The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

ibnganja

Well-Known Member
I got mine and I'm ecstatic.

Observation:
- using with the wand is incredible. So fast. So smooth. So intense MTL hits.
- only issue is it's perfect on the FIRST hit. I still haven't figured out subsequent bowls. Will experiment further.

Question:
- dumb Q but how do I change the sleeve? I wanna try the wood one but wasn't able to get the metal sleeve off. Tips for removal?
 

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
Huh? Rapid cooldown? Why cool it down?! Just top off the heat looking at the VI when you feel its not producing enough vapor anymore.
LoL
Just quoted you to say that my cat is called "Muzieksken"....
Hahaha, that's almost exactly how i read your forumname! And i thought her name was very unique...
:D :tup:

Meet Muzieksken, your namesake:




Also: i do agree with your statement that there's no need to cool it down but i have to add that i never had to reheat a bowl with weed: it's always done in one heating cycle.
Still: i usually quickly refill the bowl and use the remaining heat in the head to take a terpy low temp flavor hit on the new bowl, to get a small pre-taste of the bowl to come!

However when i use hash i sometimes do need a reheat, depending on how full the bowl is. ;)
 

General Disaster

A Total disMember
Question:
- dumb Q but how do I change the sleeve? I wanna try the wood one but wasn't able to get the metal sleeve off. Tips for removal?
Just gently pull the mouth piece holding the air flow adjustment collar so you remove the whole helix, then push gently into the mouth piece end of wooden sleeve. The do the same with the bowl at the other end, and pop that one the bowl end of wooden stem.

If you find it hard to remove the parts, try having a hit, and then dismantle before it fully cools down - this makes the reclaim less viscose and softens the o-rings a bit. Pull gently to avoid ripping the o-rings or you'll need news ones for the wooden stem.
 
Guys I combusted a few times, and the following bowls kinda had the same flavour has the combustion ones, do i have to clean the device to get rid of that smell, or am i tripping with the smell and tomorrow it will be gone? Haven't even done 10 bowls, i dont want to deep clean it again:sherlock:
 

General Disaster

A Total disMember
Guys I combusted a few times, and the following bowls kinda had the same flavour has the combustion ones, do i have to clean the device to get rid of that smell, or am i tripping with the smell and tomorrow it will be gone? Haven't even done 10 bowls, i dont want to deep clean it again:sherlock:
The smell will likely fade with time and use (especially with use as the heat evaporates some of the aromatic compounds formed by the combustion). But generally, it's stinky and horrible and you want to clean it out. A quick go with some iso on the helix/mouthpiece and the inside of the sleeve should get rid of most if you're feeling lazy or rushed. Q-tip soaked in iso works well for a fast rub down (fnaar fnaar).

Think of it this way, the PITA that cleaning it creates, will help educate your anti-combustion processes.
The more of a pain, the less likely you'll do it again! 😄
 

n3hemiah

Well-Known Member
Guys I combusted a few times, and the following bowls kinda had the same flavour has the combustion ones, do i have to clean the device to get rid of that smell, or am i tripping with the smell and tomorrow it will be gone? Haven't even done 10 bowls, i dont want to deep clean it again:sherlock:
I always clean after combustion bc it always leaves a stinky burned residue. Personally I find that soap and water is better for smoke odor than iso. Ymmv!
 
I always clean after combustion bc it always leaves a stinky burned residue. Personally I find that soap and water is better for smoke odor than iso. Ymmv!
How do you do it with the soap? Is the water warm? Do you scrub or just let it stay there, and for how long? Thanks in advance for the tips
 
BagaDiLhuga,

General Disaster

A Total disMember
I mentioned iso for a fast rough clean up. I don't use soap & water myself but then I have less olfactory sense than a common house brick, so don't tend to notice any lingering taste or smell.

Some general rules though:
  • Hot works better than cold (better solubility).
  • A little detergent makes a big difference.
  • A mix of iso and soapy water even better (but if it's warm the iso will evaporate quickly and stink the place out a bit (watch for naked flames too)).
  • The heater should be ok, no need to clean, as it shouldn't have had any smoke going through it.
  • Sugar soap or industrial detergents are even better but rather aggressive on flesh (rubber gloves and safety specs time).
But I'm sure those who don't use iso will have other useful tips.

