The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[BagaDiLhuga]

Guys, tried it for the first time, put the wand in 290 C and let it run until time over in the wand screen, and went to hit it, and it all went in one go. I spent the next minute coughing, and after half an hour my throat is still a mess. Now, im a daily joint smoker. Is this normal? Should i go for much lower temps? I put the direct tube, thinking this was the closest to a joint by what i read, but i sucked it all up in one hit like a bong hit. Head is fully opened, and stem was open but I closed it with finger until a second before stopping the toke, to let fresh air in. Teach me the way, for this is my first vape ever. I've only tried a friend's Mighty+ and was so lacking in punch

Ok forget it, I've put the helix tube, and lowered the temps to a initial 230 C, and the reheats at 210 C and no throat hurting, now we test. The flavor now was amazing, that first hit may have had something extra there, who knows, but now we getting there. Im falling in love, and saying goodbye to my old friend, the joint

 

[dudeguy]

So I tinkered with the adapter placement and ruined the sweet spot my adapter was set at (should have made a photo ). Now I get uneven roast yet still combusted when trying to go until timeout @290c.

To avoid further combustion events, is the visual indicator or the second click the more reliable measurement? Also the deeper the Tempest sits inside the Wand, the more conduction/heat it gets, right?

 

[RedZep]

Guys, tried it for the first time, put the wand in 290 C and let it run until time over in the wand screen, and went to hit it, and it all went in one go. I spent the next minute coughing, and after half an hour my throat is still a mess. Now, im a daily joint smoker. Is this normal? Should i go for much lower temps? I put the direct tube, thinking this was the closest to a joint by what i read, but i sucked it all up in one hit like a bong hit. Head is fully opened, and stem was open but I closed it with finger until a second before stopping the toke, to let fresh air in. Teach me the way, for this is my first vape ever. I've only tried a friend's Mighty+ and was so lacking in punch

Direct flow tube is not enough cooling to do one large direct to lung hit, unless it's set to half bowl. If you want to do one massive full bowl rip you will need to use the Helix flow tube.

 

[n0tu2]

You don't have to do 1 heats everytime if you don't want too. Been experimenting as well.. 290C must have been brutal native, lol. I think save these 1HE's for bubbler hits .. unless your an animal!

I noticed flavor is pretty much gone after first long pull if heated up to 3rd line and avb is really extra dark roast coffee brown bordering on black when finished.. for a medium brown I can get it in 2 heatups native.. first heatup to only right below the 2nd line or approx. the 1.75 guesstimate marker (maybe it clicks softly, maybe it doesn't..but it will click eventually while your drawing or wait a bit before the 1st draw so stored heat equalizes) got 3 or so flavorful hits.. then reheated to about 2nd line again... few hits and end up with a nice medium brown avb... I don't think I will be using 1HE method for native hits tho.. it's just too hot.. can you do it? sure.. but if not in a rush.....I probably won't. If you want golden brown avb go for even less heating time..

I do like it a lot.. it's much easier then dynas that's for sure to get many hits at your leisure after a heat up like puffing on a J.. mixing small MTL hits with long DTL is fine too.. still experimenting with it!

Edit: was using the torch with above so I could keep an eye on the VI moving..

 

[delta hotel]

Took the day off. Spent a few hours by the river hitting the Tempest. Today I had it in half bowl, Boro balls, Direct flow tube with SCU, tip airflow fully open, stem airflow closed. It was delicious and potent. Think i'll keep these settings for a little while as I'm really enjoying it.

https://imgur.com/a/nvjjuL6

Aes is my all time favorite!

 

[n3hemiah]

So I tinkered with the adapter placement and ruined the sweet spot my adapter was set at (should have made a photo ). Now I get uneven roast yet still combusted when trying to go until timeout @290c.

To avoid further combustion events, is the visual indicator or the second click the more reliable measurement? Also the deeper the Tempest sits inside the Wand, the more conduction/heat it gets, right?

the magnetic flux is highest at the middle of the coil, so deeper insertion generally means more heat

 

[Photonic]

Tried out my new Tempest today with great results. I set my Wand to 535f and went to timeout on the half bowl setting. I had the SCU installed to start out with maximum cooling before I begin experimenting. Flavor was good and started tasting slightly popcorny after third pull, so I stopped there. Interestingly enough, the ABV was much darker than I usually go but I didn't notice it in the flavor. Good sign!

Over time, I'll tweak my setup to find a sweet spot, but so far so good!

 

[RedZep]

Tried out my new Tempest today with great results. I set my Wand to 535f and went to timeout on the half bowl setting. I had the SCU installed to start out with maximum cooling before I begin experimenting. Flavor was good and started tasting slightly popcorny after third pull, so I stopped there. Interestingly enough, the ABV was much darker than I usually go but I didn't notice it in the flavor. Good sign!

