The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie

[Perfect_Speed4069]

My head unit feels fused to the stem now.

If I have a complaint about the Tempest it's that the head wiggles ever so slightly when placed on the Rosewood stem. On the metal, it's rock solid. Tbh, I'm not that bothered, but it makes me slightly concerned when removing it from the Reload.

 

[Brenyo]

If I have a complaint about the Tempest it's that the head wiggles ever so slightly when placed on the Rosewood stem. On the metal, it's rock solid. Tbh, I'm not that bothered, but it makes me slightly concerned when removing it from the Reload.

You can replace the o-ring that goes into the stem first to the 6*1mm size instead of the 5*1mm

 

[Cannabiker]

What's the go to setup for the beta people? People that have had their Tempest for awhile.

I'm liking helix tube closed stem and direct tube bypass stem with the secondary condenser.

I was already set in my ways from the Revolve before I scored a beta. To me, the best way to realize the full design potential of the device is using the helix tube with the stem open, with the screen at half-bowl. I initiate the hit with the carb closed, which primes the load, and then feather or flutter the carb like a penny whistle as necessary keep the hit cool and prevent overheating the bowl. I run the cap airflow wide open, so carb control is crucial to managing the bowl temp. I find that the open position works better than bypass for maintaining some draw on the bowl even with the carb open, similar to how a Dynavap Woodwynd (and, I've heard, an Omni--I don't own one) performs.

One thing that's really impressed me about the Tempest compared with my Revolve experience is reclaim accumulation. I never really bonded with the Revolve because I found it needed too much cleaning. It wasn't that it fouled up sooner than other DV stems, but it was more complex, so cleaning was a bigger operation. Meanwhile, I received my production Tempest almost two weeks ago, and, after heavy daily use, I just dropped it in ISO for the first time since its initial rinse. I could have gone longer. I think conduction-heavy vapes like the DV tend to create a slow-drip kind of reclaim, while convection vapes are better at keeping it in suspension.

I loved the beta, and I'm even more impressed with the production. With the upgrade kit installed in my beta, it's on a WPA, while my lovely black/rosewood version goes everywhere with me. Right at the moment, I'm all-Tempest, all the time. Even my trusty B-zero is sitting cold.

 

[anome]

head wiggles ever so slightly when placed on the Rosewood

Ya, been a little tempted to grab the dremel and notch out the wood (liner actually) stem, as done on the metal stem, to get it to sit correctly.

 

[cybrguy]

So here is my walk around Tempest with Rosewood sleeve and Revolve2 innards. She is a beauty.

 

[Musikchen]

So here is my walk around Tempest with Rosewood sleeve and Revolve2 innards.

Torch the VI

https://imgur.com/a/iJ8Vx8Y

 

[Krayban88]

Got my NGE themed Tempest today. Gonna clean and swap out the balls after checking out the manual. I also ordered a Reload v2 and no complaining but I was surprised at how small it was haha. The Dynavap also initially threw me off by the small size, so after that the Tempest was the exact size I had expected. But in my head I was thinking the Reload was around the height of the Ispire Wand for some reason.

https://imgur.com/56hslp0

 

[delta hotel]

Got my NGE themed Tempest today. Gonna clean and swap out the balls after checking out the manual. I also ordered a Reload v2 and no complaining but I was surprised at how small it was haha. The Dynavap also initially threw me off by the small size, so after that the Tempest was the exact size I had expected. But in my head I was thinking the Reload was around the height of the Ispire Wand for some reason.

https://imgur.com/56hslp0

Get in the Tempest Shinji

 

[FuckPyrolysis]

been tinkering with the Tempest over the past week. I'm able to get very consistent and good results from SiC, but ZIrconium completely eludes me. I feel like I never get enough "oomph" from them. the downside is that SiC is sometimes on the harsh side. any tips going from a faster-heating material to a slower-heating one?

for reference I typically have both airports mostly open

So I've only ever used zirc since I got my beta kit in March. I always find that I prefer the second bowl if I'm doing back-to-back bowls. First one, when the head is cold, I do 510F on the wand until it times out - the first hit is always light, along with the rest of the bowl. Usually not a ton of punch here, buta nice way to ease in. The second bowl, if done immediately after finishing the first (includes time for emptying/reloading via the Reload G2), I will drop the temp down to 420F and let it time out. The second bowl with zirc (for me, at least) is when the fun really starts. Great cloud on the first hit, including all the way through until the vapor is done. This gives me a slightly darker avb than the first bowl.

Something I've kicked around, but haven't done yet because I keep forgetting, is to run the cap through a normal 510F heat cycle, but without flower. After the cycle wraps, take it out, pack it up, drop the wand down to 420 and go for the second heat cycle, but this time with flower. I imagine it might not work exactly the same as the method I use every day, but it should be easy to dial in after doing it a couple times. Benefit of the better second bowl, but with the first load of flower. Maybe I can actually remember to do this tonight. Good luck!

 

[FuckPyrolysis]

@Brenyo, after getting my upgrade kit and completing the swap to the new parts, I've noticed the new induction layer freely spins around to the point that with a quick flick, the whole layer will spin around several times by itself. Just to note, the old one didn't grip very tightly, but this new one has almost no friction. Is there an easy fix for this? Thanks!

 

[delta hotel]

I've had mine for a little over a week now and there are a lot of options and ways you can configure the airflow and I'm mostly enjoying it, but maybe someone here can finally help me dial in the last little bit.

I played with the cap airflow settings, but most lately I've got it wide open. I use the helix insert with the airflow set to open. With this set up I'm mostly lung hitting it and just feathering or rolling the carb to try to cool it if it feels like too much heat is building, or to just carb some fresh air in. I'm aiming for a 1HE or at least close to it at least, from the full bowl. When I remove the cap after a session like this, the top is dark brown, an almost RTL look, but the closer it gets to the top, the lighter it gets, usually starting around 1/2 - 3/4 through. I've reheated it to see what's left and there's never much, but by the time I've done with my long, slow, single pull there's almost never enough heat in the cap to draw again. I saw people mentioning it was joint like and you could pass it back and forth, but mine isn't seeming to hold heat that long. Typing this I'm realizing maybe it's my aggressive 1HE draw, but curious if anyone has anything they'd recommend. If I use the Wand I heat to around 620 until timeout, I'm still trying to learn how to reliably hit it with a torch and where to aim it so I'll take any pointers you've got, it's a 50/50 if I combust or end up whispier than I wanted with a torch.

 

[anome]

@FuckPyrolysis manual says to squeeze into a slightly out of round shape.

 

[cybrguy]

I've noticed the new induction layer freely spins around to the point that with a quick flick, the whole layer will spin around several times by itself.

@anome has it right. Give it a squeeze to get it slightly out of round, just like what many need to do with a VapCap cap to keep it from slipping off...