The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

G

GnarlyVandal

Well-Known Member
So guys I’ve been playing with balls quite a lot.

1/3 SS and 2/3 zirc had great extraction for good length of time, but was a little harsh on the throat.

Right now I’ve only done 2 bowls with 1/3 zirc and 2/3 boro but it’s so goooooood. Smooth and punchy 😁 290 til timeout

Gonna need to order some damn SiC. Can anyone share insight how they compare to the zirc / boro?
 
.d

.d

Well-Known Member
GnarlyVandal said:
So guys I’ve been playing with balls quite a lot.

1/3 SS and 2/3 zirc had great extraction for good length of time, but was a little harsh on the throat.

Right now I’ve only done 2 bowls with 1/3 zirc and 2/3 boro but it’s so goooooood. Smooth and punchy 😁 290 til timeout

Gonna need to order some damn SiC. Can anyone share insight how they compare to the zirc / boro?
Click to expand...
Can it not be potentially problematic with mixing balls? Are they all so heat resistant that there is no danger that one melts the other?
They will never reach the temperatures necessary for this or?
 
.d,
G

GnarlyVandal

Well-Known Member
.d said:
Can it not be potentially problematic with mixing balls? Are they all so heat resistant that there is no danger that one melts the other?
They will never reach the temperatures necessary for this or?
Click to expand...
I thought boro was safe up to about 500 Celsius?
 
GnarlyVandal,
.d

.d

Well-Known Member
GnarlyVandal said:
I thought boro was safe up to about 500 Celsius?
Click to expand...
I'm just asking, this will be my first ball experience ever so I'm just gathering info. I like to master all my vapes and in this case that means ball swapping for sure. (im starting to love how that sounds kinda dirty - ball swapping. like "i recently ball swapped with jimmy and it wrecked me" )

EDIT: I think we dont have to worry about melting, not sure yet, will keep on researching sometime
disclaimer: not reliable scientific info, its just gptbro
  • Silicon Carbide (SiC) (2.5mm):
    • Melting Point: ~2,830°C (5,126°F) (though SiC decomposes before reaching its melting point under normal atmospheric conditions).
  • Zirconia (Zirconium Dioxide, ZrO₂) (2.5mm and 3.0mm):
    • Melting Point: ~2,715°C (4,919°F).
  • Stainless Steel (2.5mm and 3.0mm):
    • Melting Point: ~1,375–1,530°C (2,507–2,786°F) (depending on the specific alloy of stainless steel).
  • Borosilicate Glass (2.5mm):
    • Softening Point: ~821°C (1,510°F).
    • True Melting Point: ~1,650°C (3,002°F).
The Ispire Wand can heat up to a maximum temperature of 800°F (427°C), which is ideal for vaporizing concentrates and oils. While this temperature is specifically for the Wand's intended use (heating concentrates), it may not be suitable for metals that require much higher temperatures for applications like melting or shaping.

To clarify:
  • 800°F (427°C)is effective for:
    • Glass and Quartz: These materials, which are commonly used in dab setups, can be heated up to this temperature without damage.
However, if you're asking about heating actual metals with the Ispire Wand, it’s important to note that metals generally require much higher temperatures to be manipulated. For instance:
  • Aluminum melts at 1,221°F (660°C).
  • Steel melts at temperatures around 2,500°F (1,370°C).
  • Copper melts at 1,984°F (1,085°C).
The Ispire Wand is not designed for heating metals to such high levels, as it is optimized for controlled, low-temperature applications like vaporizing concentrates.
 
Last edited:
N

n0tu2

Well-Known Member
I'd say they probably won't ever melt on you unless the ball has some kinda flaw.. some good personal torches can put out 1538C/2800F but your spinning and far away from the blue inner flames so heat doesn't build in one area.. Maybe torching the balls with a huge MAP torch in a strainer might do it .. the boro at least. Most run of the mill small cheap personal single torches can only maybe reach 815/926C/ 1500-1700F and it's not sustained torch would get too hot to hold eventually
 
n0tu2,
D

dtrdrk

Well-Known Member
Is it just me, or does the video manual of the beta upgrade have wrong description?

4. Move the pointer to the starting position. But in the video he puts it in the end position (third notch on the indicator). Not start 🤷‍
 
N

n3hemiah

Active Member
Hi all! Hoping to get a bit of help with my Tempest use.
I'll try to keep it quick.

Settings:
- Zirc 2.5mm
- Wand
- 290C/550F to timeout
- Cap airflow about 25% open
- Stem airflow open
- Medium pack (spongy and compressible with fingertip)
- DTL inhale with a mouth "drag". Rolling between fingers to "carb." Eventual goal is to extract using only the breath, without using fingers (I mastered this with dyna/revolve, but it's a new device so I am allowing some leeway here).

Problems:
- I run out of heat after 3 good-ish hits
- if I pack the bowl any tighter, I get barely anything at all
- I have to drag pretty long/aggressively to get anything after the first couple hits

What I've tried:
- reheating: this works really well. I'll get deep extraction with good clouds. (there's always a combustion risk, though)
- very light bowls - this works well, but it leaves me wanting a bit more; I will have to repack and reheat
- opening cap airflow - this seems to drain the heat more quickly and leads to harsher hits, but I don't get a payoff in vapor production
- closing stem airflow - this works to some degree for MTL, but I prefer a DTL technique

In summary it feels like I'm extracting about 1/3 on the first heat cycle and 2/3 on the reheat. So I'm having to either reheat or pack very light.

Is this consistent with others' experience? Any advice?
 
Brenyo

Brenyo

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
dtrdrk said:
Is it just me, or does the video manual of the beta upgrade have wrong description?

