'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter blokenoname
- Start date
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
There! 
Some small improvements
Leads & DC jack: Having the heater 'standing' at a 90° angle directly on the DC jack works reasonable well, but bears the risk (though probably a minimal one), that when disconnecting a super snug sitting plug for instance, and twisting it to and fro to help it along, the jack itself might follow the movement, which in turn will twist the heater standing on it, which might result in a short out, should its leads touch within the ss heater cover, or make both contact with the ss cover itself. Also... the short leads there turn the DC jack itself into an oven plate due to conduction
Going back to one of the old vids Tom did on his Purple Days log years ago, I noticed him using rather longish leads for his heater, that he'd then wind around two screws within the PD's body first, before finally leading them to the DC jack for soldering.
Looks like crap, for sure, but turns out to be a rather simple and effective way for stabilizing and soldering the heater:
a) Longer leads means less heat conduction at there ends, connecting to the jack, which means the DC jack won't get hot anymore, the two ss screws themselves additionally workin as tiny heatsinks here.
b) Giving the wires a centimeter of leeway before twisting around the screws, allows for easily readjusting the heater's hight (and distance from the load) within the heater cover later on, without having to desolder and remove the whole heater first, cut its leads and then solder it back in again. Allows for easy going customization in doing hotter or cooler running logs, as need be. Quite useful, when dealing with tolerances in resistance so, shown by the cartridge heaters (usually about +/- 1ohm).
c) Giving you more control over the leads in general, preventing shorts and so on.
c) No longer having to bother keeping the little bugger of a heater in position, while doing the actual soldering
Bottom cap: Sick and tired of corks for plugging up the bottom here. Always running out of fitting sizes for needs at hand. As these buggers come tapered, there is only so much of a given cork you can make use of for doing a fitting plug, before it gets too small. Buying larger ones helps, but finally results in cutting and sanding down orgies and mountains of cork dust covering the table
So we simply do a fitting 30 mm wooden plug here from now on, and on-top of that goes a piece of black felt then, to cover up the whole affair and give it a bit more grip on the table top. And while I'm waiting for the fitting 30 mm wood blank to arrive (will also use that for making bodies for my MistyToGo 510 portable -see one page back-), I just cut another washer from me 30 mm teflon rod and plug the loggie up with that, for the time being. Nice, neat and safe too
So... that's it for today then, folks
Really wondering sometimes here, how comes I always seem to end up with a post of epic proportions, when just wanting to do a pic and maybe three or four lines of explanation max
@Megaton
The 'wireless idea' with the removable log from the base, like with the old Flash Evaporator, is indeed intriguing and I came across a vid only recently, of a guy doing exactly that with his own high mass core, set into a custom made log body (with the DC jack located at its bottom), RastaVapa seemed to have made for him (if I remember correctly there, that is), and I'll see, if I can find the link again and edit it in here later on.
Edit 1: Ah... here it is
Some small improvements
Leads & DC jack: Having the heater 'standing' at a 90° angle directly on the DC jack works reasonable well, but bears the risk (though probably a minimal one), that when disconnecting a super snug sitting plug for instance, and twisting it to and fro to help it along, the jack itself might follow the movement, which in turn will twist the heater standing on it, which might result in a short out, should its leads touch within the ss heater cover, or make both contact with the ss cover itself. Also... the short leads there turn the DC jack itself into an oven plate due to conduction
Going back to one of the old vids Tom did on his Purple Days log years ago, I noticed him using rather longish leads for his heater, that he'd then wind around two screws within the PD's body first, before finally leading them to the DC jack for soldering.
