Discontinued The Timber Elite by Vapwood

[Facticity]

Nobody told me it would be this bad. After a great start, the pain kicked in on Monday. *Nerve endings grew back*, is the reason the pain gets worse. I found out it was an extensive procedure, and all is *well*. If I were a narcotics user, now would be the time. Problem is, I am not willing to take opiates for even a day, never mind 2 weeks.

I am going to try and get some stuff done today, but not much. The November batch is closed, and as soon as the pain pulls back, I'm diving back in full throttle. I'm optimistic, as I am finally getting a slight bit better the last 2 or 3 days, with shorter duration of high level pain. I'm taking way too many advils, but really have no choice when the pain kicks in. My best bet is 2 or 3 pills every 4 to 6 hours, pretty much what doc prescribed. I'm also using some cbd tincture (from dispensary) that is helping.

I can't wait to get back into full swing.

Shoot, that's really rough. Hopefully it eases soon and you can get some relief.

That's a good bit of Advil there. Just watch out for your stomach, if you've had reflux in the past, Meloxicam (aka Mobic) is another NSAID that protects your stomach's lining and is considered a bit more effective than advil. Also you can make any NSAID more effective by adding an occasional Tylenol 500 (max 2-3 per day). I'm in pain management - just my

 

[Bravesst]

Yes that's a lot of ibuprofen, but I'm winding down now @Facticity , and thanks for the advice. I'm down to 2 tablets, 4 times a day, and hopefully I'll be off them completely in a day or two. Pain is somehow on and off. Everything sets it off (eating, talking, moving in general). Today it's definitely less, but still sucks. Still a load of stitches in my mouth that will be coming out soon.

I managed to clean up both shops, quite the feat right now. I'm having more work done on my house, and my shop is absorbing a really cool roll down desk that is my *packing station*. I somehow moved that down some stairs myself today. Sort of rolled it. I'm vacating my den for my mother-in-law, who'll be staying with us a few months at a clip. All this and dental surgery too!

Next week I hope to swing back into normal mode.

 

[Bravesst]

Off Ibuprofen. On building Timbers. All this rest has me dreaming of upgrades.

 

[Facticity]

Off Ibuprofen. On building Timbers. All this rest has me dreaming of upgrades.

Heck yeah!

 

[Bravesst]

Was at the periodontist, all good. Pain sometimes still at an *uncomfortable* level, but never *excruciating*. He said I had quite the infection that he removed completely (he *cleaned house*). I recommend anyone who's hearing about *bone loss* at their dentist visits, or just go to a perio on your own, because if I would have done this 10 years ago, it would have been a small procedure. Now I lost another tooth, and had major bone grafting done. I'll need another implant, and all will be well. I going to be pro active and have the rest of my mouth done as well.

Lots of time to think on the Timber design, and I did come up with 2 potentially viable ideas - one relatively invisible, the other very obvious. Neither may work, but you never know until you give it a shot.

1. Cooling Fins
The top section of Timber that houses the coil is a the same size as the base of the unit. The coil housing is only 7/8 diameter at it's widest point. There are also the screws the fasten the bottom and top sections that sit right outside the coil chamber. Let's call it 1 1/8. That leaves about a half inch of extra material on each side. I could theoretically trim a good 3/8 from each side, in a cooling fin fashion, for the height of the coil chamber (not the taper). This may turn out to be purely cosmetic, or it may enhance (or hurt) performance by allowing the coil to coil down faster (cold ohms drop). Fun experiment either way.

2. Heat Disperser
Some complain of hot spots. The heat that is pulled up from the coil goes through a fine basket screen. The coil is nothing more than a spiral with a center post and outer post. The mass of the 2 posts (wire and connector) is a greater than the mass of coil itself. More heat must collect dead center vs around the circumference. If there was a way to slow down air flow dead center, this should reduce the issue. Again, not sure if this is feasible, but stainless steel foil comes to mind, cut into virtually any shape, flat disc that would disperse the heat more to the outer edges of the bowl. This is actually a potential *upgrade* I could make on any Timber or Lil' Bud - if it works.

These are two ideas that may have no place in reality, but both are relatively easy to apply, so what the heck?

