thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
he cut me off
, last thing I told him was I have like 10 custom tools of his that sit in a drawer somewhere, at the time he said hes gonna work on putting more up on his site - not his etsy account.
The HighLighter (Glass-Core Open-Source Halogen Log) Kit Hosted by REFC Labs
- Thread starter RedEyeFlightControl
- Start date
, last thing I told him was I have like 10 custom tools of his that sit in a drawer somewhere, at the time he said hes gonna work on putting more up on his site - not his etsy account.
CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
I messaged him through his website, still no reply.
@Ernielicous are you saying instead of the beads that came with the kit, you used ruby instead? And you wrapped the whole HighLighter in foil? (of course leaving the ends open)
@Ernielicous are you saying instead of the beads that came with the kit, you used ruby instead? And you wrapped the whole HighLighter in foil? (of course leaving the ends open)
badbee
Well-Known Member
Will it be warning me of chem trails next
Do you find the body gets much hotter this way? Can you still handle it with bare fingers?
Ernielicous
Well-Known Member
Heres a video i did. I was still able to grab it with my bare fingers, so it doesnt get too hot. Its also still very tasty!
CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
Ok, @Ernielicous is definitely right about adding the foil...I was able to go down almost a whole volt. At the moment it's sitting at 5.2v and ripping nicely. The previous night with no foil, I had to go above 6v to get good rips. I probably have to go a little higher because my bulb is sitting a little back since I used an 18mm male joint to measure how far to push the preformed screen up to. Hindsight I should've pushed as far as I could since I don't use the basket screen; I use the WPA bowl from my LSV and I love it since I can get multiple hits from one pack.
Out of curiosity, was there a reason that an 18mm female joint was chosen over using an 18mm male joint? I was just thinking that a basket screen can be put onto the end of the 18mm male joint instead of using formed screens, allowing for the bulb to get closer to the whatever bowl.
androponic
vaped.
i think it is due to the required inner diameter to make it. like an 18mm stem for a rbt splinter the tube is much smaller and wouldnt have a large enough diameter to use the bulb/socket and surround with beads. the included installation tool shows the big difference in tubing inner diameters between male and female jointed tubes. at least with off the shelf glass, anything can be done custom but the goal here was cost too i believe
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As promised, here's a pic of the bulb from my OG core (from the bocote shield). I said I'd show it when the bulb when bad - which is not the case here. I pulled it apart for inspection and to swap to a proforma screen (this guy still had an early rev screen in it and no bead-retention safety wires, so I wanted to add those while re-tuning the core for this new wand).
As you can see, there are no visible tungsten deposits on the interior of the lamp, which seems to confirm the fact that we're running down in the filament sputter zone at our desired voltage. There is some visible vapor deposition on the ceramic base, which is expected discoloration. This will vary based on how much vapor you backflow into your core (more common on wet pieces without carbs). The o-rings look great. No dry rot or change in plasticity as far as I can tell. - It should be noted that checking and/or replacing o-rings should be a semi-annual maintenance item. I believe this maintenance item is in already in the docu.
Other than the new screen and retention wire (and one less #111 o-ring), I re-packed it all and its original glass guts back up for some more steaming hot action. I'll still let you guys know when the bulb goes
As you can see, there are no visible tungsten deposits on the interior of the lamp, which seems to confirm the fact that we're running down in the filament sputter zone at our desired voltage. There is some visible vapor deposition on the ceramic base, which is expected discoloration. This will vary based on how much vapor you backflow into your core (more common on wet pieces without carbs). The o-rings look great. No dry rot or change in plasticity as far as I can tell. - It should be noted that checking and/or replacing o-rings should be a semi-annual maintenance item. I believe this maintenance item is in already in the docu.
