The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I don't remove the locking cap or any of the o-rings, and rarely even remove the c/u screen.
Pull out mouthpiece, separate top/bottom of c/u and (after scraping available reclaim, if you want it) put those 3 things into a zip-lock baggie with an ounce or two of iso. Hang that in a glass of hot water to warm it all. Take the baggie out and shake occasionally. After about ten minutes soaking and then maybe a little brushing while still in the iso, the parts all can be transferred into a dish of soapy water, then rinsed thoroughly.
 

HellsWindStaff

Dharma Initiate
Thanks for the response..okay, I'll try your method when I get home to see if it comes off easier that way. I was just trying to lift one side without pushing it toward the lifted side concurrently. Hmm, if you don't remove the top cap, then how do you clean the cooling unit? They say not to soak the top cap in ISO.

As to the top screen, I was thinking it was supposed to seat tightly within the groove and not move. Good to know it sits a little loosely and as you say can twist it with your finger ....so I think it's correct then..

For the screen, use the little poker on the bottom to wedge it in the groove. works like a charm

This is how I clean my CU:

- Tupperware container I fill with ISO.
- I unlock the unit, preferably after using it or just getting some hot air so it pulls apart easily. Pull it apart holding the base, I pull from the top.
- Pull out mouthpiece, take off hologram.
- Grab a dabber and run it along all the edges to get a handful of really really good and tasty and personally for me gets me super stoned.. reclaim. Honestly though, its best reclaim from any my vapes, idk what it is. There are a handful of spots where reclaim accumulates, near the mouthpiece (in it too sometimes), and in the "open" part of the CU on the sides. Also along the bottom and in some nooks on the bottom part. You'll see reclaim thoug, so just scoop :D
- I pop my screen out, and set it with the hologram. Those don't get ISO. Just my preference. My screens not really that dirty, I just change it when needed.
- Put all other pieces in the container. I leave the rings on. I put a lid on the container, and I turn my sink on really really hot. Burning my hands hot. I wear this oven glove I got and just hold the tupperware under the hot water, it gets hot, the tupperware isn't that thick. Not super hot but enough that with some semi vigorous shaking, everything is basically clean in under 5 minutes.
- Dump the Iso, or keep w/e. Rinse everything with hot water, let it dry. Reassemble. I like running a load with no weed and just pumping hot air through it to accelerate drying, but it needs to be mostly dry at this point because you don't want water in heater.

Hope this helps my man!
 
HellsWindStaff,
  • Like
Reactions: Chill Dude

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
For the screen, use the little poker on the bottom to wedge it in the groove. works like a charm

This is how I clean my CU:

- Tupperware container I fill with ISO.
- I unlock the unit, preferably after using it or just getting some hot air so it pulls apart easily. Pull it apart holding the base, I pull from the top.
- Pull out mouthpiece, take off hologram.
- Grab a dabber and run it along all the edges to get a handful of really really good and tasty and personally for me gets me super stoned.. reclaim. Honestly though, its best reclaim from any my vapes, idk what it is. There are a handful of spots where reclaim accumulates, near the mouthpiece (in it too sometimes), and in the "open" part of the CU on the sides. Also along the bottom and in some nooks on the bottom part. You'll see reclaim thoug, so just scoop :D
- I pop my screen out, and set it with the hologram. Those don't get ISO. Just my preference. My screens not really that dirty, I just change it when needed.
- Put all other pieces in the container. I leave the rings on. I put a lid on the container, and I turn my sink on really really hot. Burning my hands hot. I wear this oven glove I got and just hold the tupperware under the hot water, it gets hot, the tupperware isn't that thick. Not super hot but enough that with some semi vigorous shaking, everything is basically clean in under 5 minutes.
- Dump the Iso, or keep w/e. Rinse everything with hot water, let it dry. Reassemble. I like running a load with no weed and just pumping hot air through it to accelerate drying, but it needs to be mostly dry at this point because you don't want water in heater.

Hope this helps my man!

Yes it does. Like I said the cleaning is reasonably easy. What's difficult for me is disassembling the cooling unit. It seems like everything just fits too tight. I have broken off small pieces of plastic just trying to take apart the hologram piece and opening up the cooling unit itself..sometimes I have to pry it open with a screwdriver..Way too tight of fit IMO...
 