Looks like crap, for sure, but turns out to be a rather simple and effective way for stabilizing and soldering the heater:
a) Longer leads means less heat conduction at there ends, connecting to the jack, which means the DC jack won't get hot anymore, the two ss screws themselves additionally workin as tiny heatsinks here.
b) Giving the wires a centimeter of leeway before twisting around the screws, allows for easily readjusting the heater's hight (and distance from the load) within the heater cover later on, without having to desolder and remove the whole heater first, cut its leads and then solder it back in again. Allows for easy going customization in doing hotter or cooler running logs, as need be. Quite useful, when dealing with tolerances in resistance so, shown by the cartridge heaters (usually about +/- 1ohm).
c) Giving you more control over the leads in general, preventing shorts and so on.
c) No longer having to bother keeping the little bugger of a heater in position, while doing the actual soldering
Bottom cap: Sick and tired of corks for plugging up the bottom here. Always running out of fitting sizes for needs at hand. As these buggers come tapered, there is only so much of a given cork you can make use of for doing a fitting plug, before it gets too small. Buying larger ones helps, but finally results in cutting and sanding down orgies and mountains of cork dust covering the table
So we simply do a fitting 30 mm wooden plug here from now on, and on-top of that goes a piece of black felt then, to cover up the whole affair and give it a bit more grip on the table top. And while I'm waiting for the fitting 30 mm wood blank to arrive (will also use that for making bodies for my MistyToGo 510 portable -see one page back-), I just cut another washer from me 30 mm teflon rod and plug the loggie up with that, for the time being. Nice, neat and safe too
So... that's it for today then, folks
Really wondering sometimes here, how comes I always seem to end up with a post of epic proportions, when just wanting to do a pic and maybe three or four lines of explanation max
@Megaton
The 'wireless idea' with the removable log from the base, like with the old Flash Evaporator, is indeed intriguing and I came across a vid only recently, of a guy doing exactly that with his own high mass core, set into a custom made log body (with the DC jack located at its bottom), RastaVapa seemed to have made for him (if I remember correctly there, that is), and I'll see, if I can find the link again and edit it in here later on.
Edit 1: Ah... here it is
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
'Home Base' for the MistytoGo portable
With a Kanger 510 base rigged up as a female 510 connector
Can be run from a 6V/2A DC wall wart.
With a Kanger 510 base rigged up as a female 510 connector
Can be run from a 6V/2A DC wall wart.
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Small uodate on the portable.
First try on a wooden body for it. Bottom part split, as I was going for a wider bore there to accommodate the whole 510 base, but the shell got too thin there. So I sawed off the split piece and now it's a bit on the short side. Also totally askew, as always... but ok. Next one will come out better
First try on a wooden body for it. Bottom part split, as I was going for a wider bore there to accommodate the whole 510 base, but the shell got too thin there. So I sawed off the split piece and now it's a bit on the short side. Also totally askew, as always... but ok. Next one will come out better
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
New sharp Forstner bits arrived and I made some new bodies and also decided on POM thermoplastic for standard stems and (how do we call that now... ) 14mm/18mm 'PonGs', for the 8mm ss tips, with wood also being an option (though these are a PITA to drill out, due to splintering).
Bucket screens got replaced by flat 10mm screens (would like to get 5/16" ones, but don't know, if thoses exists to begin with), that come to rest against a 7,1 mm ss clip ring.
The portable MistyToGo also got an update on its body and a new, short wooden stem
) 14mm/18mm 'PonGs', for the 8mm ss tips, with wood also being an option (though these are a PITA to drill out, due to splintering).Bucket screens got replaced by flat 10mm screens (would like to get 5/16" ones, but don't know, if thoses exists to begin with), that come to rest against a 7,1 mm ss clip ring.
The portable MistyToGo also got an update on its body and a new, short wooden stem
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Hehehe... there is nothing like the scent of charring pine wood in the morning
Careful with the rpms there, while drilling
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Well... thumb sized loggie on a box mod can pretty much cook, I'd say
That's after 50 sec pre-heat time (or five 10 sec time out cycles)....
Guess, with a 75W/1,9ohm cartridge, I could shave some secs off that pre-heat time
That's after 50 sec pre-heat time (or five 10 sec time out cycles)....
Guess, with a 75W/1,9ohm cartridge, I could shave some secs off that pre-heat time
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Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Looks greatWell... thumb sized loggie on a box mod can pretty much cook, I'd say
That's after 50 sec pre-heat time (or five 10 sec time out cycles)....
