The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[Musikchen]

Should i try to bend it like someone suggested a few pages back or leave it like this?

If you are sure everything is installed correct and the spring is happy.
Before trying to adjust the bend,
First step would be to disassemble and polish the slot the VI runs in and maybe the edges of the VI ends too.
Could be a little burr or too gritty slot overall.

 

[MislavKO]

If you are sure everything is installed correct and the spring is happy.
Before trying to adjust the bend,
First step would be to disassemble and polish the slot the VI runs in and maybe the edges of the VI ends too.
Could be a little burr or too gritty slot overall.

Ok thanks, might give it a try today.
Also, is there any procedure to make the induction sleve look like new (or just better)? It is pretty dark after using a torch

 

[TedJones]

Why does my heat shield get hot when I’m using a torch? I thought the stem isn’t really supposed to get hot

Not enough hot air getting through your herb. The heat then escapes onto your stem and shield. Still get that myself once in awhile. You can open the cap airflow slightly and/or a lighter pack bowl helps.

 

[Musikchen]

Also, is there any procedure to make the induction sleve look like new (or just better)? It is pretty dark after using a torch

I used something like 4000grit micromesh paper and some even finer 8000grit.
Should easily clean up with any polish compound on a cotton cloth too.
Its good to have everything disassembled to clean it afterwards.

 

[VapingYogi]

One, I don't have 2 orings on the mouthpiece, I only have 1, I'm gonna check to see if it's loose in one of the other parts of the vape. Otherwise, is it a big deal to be missing one of those? (gonna have to check if bag of goodies it came with has orings)

Are you talking about the Airflow tube inside the mouthpeice? if that is what you are referring to it has one o-ring that you change the location of in order to change its function.

 

[MislavKO]

I used something like 4000grit micromesh paper and some even finer 8000grit.
Should easily clean up with any polish compound on a cotton cloth too.
Its good to have everything disassembled to clean it afterwards.

I don't think that would help in my case because when i heated it now for 10 sec after the second click, my visual indicator was obetween 2.nd and 3rd notch. Then right after heating it, I tried to push it to the 3rd notch, and it just springed right back to the same place. To me this seems like i should try to bend it a little since it has nothing to hold on to (seems clean to me)

 

[mike butta]

Are you talking about the Airflow tube inside the mouthpeice? if that is what you are referring to it has one o-ring that you change the location of in order to change its function.

Yes it comes with one that you can move to lock the mouthpiece, but if you want to install the cooling unit and have the mouthpiece locked you add an o-ring I believe. So that's how you end up with 2.

 

[Musikchen]

To me this seems like i should try to bend it

If you bend it be carefull to just bring it in a tiny bit(red) without bending any off the loops etc.
The bend should only happen in this corner(green)

https://imgur.com/a/dz0hgDJ

 

[MislavKO]

If you bend it be carefull to just bring it in a tiny bit(red) without bending any off the loops etc.
The bend should only happen in this corner(green)

https://imgur.com/a/dz0hgDJ

Thanks, I'll give it a try

No luck, maybe I was to gentle on my bends but after reassemble it works exactly the same... seemd a bit scary at first but it was pretty easy. I don't have the tool from mad heaters so i used some tweezers that are used for nicotine vapes with ceramic tips

 

[sriyantra7]

Not enough hot air getting through your herb. The heat then escapes onto your stem and shield. Still get that myself once in awhile. You can open the cap airflow slightly and/or a lighter pack bowl helps.

Ok thanks I will try, my cap airflow is at like a quarter open

 

[n0tu2]

No luck, maybe I was to gentle on my bends but after reassemble it works exactly the same... seemd a bit scary at first but it was pretty easy. I don't have the tool from mad heaters so i used some tweezers that are used for nicotine vapes with ceramic tips

i recall brenyo making a change to the VI rebuild instructions to make sure the VI pointer is pointing all the way closed position/coolest setting before installing the spring to it.. worth just a double check.. may just be a bum VI coil then? haven't opened mine yet to check this area out.. it seems to be workin'

in regards to other post torching the cap.. after first practice torch run w.empty bowl the beautiful golden induction only run sleeve is now all speckled and dotted like a disease LOL.. torched caps will never look like new imo.. just have to accept it

 

[Brenyo]

@Brenyo I think some of your conversions C to F are wrong in the manual.. 280C is not exactly 525F.. 290C is not exactly 550F ..unless my math is wrong I went with the F side and adjusted the C in my experience post above

Yes I know, but when you switch rom C to F on the device those are the conversions and matching timers.

My only concern is the visual indicator. It only goes up to 2.nd notch. Maybe to 2 and a half, no mater how mutch i heat it (scared to keep going after a while). But it is consistent and easy to read when reheating. I opened it up and checked how it is installed and it looks like it is installed properly.
Should i try to bend it like someone suggested a few pages back or leave it like this? Maybe it should improve with time?
Other than that everything is great. My click discs are perfectly calibrated for my triple torch

Bending the middle end should help, but I don’t recommend it since it doesn’t make much of a difference other than shifting the end point. It won’t make it more “precise.”

