The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
The new induction sleeves tend to get a slightly yellow or orange cast to them but seem to stay very consistent, with no marks like the heating marks we had on the original ones. This one has not been used with a torch, but is very consistent colored.Yeah , i wanted this combo about a year ago when Brenyo put a photo of one up, I preferred the wood on my ti beta version too.
Believe it or not im looking forward to the wand darkening the cap up a bit , I think it will look even better then
Thinking that may have seen a torch. This definitely has not...
And I wanted to add that I have not noticed the fingerprint effect on the new induction sleeves. I have not been careful about it.
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Shorner
Well-Known Member
Looks great, I'm trying not to touch mine this time too as I know that can make them look a bit shitty sometimes, and there's no way im torching it!The new induction sleeves tend to get a slightly yellow or orange cast to them but seem to stay very consistent, with no marks like the heating marks we had on the original ones. This one has not been used with a torch, but is very consistent colored.
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Cannabiker
Well-Known Member
I originally ordered a ti/rosewood, but when Brenyo requested that we switch to black if possible, I changed to the black/rosewood. I'm really glad I did. I didn't see it until I got it in hand, but it echoes the aesthetics of the classic briar pipes with their black stems. My grandfather always smoked one of those, and I got a pleasant wave of nostalgia when I noted the resemblance. Then I got really blazed. I've also got a ti head and mouthpiece, so I can always go ti, with a note of black for the control dial if I want.My Black body /Rosewood stem has arrived!
Thanks to @Brenyo for the Saturday DPD delivery
Look forward to trying it later
Testersinc
New Member
I just got my tempest yesterday and its definitely a beast
easy to follow instruction. TY all Madheaters guys for shipping it out quickly and answering my questions.
Full bowl is too big for me at the moment and not getting consistent AVB color all round. top herb is darker than bottom ones when on Full bowl so i have it on half for now. I definitely needed more time to know the device. Also using 3mm Zirc atm
I havent combusted yet but almost close(dark avb). I find its easy to do a very quick extraction session but how do make it run like a low temp session? I tried to play with wand depth glass insert but i still can't find a consistent technique yet to make it run like a low temp cap. it usually finishes the bowl pretty fast like hitting dynavap with fmj. What range in indicator i should aim at? Now im using more herb atm since im trying to learn the device haha.. I think i need a tbreak though. I hate being in the plateau(high tolerance guys know what i mean)
On my Dynavap I like Helix and simrell low temp cap combination to extend the session. I want to make it run similar to this if possible.
I ordered all the balls and willing to try things out. Any tempest experts out there that can give me tips?
I just learned about the tempest about 2 months ago and visual indicator is definitely helpful. Haha now i have to use Wand updside down to see it but its OK since I have a tripod. Also is there a temp range guide for visual indicator marking in tempest somewhere? Like what temp range does each marking refer to.
I just try to stay close/below the third line then hit it
Also just curious on full battery how many cycles(average) on wand/tempest you normally get?
when im at home i usually use the default battery that the wand came with and charge it when its half way.
When i go out thats when i use the Molicel P28. I use my batteries this way so i can prolong my Molicels since i barely go out haha.
Im thinking of getting a 2nd wand but not sure if any new IH thats compatible with tempest will come out soon. Not sure yet about BFG Flare or the inductor
Here is my Tempest/Wand/Dynavap station
Using Superclamp 1/4 - 3/8 threads to hold the wand.
It has some Hard drive/strong 3/8 / amazon keychain magnets. I use 2 black amazon keychain magnet to cool and twist/remove the hot cap. Yes Im able to debowl/decap one hand when its attached to my tripod.
I got the Reload too when i cant take the tripod with me.
Time for some photoshoot
easy to follow instruction. TY all Madheaters guys for shipping it out quickly and answering my questions.Full bowl is too big for me at the moment and not getting consistent AVB color all round. top herb is darker than bottom ones when on Full bowl so i have it on half for now. I definitely needed more time to know the device. Also using 3mm Zirc atm
I havent combusted yet but almost close(dark avb). I find its easy to do a very quick extraction session but how do make it run like a low temp session? I tried to play with wand depth glass insert but i still can't find a consistent technique yet to make it run like a low temp cap. it usually finishes the bowl pretty fast like hitting dynavap with fmj. What range in indicator i should aim at? Now im using more herb atm since im trying to learn the device haha.. I think i need a tbreak though. I hate being in the plateau(high tolerance guys know what i mean)
On my Dynavap I like Helix and simrell low temp cap combination to extend the session. I want to make it run similar to this if possible.
I ordered all the balls and willing to try things out. Any tempest experts out there that can give me tips?
