My bamboo halo project coming soon...https://www.amazon.com/Galapagos-05...&sprefix=hollow+wood+tu,undefined,405&sr=8-48
'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter blokenoname
- Start date
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
@brainiac
Thank you!
Yep! Turned out quite well, with the sanding down to a conical shape. Inspiration of the moment, born out of sheer frustration over just another off center bore
Found that small belt sander at Lidl's WTF isle, where it was sitting all alone and forlorn for at least 3 weeks, before I took pity and bought the little thing
It's actually a handheld unit, but comes with two clamps, to fasten it to a table or workbench. Does its job quite well
Other than that friggin' center pin of our standard connectors driving me nuts for over a year now, when trying to solder the wire to it within the confines of the Log's base, no! Just wanted to see what alternatives there were to the standard connector and these looked to have more accessible pins for soldering and it said 'metal' on the tin, re the material. After they arrived, the casing proved to be plastic after all
Well... got 20 pcs now and so I just decided to try one out
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSeaMall-Socket-Connector-Adapter-Dustproof/dp/B07D4F15Y4
Your best bet to fasten glass heater cover is still a cork base there
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1301-57-Bamboo-Stick-60-Inch/dp/B0085TDLS6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=BAMboo+rod+2"&qid=1568383812&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Here's the recent maple wood Halo Misty in comparison to an old bamboo body, I made some while ago.
And beware... bamboo is a bitch, when it comes to the drilling part
Thank you!
Yep! Turned out quite well, with the sanding down to a conical shape. Inspiration of the moment, born out of sheer frustration over just another off center bore
Found that small belt sander at Lidl's WTF isle, where it was sitting all alone and forlorn for at least 3 weeks, before I took pity and bought the little thing
It's actually a handheld unit, but comes with two clamps, to fasten it to a table or workbench. Does its job quite well
Other than that friggin' center pin of our standard connectors driving me nuts for over a year now, when trying to solder the wire to it within the confines of the Log's base, no! Just wanted to see what alternatives there were to the standard connector and these looked to have more accessible pins for soldering and it said 'metal' on the tin, re the material. After they arrived, the casing proved to be plastic after all
Well... got 20 pcs now and so I just decided to try one out
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSeaMall-Socket-Connector-Adapter-Dustproof/dp/B07D4F15Y4
Your best bet to fasten glass heater cover is still a cork base there
Oops... that's quite big with 4" diameter. You can make nice little Log style bamboo bodies from natural 2" diameter bamboo poles, like this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1301-57-Bamboo-Stick-60-Inch/dp/B0085TDLS6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=BAMboo+rod+2"&qid=1568383812&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Here's the recent maple wood Halo Misty in comparison to an old bamboo body, I made some while ago.
And beware... bamboo is a bitch, when it comes to the drilling part
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I found a better source for my bamboo halo project, In the neighborhood. As for the 4" in diameter, This will be a hideaway halo bamboo log vape with three compartments. One side will hide the log vape, And the other side will hide the stems plus your ground herbs with a cork on each side. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Backyar...mboo-Poles-10-Piece-Bundle-HDD-BP07/203841434
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Evening
Inspired by @Alan and also by the design of the ancient 'Flash Evaporator' from the mid 90s, which featured a convex brass heater port (last pic), I experimented with a larger glass heater cover, cut from a 12mm OD test tube, into the convex bottom end of which I filed a small hole, that serves as the heater port. The idea is having the roasting tube rather sliding on-top the convex surface of the glass heater cover (like with that ancient Flash Evaporator), than to have them slip completely over or into the core. Makes it a two handed affair, of course, but also very versatile, as it also allows for a multitude of different sized/diameter bowls.
As long, as the inner diameter (ID) of a given roasting tube is smaller, than the heater cover itself, it'll seal on the curve of the convex heater port and as it's also free to move in nearly all directions and can be tilted at a multitude of angles without loosing the seal, you can roast your bowl evenly from all sides, by simply rotating and sliding it over the tiny opening in the center of the heater port, I filed into the glass, till all is evenly roasted and done. Works from the tiny 5/16" ss tips with the 7mm ID we use for the steel core Logs, over the 8mm ID Vapcap tips, the 10mm ID straight glass stems and GonGs/slide-a-bowel tubes, to the 11,5mm ID Arizer stems and GonGs and of course the 12mm ID tubes with the male 18mm joint, that are used for iHeat & Lil'Bud and so on.
