Right? Like, where's the human empathy here? These are our bros! They're making stuff we wouldn't have dreamed of years ago. To do it all on likely a tiny budget is impressive. If it's a quality product, and the interactions are respectful, my patience is relatively unlimited. No point getting worked up over TED gear.
While I'm the last person to comment on how to run a business (other than running it into the ground!
) I have to wonder whether they expanded the product range too fast, and it's caught up with them in some way. Hopefully the new staff will get on top of things soon, it must feel awful to have that pressure of customer concern's on your back.I can understand the frustration of dashed expectations, especially with the ol' Vape Acquisition/Anxiety Syndrome racking up the tension, but feedback is much more productive without the high emotions in the content.
My take is that there are some addiction and anxiety issues tied into it. I don't like that some people vent those frustrations on others. If they get worked up over it, maybe it's time for some self reflection.
I would just buy the Ace housing if I were interested in that. You aren't going to see any benefit moving to the crossing PID controller.
Those rings are a special high temp compound. Remember these orings must be able to take whatever heat setting the coil is set to, including a long duration heat soak. A normal black buna-n oring won't cut it. And trying to source high temp orings in small amounts from a manufacturer is $$$$.
If those things really are factors (and I suspect there are a whole variety of reasons), then you have to allow for their impact on the subconscious mind. Addiction alone is a hugely powerful, poorly understood process. It's stems from natural processes being taken beyond their limits of regulation in the body so expecting normal thought patterns (whatever a normal thought pattern is!
) won't help. Addictive behaviour can generate all sorts of unsocial behaviour, but may well not be perceived by that person. Calling them out for it, even if correct (especially if correct!), usually just puts people on the defensive and in denial.I understand what you're saying, and you're not way off the mark, but some people don't understand this or even realise they do it. Sometimes gentle suggestions can be better than accusation and diminution of them and their actions even if grievous. Some people never get taught many of the rules about interacting, plus, strong emotions often blind people to the reality of the situation. I'm aware of this in myself where I can get very angry and frustrated over something and it's taken time to learn to try not to respond during that period, but wait for the adrenalin to subside.
I'd be inclined to agree. I tried my old CH pid with my screwball, even recalibrated the pid for it, but although the CH pid gave a far more precise realtime temperature reading (couldn't say if accuracy was any better or worse) with the readout following the change of temp in the coil and ball-head, it was quite a bit slower to heat up, and in the end I found the matched pid worked better, once I'd understood the different way it reads out the temperature, like allowing a few mins after it reads the correct temp as the read out won't show the smaller variations as it equalises.
IPA soak and q-tip swab. The reason I'm testing has to do with a customer/FC member reporting the o-rings received from a warranty claim still bleed green pigment when swabbed with IPA. If you scroll up a bit you can read the comment on pg 59 of this thread.
Ah. Even if the seals are rated for it, I think if you do that very often you'll degrade them.
Still this. I’m not needing to change to the smaller connectors. Don’t believe any buildup or whatnot is happening between the outer glass and bowl (not in the air path). I’ll remove it from the larger bowl next time it needs a cleaning to inspect
Yeah I've been looking at that idea myself got a design, just trying to source manufacturers.
Here is some concept art I cooked up last night for what I'd like to see in a duel 25mm coil hot hole for a wireless Screwball / quartz labware combo.
I think a vortex type flow would be the best as it would allow the hot air to mix better. If not a vortex in the heater one could be created quite easily for the outlet so as the hot air leaves the heater it's swirled and mixed thoroughly before hitting the bowl material. If the outlet holes were all angled say in a clockwise direction it would allow the air leaving the heater to swirl into a vortex mixing it all up and possibly helping to mix the bowl material as well as the hot air. Saying all that, the hot air leaving the Screwball seems very even anyway. I definitely like the Zirconia idea.
Wish I could see that art but seems to of been deleted. Hopefully I'll find it further on in the thread.
Here is some concept art I cooked up last night for what I'd like to see in a duel 25mm coil hot hole for a wireless Screwball / quartz labware combo.