I just learned about the tempest about 2 months ago and visual indicator is definitely helpful. Haha now i have to use Wand updside down to see it but its OK since I have a tripod. Also is there a temp range guide for visual indicator marking in tempest somewhere? Like what temp range does each marking refer to.
I just try to stay close/below the third line then hit it
Also just curious on full battery how many cycles(average) on wand/tempest you normally get?
when im at home i usually use the default battery that the wand came with and charge it when its half way.
When i go out thats when i use the Molicel P28. I use my batteries this way so i can prolong my Molicels since i barely go out haha.
Im thinking of getting a 2nd wand but not sure if any new IH thats compatible with tempest will come out soon. Not sure yet about BFG Flare or the inductor
Here is my Tempest/Wand/Dynavap station
Using Superclamp 1/4 - 3/8 threads to hold the wand.
It has some Hard drive/strong 3/8 / amazon keychain magnets. I use 2 black amazon keychain magnet to cool and twist/remove the hot cap. Yes Im able to debowl/decap one hand when its attached to my tripod.
I got the Reload too when i cant take the tripod with me.
Time for some photoshoot
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Madao
Member
Has anyone spent extensive time with all the ball options? is there a writeup or comparison someone can point me to? I have been running exlusively with SiC, but i bought a ugprade kit so i can run a second one, just unsure of what balltype to run in it, thinking of a mixture of the two sizes of zirc together? has anhyone tried going multiple sizes of the same ball, does that change the experience? curious as to what everyone has settled on as favorite setups
tots
Member
Very nice with just 0,1!!!
Minsc_NBoo
Active Member
I've been using both the wand, and a triple flame torch.
I don't think torching has changed the colour of the cap. I'm doing my best to not touch the bare metal, and so far there is very little discolouration so I think fingerprints are the culprit rather than the flame
Shorner
Well-Known Member
I have put just over a gram through it since yesterday and a lovely patena starting to come along, should blend in with the Rosewood lovely
I am really happy with it, I'm using it the same as my old pre release with the wand, adapter stuck out about 1mm..320c on the wand until timeout..I get the click right at the timeout and VI is bang on 3rd notch...massive cloud and dark roast 1 HE no problem same as beta...its great.
I am really happy with it, I'm using it the same as my old pre release with the wand, adapter stuck out about 1mm..320c on the wand until timeout..I get the click right at the timeout and VI is bang on 3rd notch...massive cloud and dark roast 1 HE no problem same as beta...its great.
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BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Mndeadhead
Well-Known Member
For those of you using or attempting to use the inductor with this, after a purple of weeks of playing with it, i have settled down at 21. I’m pulsing the inductor for 2-3 seconds, and spinning the tempest. I find that anything higher would end up charring the top of every bowl. With this I am coffee brown at the end, I get the same results whether using natively or through my haze pipe.
I was running at 28 for a while, but the inductor delivers so much power to the bowl and the balls that the temp just keeps rising and I just found that the bowl got so harsh and hot at the end. This still delivers punch hits, without an espresso shot in the bowl after.
What’s working for everyone else?
I was running at 28 for a while, but the inductor delivers so much power to the bowl and the balls that the temp just keeps rising and I just found that the bowl got so harsh and hot at the end. This still delivers punch hits, without an espresso shot in the bowl after.
What’s working for everyone else?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
stonedBBer
Well-Known Member
We need a thread dedicated to induction heater setting and time with the various devices. It comes up so often
Shorner
Well-Known Member
@BushRanger Did you have a fishing rod out too mate?
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
Not today, but we did cook some parasol shrooms on the side
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
When you're using your tempest at the river or in a camping spot, do you ever use the fire embers to heat it, or do you just use a torch or IH you brought along? It's certainly enough heat, but it could carbon ugly your head and be a little hot on your hands.
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
lol, maybe in case of apocalypse.
Testersinc
New Member
Loving it so far. Lots of testing(bowls) to get to know the device so i can get the technique down.
I just realized i can heat my tempest with wand in the bong with tripod without taking it off lol. Haha nice way to heat/hold heat in. From cold start. after 10-15 or more i inhale slowly consistent draw(to heat the balls)>i see some weak vapor in bong> keep inhaling until i see right amount/density /vapor then i stop the heating. I find i dont have to heat soak the device running this way haha. If i need to reheat i watch for vapor in bong again and stop the wand. I have to be careful though to not oveheat/combust.
So this brings the question. With this setup. Lets say for example i set the wand to 475 then let it timeout(solid yellow). Will the cap continue heating if wand is solid yellow or? Im aware that wand temp screen is only sync on the bowl of wand itself. Anyone know? I can just imagine a future IH That can detect temperature of a cap
Edit i just tried it right now lol. Cap still heats up when on steady yellow in wand
I just realized i can heat my tempest with wand in the bong with tripod without taking it off lol. Haha nice way to heat/hold heat in. From cold start. after 10-15 or more i inhale slowly consistent draw(to heat the balls)>i see some weak vapor in bong> keep inhaling until i see right amount/density /vapor then i stop the heating. I find i dont have to heat soak the device running this way haha. If i need to reheat i watch for vapor in bong again and stop the wand. I have to be careful though to not oveheat/combust.