Guess, with a 75W/1,9ohm cartridge, I could shave some secs off that pre-heat time
! Is this 50w 12v ? I can't wait to give those a try in a glass body,i got 40w 12v and 50w 12v comming in a week or so, do you order the 75w from China or there is an EU source ?Haha i have literally combusted some wood with the drill,lol.. Those forstners can get real hot at high rpm,even burned myself once trying to change the bit.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
ThanksLooks great
Nah. That's still the 40W/12V cartridge (3,66 ohm). This and the 40W/24V one (effectively 10W at 12V with about 15 ohm) are the only ones, that seem readily available across the EU. The 50V (2,8 ohm) one and 75V (1,9 ohm)one and also the 30W/24V cartridge (effectively 7W at 12V -19 ohm-) that RastaVapa recommended, are all coming directly from China and still need another two weeks.
The 7W cartridge or the classic Ohmite resistor powers the standard open core style MistyPine now, with its low mass heater cover.
The 10W cartridge powers the Misty units with the more classic high mass heat exchanger with the massive ss washer arrangement within its core now.
And the 40W cartridge powers the MistyToGo 510 portable now, soon to be exchanged for the 75W/1,9 ohm one, making for greater compatibility with existing box mods and hoping to shave off maybe another 10-20 secs of pre-heat time with that one here.
VAS stirred massively yesterday, when realizing that RBT's Splinter is available at VapeFiend UK for about €145,-, but apart from the pre heat time of 5-10 secs, where the Splinter clearly has the edge, once me little MistyToGo here is up to temps and flying... I mean, just look at that clouds!
So VAS indeed faltered, which is a new one here
That's a bottom view of the portable with the Velocity base and cartridge removed, showing the Velocity housing, to which the ss heater cover/tube is attached, whole arrangement then just going into the wooden sleeve. So simple in design and assembly, that with a couple of spare cartridges, a screwdriver and some spare high temp 30mm silicone rings for fastening the velocity housing/deck to the wooden sleeve, you're probably set for a life time, having a 100% rebuildable portable log vape here
When using the tiny cartridges in a wider glass cover, surface area might probably be too small to heat up the bigger air volume passing effectively (other than running red hot, that is), as twice the diameter of the air path already gives you four times the air volume passing, so either set in an additional 10-12 mm ss tube to set the cartridge into, like I did in my first glass prototype or maybe a boro glass tube of the same size (cut off down stem should do), to reduce air volume passing or alternatively maybe try expanding heater surface area by wrapping the cartridge tightly with ss fine mesh and a cut up ELB screen on-top/over that, to keep all neatly in place. That showed some promising initial results here, when going for a bowl the size of an 18/19mm tapered male glass joint, like the Splinter uses and before I decided for my portable to really be just a thumb sized classic log vape on a box mod and went with the ss heater tube there
Did I already mention, that I love me new little 14/18 mm PonGs (POM on Glass)!?
They seal perfectly in both joint sizes and give you a massive single rip with the tiny 8 mm or 5/16" ss tips, milking the glass like a steam engine
Also, the pine wood laths they use for supporting the ss tubing when packing up and posting a new batch make for nice little stem caddies
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Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Nice, i guessi will manage to get it going with the cartriges i have comming ! I am still looking for atomizer bases ,but maybe i am looking at the wrong place ? What model is your atomizer,there are several versions of Velocity i am finding ? I was doing a search into RBA bases this whole ,but maybe i should look into RDA, i really like how the coil holder is separated on yours with another 510 from the base.
Vas is a bitch, i should not tell you there is one splinter in the classifieds for 100 quid then..
Oh did you saw
Edited:
Can you please tell me the model both of the Kanger tank on previous page and the Velocity version ?
Btw now i get the purpous of the cork ring in your concept and why you suggested it,but in fact my atomizer base is nothing like this one,and it was really hard to cut a disc thin enough to fit between the 510 ,probably so thin that doesn do a good job in ishieding from radiant heat,if any..