Over time, I'll tweak my setup to find a sweet spot, but so far so good!

Yeah the Tempest gives good flavour even with darker roasts. Well in relative terms anyway.

 

[AndyO]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

 

[Octavia]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

Is the whole load combusting, or just the layer closest to the head? What balls are you using? What sort of draw speed?

If you’re fully combusting consistently with that wide of a temperature range, you probably have the adapter set incorrectly. I started mine in what I thought was the middle of the recommended range, but turned out to be the upper edge.

For me it was easiest to set the wand adapter so I could see the taper of the head (the bottom of the adapter was basically flush with the bottom of the wand), then inserted the tempest and gently pushed the adapter downward until I could barely read the visual indicator. Once I confirmed I didn’t combust, I moved the adapter down an additional mm to make the VI easier to read.

 

[sansei]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

Perhaps the wand adaptor is set too deep?

edit: yeah, what @Octavia said!

 

[SteamPunk]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

I set my wand to 320° Celcius till timeout and this setting gives me satisfactory results. Nice even Coffee brown roast, I prefer MTL style.
I have no idea how this could work at 230°C and something is telling me it depends on batteries (max capacity, lifespan etc) or there is a big difference between Wand models impacting heating efficiency.
Just a thought.

 

[Brenyo]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

Please check the note below the table. The temp 2 will combust if you leave it until timeout, use the wand temp 1 instead.

 

[HaggisHunter]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

Make sure the adapter is in the right place, follow the guides for wand temp 1 would be my advice.

All of those are basically impossible to combust from, from my own findings anyway...

If your chaining bowls, when reheating stop at the middle mark and see how it goes, if it's not roasted enough, I wouldn't bother heating it up again as you'll probably combust.
Just heat a little further on the scale for your next bowl.
Little steps at a time will see you get to a place where you barely need to think about how you use it.

 

[MislavKO]

I got a Wand to pair with the Tempest. I'm following the temperature advice in the manual.

I combust following their advice on "Wand temp 2" every single time. I turn it down 50 degrees Fahrenheit, I still combust.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the instructions just rubbish?

I think that the draw speed is a hudge factor. Doing a long and slow breath makes a hudge difference in vapour production and in how long the device stays hot. Try adjusting the draw speed and maybe play with the air intake on the head. Usualy combusting for me means that the head airflow is too open.

 

[General Disaster]

If your first assumption is going to be that I'm an idiot, I feel like you should've done that in private.

Well, until you said that I hadn't assumed it, but now...? You just turned a nothing into a something!

For what it's worth...

Heating technique makes a big difference, not just the time in the IH or the click or the Ti or the temp setting in the Wand (etc etc). It takes some time for the heat being applied to the SS sleeve (both torch and IH) to work it's way through the whole matrix and adjacent metal parts, and that will also depend on the thermal conductivity of the matrix material, so if you whip it out the Wand and use immediately on cut-off it'll behave different to leaving for 10/20 seconds then using (and other variations).
This becomes more obvious when doing a reheat while still warm - the indicator will not give the same reading etc. (you have to keep them a bit lower or risk a combust).
Positioning will also make a difference, heating the matrix further up or nearer the bowl (with attendant conduction into the bowl). Change of where heat is applied may require change in heat timing etc.

The type of weed, how it's been cured, the way it's shredded, how it's packed in the bowl and how much, will all make a difference too. I find for one draw DTL extractions, less is more - shred fairly fine (esp hard lumps) but pack light, max airflow.

Comments on draw speed and airflow settings - absolutely! Changes profile of heat transfer from matrix to bowl significantly. Even different techniques through the extraction - e.g. an initial very light slow draw to bring the bowl up to temp (similar effect to using conduction to pre-heat the bowl) then a deep long hard DTL can work quite well (depending on what you're after).

 

[.d]

Arrived an hour ago, did the initial clean in the ultrasonic and with q tips(didnt touch the balls though).
Among the most cleanest devices I ever received, found like 3 tiny pieces of metal shaving or something.

After about 20 minutes of "praying" while it was drying a bit I was ready and did the half bowl following the manual technique numero uno - 280C to time out on the wand.
Was a really fast heatup, I was surprised really.
I adopted my go-to revolve gen 1 settings with the direct tube and total bypass of air on the helix (perfect for direct to lung huge hits imo) and will go from here. I couldn't really do direct to lung in one go as the air was too hot for me - so I did it in like 5 small puffs and it was pretty easy - a really joint like feeling (but so much tastier), like there is a flame at the tip of your device - pretty unique from my experience.
I did 2 hits with the half bowl and above-mentioned procedure and both roasted perfectly and actually hit real real good. I am very satisfied from the pilot and much excited to keep on experimenting with this.
The super hot air really extracts a lot more from the herb than I would expect from a device of this form factor.

