The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[BearFuur]

I was curious if anybody else's VI is starting to move faster after breaking in the head after a little while? On hit #87 I also noticed the first click isn't anywhere nearly as loud as it used to be, which caused me to to think the 2nd click was the 1st click. I ended up taking it to the 3rd notch. Avoided combustion when I saw vapor billowing out of the head by utizling the reload.

I've only taken 3 hits since. But I've noticed each time the VI is riding through the slot faster than the handful of previous hits, the 1st click is kind of faint and not completely in sync when the VI hits the 1st notch and it seems to not take as much time in between clicks.

Something that may be noted is I went from using the wand at about 550-600f on a fresh pair of cells to setting the wand at 800°F and pulling the Tempest out upon hearing the 2nd click I'd say maybe 20 hits or so ago. I appreciate any input

 

[General Disaster]

How easy are others finding it to remove the ball retaining screen? I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my thread, it just won't go in without bending a "spoke" on it.

I'd study the excellent manual page MH have on their website. You'll find this (among many other useful gems) is explained - you must have that bend for the screen to be able to follow what is a spiralling thread (like most threads). It's the very reason the screen is not a complete disk - those slots running from circumference to centre are exactly to allow that bend. If it's not there, if the disk looks flat in the head, then it's probably not secure!

the 1st click is kind of faint and not completely in sync when the VI hits the 1st notch

Are you aware there is no linkage between the disks and the Vi at all, They operate in isolation. The disks will even change with use, while the Vi should remain pretty constant in behaviour (unless reassembled or overheated).

 

[GnarlyVandal]

How easy are others finding it to remove the ball retaining screen? I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my thread, it just won't go in without bending a "spoke" on it.

That’s normal, if you give it a good shake and the screens not loose, it’s nothing to worry about.

 

[BushRanger]

Felt like one of those days to put the wood sleeve on...

Watch Tempest-Wand on tray at fireplace | Streamable

Watch "Tempest-Wand on tray at fireplace" on Streamable.

streamable.com

 

[AndyO]

That’s normal, if you give it a good shake and the screens not loose, it’s nothing to worry about.

Among the many things that make me crazy is OCD... I can get the screen to stay in just by cross threading it and giving it a push.

But my head would probably explode if I tried to use it like that.

 

[General Disaster]

Among the many things that make me crazy is OCD... I can get the screen to stay in just by cross threading it and giving it a push.

But my head would probably explode if I tried to use it like that.

I'd stick to following MadHeaters instructions if I were you. Pretty much everything on the 'pest is designed for a reason, the screen included, and in that case it's a safety factor, as a bunch of loose hot balls landing on your balls (or whatever gendered genitalia you possess) isn't the most appealing pastime (unless you're somewhat masochistic?).

Actually just had a sub par experience with some lighter, fluffy herb. Vapor production wasn’t that great and the stem got pretty hot for 2 bowls. This strain is fine through the desktops though.

Just a thought and may not apply - but try letting it dry out a bit in the air (a day or two maybe?), then grind and vape. The grind should break it up better into smaller fragments - although if it's too dry it'll get a bit dusty and may block the airflow too much, which is not so good.

 

[delta hotel]

Have you tried moving the wand adapter?

Yes, several times.

ALL of them? I suspect not, just all the one's you've thought of?

Guessing (correct me if I'm wrong) but you've not had it long. There's a lot to play with on these things, maybe you should have persisted with the zirc's before changing your balls so soon? Different matrix material will change a lot of factors in it's using it

Sounds like you're putting too much heat into it? Tempest is usually pretty good at avoiding combustion.

Yeah, definitely sounds like over heating. Along with airflow maybe, not a clear enough throughput of hot air.

Seriously? Every single attempt always roasts yer bud? It really does sound like you're over doing the heat.

Maybe call out some of your settings? What levels on the Ti are you going to? What wand settings? Running to time-out or solid-light? What 'pest settings you're running on for airflow? How you're drawing on it, and is it mtl or dtl. etc etc.

I've had it for 2+ weeks, and it's been the only device I've used in that time, as I'm trying to get it down. I used the zirc for 1.5 weeks before I decided to try something else. Similar results, just with more punch. And yes, almost every attempt roasts it, and if I don't "overdo" the heat, then I get near nothing. I found out I was putting too much heat into it, too fast initially and have backed that off some, but if I don't it seems like I get NOTHING at all? That's how I got to the area of there is no middle ground or light roast, it's just inconsistent char or nothing.