Advantages of iso are it's a very effective solvent that'll dissolve a wide range of compounds quite well.
It dries much quicker than water.
It's pretty much non toxic, or as non toxic as ethanol (I'm assuming you're not going to guzzle a litre or so while you're cleaning yer vape), even if you ended up inhaling a little bit of vapour from it, it's not likely to do you much harm.
But avoid using on the wood sleeve - just a q-tip in iso used to clean the internal stainless steel bore.
 

.d

Wubba Lubba dub-dub
Hello everyone! I did a short video review on youtube. It is in Spanish, but maybe, with automatic subtitles or just with the images, it can help some people who don’t know how to disassemble the tempest or prefer a visual example instead reading the manual

watched it two times while waiting for my tempest. great video overall, watched with english subtitles. thanks
 

AndyO

Well-Known Member
Well, until you said that I hadn't assumed it, but now...? You just turned a nothing into a something!

For what it's worth...

Heating technique makes a big difference, not just the time in the IH or the click or the Ti or the temp setting in the Wand (etc etc). It takes some time for the heat being applied to the SS sleeve (both torch and IH) to work it's way through the whole matrix and adjacent metal parts, and that will also depend on the thermal conductivity of the matrix material, so if you whip it out the Wand and use immediately on cut-off it'll behave different to leaving for 10/20 seconds then using (and other variations).
This becomes more obvious when doing a reheat while still warm - the indicator will not give the same reading etc. (you have to keep them a bit lower or risk a combust).
Positioning will also make a difference, heating the matrix further up or nearer the bowl (with attendant conduction into the bowl). Change of where heat is applied may require change in heat timing etc.

The type of weed, how it's been cured, the way it's shredded, how it's packed in the bowl and how much, will all make a difference too. I find for one draw DTL extractions, less is more - shred fairly fine (esp hard lumps) but pack light, max airflow.

Comments on draw speed and airflow settings - absolutely! Changes profile of heat transfer from matrix to bowl significantly. Even different techniques through the extraction - e.g. an initial very light slow draw to bring the bowl up to temp (similar effect to using conduction to pre-heat the bowl) then a deep long hard DTL can work quite well (depending on what you're after).

That's great man, thanks so much for this!

I question how much difference the actual weed will make, it's pretty negligible with the other 20 vapes I own. But everything else you've written makes total sense :tup:
 

hazyy1

Well-Known Member
Just got my purple/lime green and after a clean and drying. So far….

I’m really digging it. Got my airport half way open and using it open currently.

I do have a question regarding the wand. I’m currently running it at 535 but it seems like pushing the line. Getting great hits but the ABV is pretty dark. Would going higher to 550 and making the ball chamber heat up faster give me a lighter roast?

Sorry might be stupid question. But I’m stoned and can’t keep smoking rn haha.
 

General Disaster

A Total disMember
That's great man, thanks so much for this!

I question how much difference the actual weed will make, it's pretty negligible with the other 20 vapes I own. But everything else you've written makes total sense :tup:
Can only speak for the range of stuff I've had, but some are light and leafy, some dense, some very fine and some course in texture, etc.
If you look at what you've prepared to vape under a microscope you'll see very different shaped particles, the amount of water in them varies, the air will flow differently through them, the surface area to volume ratio will be different, the wicking ability different and so on. It's not the biggest factor but still can make a difference.
Would going higher to 550 and making the ball chamber heat up faster give me a lighter roast?
Um, I think it must be working! Try the other way round ... lower temp will equal lighter roast. But other factors like how you draw through it can also affect the temp of the weed.
 

delta hotel

Well-Known Member
I've gotten better adjusting various things, but I've yet to get a consistently roasted hit after playing with ALL of the variables. The top is dark, and the bottom is just a light roast, and then there's combustion. There's no middle ground and I've adjusted the air flow, the stem control, lighters, different packs and material, Wand temps. I get good hits (usually) if it's not quitting on me before I'm done.