Did saw these ? Phat ass modules ? https://www.rastabuddhatao.com/product-p/rbt_pam.htm
It basicly a massive zion heater in a wider ID splinter body from what i see.
Oh,btw heard back from the guys with the Custom cartridge heaters ,they redirected me to some guy that makes even single orders just by specs,but his prices are listed a bit high.. starting from 25 euro a piece.. it is like 10-15 times the cost compared to China.. I will shoot him an e-mail hopefully these are prices for big cartridge heaters,and small ones will be cheaper or at least some bulb discount or smth like that.
Vas is a bitch, i should not tell you there is one splinter in the classifieds for 100 quid then..
Oh did you saw
Edited:
Can you please tell me the model both of the Kanger tank on previous page and the Velocity version ?
Btw now i get the purpous of the cork ring in your concept and why you suggested it,but in fact my atomizer base is nothing like this one,and it was really hard to cut a disc thin enough to fit between the 510 ,probably so thin that doesn do a good job in ishieding from radiant heat,if any..
Did saw these ? Phat ass modules ? https://www.rastabuddhatao.com/product-p/rbt_pam.htm
It basicly a massive zion heater in a wider ID splinter body from what i see
.Oh,btw heard back from the guys with the Custom cartridge heaters ,they redirected me to some guy that makes even single orders just by specs,but his prices are listed a bit high.. starting from 25 euro a piece.. it is like 10-15 times the cost compared to China.. I will shoot him an e-mail hopefully these are prices for big cartridge heaters,and small ones will be cheaper or at least some bulb discount or smth like that.
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
For the exact version of the Valocity base we better ask @Megaton , who was so kind of lending out his own for my experiments here, as he can also point you to some cheaper clones there.
The Kanger base and RBA were just taken from one of the three Kanger Sub- and Toptanks I have in use here and is really crappy for use in a vape, as screws and all are so tiny, they resemble more specks of steel dust, than actual screws in size. A PITA to handle and then the recesses for fitting in the leads are so narrow, that neither the cartridge's leads, nor the 0,8 mm wiring I normally use will fit in properly. This is really good only for trying something out at a moments notice, b/c that base and RBA was already at hand but not for any production item.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KangerTech-Genuine-Exclusive-Toptank-Atomizer/dp/B073DWCM4T
As for the custom made cartridges, so far I'm pretty much covered with what's available on the EU abd China marked right now, with only the snail mail delivery from China being a nuisance. Thought already, that custom cartridges won't come cheap, if you don't order in sufficient numbers. When you get any news on the prices of the new guy for batches of ten or twenty, shoot me some info.
Edit: Looked into that classified's offer. Thx A for the Phat ass modules, saw that, but seems mostly sold out whenever I was looking. Basically a Splinter or Zion heater with just the electrodes/leads extending, as it seems. There is also some 'open source' thread here somewhere, with several different kits for self assembly, from getting all ready made parts for self assembly up to getting just the heater and CAD files for printing out a 3D body. But so far it looks, like it's not exactly hitting the ground running. Maybe @KeroZen can give more info there
The Kanger base and RBA were just taken from one of the three Kanger Sub- and Toptanks I have in use here and is really crappy for use in a vape, as screws and all are so tiny, they resemble more specks of steel dust, than actual screws in size. A PITA to handle and then the recesses for fitting in the leads are so narrow, that neither the cartridge's leads, nor the 0,8 mm wiring I normally use will fit in properly. This is really good only for trying something out at a moments notice, b/c that base and RBA was already at hand but not for any production item.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KangerTech-Genuine-Exclusive-Toptank-Atomizer/dp/B073DWCM4T
As for the custom made cartridges, so far I'm pretty much covered with what's available on the EU abd China marked right now, with only the snail mail delivery from China being a nuisance. Thought already, that custom cartridges won't come cheap, if you don't order in sufficient numbers. When you get any news on the prices of the new guy for batches of ten or twenty, shoot me some info.