Chill Dude,

skyvaper

Well-Known Member
Im going on almost a year dealing with cooling units. When i did remove the hologram there was nothing to clean so I stopped doing it. It may be easier to take apart the CU after a session at max temp (are you wiggling back and forth and not trying to pull straight apart?) which also greatly reduces how long you need to soak as well.
 
skyvaper,

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
Im going on almost a year dealing with cooling units. When i did remove the hologram there was nothing to clean so I stopped doing it. It may be easier to take apart the CU after a session at max temp (are you wiggling back and forth and not trying to pull straight apart?) which also greatly reduces how long you need to soak as well.

I'm pulling it straight up like it says in the manual. It takes many attempts and a lot of pressure so when it does finally come off I've already broken off some small plastic pieces.. I never tried after heating. Maybe that's the trick. It just seems that they could have designed it with a snug fit, but not a ridiculously tight fit..
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
It's so much easier to take the CU apart when it's just been used and is warm. After it cools, it can be like glue, however IMHO is only due to not cleaning it regularly enough. With frequent cleanings, it's a non-issue and comes apart easy for me, or at least the 5 CU's that's i've used.
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I'm pulling it straight up like it says in the manual. It takes many attempts and a lot of pressure so when it does finally come off I've already broken off some small plastic pieces.. I never tried after heating. Maybe that's the trick. It just seems that they could have designed it with a snug fit, but not a ridiculously tight fit..
You can drop the whole thing (even better warm) in iso to loosen up the sticky and it might pull apart more easily. Drawback is that it spoils some reclaim, no big deal.

I usually unlock, then push real hard on the small oval that's just become disengaged from the locking tab to get it started.

I agree that regular cleaning leads to happier vape and vaper.
 

esoh

Well-Known Member
i dry-clean my CU every 30 bowls or so. I just vape a full session at 410, pop it open right after I finish and use a toothpick to scrape out all the plant matter, replace/clean my CU screen, and when i'm done the draw resistance is back to nearly out-the-box levels.

maybe once every few months i'll do a thorough cleaning of the entire CU including mouthpiece and O-rings.
 
esoh,

vapviking

Old & In the Way
http://a66.tinypic.com/35a42uh.jpg
http://a65.tinypic.com/200e1xz.jpg
http://a63.tinypic.com/34sgyyp.jpg
http://a67.tinypic.com/v4w55h.jpg

Hello Folks
This is my new purchase, it's called Easy Flow. The plastic piece fits quiet well the female mouthpiece. You just need to use it a few times to fit it perfectly...
Thanks for the great photos! It appears that the glass goes all the way through the plastic "screw" fitting and directly touches/seals onto the vaporizer. I like that aspect a lot. Am I seeing that correctly?

Looks like it has a screen? I think it was @grokit who reported that he put a Mighty oil pad (thicker screen) in there to close a gap?
I think this is the one that has to be used carefully so as to not over-tighten and risk breaking the vape's housing. Other than that, my bigger problem is reasonable availability in US. Anyone find it yet?
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Does S&B charge $90 to replace Mighty batteries that aren't covered by warranty (in the U.S.)?
 
Mr. Me2,

uhranium

Well-Known Member
I'm on my 2nd cable now, and I did not send my first one in yet, but at least my batteries are save :)
 
uhranium,

Rayvon

Well-Known Member
I got my replacement unit today and I am very happy with it this time around.
There was a problem with the first one not heating up properly, this one makes a nice thick vapour, just as I was told.

Thanks folks for the advice, am now a happy chappy !
 

mitchgo61

I go where the thrills are
We have achieved the American Dream...we are now a two-Mighty household. :lol:

I grabbed a Black Friday deal and got a new Mighty for 320. (My first only cost me 295, long story...but I've definitely gotten good deals on both.)

It is indeed one of the newest ones....a SN in the 30,000s, reinforced housing, two minute shut-off timer, a nice overshoot when hitting target temps. Looking forward to some comparing/contrasting with my older unit. Hey, I can multi-task...I have two hands! :rofl:
 

organic weed

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the great photos! It appears that the glass goes all the way through the plastic "screw" fitting and directly touches/seals onto the vaporizer. I like that aspect a lot. Am I seeing that correctly?