It's powered by the 7,5w ss/ceramic cartridge heater, wrapped into 200 ss fine mesh to increase surface area a bit within the wider 10mm ID of the glass heater cover. Body is cherry wood
Well... works just terrific so far
, but testing all those different sized roasting tubes here 
begins to take its tall 
Inspired by @Alan and also by the design of the ancient 'Flash Evaporator' from the mid 90s, which featured a convex brass heater port (last pic), I experimented with a larger glass heater cover, cut from a 12mm OD test tube, into the convex bottom end of which I filed a small hole, that serves as the heater port. The idea is having the roasting tube rather sliding on-top the convex surface of the glass heater cover (like with that ancient Flash Evaporator), than to have them slip completely over or into the core. Makes it a two handed affair, of course, but also very versatile, as it also allows for a multitude of different sized/diameter bowls.
As long, as the inner diameter (ID) of a given roasting tube is smaller, than the heater cover itself, it'll seal on the curve of the convex heater port and as it's also free to move in nearly all directions and can be tilted at a multitude of angles without loosing the seal, you can roast your bowl evenly from all sides, by simply rotating and sliding it over the tiny opening in the center of the heater port, I filed into the glass, till all is evenly roasted and done. Works from the tiny 5/16" ss tips with the 7mm ID we use for the steel core Logs, over the 8mm ID Vapcap tips, the 10mm ID straight glass stems and GonGs/slide-a-bowel tubes, to the 11,5mm ID Arizer stems and GonGs and of course the 12mm ID tubes with the male 18mm joint, that are used for iHeat & Lil'Bud and so on.
It's powered by the 7,5w ss/ceramic cartridge heater, wrapped into 200 ss fine mesh to increase surface area a bit within the wider 10mm ID of the glass heater cover. Body is cherry wood
Well... works just terrific so far
, but testing all those different sized roasting tubes here begins to take its tall
brainiac
log wrangler
Goin' back t' see the folks...
This is where it all began for this unit. A woodland footpath. Winter storms had blown down a tree next to this (out of focus) apple tree and bent some of it's branches down across the footpath - from where they were duly cut during routine path maintenance in Spring. The wood is dense and hard. When the bark is removed a visually complex surface is revealed. Burrs (burl), knobbly bits and distinctive striations. Surface colouration is highly variable and seems to differ between logs debarked when green and those debarked when dry. The blank below was debarked when dry and has far deeper and denser striations than the unit above which was debarked green.
Not a great picture, I'm afraid, but note the way in which the dark vein follows the wood down
into the connector apperture.
@blokenoname elegant looking maple halo Misty you have there. A very tidy job indeed
@Vaporooni if I may humbly offer some advice to a new diy log builder (being a pretty new one myself) -
only buy sample quantities of materials. Your build choices will change repeatedly over time and your budget will probably have greater limitations than your imagination
ETA:
Yet more remarkable innovation from the Misty labs and you've done a great job on that piece of cherry.
This is where it all began for this unit. A woodland footpath. Winter storms had blown down a tree next to this (out of focus) apple tree and bent some of it's branches down across the footpath - from where they were duly cut during routine path maintenance in Spring. The wood is dense and hard. When the bark is removed a visually complex surface is revealed. Burrs (burl), knobbly bits and distinctive striations. Surface colouration is highly variable and seems to differ between logs debarked when green and those debarked when dry. The blank below was debarked when dry and has far deeper and denser striations than the unit above which was debarked green.
Not a great picture, I'm afraid, but note the way in which the dark vein follows the wood down
into the connector apperture.
@blokenoname elegant looking maple halo Misty you have there. A very tidy job indeed
@Vaporooni if I may humbly offer some advice to a new diy log builder (being a pretty new one myself) -
only buy sample quantities of materials. Your build choices will change repeatedly over time and your budget will probably have greater limitations than your imagination
ETA:
Yet more remarkable innovation from the Misty labs
and you've done a great job on that piece of cherry.
