The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

Tji89

Well-Known Member
My Tempest is getting a little hot to hold, like not being able to hold it. Did two heat ups with the wand on 290c. Any clue what it can be?

Checked if I did something wrong reasembling it, but don't really know what I'm looking for. Thinking there's a part not in yet or oring perhaps.
 
Tji89,

sansei

I'm not here for a long time, but for a good time
How easy are others finding it to remove the ball retaining screen? I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my thread, it just won't go in without bending a "spoke" on it.
mine also slightly bends, but the balls stay put just fine. for reference, I have changed out balls 5 times.
 
sansei,
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GnarlyVandal

Well-Known Member
we should do a tempest configuration thread and name them something catchy, there are so many configurations and I'm having trouble remembering what I tried and what I still need to try. these face melting hits arent making it easier to remember :D

example:
how you are you running your tempest? I'm doing the free willy.
(which would be lets say the direct tube with the bypass setting and cap fully open)
That is hilarious. And this is actually how I have my tempest right now! I’m using a half closed stem Free Willy 😂✌️and I will now forever call it that.

Running 50/50 stainless steel balls and zirc which is nice. I am thinking of just going back to full zirc though.
 
GnarlyVandal,
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ezpz

Well-Known Member
My Tempest is getting a little hot to hold, like not being able to hold it
This happens with the Ti stem and helix tube. Stem will be less hot with the direct tube, but harsher vapor. You could switch to the wooden stem (if you have one) and it won’t get that hot (barely even warm). Just know that with the wood stem, the heat will stay longer within the stem, so subsequent bowls will get harsher vapor than you would with the Ti stem.
 

hazyy1

Well-Known Member
same. 3 to 4 draws of 10 seconds or so.. mostly stem airport is closed and then feather towards the end of the draw and pull a little harder when feathering.. depending on how much heat you gave it initially means it could be done in 3 or 4 or you can reheat and go again for another 4.. if u pull it at the 1st faint click 1st round and do 3 draws.. open the bowl and take a look.. might be golden abv.. with 3 verrrry tasty whispy hits.. second go it will be brown and a lot more vapor.. if u heated to timeout and past 2nd click on first go it might be very dark or almost black after 3 hits.. and brutal hot native hits.. fine for bubblers or lungs and throat of steel lol

of course that depends on wand adapter depth.. a deeper adapter 550 is hotter roast then 550 when its level. I use level glass to bottom because it's easy to remove and re-set.. if you ever have to take it out.. good luck finding your perfect depth again..

the manual pic with tempest in wand view from below is deceptive ..as long as the rubber sleeve isn't low/sticking out having the adapter bottom glass level with wand bottom/bottom oring u can see the VI if you peek in at a slight angle with wand upsidown. the manual pic makes it look like it's sticking out 5mm beyond the bottom of the wand.. it's not.. it's a slightly angled view/pic and makes adapter look much deeper then it is.. can you have it 3-4-5mm past wand bottom..sure but you will have to adjust your wand temp accordingly! 475 might be like a 550 roast if that adapter is really deep.. so 550 would=combustion
still getting a top layer of riding the line roast with the bottom layer still very green... Can't seem to get an even roast. Doesn't feel like I'm packing too tightly. Maybe even less? I'm drawing in breaks which I'm finding is resulting in uneven roasts. But when I do long steady MTL draw, I get very close to combusting. My air port is about 50% wand 550 to time out and I'm set about middle based on the manual "the markings on the tip"

Thanks again. I mean its still giving me great rips and I like that I can take my time "relatively" but the uneven roasts are really throwing me a curve.
 
hazyy1,

Feyd2blak

Well-Known Member
still getting a top layer of riding the line roast with the bottom layer still very green... Can't seem to get an even roast. Doesn't feel like I'm packing too tightly. Maybe even less? I'm drawing in breaks which I'm finding is resulting in uneven roasts. But when I do long steady MTL draw, I get very close to combusting. My air port is about 50% wand 550 to time out and I'm set about middle based on the manual "the markings on the tip"

Thanks again. I mean its still giving me great rips and I like that I can take my time "relatively" but the uneven roasts are really throwing me a curve.
Tried setting the wand adaptor higher? I found that helps with an even roast, just in case the top of the bowl is catching too much heat in the wand?
 
Feyd2blak,

hazyy1

Well-Known Member
Ym
Tried setting the wand adaptor higher? I found that helps with an even roast, just in case the top of the bowl is catching too much heat in the wand
Yeah! Just tried that and adding the bud right up to the side holes (in the bowl) and found it to get a more even roast.
Also realized that these bowls are bigger than they look.
 
hazyy1,
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