With that said, the new batch is coming along. I've got my final November list of units to build or finalize, but will have to wait on some parts from my partner in crime before final assembly, as I need some more buttons / tubes.

 

[el sargantano]

New ideas & improvements!
You're unstoppable!

 

[Facticity]

2. Heat Disperser
Some complain of hot spots. The heat that is pulled up from the coil goes through a fine basket screen. The coil is nothing more than a spiral with a center post and outer post. The mass of the 2 posts (wire and connector) is a greater than the mass of coil itself. More heat must collect dead center vs around the circumference. If there was a way to slow down air flow dead center, this should reduce the issue. Again, not sure if this is feasible, but stainless steel foil comes to mind, cut into virtually any shape, flat disc that would disperse the heat more to the outer edges of the bowl. This is actually a potential *upgrade* I could make on any Timber or Lil' Bud - if it works.

Alan spoke a bit about distributing the heat away from the center of the chamber using his slitted glass tube insert.

Here is what he said in an email: "The idea is to draw the air coming through the flower puck toward the outside of the wood tube to get more even roasting. The hot air first hits the closed end of the tube and is then diverted to the three slits. A lot of the heat is impinged on the closed end of the glass tube."

So maybe the idea of having a small disc to divert the heat, combined with the slitted glass tubes will enable a sort of dispersion of the hot air to the periphery of the chamber. Interesting idea!!

Edit: if you look at heating chambers like that of the Crafty/Mighty lineup, they use a similar principle. The openings for the hot air entering into the oven are all on the periphery of the unit. Perhaps something similar would work as well in the Timber.

 

[Bravesst]

Alan spoke a bit about distributing the heat away from the center of the chamber using his slitted glass tube insert.

Here is what he said in an email: "The idea is to draw the air coming through the flower puck toward the outside of the wood tube to get more even roasting. The hot air first hits the closed end of the tube and is then diverted to the three slits. A lot of the heat is impinged on the closed end of the glass tube."

So maybe the idea of having a small disc to divert the heat, combined with the slitted glass tubes will enable a sort of dispersion of the hot air to the periphery of the chamber. Interesting idea!!

Edit: if you look at heating chambers like that of the Crafty/Mighty lineup, they use a similar principle. The openings for the hot air entering into the oven are all on the periphery of the unit. Perhaps something similar would work as well in the Timber.

Very many vapes seem to do just that. My only concern is the pure convection of Timber vs the convection / conduction hybrid of many others units. It's almost a no brainer that the peripheral slits in the glass lining will divert heat first to the outer edges. My idea, basically the same concept, only air gets diverted *at the coil* vs *in the tube*. Might not be necessary to do both and still get more even heating.

The disc would be an upgrade built into the unit. Right now there is a very fine mesh basket screen that is basically pushed into place. That basket screen keeps any droppings from making it into the coil space, and maybe has some effect on heat dispersion, but probably not much. I'd venture to guess that the only way to come up with the perfect disc is to come up with as many concepts as possible and simply try them out. I will start with the ss foil I use to line the oven. It's very thin and should not steal much heat.

If there was an easy way to fix the ss against the basket screen, I could simply experiment with shapes that fit inside the circumference of that opening. More realistically, I may have to cut a shape much like a stencil. It will be interesting to find out if this has any chance of working, and if so, what percentage of the screen should be diverted (anywhere from 10 to 90% would be my guess, so let's start at 50%). Maybe a simple X, with a meaty center would work, or even a simple slash, or even possibly a full sized perforated disc, with possibly some kind of press jig to punch all the holes.

 

[Facticity]

Very many vapes seem to do just that. My only concern is the pure convection of Timber vs the convection / conduction hybrid of many others units. It's almost a no brainer that the peripheral slits in the glass lining will divert heat first to the outer edges. My idea, basically the same concept, only air gets diverted *at the coil* vs *in the tube*. Might not be necessary to do both and still get more even heating.

The disc would be an upgrade built into the unit. Right now there is a very fine mesh basket screen that is basically pushed into place. That basket screen keeps any droppings from making it into the coil space, and maybe has some effect on heat dispersion, but probably not much. I'd venture to guess that the only way to come up with the perfect disc is to come up with as many concepts as possible and simply try them out. I will start with the ss foil I use to line the oven. It's very thin and should not steal much heat.

