit.
One problem I had while doing this was that the 1/2" bit and the cork do not play well together. The smaller sized drill bits made relatively clean holes, but the 1/2" one would begin tearing chunks of cork out if I wasn't careful:
I had originally figured that a 5/8" bit would drill a pretty good approximation of the mouthpiece diameter, but I didn't actually check to see if I owned a 5/8" bit. I'm not sure how well a bit that large would actually work on the corks, since it would hollow out so much that I think the cork might lose structure and just be torn to pieces. Then again, I'm not much of a handyman, so perhaps someone with better technique could pull it off.
A 1/2" doesn't create a large enough hole on its own, and I found that trying to force my RBT stems (which I'm using to estimate the TM mouthpiece size) into the 1/2" hole would just destroy the corks. I needed something to widen the hole a little more.
I tried using the drill to widen the hole I'd made by swirling it around the edges of the 1/2" hole. I found that this would either tear out more chunks of cork, or not really widen the hole at all. Luckily, I found a little hand-file in my toolbox whose width is almost perfectly the same as the RBT stem diameter.
(You can see my various mistakes on the top right)
I gently forced the file into the 1/2" hole and then used it to sand the hole until it was wide enough. Not only did this make the hole wide enough to fit the RBT stems, but it also cleaned up the chunky edges from the 1/2" bit and smoothed out the inside.
In the end, I got 4 usable corks and botched maybe 11. I think I can get a better success rate now that I know what to do.
This was actually not such a complicated process. I'm not a DIY-oriented person at all, and this was about 40 minutes of experimentation. I think these corks might work well to protect the stem in my pocket, but I'd hesitate to use one to hold a loaded stem outside the TM. The bottom of the hole in each cork is not flush, nor is it smoothed by the file. I think the ground bud might easily come loose and fall into the cork if not packed correctly. Maybe that's something to work on today...