Edit: Looked into that classified's offer. Thx
A for the Phat ass modules, saw that, but seems mostly sold out whenever I was looking. Basically a Splinter or Zion heater with just the electrodes/leads extending, as it seems. There is also some 'open source' thread here somewhere, with several different kits for self assembly, from getting all ready made parts for self assembly up to getting just the heater and CAD files for printing out a 3D body. But so far it looks, like it's not exactly hitting the ground running. Maybe @KeroZen can give more info there
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Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@blokenoname Thx very much for the link . I will ask them about 24v/30w do you need the 6mm/20mm size ? I might ask also for a larger OD so it ca do good in a glass cover,the halogen bulb size is 12 mm and they fit nicely,probably i will check on 12/20 size or 12/30mm. Btw what was the size of the Herborizer heater you used in your first model ?
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
6mm by 20mm is just perfect for me, nicely fitting into the 8 mm inner diameter of my standard 9 mm OD heater covers.
But having a 12mm OD ready additionally, for use in wider glass covers might come in handy here too.
Herbirizer heater was something about 8mm by 60mm, I guess. No idea right now, where I left mine, as one lead was broken off and so the whole thing unusable. When I come across it, I measure it again.
But having a 12mm OD ready additionally, for use in wider glass covers might come in handy here too.
Herbirizer heater was something about 8mm by 60mm, I guess. No idea right now, where I left mine, as one lead was broken off and so the whole thing unusable. When I come across it, I measure it again.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
I'd guess so. Just gimme that heater and ... 
But that's true for all me logs here too BTW, as rarely does one of the US made ones make its way into the Old World. But judging from comments from mates and others that got one for testing, I'm not too far off the mark, as it seems
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Megaton
Well-Known Member
The version of the velocity
i sent over to @blokenoname is discontinued now, but there are a few clone versions available on fasttech.com, just search velocity rda. They even have a slightely bigger 24mm version which im considering trying to use in a similar way to the stempod.
There is also a cheap two pack of velocity bases on fasttech if yoh don't need the body.
i sent over to @blokenoname is discontinued now, but there are a few clone versions available on fasttech.com, just search velocity rda. They even have a slightely bigger 24mm version which im considering trying to use in a similar way to the stempod.
There is also a cheap two pack of velocity bases on fasttech if yoh don't need the body.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
New MistyPine beta unit on the assembly line, for beta testing and review by our mate @Megaton here
Gets the 7W/19ohm cartridge heater (24V/30W/19ohm RepRap cartridge), @RastaVapa recommended and it's standard 9mm ss heater cover gets a 'multi size tip bushing', allowing use with my standard 8mm (5/16") stainless steel tip POM stems and PonGs, with the 11,x mm (ID) Arizer Solo/Air glass stems and GonGs and also use with the 10 mm (OD) Vapcap ss and Ti tips
Gets the 7W/19ohm cartridge heater (24V/30W/19ohm RepRap cartridge), @RastaVapa recommended and it's standard 9mm ss heater cover gets a 'multi size tip bushing', allowing use with my standard 8mm (5/16") stainless steel tip POM stems and PonGs, with the 11,x mm (ID) Arizer Solo/Air glass stems and GonGs and also use with the 10 mm (OD) Vapcap ss and Ti tips
Megaton
Well-Known Member
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Burning in now and ready to go by tomorrow
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
New tools day
Plus a 40 mm fir handrail for twig sized loggies and the 50w heater cartridges arrived, which should work with the rx200s mod now (2,88ohm)...
already did two new bodies and Megaton's MistyPine beta got send on its way for serious scientific testing 
Plus a 40 mm fir handrail for twig sized loggies and the 50w heater cartridges arrived, which should work with the rx200s mod now (2,88ohm)...
already did two new bodies and Megaton's MistyPine beta got send on its way
for serious scientific testing
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@blokenoname Haha ,so you got a drill press stand ,nice ) ! I gotta get one soon,too, for now i am using something i rigged myself from a juice press lol...