So this brings the question. With this setup. Lets say for example i set the wand to 475 then let it timeout(solid yellow). Will the cap continue heating if wand is solid yellow or? Im aware that wand temp screen is only sync on the bowl of wand itself. Anyone know? I can just imagine a future IH That can detect temperature of a cap
Edit i just tried it right now lol. Cap still heats up when on steady yellow in wand
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cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
Unfortunately, the readout on the screen of the wand is really a timer rather than a temperature sensor. A temperature sensor of some kind would be an improvement, but it would also probably significantly increase the price. The way you're using it, the temperature sensor is really not necessary because you are responding to the actual production of vapor as your cue to remove the heat. I do this a lot for my reheats on glass, and it works very well. I don't have any kind of support for it, and I really don't like all that weight pulling awkwardly on my glass, so I tend to hold the wand in my hand when doing this. I can deal.
Testersinc
New Member
Yes thats right 'temperature sensor'for cap to auto trigger heating in future IH. Yes i have to be extra careful moving the wand/bong with this setup. Ty for your input
I just tried it right now set wand to 400. Then let it timeout/solid yellow. VI is still rising>inhale. I almost forgot to turn off wand lol almost combusted.
So definitely lots of ways/cues i have to get familiar with
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I'm running such an unorthodox ball set up today I'm not sure if I should even post this replyHas anyone spent extensive time with all the ball options? is there a writeup or comparison someone can point me to? I have been running exlusively with SiC, but i bought a ugprade kit so i can run a second one, just unsure of what balltype to run in it, thinking of a mixture of the two sizes of zirc together? has anhyone tried going multiple sizes of the same ball, does that change the experience? curious as to what everyone has settled on as favorite setups
. I didn't think it would work but tried it anyway. I had an expensive 8mm terp pearl sitting doing nothing in my drawer ever since I broke the banger i used to pair it with, since then I've never found a banger that it spins in. Anyway it's something called diamondium lite.I put some 2.5mm gem cut rubies in first, just enough to cover the bottom. Then put the 8mm ball in and filled the gaps with more gem cuts, so the 8mm ball was half covered by gem cuts. Then I filled the rest with 2.5mm zirc balls. Then I adjusted the airflow so it felt roughly the same when loaded as before.
I don't think it tastes any better or worse but the feel of the vapor is very different.
It's got that fluffy smooth feeling now. Before I was finding the vapor very slightly hot and irritating and now I don't, hard to say if it's caused more by the difference in the way air flows through the head or if it's more the material the 8mm ball is made from that's causing such a big change in how the vapor feels. I'm also able to and have to run it a little hotter 580 compared to 550. I was combusting above 550 before. So maybe it's just under performance but the vapor density and quality doesn't seem to be less than before, it's just smoother.
I'm also using my basket screen in the half bowl position. Not sure if it makes any difference it just convenient but maybe it adds a little conduction
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.d
Wubba Lubba dub-dub
Just did my first ball exchange, zirc to boro. It was a 15 minute challenge for me. Hardest part was handling and counting the balls, then tightening the ball retaining screen - was scared the whole time that I will break something.
My second tempest head arrived and I put a titanium ebony wood combo with my Revolve gen 1 - works perfectly. This head had bigger O rings than my first so the fit is tigher with the wood - win.
Now running 2 tempests side by side and comparing zirconia vs borosilicate with the same settings and config first.
Hoping that this comparison will give me more insight into which balls I should aim for.
btw black tempest with black (sic) balls sounds awesome yummy
My second tempest head arrived and I put a titanium ebony wood combo with my Revolve gen 1 - works perfectly. This head had bigger O rings than my first so the fit is tigher with the wood - win.
Now running 2 tempests side by side and comparing zirconia vs borosilicate with the same settings and config first.
Hoping that this comparison will give me more insight into which balls I should aim for.
btw black tempest with black (sic) balls sounds awesome yummy
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Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
Speaking of balls.
Am I the only one who replaces zirc balls if they don't come out nice and white after an ISO soak and then burn off. If a ball doesn't come out clean first time I try 2 more times (3 total) to soak & burn and if it doesn't come out white replace it.
Am I the only one who replaces zirc balls if they don't come out nice and white after an ISO soak and then burn off. If a ball doesn't come out clean first time I try 2 more times (3 total) to soak & burn and if it doesn't come out white replace it.
Shorner
Well-Known Member
Probably