It's the only device I've used and I've consistently been playing with torch power, Wand power (how am I managing to deliver too much heat with the Wand AND torch?) and the other variables.

I did try something last night, I've been chasing that dark single color extraction throughout that I'm used to and thought of something. I've adjusted my draw speed but less my draw length. I finally hit another portable last night since I've had my tempest and even at a higher power it took me a few pulls to clear it. Something clicked in my brain with that- with my desktop ball vape I usually turn it up kinda high and just one shot a bowl with no stirring or reheating. I've kinda been chasing this hit with a Tempest and I think that's where my issue lies. I kept hearing about the 1 heat extraction, but I think I was also trying to treat it like my desktop and taking waaaaayyy too long of a pull and just sucking all the heat out into the top without a break, charring it and also dumping the heat from the balls quicker than necessary. Instead of chasing clearing the whole bowl in one pull, I broke it up into smaller , but still large pulls and it was much more consistent. I'm going to try again today and see if this solves my problem. My simple monkey brain saw ball vape and treated it like my desktop and it took hitting something else to remember that even on other devices where I'm chasing a similar roast to, it takes a few to consistently clear something through.

 

[General Disaster]

I've kinda been chasing this hit with a Tempest and I think that's where my issue lies. I kept hearing about the 1 heat extraction, but I think I was also trying to treat it like my desktop and taking waaaaayyy too long of a pull and just sucking all the heat out into the top without a break, charring it and also dumping the heat from the balls quicker than necessary.

That sounds quite possible. It does have a different profile to a desktop job. Also, the boro's do indeed give a punchier hit, but the way they both heat up, and how that heat dissipates as you draw on it, isn't the same as with the zirc's. I find it takes less heating on the wand too, maybe 40℃ less, but this means it holds the heat for less time, fewer calories going into the matrix.

I think because the matrix has a lower heat capacity than most desktop ball vapes, the draw speed and duration make a much larger difference on the Tempest. Glad you've hit on the factor that was holding back good results. Enjoy!

 

[.d]

we should do a tempest configuration thread and name them something catchy, there are so many configurations and I'm having trouble remembering what I tried and what I still need to try. these face melting hits arent making it easier to remember

example:
how you are you running your tempest? I'm doing the free willy.
(which would be lets say the direct tube with the bypass setting and cap fully open)

 

[Tji89]

I received my package. Very happy and pleased.

BIG appreciation to Brenyo and MadHeaters. Might be the best vape shop I've experienced. Shopped there twice and both times was superb. You're doing a fantastic job, @Brenyo.

Happy customer from Norway.

 

[n3hemiah]

Among the many things that make me crazy is OCD... I can get the screen to stay in just by cross threading it and giving it a push.

But my head would probably explode if I tried to use it like that.

if it makes you feel any better - I think one spoke appears to be "off" because the spokes are following a spiral screw thread, so you're seeing the last leaf juxtaposed with the first leaf at a lower elevation.

I also find it very annoying to change the ball screen but I get much better results using the Reload's screwdriver than the one in the leather case. The Reload screwdriver has the divot at the end so you apply force directly downwards. I also try to hold the head level so gravity doesn't skew it to one side.

edit: I also get much better results by thoroughly flattening the screen every time I replace it. I use the "handle" of the Reload screwdriver to sort of "stamp" the middle of the screen while it lays on a flat surface. One thorough stamp on each side.

 

[cybrguy]

How easy are others finding it to remove the ball retaining screen? I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my thread, it just won't go in without bending a "spoke" on it.

I find if I rotate the screen counterclockwise a turn or two it seats better at the bottom and when I turn it clockwise it all stays within the thread without a leaf outside it. I also find it completely secure. I have never had the balls come out accidentally.

 

[organogenesis]

People talking about the wand adapter depth like it is tricky to get it right - am I missing something?

When I installed the adapter, I pushed it all the way in from below, as far as it goes, and at that point it is exactly like in the manual. So wouldnt the best instruction for anyone having issues - just push it all the way in? Or is it better NOT all the way in after all? Am I missing out on The Next Level?