Other than the new screen and retention wire (and one less #111 o-ring), I re-packed it all and its original glass guts back up for some more steaming hot action. I'll still let you guys know when the bulb goes
The group really liked the idea of a female heater. Most similar heaters are male injectors which makes ours a bit more unique. I like the idea of a female "outjector" (I know Keth is rolling his eyes at me for that one). The male joints didn't have the room we needed for our mass, anyway. Those who know me know I'm a LSV freak, and one of the reasons it earns my high praise is its 18mm fm joint, for this exact reason. The stock wand/installation tool can be used as pictured, but I'm a fan of these dry wands and even stock them as accessories for the HLT and LSV.
CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
I think I know why I didn't hear back from the rogue wax works....the handles are no longer shown on his site. I sent him a DM about the handles on IG, lets see if he replies.
Kudzu407
Para-Vaper
I was in contact with him Fri. He will be out until mid week so give him a couple more days to get back.
yes, the foil is super helpful. do we have an exact count of 3mm beads ? im not the biggest fan of the incendiary light. harsh in a mellow dim atmosphere so still looking for log and holder ideas . how are we doing on flavor ? seems even at lower temps not tasty . i am using the basket screen .
masonjars
Well-Known Member
That's odd, because at lower temps I get much better flavor (with a basket screen). Could it possibly be what you're putting in the basket?
CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
At 5.2v to 5.5v I'm getting great flavor.
CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
No char on my ABV...you might be slightly combusting.
That low, huh? wow!
If you're running foil at 6+v you're probably combusting. The standard voltage suggestions are for a naked, lossy core. Adding insulation will reduce the required voltage.
7g is approx 197 beads. I include 7.15-7.2g in the kits. 7.0 on the low side, 7.2 on the high side, typically, with just a few exceptions.
The beads are approx. .045g ea IIRC - I'd have to double check my notes.
oldfool
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing 250, maybe a bit more.
Mine ain't pretty but it's cheap.
Hope to replace it with something nice when I can.
Seems tasty to me at 5.4V
Back is business.
I've been there for a couple of weeks.
Just measured and my power supply is running at 109 degrees F at 5.49V.
Just warm to the touch.
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CrazyDiamond
Spirit of the Dark Horse
@RedEyeFlightControl in a previous post, no foil, I had to go to between 6.2v and 6.5v to get anything. With the foil, drop a volt and I'm good.
masonjars
Well-Known Member
I was messing around a bit yesterday with some household aluminum foil and combusting at around 5.8.
Just this afternoon I got some 0.07mm thick stainless steel 304 sheet foil and cut a strip to line the balled section and have been getting similar performance (an overall drop of 1v or more) as the outer-wrap of kitchen foil experiment yesterday.
Here’s a one-hit extraction at 5.36v with the ss304 foil strip of some not-too-dry/not-too-moist flower (some old pinkman goo) It hits like it does around 6.66v without any foil or heat shield.
I have a quick and important update to share.
The good news - I finally received the backordered DC Jacks that has delayed drops for the past 2 weeks.
The bad news - they are hot garbage (quite literally) and I can't/won't sell them and must advise steering away from KASTAR jacks until further notice.
I'm working on a last minute part update so I can roll out some kits. This may affect the price by 5-10 dollars. I'm hoping the impact is minimal.
Look at this...
And then this...
I'm livid over waiting so long for this garbage.
For those acquiring their own plugs - test test test! These are the same brand as before. I have better DC jacks en route and am expecting to be back in action as soon as they show up and pass testing.
I let the MFG know about these and advised a recall over such degraded and risky quality. More to follow. Stay lofty, and stay safe, frients.
The good news - I finally received the backordered DC Jacks that has delayed drops for the past 2 weeks.
The bad news - they are hot garbage (quite literally) and I can't/won't sell them and must advise steering away from KASTAR jacks until further notice.
I'm working on a last minute part update so I can roll out some kits. This may affect the price by 5-10 dollars. I'm hoping the impact is minimal.
Look at this...
And then this...
I'm livid over waiting so long for this garbage.