If there was an easy way to fix the ss against the basket screen, I could simply experiment with shapes that fit inside the circumference of that opening. More realistically, I may have to cut a shape much like a stencil. It will be interesting to find out if this has any chance of working, and if so, what percentage of the screen should be diverted (anywhere from 10 to 90% would be my guess, so let's start at 50%). Maybe a simple X, with a meaty center would work, or even a simple slash, or even possibly a full sized perforated disc, with possibly some kind of press jig to punch all the holes.

The full- size perforated disc sounds like what I was picturing. Also could be something easy to reproduce/modify, since it's a simple shape and you can play with the distribution and quantity of the perforations.

Edit: grammar

 

[nonbeliever]

Very many vapes seem to do just that. My only concern is the pure convection of Timber vs the convection / conduction hybrid of many others units. It's almost a no brainer that the peripheral slits in the glass lining will divert heat first to the outer edges. My idea, basically the same concept, only air gets diverted *at the coil* vs *in the tube*. Might not be necessary to do both and still get more even heating.

The disc would be an upgrade built into the unit. Right now there is a very fine mesh basket screen that is basically pushed into place. That basket screen keeps any droppings from making it into the coil space, and maybe has some effect on heat dispersion, but probably not much. I'd venture to guess that the only way to come up with the perfect disc is to come up with as many concepts as possible and simply try them out. I will start with the ss foil I use to line the oven. It's very thin and should not steal much heat.

If there was an easy way to fix the ss against the basket screen, I could simply experiment with shapes that fit inside the circumference of that opening. More realistically, I may have to cut a shape much like a stencil. It will be interesting to find out if this has any chance of working, and if so, what percentage of the screen should be diverted (anywhere from 10 to 90% would be my guess, so let's start at 50%). Maybe a simple X, with a meaty center would work, or even a simple slash, or even possibly a full sized perforated disc, with possibly some kind of press jig to punch all the holes.

would affixing the disk directly to the screen create some kind of electrical short/issue? Maybe not since it is DC?. But It would seem to me that it would become part of the heat source at that point, using lots more battery power. What about a ceramic disc since you are trying to create a deflection plate.

EDIT: in rereading this, you are affixing the disk to the screen in the roasting tube? Ah, that makes more sense. That’s what I was trying to do with baffles.. shift the airflow for more mixing. Why not just use a disc that is 2/3 or 3/4 as wide as the screen, center to center. Then You’d simply have an edge which would be similar to the way @Alan’s glass tube impacts airflow, and would help those of us who are glass impaired.

 

[Bravesst]

The disc would not be in the tube, rather under, over, or in place of the 20 mm basket screen over the coil. It would have to be a thin ss (the foil I use in the oven is .05 mm thick) so as not to steal heat. Not sure ceramic would pair well (maybe I'm wrong), but I know we are already using wood and steel. The nice thing about this is how easy it will be to make prototypes. We could opt for a disc in the tube, but now you have another thing to keep clean. Also, I wouldn't worry about any shorts, we are not changing anything electrical, purely structural. The basket screen should be about 1/8 or so from the coil itself.

It seems to me that this may be a somewhat simple upgrade - if it works at all. It also may be a relatively simple retrofit, and be available to all previous customers (LB and Timber).

Divert, disperse, displace, damper, distribute, DISC.
--------------------------------------------------------------
November batch is coming along, but I had to scrap 4 units due to depth of mortises. The space between the battery and board compartments needs to be a 4 mm wall, somehow I went too deep by 1 mm on each side and when hand finishing I realized I only had 2 mm's (not ideal). I changed the bit in my router, readjusted to 23 mm, and banged out 7 units (vs 4). This should add a few extra units that will be available to ship in November and are as of yet - UNSOLD CHERRY AND WALNUT.

November Overbuild Sale
*TOOMANYTIMBERS* saves you a flat $25 on Timber. I will do my best to include the *diversion disc* upgrade, or make @Alan 's slit glass tube liners available with this batch.