 

[n0tu2]

I was curious if anybody else's VI is starting to move faster after breaking in the head after a little while? On hit #87 I also noticed the first click isn't anywhere nearly as loud as it used to be, which caused me to to think the 2nd click was the 1st click. I ended up taking it to the 3rd notch. Avoided combustion when I saw vapor billowing out of the head by utizling the reload.

I've only taken 3 hits since. But I've noticed each time the VI is riding through the slot faster than the handful of previous hits, the 1st click is kind of faint and not completely in sync when the VI hits the 1st notch and it seems to not take as much time in between clicks.

Something that may be noted is I went from using the wand at about 550-600f on a fresh pair of cells to setting the wand at 800°F and pulling the Tempest out upon hearing the 2nd click I'd say maybe 20 hits or so ago. I appreciate any input

Mine has been similar. Did a few extra empty bowl tests with torch and wand (burns off left over resin too from past bowls). Always one faint click and then one loud snap click. In the wand the faint click comes around 2.25 level marker and loud around 2.70 level.. indicator keeps climbing to 3 after pulling out of wand at first loud snap/click.. but never gets past 3 ..just starting to touch level 3. I even put it back in for 15-20 more seconds no second click came.. so faint is the 1st click..loud is 2nd click (maybe 2 together since so loud)

Using the torch the faint click comes around 1.75 level and loud around 2.50.. torch (triple flame) throws more heat in faster then wand.. clicks sooner when comparing to VI/wand VI.

Cool down click from a faint click only (no second click -- pull out at faint click) is about 50 seconds (then hear a faint cool down click).. from after a loud (full time out) click after pull out it takes around 4m50sec to 5min15sec until loud cool down click. When I hear the loud cool down click (at this point) the cap is warm to very warm and you can touch it without being burned. Seems to have to cool down 85-90٪ of the original heating to get the clickers to do a loud cool down click. The VI indicator lowers to coolest setting pretty quickly though - maybe in a minute or so after putting it on the magnet.. just a long lag until cool down click from the loud one for me.

I have my wand insert's bottom glass level with the wands red oring.. so no guessing at wand adapter depth and can mess with wand temp instead. If I set it to 480F I get just the faint click at timeout.. keep going up 10F until you get the loud click exactly at Time out. Have to start from completely cool tempest each time until you find the 'from cold' loud click at the Time out. Then adjust from there.. using torch its more of a gut feeling with initial and subsequent reheats yeah everyones method is different there is no right way.. my testing might be too complicated for you ..just heat and go.. just have to make it your own!

 

[Octavia]

People talking about the wand adapter depth like it is tricky to get it right - am I missing something?

When I installed the adapter, I pushed it all the way in from below, as far as it goes, and at that point it is exactly like in the manual. So wouldnt the best instruction for anyone having issues - just push it all the way in? Or is it better NOT all the way in after all? Am I missing out on The Next Level?

If it works then you should be fine! For my adapter the silicone sleeve would stick out and block the VI when fully inserted, so I had to remove the glass insert, add the silicone then put the insert back in.

If I had bothered to actually read the manual at this point rather than just skimming I probably would’ve avoided my first scorched bowl since I thought I had set the bowl correctly, but ended up a few mm too deep. Definitely easier to follow the manual and insert the adapter flush, then push it downward to the correct spot rather than try and insert to the correct spot since wands usually have a bit of variation in their magnetic fields.

 

[.d]

As someone who read the manual like 10 times, I can't get a single bad hit so far.

Question for the more experienced tempesters - what can I get if I decrease the cap air intake? Is there any advantage to lowering it if I don't have trouble with the fully open one? Or am I missing the point? Different pulling style? Is that better for mouth to lung?

 

[RedZep]

As someone who read the manual like 10 times, I can't get a single bad hit so far.

Question for the more experienced tempesters - what can I get if I decrease the cap air intake? Is there any advantage to lowering it if I don't have trouble with the fully open one? Or am I missing the point? Different pulling style? Is that better for mouth to lung?

I think it's more about how you are using. For example I close the tip off 3/4 when I'm using in WPA mode. That's because I use small glass bubblers that have loads of chug. So it just slows down the extraction to ensure full roast.

So think of it in terms of how much suction is happening. If I have the tip airflow fully open with a stem, then I slow down my inhale to compensate.

Others might have other insights.