Also reload combo with this is so fast and convenient that I feel I could do this anywhere anytime all the time - if my brain could handle these hits

The looks and machining is top notch and I cant stop touching it and analyzing it then wiping of my dirty fingers of the device with a microfiber.
I am close to drooling really, like a dog, first time I wished for stronger tolerance.

I'm still recovering from the second bowl, but I believe my indicators work perfectly - clicks I ignored for now, saw that they need like 30 cycles to set in or smth.


TLDR; this thing slaps

 

[General Disaster]

I couldn't really do direct to lung in one go as the air was too hot for me

I'd use the helix tube for better cooling for DTL's myself. For me the vapour comes out almost cold! All that heat quickly builds up in the upper (head) end of the stem, which after a bowl can be almost little hot to hold near the bowl for a minute or so, but that's all heat that would have gone down yer gob otherwise.

 

[TankeyPankey]

I know this isn't the best device for big groups, but I'm going to show this off to a big group of friends soon. Currently setting my wand to 570 F and waiting til timeout gets me a perfect dark brown roast (visual indicator just below the 3rd line).

For reheats I've heard it said that the 2nd visual indicator line is preferred. I may test out heating once empty and then reheating to simulate this. Is that true for reheats 3, 4 and 5 as well? I know the device probably gets too hot at that point so may as well wait 10 minutes.

I'm curious to hear how many back to back bowls people have chained together and what their heating technique is.

 

[.d]

I'd use the helix tube for better cooling for DTL's myself. For me the vapour comes out almost cold! All that heat quickly builds up in the upper (head) end of the stem, which after a bowl can be almost little hot to hold near the bowl for a minute or so, but that's all heat that would have gone down yer gob otherwise.

Yea man, the options are wild, I want to try it all!

btw the wood stem fits on the revolve gen 1 so I'm think of getting another tempest head to have 2 devices with different balls, any reasons not to try it?

 

[MislavKO]

I know this isn't the best device for big groups, but I'm going to show this off to a big group of friends soon. Currently setting my wand to 570 F and waiting til timeout gets me a perfect dark brown roast (visual indicator just below the 3rd line).

For reheats I've heard it said that the 2nd visual indicator line is preferred. I may test out heating once empty and then reheating to simulate this. Is that true for reheats 3, 4 and 5 as well? I know the device probably gets too hot at that point so may as well wait 10 minutes.

I'm curious to hear how many back to back bowls people have chained together and what their heating technique is.

I don't really do back to back bowls, but when sharing I have one tip for you:
keep it in your hands
If you let it sit on the magnet or on the desk, the whole device will get wery hot, but if you keep it in your hands then you will suck all that excess heat from it and you can just keep going

 

[General Disaster]

Yea man, the options are wild, I want to try it all!

btw the wood stem fits on the revolve gen 1 so I'm think of getting another tempest head to have 2 devices with different balls, any reasons not to try it?

Well, I'm using a wood sleeve on my beta 'pest (march batch) which works a treat at insulating it, though slightly slows down the cool off of the stem/bowl after a hit.
I'm also running a wood sleeve on a Revolve 2 with a TA2 on the end, which packs even more heat than the 'pest, so assuming the Revolve 1 is same dimensions (pretty sure it is) I don't see why not.

 

[n0tu2]

I just like the fact that it isn't a such a mad rush after torching/IH to hit it like a dyna type.. Usually with my dynas immediately after heating I'm hitting it since those caps and tips lose the heat so quickly. With the tempest you can hold it for a little while after 1st heat/first hit.. bullshit with people.. take a hit.. more bullshitting.. take another hit lol.

The leather case is great.. if it's time to wrap up just drop it in the case when it's still very hot .. no problem..case can take the heat. might be warm in your pocket tho.. just drop it in a smell proof bag, lol.

Of course it's honeymoon phase.. once I'm feeling very confident it's mastered the other vapes will come back and he will find his place in the rotation.. been all tempest this week but about at the point to start rotating in the other jealous vapes

Was thinking about freezing or fridging the reload for a more rapid cool down between hits.. what say you; anyone try that?

 

[cybrguy]

Was thinking about freezing or fridging the reload for a more rapid cool down between hits.. what say you; anyone try that?

I suppose it's possible that you might crack your magnet...

 

[Musikchen]

Was thinking about freezing or fridging the reload for a more rapid cool down between hits.. what say you; anyone try that?

Huh? Rapid cooldown? Why cool it down?! Just top off the heat looking at the VI when you feel its not producing enough vapor anymore.