 

[blokenoname]

@Alan mentioned something like this to me for dispersing the heat, when we last corresponded. For a Log vape with its tiny bowl size, I found that rather redundant, but with the bigger bowls, like in the iHeat or LB, I well see the point.

I'd try s/thing like a thin, concave formed ss disk with slits all around the sides and then a regular flat screen on top, for a debris screen.

And now I'm sitting here with my 0,1mm ss foil and wonder, how to give it a concave shape

 

[elykpeace]

Still rocking my timber tall boy thing won't quit!

I'd be interested in a ss lined wood wpa .. slightly smaller in diameter of the coil heater but add a bit of conduction to the outside rim and bring a consistent wave of heat through the entire bowl. The basket screens in a glass wpa are leaking air under the rim of the basket screens and it just doesn't work as well as the wood ? Idk why

 

[Facticity]

Heya! Any updates on the current batch? I'm eager to yell TIMBERRRRR

 

[Vaporooni]

I keep the herb at least 1/4 inch away from the heating coil without hot spots. I never tamp the herb so tight that air can't easy pass through it. The temp and how the herb is packed in the roasting tube might be the cause of hot spots. Nothing wrong with the Timber IMHO. Although updates are nice. Maybe use the SS heating coil as a screen over the SS heating coil. I believe the little holes in the SS foil would deliver the heat more evenly. I have two roasting tubes when it comes to passing, Mine and hers. No combustion for me thank you!

 

[Easywider]

Hot spot can also be directly effected by how your coil was made. If you take a light and shine it through your air intakes in a dark room you can get a good view of your coil. On my coil I have a spot where 3 of the fins are nearly touching each other. On the exact opposite side the spacing between fins is 3-4mm. I get hot spots 100% of the time directly over where the fins are tight on every bowl. I rotate my stem to achieve an even roast. It's not the end of the world. It's actually kind of nice to be able to take a fresh tasting hit every draw until I complete my circle. But when I want to just mindlessly hit this like a would a mighty or pass it to a friend that's where it looses it's luster for me. Id love to test out some vortex creating baffles or whatever else to resolve this issue. This is one HELL of an amazing vape, If I could hit it mindlessly it would be King of Hill in my books.

 

[Bravesst]

Timber will always have the minor irregularities of hand made, but no major discrepancies should be obvious. Lots of things cause hot spots with pure convection heating, and I'm sure an uneven coil doesn't help. If you feel it needs to replaced, please send it in. I've also gotten side tracked on my disc idea, but will be back at it next week.

The November batch is all pre-assembled. I have been taking extra time with coils, as well as everything else, especially since back from the mouth surgery. Five Timbers and 3 LB Classics are set to be assembled. I'll be needing some parts from @Alan to finalize (buttons for the board and tubes for the entire batch).

I'm beginning to really get the fact that that LB and Timber are connoisseur vapes, not really mass market. I'd go as far as to say that you need to be an experienced vapist to even appreciate it. With that realization comes the fact that sales will be limited, and that's always been the plan - small market of repeat customers.

I have to confess, I did get caught up building, selling. I think I may take a more relaxed approach, not really worry about *how many sales*, because at this point my overhead is low (I have all the tools and my shop is in my house), but my expenditure of time is very high. I will try very hard to keep to monthly shipping, and the November batch is on schedule.

 

[Bravesst]

Good morning FC!
Been thinking about the heat dispersion disc concept. How to easily, simply, divert air more to the circumference, instead of it mostly collecting in the center. Using the same foil I use for lining the oven, (.01 mm ss), at first I though a round disc with holes cut or punched in just the right pattern. Next, I got to thinking about a geometric shape, say a square, maybe with concave sides, long corners. This lead to me think triangle, maybe with a bit concave sides and long corners, creating 3 heat zones. Either way, I'm leaning towards a geometric shape with extended corners. May not be feasible as a retro fit (without changing the coil heater as well), but it will install easily over the basket screen, and be fixed in place. We shall see what happens...

 

[Bravesst]

I am happy to officially announce that Timber 2 is now on the drawing board.

I am announcing this now because I'm sure the OG Timber sales will slow, and I realistically need the time to R & D T2. Here's what on the table.