Are those heaters 6mm Diameter ,too ? Can you tell if the letters on them are laser engraved or is it some kind of ink ? I should be getting these in a few days too.)
Btw i guess the overheating on my wismec RX300 is present even,with a coil atomizer in concept similar to the Project ,in wattage mode. It doesnt happen in TC though,probably because it doesnt shoot constant current but rather auto-boost when it is needed. So in all i can say that the RX300 heats more or overheats easily than any other mod,ive tried recently.. maybe it has seen too much work,it is almost an year old and is seeing daily use. Please let us know how things are on the RX200s with those heaters,i am almost sure now that most of my issue is narrowed to a particular unit rather than brand/model.
) ! I gotta get one soon,too, for now i am using something i rigged myself from a juice press lol...Are those heaters 6mm Diameter ,too ? Can you tell if the letters on them are laser engraved or is it some kind of ink ? I should be getting these in a few days too.
)Btw i guess the overheating on my wismec RX300 is present even,with a coil atomizer in concept similar to the Project ,in wattage mode. It doesnt happen in TC though,probably because it doesnt shoot constant current but rather auto-boost when it is needed. So in all i can say that the RX300 heats more or overheats easily than any other mod,ive tried recently.. maybe it has seen too much work,it is almost an year old and is seeing daily use. Please let us know how things are on the RX200s with those heaters,i am almost sure now that most of my issue is narrowed to a particular unit rather than brand/model.
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Came both out nicely
Made a MistyPine unit with a wider (30mm) bore, to accommodate the high mass heat exchanger with the 10w cartridge heater. Will look into other woods for that, though. Something harder than pine or fir, but still workable with the tools at hand.
The twiggy sized MistyFir from the 40mm handrail got the standard, light weight ss heater cover and the 7w classic resistor. I like its lean look. Guess I make that my nightstand twiggy
Bottom air intake is gone in all logs now, drawing ambient air via slits in the heater cover itself now. Both units are also still missing the multi tip size bushing. Will do these tomorrow.
The 50w cartridge now plays ball with the rx200s mod and even abstains from overheating so far. Cutting the pre heat time by raising wattage didn't work out though, as 25w seem the safe max, you can the cartridge run with before going red hot. So essentially no change in performance here in comparison to the 40w cartridge, but for the added compatibility to the rx200 and like mods, that accept a 3,0-3,5ohm max resistance. So in VW mode, I run it at 25W using cruise mode to pre heat for about 50 secs, then inserting the stem an switch to pulsing whike drawing/as need be.
Cartridges are laser engraved, BTW.
Made a MistyPine unit with a wider (30mm) bore, to accommodate the high mass heat exchanger with the 10w cartridge heater. Will look into other woods for that, though. Something harder than pine or fir, but still workable with the tools at hand.
The twiggy sized MistyFir from the 40mm handrail got the standard, light weight ss heater cover and the 7w classic resistor. I like its lean look. Guess I make that my nightstand twiggy
Bottom air intake is gone in all logs now, drawing ambient air via slits in the heater cover itself now. Both units are also still missing the multi tip size bushing. Will do these tomorrow.
The 50w cartridge now plays ball with the rx200s mod and even abstains from overheating so far. Cutting the pre heat time by raising wattage didn't work out though, as 25w seem the safe max, you can the cartridge run with before going red hot. So essentially no change in performance here in comparison to the 40w cartridge, but for the added compatibility to the rx200 and like mods, that accept a 3,0-3,5ohm max resistance. So in VW mode, I run it at 25W using cruise mode to pre heat for about 50 secs, then inserting the stem an switch to pulsing whike drawing/as need be.
Cartridges are laser engraved, BTW.
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Stems, stems, stems and more stems...
Cheap as this drill-press-stand thingie came, it does help a lot
Should do the job, till I get me a real drill-press soon
And I really really like this lean little fir twiggy
Cheap as this drill-press-stand thingie came, it does help a lot
Should do the job, till I get me a real drill-press soon
And I really really like this lean little fir twiggy
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