@Megaton @virtualpurple
I'll post a parts list and a rough breakdown of how to build this log vape later in the day, so that others who want to build one can build along these guidelines.
Edit:
Here we go
Tools:
You'll need a power drill (a drill press would be better, if you wanne bore the bodies yourself), a set of Forstner bits 2,5 to 3,5 cm, a 10 mm drill bit for wood, two small saws for wood and steel, needle nose pliers, a wire cutter, a tube cutter, a soldering iron and probably some other stuff, like a hammer, screwdriver, sanding paper etc., which most will have at home anyway. A vice may come in handy.
Materials:
Wood, or some suitable ready made, raw wooden stuff, like a wooden cup, vase or whatever has a hole in it, that would accommodate the cork base for the heater cover. If you use ready turned wood instead -and bore the center hole yourself-, like a wooden pine hand rail for instance, the meter will cost you around 20,- EUR and you can easily make about 8-10 bodies from it (the size of my logs is roughly 10 cm hight x 5 cm wide). When boring bodies yourself, go for softer woods, as otherwise the Forstner bits might capitulate. Heat dregadation is not such an issue here as with closed core logs, as the tiny heater cover is nowhere in direct contact with the wood anyway.
Steel. You'll need a meter of thin walled (or capillary) ss tubing, with a wall thickness of about 0,3-0,5 mm. That's the stuff, hypodermic needles are made from. You'll get it at most hobby shops for building model kits or at some steel outlet via the web. I'll post a link or two later. For the heater cover I use a 10 mm outer diameter (OD)/ 9 mm inner diameter (ID) ss tube of about 5-7 cm length. For fitting ss tips, you'll then need another meter of 9 mm OD/8 mm ID tubing. The meter thin walled ss tubing costs about 10-15,- EUR. Enough for a lot of heater covers and tips.
If you wanne use Dynavap Vapcaps as stems, like the Woodscent, you'll simply have to get a meter of 11 mm OD/10 mm ID ss tubing for the heater cover instead, as the Dynavap tips have a 10 mm OD.
Heater: The 'Misty Pine' log is specifically designed for use with the classic log vape resistor: (An Ohmite 25J20RE), wire wound, enamel coating, 20 Ohm, 5 Watts. They cost around 2,- EUR a piece.
https://www.amazon.com/OHMITE-25J20RE-RESISTOR-WIREWOUND-piece/dp/B005S46Y4Y
The advantage of the log vape resistor is its limited heat output. It'll heat up the air to roughly 230°C when directly plugged into the 12V/1A wall-wart, which is ideal for producing big, dense clouds but usually still a few degrees away from combusting (if your screen isn't clogged or the chamber overfilled, that is). You can also use a 40W ceramic/ss heater cartridge indtead, but then you'll always need a dimmer or a VVPS to keep your log from overheating and burning down the house
Frankly speaking, the limited heat output of the resistor is probably all the heat you'll ever need.
You'll also need some butt splices (mine are simply tinned copper ones, fitting for 0,5-1,0 mm, but you're of course free to look, if you can find some made from ss) for extending the resistor's leads with few centimeters of 0,8 - 1 mm ss or tinned copper wiring and some lead free, high temp solder (I use Felder Fitting Solder S-Sn97Cu3). Silver solder would be ideal, but it's expensive and can't be handled with a soldering iron, but needs some kind of torch instead. There are also tin/copper solders that have an additional bit of silver, but I haven't tried them yet.
Cork. You'll need some barrel corks made from natural cork for producing the cork base that holds the heater cover, which is basically a 1 cm thick cork disk of whatever size fits the centre hole of your log vape body. You can get them via Amazon and they cost only a few cents a piece. They come in many sizes, but I usually buy them a bit larger, as they are sanded down to the fitting size easily.
Electronics. A 12V wall wart with at least 1A. Voltage must fit. Amperage can be higher than 1A, but must not be lower. It's plug should be a 5,5 mm barrel plug with a 2,1 mm pin (very common and wide spread). Then you'll also need need the female ss 12V DC jack, fit for soldering:
https://www.amazon.de/Stück-DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-metallausf-Lötfahnen/dp/B00CI6IOCA
Usually around 1,50 EUR a pop.
Optional: an inline 12V PMW dimmer for LEDs or some PMW motor controller, or a VVPS (mandatory though, if you wanne use a high powered heater cartridge instead of the resistor). Amazon has vast resources here. Just search for the above mentioned terms.
Misc.: some ss screens, 10 mm and 15 mm (for debris screen in the heater cover, tip screens and so on); having some meters of high temp med grade silicone tubing of various sizes ready, comes in handy all the time; some stiff felt, leather or cork for doing the bottoms... some 12 mm OD polypropylene test tubes make for great, inexpensive stems. Just drill a hole through the rounded bottom for the mouthpiece and fit a ss tip into the other end with a piece of med grade silicone. They can take up to 135°C, which is fine for a stem.
That's about it. Will be back later today or tomorrow morning, and write some instructions on how to put it all together.
Thanks
Their tolerance seems way over the usual 5% too, as I found myself having to continuously readjust the dial from unit to unit to produce good vapor and prevent combustion, even when the bodies were nearly identical. Well, cheap Chinese products and QC, I guess :/