Granted, this is with the boro balls, I thought I liked the punchier hit, but I'm about to switch back to the original zirc balls. I like the vape, but I'd really like to continue to try to dial it in, but I'm tired of wasting bowls on combustion too.

I can't even get it to light roast really- it's the dark roast top with light bottom or combustion. I try not to mention other vapes in this thread, but my only other butane experience is with the Anvil so I'm thinking part of the remaining thing to figure out is the heating (torch or Wand, the Wand lends to inconsistent roasts too!) and maybe my draw.

Again, I like the vape but no matter what I adjust, I'm getting the same experience that I find hard to dial in, which seems odd with some many fiddley options.
 

.d

Wubba Lubba dub-dub
I hope the automatic english subtitles are more than “meh” :lol:
it was easily understandable, but even without subtitles it’s a very educational video , well done

this thing keeps slapping me consistently on whichever settings and stems I tried.
The wand timeout tech is what i used for all so far and it’s so freaking convenient that i don’t need to try anything else for now until i find my go to setting
 
I've gotten better adjusting various things, but I've yet to get a consistently roasted hit after playing with ALL of the variables. The top is dark, and the bottom is just a light roast, and then there's combustion. There's no middle ground and I've adjusted the air flow, the stem control, lighters, different packs and material, Wand temps. I get good hits (usually) if it's not quitting on me before I'm done.

Granted, this is with the boro balls, I thought I liked the punchier hit, but I'm about to switch back to the original zirc balls. I like the vape, but I'd really like to continue to try to dial it in, but I'm tired of wasting bowls on combustion too.

I can't even get it to light roast really- it's the dark roast top with light bottom or combustion. I try not to mention other vapes in this thread, but my only other butane experience is with the Anvil so I'm thinking part of the remaining thing to figure out is the heating (torch or Wand, the Wand lends to inconsistent roasts too!) and maybe my draw.

Again, I like the vape but no matter what I adjust, I'm getting the same experience that I find hard to dial in, which seems odd with some many fiddley options.
Have you tried moving the wand adapter?
 

BearFuur

Member
Hello everyone! I did a short video review on youtube. It is in Spanish, but maybe, with automatic subtitles or just with the images, it can help some people who don’t know how to disassemble the tempest or prefer a visual example instead reading the manual

That was an absolutely amazing detailed breakdown video!! Thank you very much for the very informative content! Again, that was incredibly well shot, thought out, and detailed. Cheers :):sherlock:
 

Musikchen

Member
Just quoted you to say that my cat is called "Muzieksken"
Nice im a cat person myself.
My two are called Moe and Coops.
I question how much difference the actual weed will make
I have some stronger strains that always want to switch to darker look.
But the tangie for example can archive even golden brown throughout the whole bowl easily.
Stuff behaves different in all vapes, but in this one its very noticeable.
 

General Disaster

A Total disMember
but I've yet to get a consistently roasted hit after playing with ALL of the variables.
ALL of them? I suspect not, just all the one's you've thought of?
Granted, this is with the boro balls, I thought I liked the punchier hit, but I'm about to switch back to the original zirc balls
Guessing (correct me if I'm wrong) but you've not had it long. There's a lot to play with on these things, maybe you should have persisted with the zirc's before changing your balls so soon? Different matrix material will change a lot of factors in it's using it
but I'm tired of wasting bowls on combustion too.
Sounds like you're putting too much heat into it? Tempest is usually pretty good at avoiding combustion.
I can't even get it to light roast really- it's the dark roast top with light bottom or combustion.
Yeah, definitely sounds like over heating. Along with airflow maybe, not a clear enough throughput of hot air.
I can't even get it to light roast really
Seriously? Every single attempt always roasts yer bud? It really does sound like you're over doing the heat.

Maybe call out some of your settings? What levels on the Ti are you going to? What wand settings? Running to time-out or solid-light? What 'pest settings you're running on for airflow? How you're drawing on it, and is it mtl or dtl. etc etc.
 

AndyO

Well-Known Member
How easy are others finding it to remove the ball retaining screen? I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my thread, it just won't go in without bending a "spoke" on it.
 
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