TedJones
Well-Known Member
Yea, awkward hold for the camera. I don’t think spin speed matters too much. Some just rotate it slowly back & forth with good results. I naturally spin a little fast I guess.
The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
delta hotel
Well-Known Member
Pulling the flame away did the trick. My only experience with a butane vape prior to this was an entirely different experience so I had to adjust my technique some. I'm able to use the VI much more reliably too since it's not over heating it by so much, I assume too fast. It's still not an entirely consistent roast through, but I don't think I'm really leaving anything either and I may need to just continue to adjust variables. I can heat it with a torch now, I'm happy.
Damn dude I'm really liking that color combo more and more. I got the same one!! Originally black but had to change but, damn I can't flippin wait!
grognard3r
Well-Known Member
Close of the very tip air intake slots. The more closed you set the air intake, the more uniform your roast (in my experience of using the Tempest since Dec 2023).
BB9s are fantastic with the Tempest head. The glass is thick enough to keep things relatively cool.
Cleaning my BB 9s are less labor intensive than all the parts to the Tempest. All Tempest parts are great... I mostly use the Tempest (native) when out of the house.
Octavia
No thoughts, head empty
Seconded! I kept scorching or burning the layer closest to the head whole the rest was medium roasted with the default full open. Reduced the head airflow to about half and I still can get close to scorching, but only in the center if I draw too quickly and the entire (half) bowl is nearly uniform chocolate brown. Need to test again with the SiC balls (since I originally thought they were part of the issue), but works perfectly with the default Zirc.
delta hotel
Well-Known Member
I initially started with it 1/3 - 1/2 open most of the time and somehow ended up thinking that I could get where I wanted by opening it up all the way, but this sounds like my experience. I'm going to try this on my next one and see how it goes.
FuckPyrolysis
New Member
Well shit, as many times as I've read the manual, including that part, I seem to have completely missed that part. After taking that part off the cap and slightly misshaping/testing it a couple times, it came out perfect. Thank you for pointing that out to me, @anome!
itching to try it.. c'mon usps! lol.
i have a couple ball vapes so i know how they work and dialed in.. even though tempest (by its looks) makes you think it's similar to a dyna- it is not. might be the reason for some of the issues.. ball vape heads can be 600-675F and when you draw, outside air cools it a little as it passes through the balls and the actual temp of air hitting the bowl load is a lot lower. of course you can combust just the same if the ball vape head is too hot.. looks like the head airflow on tempest modulates how much air is gonna hit the load (temp of that air is unknown especially if heated improperly or too quickly) smaller/closed airflow doesn't let such an instantaneous blast of heat which could ignite or char the load ..especially if you rip it.. gonna be fun to master.. slow pulls is like a graceful warmup.. maybe slightly harder draw when green/wet..but when it starts to dry and turn more brown a hard rip can more easily ignite the material... just like ball vape.. dyna is already heating the bowl along with the cap.. (more conduction) can't approach it like that.
i have a couple ball vapes so i know how they work and dialed in.. even though tempest (by its looks) makes you think it's similar to a dyna- it is not. might be the reason for some of the issues.. ball vape heads can be 600-675F and when you draw, outside air cools it a little as it passes through the balls and the actual temp of air hitting the bowl load is a lot lower. of course you can combust just the same if the ball vape head is too hot.. looks like the head airflow on tempest modulates how much air is gonna hit the load (temp of that air is unknown especially if heated improperly or too quickly) smaller/closed airflow doesn't let such an instantaneous blast of heat which could ignite or char the load ..especially if you rip it.. gonna be fun to master.. slow pulls is like a graceful warmup.. maybe slightly harder draw when green/wet..but when it starts to dry and turn more brown a hard rip can more easily ignite the material... just like ball vape.. dyna is already heating the bowl along with the cap.. (more conduction) can't approach it like that.
FuckPyrolysis
New Member
I can't believe I've gone this long without knowing this trick. I'm floored I went this long without even realizing my VapCaps could be adjusted this way. The shaming may commence...
babylungs_ent
New Member
Anyone tried putting their tempest in an axial heat coil like for a ball vape? Im guessing it’s not great since the end of the tip is normally outside the wand when using the glass adapter, and that’s not really possible with axial coils. I’m just curious what options exist. The wand around 550F to time out method works amazing.