Looks like it has a screen? I think it was @grokit who reported that he put a Mighty oil pad (thicker screen) in there to close a gap?
I think this is the one that has to be used carefully so as to not over-tighten and risk breaking the vape's housing. Other than that, my bigger problem is reasonable availability in US. Anyone find it yet?


That's correct. The glass touches the seal. It does not close 100% so it's important not to over tight it but after a few times it looses up...

@biohacker it sounds like u have been trying basically nearly all best vape around... Mighty, Plenty, Vrip etc... Which one do you think is the best and how does the Mighty compare to it? I know every vape has its pros and cons but in terms of vapor quality, which one has the cleanest and best vape among all and how does the Mighty score in relation to them/it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
hey bro, that's a tough one because there are so many quality vapes like you mentioned, but they are each incredible for different needs. For instance, I think the Vriptech is the cleanest and best tasting convection vape out there, but it's super fragile and thus eliminates alot of the customer base. For me personally, at this time my favourite overall is the Mighty!

Definitely look into the Herborizer thread..... seems to be up your alley!
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Tx for the care man. I did clean my oven upside down and did a few min of burnoff after just in case.

@biohacker It is not a toxic formalxxx compound. Here is the complete explanation http://www.davidsuzuki.org/what-you...s-mr-clean-magic-eraser-contain-formaldehyde/
It's all good BUT the bottom screen is extremely easy to remove is you press down on the outer ring.

The screen will pop up from the corner you can remove and either soak or burn the screen, wipe out the bottom of the heating unit

when it's time to reinsert the screen bend it into a slight dome shape, place the screen dome side up in the heating unit and use the orange tool to push it flat, it will perfectly seat the screen without damage.

It might seem unnecessary, but it is useful, sometimes the bottom air holes get clogged with plant dust.
 

Chill Dude

Well-Known Member
when it's time to reinsert the screen bend it into a slight dome shape, place the screen dome side up in the heating unit and use the orange tool to push it flat, it will perfectly seat the screen without damage.

At first I thought that orange tool was kind of stupid, but now I'm using it for a lot of things. Pushing down the bowl screen(as you said), removing screens, help with dumping ABV from the bowl when it's packed too tight,...and so on.

I also love that clear plastic cup in the loading tool. It's perfect for tamping down the herb in the bowl when you want to pack it tightly for maximum capacity. It fits in the bowl perfectly...
 

mitchgo61

I go where the thrills are
At first I thought that orange tool was kind of stupid, but now I'm using it for a lot of things. Pushing down the bowl screen(as you said), removing screens, help with dumping ABV from the bowl when it's packed too tight,...and so on.

I also love that clear plastic cup in the loading tool. It's perfect for tamping down the herb in the bowl when you want to pack it tightly for maximum capacity. It fits in the bowl perfectly...

The loading tool is kind of ingenious.

The orange pick is, for some reason, the only damned thing I can lay my hands on that will easily get under the large o-ring. I literally cannot remove it without the orange pick! :bang:
 

uhranium

Well-Known Member
Boy. I'm heavily stoned. Out of Weed and I find like 0.05g on the floor of my vape-mainbase and vaped 3 puffs of it with rebreathing through a bag, then reclaimed it and took another bag puff.. I paid like 10cent for a 5$ high. classic.


I lost my orange tool, def need to get 5 new ones.
 
uhranium,

AKFiRe

"Cannabis has NO medical value" F$*K YOU!!
I pressed a bunch of rosen from kief today! (Love me some solvent-less) has anyone used concentrates without making an herb sandwich? The liquid pad is not supposed to sit on the bottom of the bowl is it? If so I am afraid I will have to rip it apart, strand by strand, because that fucker is tight!!
 
AKFiRe,

CL52613

Well-Known Member
It would not surprise me if the German engineers built in a way to get a "more complete picture"! Your explanation is plausible, to this layman.
Has anyone had direct communication with the manufacturer specifically about charge cycles in a Mighty? Can we confirm whether they even have this capability?