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Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
That test tube heater cover is a great idea! Never thought of making this into a logvape but i have used as a heater cover for a vaporizer made of this soldering station (bottom pic) ,i just stripped it to the ceramic element,like the popular DIY Hakko vape in the past and in the vain of Herb Iron(if you dont know it check it out ,it had a nice vaporizer attachment ).Lost interest into it ,because i didnt like the glowing ceramic,but now that is a really interesting twist you are giving it. I will give it a try later and try to rig a Halo-wand, similar to the Herb Iron or The Wand by OCD . Also i might try to dig up this soldeing iron and use to controller to power a vaporizer,it looks like it can make a decent stand ..
Edited: Have to add that the SSV classic heater cover also uses similar connection between heater cover and bowl ,i remember it had a bunch fans back in the day ,actually prefering it to the grounded one.
Here is a photo of the herb iron for reference.
Never thought of making this into a logvape but i have used as a heater cover for a vaporizer made of this soldering station (bottom pic) ,i just stripped it to the ceramic element,like the popular DIY Hakko vape in the past and in the vain of Herb Iron(if you dont know it check it out ,it had a nice vaporizer attachment ).Lost interest into it ,because i didnt like the glowing ceramic,but now that is a really interesting twist you are giving it. I will give it a try later and try to rig a Halo-wand, similar to the Herb Iron or The Wand by OCD . Also i might try to dig up this soldeing iron and use to controller to power a vaporizer,it looks like it can make a decent stand ..Edited: Have to add that the SSV classic heater cover also uses similar connection between heater cover and bowl ,i remember it had a bunch fans back in the day ,actually prefering it to the grounded one.
Here is a photo of the herb iron for reference
.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Yes! I remember reading s/where about the SSV using a type of 'ball & socket' connection for its wand and that some folks favored that.
It is kind of pragmatic and practical. As long, as you've some suitable <12mm ID hollow tube with a neatly cut edge, it'll seal on top of this test tube glass heater cover and make for a roasting tube, no matter what
Pick up your Vapcap or that big fat 18mm joint cooling stem today? What fits where? Doesn't matter... both seal perfectly well on top the convex test tube cover
And it works well Be it with the Vapcap or the bigger glass tubes, you get a first hit that resembles one from my SBJ on a good day, when you get it all just perfectly right re the technique, if you know what I mean
Just tested it with a 18mm GonG for the E-Nano through water... and wow!
Also like the retro look, it somehow has. Reminds me a bit of some '50s vacuum tube contraption
I wanted to make this a halo unit originally, but decided against that due to even the 10w bulb still being too bright when filtered only by a bit of fine mesh. Since I was able to set the bulb into a steel tube and as a result the Halo Misty being merely as bright, as a dim candle at full blast now, I'm a bit more sensitive there of what's acceptable brightness
Took a pic earlier, from the bulb wrapped into 200 fine mesh inside the test tube. Compare that to the Halo Misty on my table.
Maybe covering the inside of the test tube with some tolled up 0,1mm ss foil could help there.
It is kind of pragmatic and practical. As long, as you've some suitable <12mm ID hollow tube with a neatly cut edge, it'll seal on top of this test tube glass heater cover and make for a roasting tube, no matter what
Pick up your Vapcap or that big fat 18mm joint cooling stem today? What fits where? Doesn't matter... both seal perfectly well on top the convex test tube cover
And it works well
Be it with the Vapcap or the bigger glass tubes, you get a first hit that resembles one from my SBJ on a good day, when you get it all just perfectly right re the technique, if you know what I mean Just tested it with a 18mm GonG for the E-Nano through water... and wow!
Also like the retro look, it somehow has. Reminds me a bit of some '50s vacuum tube contraption
I wanted to make this a halo unit originally, but decided against that due to even the 10w bulb still being too bright when filtered only by a bit of fine mesh. Since I was able to set the bulb into a steel tube and as a result the Halo Misty being merely as bright, as a dim candle at full blast now, I'm a bit more sensitive there of what's acceptable brightness
Took a pic earlier, from the bulb wrapped into 200 fine mesh inside the test tube. Compare that to the Halo Misty on my table.
Maybe covering the inside of the test tube with some tolled up 0,1mm ss foil could help there.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Reworked the older maple 10mm glass core Misty with the new 12mm test tube heater cover
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Evening!