 

[0796]

It takes some time for the heat being applied to the SS sleeve (both torch and IH) to work it's way through the whole matrix and adjacent metal parts, and that will also depend on the thermal conductivity of the matrix material, so if you whip it out the Wand and use immediately on cut-off it'll behave different to leaving for 10/20 seconds then using (and other variations).
This becomes more obvious when doing a reheat while still warm - the indicator will not give the same reading etc. (you have to keep them a bit lower or risk a combust).
Positioning will also make a difference, heating the matrix further up or nearer the bowl (with attendant conduction into the bowl). Change of where heat is applied may require change in heat timing etc.

The type of weed, how it's been cured, the way it's shredded, how it's packed in the bowl and how much, will all make a difference too. I find for one draw DTL extractions, less is more - shred fairly fine (esp hard lumps) but pack light, max airflow.

Comments on draw speed and airflow settings - absolutely! Changes profile of heat transfer from matrix to bowl significantly. Even different techniques through the extraction - e.g. an initial very light slow draw to bring the bowl up to temp (similar effect to using conduction to pre-heat the bowl) then a deep long hard DTL can work quite well (depending on what you're after).

 

[hazyy1]

Anyone give me any recommendations?

I’m currently using the full bowl. Heating with the wand at 535.

I’m having issues where the top of the bowl seems to be roasted towards the line or combustion. And then there is this last layer that’s always lightly roasted. Any recs on a more even roasted bowl? Air port is at 75% and currently set at open on the stem

Am I just packing too much? Doesn’t seem like I am. But that’s the next thjng I’m gonna try unless someone states otherwise.

I tried following the manual regarding starting at 550 for zirc but it just combusts the bowl if I go to time out. Tried different adapter settings per the manual.

Lighter even roast suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Octavia]

Anyone give me any recommendations?

I’m currently using the full bowl. Heating with the wand at 535.

I’m having issues where the top of the bowl seems to be roasted towards the line or combustion. And then there is this last layer that’s always lightly roasted. Any recs on a more even roasted bowl? Air port is at 75% and currently set at open on the stem

Am I just packing too much? Doesn’t seem like I am. But that’s the next thjng I’m gonna try unless someone states otherwise.

I tried following the manual regarding starting at 550 for zirc but it just combusts the bowl if I go to time out. Tried different adapter settings per the manual.

Lighter even roast suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Try:
To fix top level scorching:
- set head airport to 50% or lower
Or
- draw slower

To prevent full bowl combustion:
- push the wand adapter up a bit further. Easiest way for me was to set the glass flush with the bottom of the wand, then push it back out slowly with the tempest until I could just read the VI.

Combusting before timeout at 290c indicates your adapter is seated too deep, and scorching on top of the load is usually caused by drawing too quickly.

 

[hazyy1]

Try:
To fix top level scorching:
- set head airport to 50% or lower
Or
- draw slower

To prevent full bowl combustion:
- push the wand adapter up a bit further. Easiest way for me was to set the glass flush with the bottom of the wand, then push it back out slowly with the tempest until I could just read the VI.

Combusting before timeout at 290c indicates your adapter is seated too deep, and scorching on top of the load is usually caused by drawing too quickly.

Thanks for this.

Also, I read a few posts up that I should try drawing in little breaks than one long draw which is what I’ve become accustomed too with dv and the anvil.

I do draw slowly but it’s been one continuous draw. Do you suggest I do break up the draws rather than one continuous one?

I think one of my first bowls the airport was at 25% and I think it did roast more evenly. I’ll try and reset the adaptor again so I can just see the VI

Thanks again! Still a great vape. Getting some massive rips and while I haven’t combusted. I’ve coming very close to the line. Just want to figure out how to get more tasty rips

 

[delta hotel]

Anyone give me any recommendations?

I’m currently using the full bowl. Heating with the wand at 535.

I’m having issues where the top of the bowl seems to be roasted towards the line or combustion. And then there is this last layer that’s always lightly roasted. Any recs on a more even roasted bowl? Air port is at 75% and currently set at open on the stem

Am I just packing too much? Doesn’t seem like I am. But that’s the next thjng I’m gonna try unless someone states otherwise.

I tried following the manual regarding starting at 550 for zirc but it just combusts the bowl if I go to time out. Tried different adapter settings per the manual.