@elmomuzz, I cut apart my muzzmod that had epoxy (jenn weld, original) failure (I'll call it that for now). I was very surprised to see oil completely covering the flat mating surfaces of the glass and plastic. The joint between them was just afloat in oil, like some kind of capillary action draws it in there. I had taken care to get the surfaces to match, even though these are not the actual glue surfaces. The oil found its way under, then a small opening (epoxy had 'peeled away' from glass) and leaked out.

I know there's been discussion about the use of epoxy and it's been stated that the epoxy is not in the vapor path. My observation is that, on this one piece, there is definite interplay/touching of material in vapor path with the epoxy bead. I'm not calling this a real danger zone (yet), but it clearly was not a prisitine buffer zone between the vapor path and the epoxy. Maybe this is only in my trial. Though at least one other member has discussed the oil kinda getting the better of the epoxy my read is, still, that expansion/contraction between the plastic, glass and epoxy is beyond tolerable for the glue to stand up. The epoxy can handle the heat, but not the movement.
I was able to scrape & completely clean the glass adapter, so I could try again.
But I may just pickup one of the several Mighty adapters on the market that don't employ adhesives.

In my humble, negatively biased opinion, S&B is full of BS when it comes to the batteries and their condition. The hole in wall repair center in Oakland, Ca; (check it out on Google maps); most likely just checks battery condition with a simple battery tester. Their information on my batteries was totally out of whack. And if I am to guess anyone that was told about their weak or bad batteries were told in supposed hours used not charging cycles. Why would S&B give a rat's behind about the battery or batteries life history? They are not covered under the warranty, if they were than they would have to publish the expected life of the battery. Sorry to rant but S&B being a German company is not the endorsement most lay people believe.
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
I pressed a bunch of rosen from kief today! (Love me some solvent-less) has anyone used concentrates without making an herb sandwich? The liquid pad is not supposed to sit on the bottom of the bowl is it? If so I am afraid I will have to rip it apart, strand by strand, because that fucker is tight!!

I stopped using the liquid pad for concentrates for the same reason...it's also possible that you used too much. If it's so stuck, it's probably best to heat it back up and it should come out easily, but you may have a bit of a job to clean everything back up. I also noticed that the pad would scratch the sides of the bowl and the concentrate would stain those scratches.

Now I use the pad for smaller efficient loads only, but i'm also not really into concentrates anymore.
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
In my humble, negatively biased opinion, S&B is full of BS when it comes to the batteries and their condition. The hole in wall repair center in Oakland, Ca; (check it out on Google maps); most likely just checks battery condition with a simple battery tester. Their information on my batteries was totally out of whack. And if I am to guess anyone that was told about their weak or bad batteries were told in supposed hours used not charging cycles. Why would S&B give a rat's behind about the battery or batteries life history? They are not covered under the warranty, if they were than they would have to publish the expected life of the battery. Sorry to rant but S&B being a German company is not the endorsement most lay people believe.

Your guess is incorrect. I was told (approx. Aug '15) over the phone by a S&B America rep that my Crafty had exceeded the battery manufacturer's specified lifetime number of expected charge cycles. He said my Crafty had over 900 charge cycles on it, and the 'allowance' is (bad memory) 8XX. I've posted about this multiple times in Crafty and Mighty threads. (for the record, I don't believe that their count was correct). I paid for a "new battery".

Now @Stinky tells of an 80 hr device-use limit on the Crafty battery....are they trying a new tack?

I think S&B needs to give some degree of attention to battery life and wear, if only for their own data and in the interest of improving product. Additionally, how could they deal with a customer whose battery crapped out in the first week? "Sorry, we don't give a rat's ass!" That would surely not fly.

At the heart of the matter, I tend to agree with you, and endorse your right to rant on about the product and about your experience with it and the service. S&B, and others, need to get a better handle on the nexus between the tech and the user's money. Battery policy is a big weak area.

(For the record, I was not 'endorsing' a 'German company'. You chose to couch it that way to take a swipe at them. I was alluding to the general well established prowess of German engineers.)
 
vapviking,
  • Like
Reactions: ataxian
Top Bottom