Stems/roasting tubes and WPAs seem to breed & multiply with this one
Stems/roasting tubes and WPAs seem to breed & multiply with this one
Megaton
Well-Known Member
@blokenoname must have all the options!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Yep! All the options!@blokenoname must have all the options!
I guess, we've also reached a definitive and quite comprehensive Misty line up now, with the latest glass core addition
We will have:
a) Classic Steel Core Misty, with 9mm OD ss heater cover, 7,5w resitor/cartridge heater (will accept 5/16" or 8mm steel tips for slide in and 9-10mm ID glass stems/WPAs for sliding over the core)
b) Halo Core Misty, with 11mm OD ss heater cover, 10w halogen bulb heater (will accept 10mm OD steel & glass & Vapcap tips for slide in and Arizer Air/Solo stems/WPAs for slide over)
c) Glass Core Misty, with 12mm OD glass heater cover, 7,5w cartridge heater (will accept almost any stem/WPA you throw at it)
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Afternoon!
Quite a productive Sunday afternoon so far!
That old cherry unit got reworked again, getting the most recent iteration of the 9mm steel heater cover, with a smaller, 20mm OD M8 washer at its base, reducing contact area and thereby reducing heat conduction to the wooden body and also preventing the wood from shrinking against the washer over time, which might lead to being unable to remove the heater cover again at a later date or in the long run, even crack the wood.... must have reworked that unit five times or more by now, all in all
Next, I created a new stem for my Splinter, using a standard 19/26 cone tube! Shortened the tube using a small triangular diamond file and flame polished the cut. Then sanded down the joint itself from 26mm length to 23mm. This fits the Splinter nicely, when you don't need extra space to accommodate the rimmed basket screen, the vape comes with.
Instead of using that rimmed screen, I inserted a 12mm/10mm OD/ID test tube for an additional glass liner. Filed off the closed bottom and then heated the edge with a torch while slowly rotating the tube, until it melted and contracted from the surface tension, till I had a nice nipple end, to put to your lips, instead of that wide opening of the original stem
(Thanks to @Alan again, who explained the procedure to me. Get well soon, man!)
The glass liner reduces the ID of the stem to 10mm and also allows me to set in one of my own, adjustable 10mm (rimless) basket screens, making it easier, to accommodate smaller load sizes, if so desired. The double sleeved glass should also help a bit to cool down the vapor.
Last, but not least, I got out and dusted off the glass (I usually prefer dry use over glass), as it works so damned well with the new 12mm glass heater cover
Set a 14mm female joint into the wide mouthpiece of the bong, to allow for connecting a 14/23 stem, which makes for a much more civilized mouthpiece there, or alternatively a whip, made from 9mm silicone tubing, with a short 14mm male joint on one end and a 9mm boro glass straw for a mouthpiece on the other end
As I was so lucky, to get some med grade/high temp silicone recently (which is totally odorless) , I also recreated one of Alan's good old 'turbo tubes', which is basically just a 10mm glass tube for a mouthpiece with a silicone sleeve at the business end, which also serves as the bowl.
A 10mm flat screen rests against the frontend of the glass tube, which serves as a backstop. Bowl size is easily adjustable by moving the sleeve and a turbo tube makes also for a fine WPA, as the 13mm OD silicone sleeve seals perfectly within a 14mm female joint
Note: Don't do this with non medical grade silicone, as it'll stink!
Have a nice Sunday all 
ETA: Milk Shot with the recent glass core Misty with the 12mm glass HC
Quite a productive Sunday afternoon so far!
That old cherry unit got reworked again, getting the most recent iteration of the 9mm steel heater cover, with a smaller, 20mm OD M8 washer at its base, reducing contact area and thereby reducing heat conduction to the wooden body and also preventing the wood from shrinking against the washer over time, which might lead to being unable to remove the heater cover again at a later date or in the long run, even crack the wood.... must have reworked that unit five times or more by now, all in all
Next, I created a new stem for my Splinter, using a standard 19/26 cone tube! Shortened the tube using a small triangular diamond file and flame polished the cut. Then sanded down the joint itself from 26mm length to 23mm. This fits the Splinter nicely, when you don't need extra space to accommodate the rimmed basket screen, the vape comes with.