Lighter even roast suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

This is the experience I spoke of previously. I'm still working out how to avoid that, and if I do I'll let you know!

I've actually OPENED the airport some and slowed my draw some, and I aim for about 3, 4 max to clear the full bowl setting.

EDIT:

Thanks for this.

Also, I read a few posts up that I should try drawing in little breaks than one long draw which is what I’ve become accustomed too with dv and the anvil.

I do draw slowly but it’s been one continuous draw. Do you suggest I do break up the draws rather than one continuous one?

I think one of my first bowls the airport was at 25% and I think it did roast more evenly. I’ll try and reset the adaptor again so I can just see the VI

Thanks again! Still a great vape. Getting some massive rips and while I haven’t combusted. I’ve coming very close to the line. Just want to figure out how to get more tasty rips

This is EXACTLY what I was doing due to my experience with the Anvil previously. Break up your draws and aim for around 3-4 to clear a bowl and see how it works out.

 

[Octavia]

Thanks for this.

Also, I read a few posts up that I should try drawing in little breaks than one long draw which is what I’ve become accustomed too with dv and the anvil.

I do draw slowly but it’s been one continuous draw. Do you suggest I do break up the draws rather than one continuous one?

Breaks are probably helpful. I treat this kinda like a joint where I do a few smaller sips rather than 1 long draw since native/through a j hook is too much for me. Biggest impact I’ve seen though is to take 1 slow initial sip to reduce heat a bit, then finish the bowl how you want.

With a properly slow draw though I can do a long single hit extraction, but I really prefer the toke style for all my devices. Really like this device but it definitely seems to have a bigger calibration curve than my others.

 

[hazyy1]

This is the experience I spoke of previously. I'm still working out how to avoid that, and if I do I'll let you know!

I've actually OPENED the airport some and slowed my draw some, and I aim for about 3, 4 max to clear the full bowl setting.

EDIT:


This is EXACTLY what I was doing due to my experience with the Anvil previously. Break up your draws and aim for around 3-4 to clear a bowl and see how it works out.

This did the trick! Breaking it up. Need to remember the balls retain heat longer than something like an anvil where you kinda want to take advantage of the thermal battery before it disapants.

I just did another bowl at 540 and with just a lighter pack (straw draw method) and got an even roast more or less but pretty light. I think if I crank to 550 I’ll get that medium coffee ground brown.

Thanks everyone! I knew there were gonna be some minor tweaks but it makes the vape very fascinating rather than fustrating.

 

[n0tu2]

This is the experience I spoke of previously. I'm still working out how to avoid that, and if I do I'll let you know!

I've actually OPENED the airport some and slowed my draw some, and I aim for about 3, 4 max to clear the full bowl setting.

EDIT:


This is EXACTLY what I was doing due to my experience with the Anvil previously. Break up your draws and aim for around 3-4 to clear a bowl and see how it works out.

same. 3 to 4 draws of 10 seconds or so.. mostly stem airport is closed and then feather towards the end of the draw and pull a little harder when feathering.. depending on how much heat you gave it initially means it could be done in 3 or 4 or you can reheat and go again for another 4.. if u pull it at the 1st faint click 1st round and do 3 draws.. open the bowl and take a look.. might be golden abv.. with 3 verrrry tasty whispy hits.. second go it will be brown and a lot more vapor.. if u heated to timeout and past 2nd click on first go it might be very dark or almost black after 3 hits.. and brutal hot native hits.. fine for bubblers or lungs and throat of steel lol

of course that depends on wand adapter depth.. a deeper adapter 550 is hotter roast then 550 when its level. I use level glass to bottom because it's easy to remove and re-set.. if you ever have to take it out.. good luck finding your perfect depth again..

the manual pic with tempest in wand view from below is deceptive ..as long as the rubber sleeve isn't low/sticking out having the adapter bottom glass level with wand bottom/bottom oring u can see the VI if you peek in at a slight angle with wand upsidown. the manual pic makes it look like it's sticking out 5mm beyond the bottom of the wand.. it's not.. it's a slightly angled view/pic and makes adapter look much deeper then it is.. can you have it 3-4-5mm past wand bottom..sure but you will have to adjust your wand temp accordingly! 475 might be like a 550 roast if that adapter is really deep.. so 550 would=combustion