BubbleDrop
Well-Known Member
Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
.d
Wubba Lubba dub-dub
Oooooh, thank you guys, I get it now, didn't really think of doing that.
So when the Tempest is resting on its throne after use, it would be best not to keep the 2 parts separated (empty bowl ofcourse) so that they remain in contact to share temperature? Something like that? So after X minutes when you do the second session the bowl is not fully cooled off while the head/cap is still more than warm?
I saw a few videos where people have their head/cap resting on a magnet and their stem apart from it, this way the steam should cool of quicker than the head/cap, right?
So in general you should always heat your tempest fully assembled and keep your tempest resting assembled?
Is this the right way to go about it?
Sry for the question spamming, preparing for my tempest inauguration
So when the Tempest is resting on its throne after use, it would be best not to keep the 2 parts separated (empty bowl ofcourse) so that they remain in contact to share temperature? Something like that? So after X minutes when you do the second session the bowl is not fully cooled off while the head/cap is still more than warm?
I saw a few videos where people have their head/cap resting on a magnet and their stem apart from it, this way the steam should cool of quicker than the head/cap, right?
So in general you should always heat your tempest fully assembled and keep your tempest resting assembled?
Is this the right way to go about it?
Sry for the question spamming, preparing for my tempest inauguration
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
Think it's more likely to be type 3, my understanding was type 1&2 titanium anodising were for specific applications.
Maybe just needs a bit more time finding your place on the scale?
I've been using more or less solely with a wand and I get on great with it, results perfect every time.
Even with uncalibrated coils it was fine.
Great piece of design.
There may also a safety thing with it, trying to mess around with the head on it's own while it's mega hot is risky.Sry for the question spamming, preparing for my tempest inauguration
I wouldn't try to heat the head on it's own, then try and fit the stem to it with material in.
I have run mine in this way, but with the whole device, so not exactly the same.
So full heat up with an empty bowl, remove lid with the reload, fill bowl, refit head and hit it, it takes a bit of working out, it's not worth doing in my opinion.
GnarlyVandal
Well-Known Member
Finally switched in boro glass and gave em a try at 270 til timeout 
🫠
Excuse me whilst I go lay on some grass
🫠 Excuse me whilst I go lay on some grass
sriyantra7
New Member
how long are cool down clicks taking for everyone? mine is new but I've only been getting the click when I start as I haven't been waiting for cooldown before starting a 2nd bowl and just been using the VI. It's okay to reheat after VI reaches zero right?
HaggisHunter
Well-Known Member
When I'm doing rapid half bowls, the VI on mine doesn't get a chance to cool much past the 1st mark and I'm heating it again.
So long as your not directly heating the VI coil you should be fine.
delta hotel
Well-Known Member
I'd like to tighten up my airflow sleeve, and I see in the manual it says to remove the indicator housing and sleeve. Does this involve completely disassembling the indicator or can I just remove the top entirely to get to the sleeve?
DISREGARD: You can just remove the whole housing.
DISREGARD: You can just remove the whole housing.
Perfect_Speed4069
I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
I bought a new Jobon triple especially for the Tempest, and I'm not sure it's much better than my Jobon Bullet cranked right up tbh. I love the versatility of the Bullet - for Vapmans, Bricks, Dani Fusion and now the Tempest. If they made one with a wheel at the bottom (instead of the fiddly pull up adjuster) and a window for the gas tank it really would be the perfect lighter (for me, at least). I'm sorry, I can't compare performance with the wand, because I have a self-imposed "no electronics" rule when it comes to vapes.
Radwin Bodnic
Well-Known Member
I like this rule. I think I unconsciously apply it to myself.
Well except when I'm at a friends that only have a mighty and usually very good weed... then I share the mighty with him.
Aaand I have a herbo Ti, but wait... 12v analog counts as electronics ? Don't you have any plug-in ?
Sorry for the OT...
sriyantra7
New Member
how do I set the half bowl? Do I remove the original full bowl screen and move it to the halfway position - but how do I remove it?