Instead of using that rimmed screen, I inserted a 12mm/10mm OD/ID test tube for an additional glass liner. Filed off the closed bottom and then heated the edge with a torch while slowly rotating the tube, until it melted and contracted from the surface tension, till I had a nice nipple end, to put to your lips, instead of that wide opening of the original stem
(Thanks to @Alan again, who explained the procedure to me. Get well soon, man!)
The glass liner reduces the ID of the stem to 10mm and also allows me to set in one of my own, adjustable 10mm (rimless) basket screens, making it easier, to accommodate smaller load sizes, if so desired. The double sleeved glass should also help a bit to cool down the vapor.
Last, but not least, I got out and dusted off the glass (I usually prefer dry use over glass), as it works so damned well with the new 12mm glass heater cover
Set a 14mm female joint into the wide mouthpiece of the bong, to allow for connecting a 14/23 stem, which makes for a much more civilized mouthpiece there, or alternatively a whip, made from 9mm silicone tubing, with a short 14mm male joint on one end and a 9mm boro glass straw for a mouthpiece on the other end
As I was so lucky, to get some med grade/high temp silicone recently (which is totally odorless) , I also recreated one of Alan's good old 'turbo tubes', which is basically just a 10mm glass tube for a mouthpiece with a silicone sleeve at the business end, which also serves as the bowl.
A 10mm flat screen rests against the frontend of the glass tube, which serves as a backstop. Bowl size is easily adjustable by moving the sleeve and a turbo tube makes also for a fine WPA, as the 13mm OD silicone sleeve seals perfectly within a 14mm female joint
Note: Don't do this with non medical grade silicone, as it'll stink!
Have a nice Sunday all
ETA: Milk Shot with the recent glass core Misty with the 12mm glass HC
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brainiac
log wrangler
Log Aid
Vital supplies for log building have arrived chez Brainiac from Germany
The 'care package' comprises:
ss tubing (various sizes), 0.1mm ss foil, cork, a bunch of washers, glass test tubes for heater covers, a glass dd stem, a complete ss heater cover and an oak Misty ss core halogen unit.
All wrapped in eco-friendly recycled packaging materials
A marvelous gift from @blokenoname and yet another demonstration of his thoughtful generosity
I shall repay the kindness by putting it all to good use.
Many thanks, mate.
Vital supplies for log building have arrived chez Brainiac from Germany
The 'care package' comprises:
ss tubing (various sizes), 0.1mm ss foil, cork, a bunch of washers, glass test tubes for heater covers, a glass dd stem, a complete ss heater cover and an oak Misty ss core halogen unit
.All wrapped in eco-friendly recycled packaging materials
A marvelous gift from @blokenoname and yet another demonstration of his thoughtful generosity
I shall repay the kindness by putting it all to good use.
Many thanks, mate.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Enjoy!
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
How to make basket screens I:
Small baskets for the 8mm ss tips and 10mm/7mm OD/ID glass stems
Take 6 or 7mm backend of a drill bit or s/thing equally convenient lying around. Fold 20mm flat screen loosly over it > then hammer drill bit plus screen through a piece of 9mm/8mm OD/ID ss tubing.
Remove from the tube and cut off the uneven rim till you have a nice basket.
Small baskets for the 8mm ss tips and 10mm/7mm OD/ID glass stems
Take 6 or 7mm backend of a drill bit or s/thing equally convenient lying around. Fold 20mm flat screen loosly over it > then hammer drill bit plus screen through a piece of 9mm/8mm OD/ID ss tubing.
Remove from the tube and cut off the uneven rim till you have a nice basket.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Looking for a budget solution for a 510 portable convection dry herb vape!?
Try the Wotofo Profile Unity RTA. Originally got it, to build my own portable from the provided base, which features a 0,18 ohm mesh heater (kanthal A1)...
but after studying the design of the tank a bit, it proved utterly sufficient to just add a debris screen to the drip tip aperture and a 12mm outer diameter glass stem with a basket screen, to turn it into a full blown convection dry herb vape
Just install the provided mesh heater 'coil'/sheet and start at around 26,5w in wattage mode. Preheat for 4-6 secs. Air intake is adjusted to one hole
Will get me the Profile RDA version next, to see if we can streamline the design a bit. The mesh heater base is generally a good starting point for any DIY 510 vape.
The RTA is about € 30.