We've talked about it, but the heat diversion disc idea is too good to ignore. I've got some ss discs on the way that may make this a simple operation. Possibly cooling fins for the upper section cut into the available extra wood around the oven. This maybe be slight, as the unit already runs pretty cool, but I feel it'll offer a great look and tactile experience if done right. Potentially rethinking battery compartment, too early to comment, but this could be the key to a smaller, easier to build, potentially more economical, Timber. Also working on the software, and a simpler user interface.

First, I will finish up the current batch, and all necessary parts should arrive in the next week or so. I've just done a bunch of hand sanding, magnets holes, and about to apply the wax - the signal that we are in the home stretch.

It's time to put the *full* in full steam ahead!

 

[sickmanfraud]

Maybe a simple X, with a meaty center would work, or even a simple slash, or even possibly a full sized perforated disc, with possibly some kind of press jig to punch all the holes.

Sorry I am a bit behind. If you want to see if different patterns of perforations improve performance I suggest you start with S&B dosing capsules and "close" the unwanted holes.

While you are making changes have you considered a 2 battery Timber Elite?

I have used DNA color mods for over a year, but I would still appreciate a short explanation of the different Timber Elite modes?

I have only had my Timber Elite for a couple of weeks, but it has become my go-to vape. I haven't used any of my Splinters in over a week.

 

[Bravesst]

Working on the cover plate today. I need six to complete the batch. I decided to build a new cover plate template and tweak specs a bit further. These cover plates will be close to perfect. Thankfully, I have one full set of buttons I can test with.

I formed a half dozen or so *heat dispersion discs* out of my SS foil, I also ordered some preformed discs, which are probably a heavier gauge. I wonder if a small round disc in the dead center might be all we need. I can test this out on one of the new units (making an extra one for my testing ). I'd have to figure out how to fix in place.

Hopefully, all parts will arrive soon, and I can finalize this batch, but all is on schedule.

 

[Facticity]

If you find an easy-to-apply solution for even heat dispersion, I would be glad to try it in my Timber in this batch and be a guinea pig for this run

 

[Bravesst]

All cover plates roughed out, still waiting on buttons for final assembly of November batch. These plates were made from a new template and I am quite excited to see how it comes together. In the meantime some ss discs arrived. Once this batch is done, time to see what I can do with a ss *heat dispersion disc*. It is 3/8 dia, thin gauge, and might just function as is. The challenge will be installation, or how to fix in place - simply. I have a few ideas on how to install this 3/8 dot / disc in the center of our basket screen, forcing the heat to waft up around the perimeter. The tiny, thin gauge, ss disc may rob some heat, but it might be the price we have to pay for more even heating. I still don't think any conduction is possible, because the ss will never make contact with the bowl. There may be some heat retention, which may speed up back to back hits, but on demand convection has no problem with rapid hits in general. Or, it may not add to the experience at all, only a prototype will tell.

 

[Bravesst]

Happy Monday!
My new coverplate template is producing even better plates, very happy with it. I've been making them a hair thicker as well. As soon as buttons arrive, final assembly will begin, and the November batch will be finalized. Units are looking good in pre-assembly, and I'm really looking forward to getting this batch out there.

I seem to be coming out of my mouth / sinus pain. My bone graft healed, but I got a sinus infection that caused another severe toothache. Long story, but hopefully I am on the mend once again. Thanks for bearing with me during this time, and excuse my absence - been a tough month.

 

[beyond6strings]

Happy Monday!
My new coverplate template is producing even better plates, very happy with it. I've been making them a hair thicker as well. As soon as buttons arrive, final assembly will begin, and the November batch will be finalized. Units are looking good in pre-assembly, and I'm really looking forward to getting this batch out there.

I seem to be coming out of my mouth / sinus pain. My bone graft healed, but I got a sinus infection that caused another severe toothache. Long story, but hopefully I am on the mend once again. Thanks for bearing with me during this time, and excuse my absence - been a tough month.

Feel better. Dental/Sinus pain is tough to deal with, tough to find relief. Sorry man. And probably one of the few things vaping can't help with either. Cheers.