The current spring has an upper temperature limit, which causes it to move slower near the end and eventually stop. I’m working on another version that won’t slow down, allowing for better precision, but at the moment it’s a bit too fast near the end. I hope I can figure it out in a couple months, along with new clicks that will click back within 1 min.

 

[BushRanger]

torched caps will never look like new imo.. just have to accept it

I'm reposting my old post, to let you know you can polish the bad looking torched head and make it look like new.

After & Before

https://imgur.com/a/8S8SkUm

Polish paste, toothbrush and some time is what you'll need.

 

[n0tu2]

Yes I know, but when you switch rom C to F on the device those are the conversions and matching timers.

So the wand timers have some bugs? I know it's not exact science and perfect temps ..but still they could of made an effort to make 274C be 525F when using it for what it was made to do .. dabbing lol..

I'm reposting my old post, to let you know you can polish the bad looking torched head and make it look like new.

After & Before

https://imgur.com/a/8S8SkUm

I stand corrected!

 

[MislavKO]

Yes I know, but when you switch rom C to F on the device those are the conversions and matching timers.



Bending the middle end should help, but I don’t recommend it since it doesn’t make much of a difference other than shifting the end point. It won’t make it more “precise.”

The current spring has an upper temperature limit, which causes it to move slower near the end and eventually stop. I’m working on another version that won’t slow down, allowing for better precision, but at the moment it’s a bit too fast near the end. I hope I can figure it out in a couple months, along with new clicks that will click back within 1 min.

So buyng a new spring wouldn't fix it?

 

[Brenyo]

So buyng a new spring wouldn't fix it?

If it’s in good shape, then it won’t make a difference. They’re all exactly the same length; the only slight difference is the angle of the middle end in relation to the outer end.

 

[anome]

And to think, all of this wand temperature drama could have been avoided by just making the display what it basically is... a count down timer.

 

[eyevape]

And to think, all of this wand temperature drama could have been avoided by just making the display what it basically is... a count down timer.

Exactly. That’s why I’ve set the temp to max and listen for the clicks only.

 

[MislavKO]

If it’s in good shape, then it won’t make a difference. They’re all exactly the same length; the only slight difference is the angle of the middle end in relation to the outer end.

Ok ill try it again.

I'm reposting my old post, to let you know you can polish the bad looking torched head and make it look like new.

After & Before

https://imgur.com/a/8S8SkUm

Polish paste, toothbrush and some time is what you'll need.

That looks beautiful

 

[T@çh€]

I love my tempest

 

[Datoneguy]

No. The extra ring keeps the MP from spinning while assembled.

I really don't anymore. Just did a couple of heat ups without herb for both heads initially. But have soaked by beta cap in iso a handful of times. A few specs of abv came out while doing this, that's it. No iso discoloration from resin or anything so personally don't think it's worth it. Some like sugar soap. An air purifier comes in handy to dry it. Shake it a few times and it'll dry quick.

Okay thanks! Good to know.
I also saw someone mention moving it to the other position to adjust airflow or something along those lines. I'll have to mess around with that. I thought it was 2 orings because the video shared had 2 orings on the piece inside of the mouthpiece, but good to know it's more if you want to stop the mp from spinning (I am questioning if the spinning will bother me or not though, so good to know I can adjust that if I want to)
EDIT: watching the video again to reassemble. You explicitly mention it stops the mouthpeice from spinning. My bad lol. I was not paying attention to the audio as much as the visuals at the time.

Alright screw it, I'm gonna just not clean the cap/head for the time being and i'll save it the cap for a deeper clean or something, i'll do a couple burnoffs and just go for it. It almost sounds like it might be worth not cleaning as often as the rest and then just cleaning it while also cleaning the ceramic balls within the cap. But it sounds like a short iso soak and then rinsing with water and letting it dry might be an acceptable thing to do too. Sounds like it didn't cause damage to your beta unit which is great.
I don't have anything fancy for drying though, so idk if that would maybe change the equation a bit.

I'll report back on the vape probably in a couple weeks lmao. I started a tbreak a few days before my tempest arrived lol, my timing isn't the greatest because the Tempest is gonna be tempting me the whole time lol. Really wanna get an accurate feel for the vape though without a high tolerance.

 

[f8-andbethere]

Has anyone else had any trouble with shipping? Specifically to new zealand.

My tempest was meant to be delivered today and I finally got a notification saying it has arrived in the country only for it to be followed by a second notification saying 'The parcel is being returned'.

Pretty worried as i cant seem to get hold of the courier (dpd UK). Its taken about a month to get here already so it would be great to not have to go through that again.

Update: A couple of hours later I got an email from DPD saying that it was out for delivery... I check my letterbox and there it is. Turns out @Musikchen is correct and its just standard DPD chaos. Now... to learn how to use this tempest thing!

 

[rotra]

Are the replacement balls boro sic balls? How many of them are to be put in? Lost some of the original balls.

 

[Musikchen]

Followed by a second notification saying 'The parcel is being returned'.

My fist package said its cant be deliverd and is going back from the first day on.
Has been delivered just fine.
Its standard DPD chaos.