10 reserve mesh sheets are around € 7.
Try the Wotofo Profile Unity RTA. Originally got it, to build my own portable from the provided base, which features a 0,18 ohm mesh heater (kanthal A1)...
but after studying the design of the tank a bit, it proved utterly sufficient to just add a debris screen to the drip tip aperture and a 12mm outer diameter glass stem with a basket screen, to turn it into a full blown convection dry herb vape
Just install the provided mesh heater 'coil'/sheet and start at around 26,5w in wattage mode. Preheat for 4-6 secs. Air intake is adjusted to one hole
Will get me the Profile RDA version next, to see if we can streamline the design a bit. The mesh heater base is generally a good starting point for any DIY 510 vape.
The RTA is about € 30.
10 reserve mesh sheets are around € 7.
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Lina María
New Member
Hello community. Very interesting this project. I am very interested in doing it, but at the time of buying the resistance they ask me for some information that I did not find. Could you tell me the diameter, length, voltage, watts. Thank you very much everyone in advance. I am delighted with this forum
brainiac
log wrangler
Hi Lina. Welcome to the thread and the site
@blokenoname is the best guy to provide the information and I would guess that he'll be along soon.
In the meantime, perhaps you could describe the sort of vape that you'd like to build. Is it one of these 510
units designed for dry herb or a log type vape?
@blokenoname is the best guy to provide the information and I would guess that he'll be along soon.
In the meantime, perhaps you could describe the sort of vape that you'd like to build. Is it one of these 510
units designed for dry herb or a log type vape?
Lina María
New Member
Hi brainiac thanks for your response and your kindness. I will try to make a log vape since I have wanted one for a long time, but I am one of the people who have fun doing projects and more if it has to do with wood.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
@Lina María
The resistor we use for standard Log vapes here is the 25J20RE from Ohmite:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Ohmite/25J20RE?qs=T1/Cvhh228I%2bs3gSXZfWNg==
If this is your first attempt at Log building, I'd suggest starting out with a glass core unit first. They are the most easy to build, both in regard to tools and materials needed and also to the building process itself.
For the glass heater cover you can get inexpensive borosilicate glass straws with an outer diameter of 10mm. Only a small, triangular diamond file is needed, to cut those to the appropriate length.
For the base to set the glass heater cover into, you'll need a plug of narural cork (search for barrel corks).
For the body, you can use a bamboo rod of roughly 4cm outer diameter.
Then you just need the 5mm/2,1mm 12v DC connector, a bit of stiff, silver plated or tinned copper wire and a soldering iron plus tin and are more or less all set
Good afternoon @all
Good loggin morning so far
Found, that there also was a RDA version of the Wotofo Profioe atty, that does away with the glass tank and us even easier to mod into a 510 dry gerb vape, than the Unity RTA/tank version
I let the pics speak for themselves:
The 12mm glass stem features a 9mm stainless steel tip as an insert now, which protrudes from the glass for about 5mm, to make direct contact with the hot debris screen when inserted, thereby raising the steel insert/bowl's temperature via conduction and so making vapor production more rich, while at the same time allowing for overall wattage reduction.
Down to just 21Wnow, with really nice results and dark browned avb after an initial longer hit with the firing button held and about three subsequent draws, where mere pulsing is sufficient, to hold the desired temp.
The ss insert has an 8mm inner diameter, just like a Vapcap Ti or ss tip. It also has an adjustable basket screen and allows for variable load size.
The new 510 portable makes also for a nice, unobtrusive addition to the stem rig
The resistor we use for standard Log vapes here is the 25J20RE from Ohmite:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Ohmite/25J20RE?qs=T1/Cvhh228I%2bs3gSXZfWNg==
If this is your first attempt at Log building, I'd suggest starting out with a glass core unit first. They are the most easy to build, both in regard to tools and materials needed and also to the building process itself.
For the glass heater cover you can get inexpensive borosilicate glass straws with an outer diameter of 10mm. Only a small, triangular diamond file is needed, to cut those to the appropriate length.
For the base to set the glass heater cover into, you'll need a plug of narural cork (search for barrel corks).
For the body, you can use a bamboo rod of roughly 4cm outer diameter.
Then you just need the 5mm/2,1mm 12v DC connector, a bit of stiff, silver plated or tinned copper wire and a soldering iron plus tin and are more or less all set
Good afternoon @all
Good loggin morning so far
Found, that there also was a RDA version of the Wotofo Profioe atty, that does away with the glass tank and us even easier to mod into a 510 dry gerb vape, than the Unity RTA/tank version
I let the pics speak for themselves:
The 12mm glass stem features a 9mm stainless steel tip as an insert now, which protrudes from the glass for about 5mm, to make direct contact with the hot debris screen when inserted, thereby raising the steel insert/bowl's temperature via conduction and so making vapor production more rich, while at the same time allowing for overall wattage reduction.
Down to just 21Wnow, with really nice results and dark browned avb after an initial longer hit with the firing button held and about three subsequent draws, where mere pulsing is sufficient, to hold the desired temp.
The ss insert has an 8mm inner diameter, just like a Vapcap Ti or ss tip. It also has an adjustable basket screen and allows for variable load size.
The new 510 portable makes also for a nice, unobtrusive addition to the stem rig
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
You'll realize pretty soon the drawbacks of SS RDA bodies unfortunately: they get burning hot to the touch (dangerously so sometimes) and this heat robbing is supper inefficient battery-wise, most of it escapes by convection to the environment (while it's true that some is reflected back to the heater, the SS finish is usually brushed where a metal one would be more desirable)
Glass bodies are a tad better, but they get hot too, and they can break too easily.
I think the Holy Grail at the moment is a thin wooden body with optionally a very thin internal metal lining (using a mirror finish rolled SS foil) The metal must have the least possible mass (as to not conduct too much to the surrounding wood and the mirror finish should reflect a good deal of the IR towards the heater and surrounding air)
But SS bodies, a bit meh in practice. Unless you like slow rolling trains that is. And the heat reservoir effect can help to get bigger hits maybe, as long as you're not wasting it just warming the exterior air and the mod... I think it's also a reason why Stempod released the Si variant (the first one had SS RDA body and they had to provide a silicone sleeve to prevent burns... but silicone is even more meh)
Glass bodies are a tad better, but they get hot too, and they can break too easily.
I think the Holy Grail at the moment is a thin wooden body with optionally a very thin internal metal lining (using a mirror finish rolled SS foil) The metal must have the least possible mass (as to not conduct too much to the surrounding wood and the mirror finish should reflect a good deal of the IR towards the heater and surrounding air)
But SS bodies, a bit meh in practice. Unless you like slow rolling trains that is. And the heat reservoir effect can help to get bigger hits maybe, as long as you're not wasting it just warming the exterior air and the mod... I think it's also a reason why Stempod released the Si variant (the first one had SS RDA body and they had to provide a silicone sleeve to prevent burns... but silicone is even more meh)
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Good advice as always, @KeroZen
Though don't fret (!), as such a wooden body as you envisioned is, of course, already in planning and as there also seems never a shortage of recyclable old vape bodies here, a not so nice looking but nevertheless functional prototype has already been cobbled together for further fine tuning
Using the RDA ss body itself, remains despite your list of disadvantages a nice user hack to create a an inexpensive, fully functional 510 convection portable for folks, who're not willing or able to churn out $100 + for a Stempod or similar, and that anybody can accomplish at home with just adding a few screens, a spring ring and a fitting 12mm stem
ETA: Niced that Up a bit, as far as the old body allowed, and also shortened the sleeve a bit.
ETA2: Aaaaand after another go with the band-sander ...
But enough engineering for today. The neighbors scream protest already
Though don't fret (!), as such a wooden body as you envisioned is, of course, already in planning and as there also seems never a shortage of recyclable old vape bodies here, a not so nice looking but nevertheless functional prototype has already been cobbled together for further fine tuning
Using the RDA ss body itself, remains despite your list of disadvantages a nice user hack to create a an inexpensive, fully functional 510 convection portable for folks, who're not willing or able to churn out $100 + for a Stempod or similar, and that anybody can accomplish at home with just adding a few screens, a spring ring and a fitting 12mm stem
ETA: Niced that Up a bit, as far as the old body allowed, and also shortened the sleeve a bit.
ETA2: Aaaaand after another go with the band-sander ...
But enough engineering
for today. The neighbors scream protest already
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