For those acquiring their own plugs - test test test! These are the same brand as before. I have better DC jacks en route and am expecting to be back in action as soon as they show up and pass testing.
I let the MFG know about these and advised a recall over such degraded and risky quality. More to follow. Stay lofty, and stay safe, frients.
Trackrat
Well-Known Member
Thanks Red, for watching out for our safety.
Update on the plugs. I heard back from my supplier.
They have acknowledged the problem and have promised to replace with like kind and quality from previous batches. ETA 3-4 weeks, again.
In the mean time - what this means for you folks:
I rush-ordered some higher quality dc jacks that are rated to 10a 30v (sample below). These should be plenty sufficient and are what I use in the heat shields. They are a good quality plug. I will be including these with the next few rounds of kits -so you will get a good plug, and a 2-port terminal block to connect this to the core. These will come with a bit of shrink tube to clean up the wiring. Kit cost will likely be around 75$ for the few bucks in upgraded/sidegraded parts. It's the best I can do at short notice and I know folks are dyin' for more of these. This parts change should not significantly complicate the build, nor cause a significant price increase. While it isn't the most ideal solution, it remains true to being modular and replaceable.
I prefer the molded plugs for kits, but I more prefer safety
I'm hoping to have the parts in a few days so this weekends planned drop needs to be on hold until I have confidence in the parts AND parts that are here.
Stay lifted,
Red
They have acknowledged the problem and have promised to replace with like kind and quality from previous batches. ETA 3-4 weeks, again.
In the mean time - what this means for you folks:
I rush-ordered some higher quality dc jacks that are rated to 10a 30v (sample below). These should be plenty sufficient and are what I use in the heat shields. They are a good quality plug. I will be including these with the next few rounds of kits -so you will get a good plug, and a 2-port terminal block to connect this to the core. These will come with a bit of shrink tube to clean up the wiring. Kit cost will likely be around 75$ for the few bucks in upgraded/sidegraded parts. It's the best I can do at short notice and I know folks are dyin' for more of these. This parts change should not significantly complicate the build, nor cause a significant price increase. While it isn't the most ideal solution, it remains true to being modular and replaceable.
I prefer the molded plugs for kits, but I more prefer safety
I'm hoping to have the parts in a few days so this weekends planned drop needs to be on hold until I have confidence in the parts AND parts that are here.
Stay lifted,
Red
Any chance you can add the source on the highlighter BOM sheet?Update on the plugs. I heard back from my supplier.
They have acknowledged the problem and have promised to replace with like kind and quality from previous batches. ETA 3-4 weeks, again.
In the mean time - what this means for you folks:
I rush-ordered some higher quality dc jacks that are rated to 10a 30v (sample below). These should be plenty sufficient and are what I use in the heat shields. They are a good quality plug. I will be including these with the next few rounds of kits -so you will get a good plug, and a 2-port terminal block to connect this to the core. These will come with a bit of shrink tube to clean up the wiring. Kit cost will likely be around 75$ for the few bucks in upgraded/sidegraded parts. It's the best I can do at short notice and I know folks are dyin' for more of these. This parts change should not significantly complicate the build, nor cause a significant price increase. While it isn't the most ideal solution, it remains true to being modular and replaceable.
I prefer the molded plugs for kits, but I more prefer safety
I'm hoping to have the parts in a few days so this weekends planned drop needs to be on hold until I have confidence in the parts AND parts that are here.
View attachment 11196
Stay lifted,
Red
Done and done.
I'll be using these until my supplier returns with the originally spec'd parts. As expected they pass testing with no issues.
We're back in business
I finally got around to trying out my highlighter kit yesterday and this thing slaps! Effortless clouds, smooth, and good flavor too. Now I gotta get some kind of handle for it, I may pick up one from @RogueGuy. The top half of the core doesn't get very warm and I can handle it pretty easily with bare hands, but it would be nice to have something more substantial to hold onto. Thanks Red!