Graphite or carbon tape might be better as that shouldn't off gas anything and is used for glass blowing usually on lathes to help hold joints or bungs in place.Nothing what so ever!
I'm not doing science, I'm speaking about my direct experience using this, as against my B2. Nothing more than that.
It's impossible to make much of any absolute temperatures since the calibration and positioning of the probe will impact that regardless of the products being used. All the Pid display gives, which is all I have, is a relative number against which we can make comparisons with previous runs, and to a slightly lesser degree, with others using same kit.
So I'm basing my comments on the responsiveness of the Pid/coil from eye-balling, and compared to the B2, it's a lot faster to reach working temperature, and it doesn't appear to have a detectable lag that the B2 shows, where the rubies have to catch up to the coils temperature at first, with the Pid reading above the set limit for a minute or so before settling back down, and also when it's used, the B2 shows maybe 8 to 10 degree drop in temp, and requires a period of reheating before using again. The SB doesn't seem to need to do that because the extra heat from 200W is being sucked into those rubies much faster!
Or am I talking balls?
Oh yeah, also see the same effect when heating the bowl - with the B2 the temp drops by maybe 8 degree's before coming back up as the bowl temp approaches the head temp. With the SB I see no drop at all, not even 1 degree (obviously it drops a little, but nothing the pid can display).
Just a thought on the kit itself, excellent as it is, I've picked up on three very small changes that I think would improve the out-of-the-box experience...
1. A tiny collar of some sort that can clip onto the stem of the coil and stop the whole assembly sliding on the stand until the head touches the steel of the up panel of the stand. Should be really cheap and easy to add I'd have thought?
2. A high-friction sticker (or feet) on the bottom of the pid so it won't slide on a smooth surface. Again, should be cheap and simple to include and makes a big difference when waving the head around on the end of that cable (I immediately stuck four little 'feet' on - much better!).
3. A wooden disk about 6cm diameter and 1cm thick, with a hole about 18mm wide at the centre, so the bowl can be placed there when hot but without touching the surface it's on (it gently wedges into the hole to support it upright), and also it can be used as a stand when filling the bowl, and will catch any crumbs that fall outside the bowl when filling it. Should again be really cheap to knock up, and yet really useful because the bowl doesn't balance well being so light, without some sort of support. Could make a slightly more sophisticated version from a high temp plastic, slightly dished like a saucer but essentially the same thing (or even a short candlestick affair out of lathed ally for a delux version).
That's not a criticism in the slightest by the way, but just the simplest cheapest things I could think of that would have improved it even more! Nothing that can't be improvised, but for sheer inclusivity, and bearing in mind the price puts this in the beginner range where some buyers may be less experienced at what to pay attention to.
Just a thought, but I used to work in wet chemistry labs, and we used a few different types of grease especially for Quickfit™ glass joints (glass to glass only, not suitable for the SB bowl) to prevent sticking. Some were silicon based, just a clear thick gel, and designed for high vacuum seals - others that wouldn't dry up and cause a seizure, wouldn't boil or out-gas etc. in a reaction vessel. i.e. a good few types and uses.
If this remains an issue (when doesn't it?) it may be searching online will come up with some options worth trying (avoid vaseline etc!). If not the more usual and popular online distributors, then going direct to scientific supplier websites (Dow Corning make them if you want a search term). As well as grease, another solution for glass-glass joints are thin ptfe sleeves that go around the male part before slipping into the female socket and preventing glass touching glass while providing a good seal.
Forgot to mention it's pretty expensive though on the size reels of it that are available from glass supply shops such as Mountain Glass Arts.
Yes, and it's completely inappropriate along with all that psychobabble talk preceding it.Er, you just have made a judgement!
It's also an uncharacteristic animosity for FC. I'm a new member but I've been lurking as a guest for years. I work in tech, the one and only internet forum I look at other than occasionally perusing the SysAdmin reddit page for IT dorks like me, is FC. What has always drawn me to FC is the discourse is respectful and mature, it's about as opposite of 4-chan as possible and that's what I want. I felt like these comments were not just inappropriate but also wholly out of place.