4. Move the pointer to the starting position. But in the video he puts it in the end position (third notch on the indicator). Not start 🤷
Click to expand...
Yes, sorry, I've added the 4th step after making the video :doh: It's easier if you rotate it to the starting position.

n3hemiah said:
Is this consistent with others' experience? Any advice?
Click to expand...
Push the adapter 2mm deeper.

If it’s still not quite there, try adjusting it to 320°C or a little higher, and wait until the VI starts moving back before taking a draw.

You should be able to extract at least 2/3, if not all, on the first heat-up.
 
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
@n3hemiah I just tried your settings and found your description accurate. I noticed that I only got a first click at 550F. I have my wand set to 680F with fresh batteries and up to 710F when the cells are a bit more drained. I do not go to timeout - only to solid light and I usually get a second loud click almost in sync with the light. My stem airflow is closed and I've got the tip airflow open only enough to support a tight DTL pull which usually ends up being a combo of MTL and DTL thought the bowl. If you haven't already, try raising the temp on the wand (maybe 40F increments). If you've already tried that then I'm not sure what to recommend but it seems like the heat battery is not being filled enough.
 
S

snirgol

Well-Known Member
n0tu2 said:
I'd say they probably won't ever melt on you unless the ball has some kinda flaw.. some good personal torches can put out 1538C/2800F but your spinning and far away from the blue inner flames so heat doesn't build in one area.. Maybe torching the balls with a huge MAP torch in a strainer might do it .. the boro at least. Most run of the mill small cheap personal single torches can only maybe reach 815/926C/ 1500-1700F and it's not sustained torch would get too hot to hold eventually
Click to expand...
Big flame into a strainer can and will make zirc explode and I'm saying that from personal experience unfortunately 🤣
 
B

BagaDiLhuga

Member
Hey guys, just got my Tempest, in love with the looks, but the try outs are tomorrow. For now i've done the deep clean process. Just want to ask something: in the manual, it says to wash the head in a cleaning solution, and then rinse. But I saw others say they put it in iso for a few minutes, then clean with hot water. I did that one, cleaned any liquid after except in the head where the balls and all the indicator stuff are. Then waited an hour, then did a dry run to dry the insides of the head, in the wand with max temp.
Heard a lot if sizzling inside, is it normal? Like, i was expecting a bit, but it was a lot. Just wanted to check i didn't f** up
 
Octavia

Octavia

No thoughts, head empty
BagaDiLhuga said:
Heard a lot if sizzling inside, is it normal? Like, i was expecting a bit, but it was a lot. Just wanted to check i didn't f** up
Click to expand...
Seems normal to me, just boiling the liquid off. I usually soak mine in iso, shake out, rinse in water, shake again then put into the wand to boil the excess off. Probably should let it dry a little longer on my end 😅
 
N

n3hemiah

Active Member
BagaDiLhuga said:
Hey guys, just got my Tempest, in love with the looks, but the try outs are tomorrow. For now i've done the deep clean process. Just want to ask something: in the manual, it says to wash the head in a cleaning solution, and then rinse. But I saw others say they put it in iso for a few minutes, then clean with hot water. I did that one, cleaned any liquid after except in the head where the balls and all the indicator stuff are. Then waited an hour, then did a dry run to dry the insides of the head, in the wand with max temp.
Heard a lot if sizzling inside, is it normal? Like, i was expecting a bit, but it was a lot. Just wanted to check i didn't f** up
Click to expand...
I had quite a bit of sizzling, I wouldn't sweat it
 
vapefritz

vapefritz

Well-Known Member
Should have pulled the trigger yesterday when the titanium + ebony version was still available on vaporizerhut, now it's sold out too... Probably out of luck for now but if a titanium + wood kit gets sold somewhere (preferably in Germany/EU) let me know!
 
vapefritz,
kokolokokolokon

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
rotra said:
Are the replacement balls boro sic balls? How many of them are to be put in? Lost some of the original balls.
Click to expand...
The extra ones with the full tempest kit are boro (not sic, the sic ones are black). you can use a few of them to replace the lost zirc balls but they have a different heating profile. Being just a small number they won´t impact in the use, but i would recommend you to buy more zirc balls (or try to use full boro! big punch, faster extraction, faster heat up and cool down)
 
vapefritz

vapefritz

Well-Known Member
spike71 said:
shop.vivasativa.at

Mad Heater´s 'the TEMPEST' Wood Kit black ebony

this is the Tempest Wood Kit complete (Filling Chamber, Cap, Cooling Unit in one Color) with your favourite Color Woodstem available Primary Colors: t
shop.vivasativa.at shop.vivasativa.at
Click to expand...
Seems like they only have the black version in the wood kit. I can not select titanium as primary color with it. But it says I could ask for other combinations, will give it a try, thanks! 🙂

Edit: seems like the "revolve cooling unit" (the mouth piece with spiral attached) is not available in titanium either. I'll just have to be patient.
 
Last edited:
vapefritz,
B

BagaDiLhuga

Member
Guys, tried it for the first time, put the wand in 290 C and let it run until time over in the wand screen, and went to hit it, and it all went in one go. I spent the next minute coughing, and after half an hour my throat is still a mess. Now, im a daily joint smoker. Is this normal? Should i go for much lower temps? I put the direct tube, thinking this was the closest to a joint by what i read, but i sucked it all up in one hit like a bong hit. Head is fully opened, and stem was open but I closed it with finger until a second before stopping the toke, to let fresh air in. Teach me the way, for this is my first vape ever. I've only tried a friend's Mighty+ and was so lacking in punch
 
BagaDiLhuga,
  • Haha
Reactions: simba
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom