I put a liquid pad on top of the load and it adds conduction and gets me a very even AVB. Might want to give that a try, yeah?Question: Has anybody had any luck adding additional conduction by using screens in their capsules? I put one screen on the bottom of the capsule, one on top of a half load, then add an additional domed screen on top to keep the half load of herbs lightly compressed. Then I put the lid on to keep everything secure. For what it's worth, I removed the screen from my cooling unit as I really don't need it with my technique. I really thought I might get slightly higher temperatures (darker ABV) than 410F doing this. *sigh* Not so much.
Don't get me wrong, I get good results with my Mighty. But I run it at max temperature for the whole session until I get no more vapor. Afterwards, I put the 'spent' load in my Solo 2 at max and get more clouds until the ABV is dark brown.
I realize that ABV color is not necessarily a reliable indicator for extraction, but my Solo 2 seems to milk more from my herb and gets the ABV a lot darker. I do realize there is more conduction going on in the Solo 2 than the Mighty and that it has a higher maximum temperature. I also know that convection usually won't get your ABV as dark a brown as conduction.
Anyone had any luck getting better results? Am I doing something wrong? I realize that this vape has made a lot of folks very happy so I am definitely not bashing it at all. I'm just a higher temperature guy and like to get all I can from my herb the first time. Don't really care about taste...just results.
I second that. I’ve been using the liquid pads in my Mighty, Crafty and Plenty since day 1, makes all three of them solo session vapes........A nice little .15 load in the Crafty or Mighty with the pad on top.....still works like a charm. For the Plenty, because of its large chamber (learned how to use prior to the reducer chamber being offered), I just mix the same amount with ABV. I have a handful of capsules, but with the pads, they’re just superfluous.I put a liquid pad on top of the load and it adds conduction and gets me a very even AVB. Might want to give that a try, yeah?
Nice to read an honest, critical thought about the SLX ("Ess Ell ex" to me). Apparently there's an unwritten rule in the grinder thread prohibiting that. Even with all the hype in that thread, I have never wanted one. First of all because it's not deep enough. My hands would hit each other. Volcano grinder avoids that by having strategically placed knurling. Which actually does something.I got the SLX when it just came out and was only available at this one shop in Amsterdam for eur 100, but I had read so much about it, and was so exited about it, I just got it.
10 months later, I think there's a lot of hype to it. Some of the ceramic coating has come off the edges of the teeth, it DOES get dirty (F that "never clean again" BS) tho maybe less than your traditional grinder. Personally I would like the end product to be more finely grinded, but that's personal. The finish on the grinder itself is not worth it's money, at least not what I paid.
Before that, I had for close to 10 years a wooden grinder I once bought in Germany, with spikes coming out. Did the work and did get dirty, but cleaning it was part of the fun when I was dry.
I stay away from plastic grinders, coz they chip. I still have to meet a plastic grinder that can handle a nice nug of GSCs. I thinking it's a shame that the S&B products come with such a cheap looking grinder.
the stuff that little girls sell from door to door in the US?Also, do Europeans even know what Girl Scout cookies are?
New Vape Fine Grinder....you will love it.What is a good S&B grinder alternative?
Just goggeled the SLX.
70€ for a grinder.
Holy cow.
The vaping plastic thing got me thinking.
Cock?btw what's the male version of that?
I have used ever kind of grind I have in the MV-1 without issues, tell the truth.@Baron23 does the fine grind work well on Ghost?
Many vibration generators (and I think Mighty/Crafty are this way) are simply mechanical, not much more than a small weight spinning on a shaft that is set slightly off-center (eccentric) through the weight. Often they can 'hang', or stop at a point where it's harder for the small current to rotate the shaft next time it's called to do so. It's also not uncommon for this condition to self-correct. If the unit is not vibrating , you can try to reset by bumping the Mighty (near the bottom) sideways on say, the palm of your hand.Anyone notice that after you drop it, it stops vibrating for a while, but always comes back? It's happened a few times for me.
Nice to read an honest, critical thought about the SLX
Also, do Europeans even know what Girl Scout cookies are?
I've decided to only use dosing capsules with my Mighty as it keeps things very clean. But thank you for the suggestion, @Baron23. The capsule liquid pads are too thick to use with herb and I don't really feel like trying to pry one apart to make it thinner. So far, my screen method in the capsules seems to be working rather well.I put a liquid pad on top of the load and it adds conduction and gets me a very even AVB. Might want to give that a try, yeah?
I'm not convinced. (Stu will get over it. He's a cool guy.)...then yes, we know what GSCs are.
But let's keep it about the Mighty, as Stu says.
1. I use a paint brush for cleaning housing.Hello everyone,
I've been a long-time reader of this thread and finally decided to sing up and also contribute. I am based in Vienna, Austria and have been an avid Mighty-user for 1+ years. Before that I was using a Crafty which I had to send in because of battery-issues after like 11 months. I put a hand-written note in asking for an upgrade to a Mighy, which S&B granted for a 60€-fee. Since then, I have been in love with this device. I've taken it or the Crafty to a whole bunch of different countries (US, Costa Rica, Indonesa, Singapore, Nigera, Uganda, Tanzania, pretty much every EU country) in the last 2 years and also used it in every country except for Singapore.
Anyways, I have 2 questions that I didn't find any info on in this thread:
1) How do you keep the Mighty's housing clean? Mine has collected quite a bit of dust/tiny weed crumbles and I just can't quite figure how do get it off. Q-tips are too big to get between the fins.
2) Is there any special trick to clean the screens? I have replaced the screen of the mouthpiece with the finer one that is intended for the chamber. And it can get quite dirty. For the plastics parts it's easy - I use a combination of iso/q-tips and a magic ereaser which gets the job done nicely. But the screen is impossible to clean with any of those, even if I let the screens soak for 24 hours.
Any tips?
I agree with ktmstick. Use the brush on the gaps between the fins (and BLOW any debris out ). And soak the screens in ISO.Anyways, I have 2 questions that I didn't find any info on in this thread:
1) How do you keep the Mighty's housing clean? Mine has collected quite a bit of dust/tiny weed crumbles and I just can't quite figure how do get it off. Q-tips are too big to get between the fins.
2) Is there any special trick to clean the screens? I have replaced the screen of the mouthpiece with the finer one that is intended for the chamber. And it can get quite dirty. For the plastics parts it's easy - I use a combination of iso/q-tips and a magic ereaser which gets the job done nicely. But the screen is impossible to clean with any of those, even if I let the screens soak for 24 hours.?
1) How do you keep the Mighty's housing clean?