Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Nice write up, so these were all the same size, the standard original smaller log 7/16? Am I correct that The other size is the larger, or is it other way around you got all larges??
Nice write up, so these were all the same size, the standard original smaller log 7/16? Am I correct that The other size is the larger, or is it other way around you got all larges??
Vapefanatic
Well-Known Member
All large
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ah okay that is what I thought at first, then I don't know why and ended up thinking 7/16 was my size lol thank you, getting one of these when my name comes up again!
vaporoufixtras
sigma vape enjoyer
My HIs and iHeat finally arrived. Been a little busy to try them all at once. Besides, I don't think I have that great a tolerance to attempt it anyways lol. Gonna take my time. They look fabulous though.
@Vapefanatic Quick question - can the wooden stem on the iHeat be used with the HI or does it not provide enough cooling? And also does it come with the glass insert and is it removable (the insert)?
Thanks!
Vapefanatic
Well-Known Member
Both my stems are interchangeable. They both come with a 3 slit glass insert that is removable.
Thanks for posting the photos and the review @Vapefanatic
Looks like you have your hands full with lots of herbal roasters. So many different ways to roast.
Thanks for posting the videos @GoldenBud
Those are some nice clouds.
Here is a unit I recently made for myself. Have been wanting to try it for a while now. Wanted to see if a HI could be made from almost anything.
Works just like a regular HI. The paper hardly gets warm. The base is 3/4" thick oak turned round to match the paper tube. The heater cover is connected to the top and the power socket installed inside the wood. The paper sleeve just slides on/off. The power plug sticks through the paper sleeve to hold it in place. It is like an empty canvas waiting to be painted.
Looks like you have your hands full with lots of herbal roasters. So many different ways to roast.
Thanks for posting the videos @GoldenBud
Those are some nice clouds.
Here is a unit I recently made for myself. Have been wanting to try it for a while now. Wanted to see if a HI could be made from almost anything.
Works just like a regular HI. The paper hardly gets warm. The base is 3/4" thick oak turned round to match the paper tube. The heater cover is connected to the top and the power socket installed inside the wood. The paper sleeve just slides on/off. The power plug sticks through the paper sleeve to hold it in place. It is like an empty canvas waiting to be painted.
There has been a lot of talk lately about having more core mass to smooth out the temperature fluctuation of the core from drawing air through it. I wanted to see if it was true or not, so I built a special heater cover what contained a second ss clip ring to hold a 1" tall stack of ss washers to get the maximum core mass possible. The stack is located above the air intake slits, so the mass is still on the island of heat. It took forever to get up to temperature as compared to the plain heater cover. I was still able to draw the temperature down with a good draw, which then took longer to recover because there is more mass to heat. From my testing, the less mass the heater cover has, the better it performs. The recovery time is faster since there is less mass to heat. That is the whole reason why Heat Island Technology took log style herbal roasters from a 50 minute heat up time to only 5 minutes.
The recovery / heat up time is dependent upon the heat transfer rate from the heater to the cover. With the heater centered in the cover, the only mode of heat transfer available is radiant, which is the slowest of the three modes. If the heat transfer could be conductive, it would be the fastest.
I figured out a way to make the heat transfer primarily conductive and increase the available surface area at the same time.
Started with some 6mm basket screens and then reamed a hole in the bottom to make them look like tiny lamp shades that just fit over the cartridge heater. Five screens fit nicely and create a torturous air path where it must pass through each hot screen. The heater stays centered in the cover for even air flow around it. There is never a rattle since the heater is held in the center with the screens. It performs exceptionally well.
Here is how it looks.
It only fits in the 7/16" ss and 12mm glass heater covers.
I have also started including a 7/16" ss clip ring on the 7/16" ss heater covers similar to what I do on the 3/8" ss heater covers.
Another thing I have been doing is installing a silicone sleeve on the roasting end of my 16mm glass on 14mm GonG tubes which provides a perfect air tight seal, with the roasting still in glass. The best of both styles.
The recovery / heat up time is dependent upon the heat transfer rate from the heater to the cover. With the heater centered in the cover, the only mode of heat transfer available is radiant, which is the slowest of the three modes. If the heat transfer could be conductive, it would be the fastest.
I figured out a way to make the heat transfer primarily conductive and increase the available surface area at the same time.
Started with some 6mm basket screens and then reamed a hole in the bottom to make them look like tiny lamp shades that just fit over the cartridge heater. Five screens fit nicely and create a torturous air path where it must pass through each hot screen. The heater stays centered in the cover for even air flow around it. There is never a rattle since the heater is held in the center with the screens. It performs exceptionally well.
Here is how it looks.
It only fits in the 7/16" ss and 12mm glass heater covers.
I have also started including a 7/16" ss clip ring on the 7/16" ss heater covers similar to what I do on the 3/8" ss heater covers.
Another thing I have been doing is installing a silicone sleeve on the roasting end of my 16mm glass on 14mm GonG tubes which provides a perfect air tight seal, with the roasting still in glass. The best of both styles.
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
Have you considered using copper mesh or fine copper wire instead of SS for the metal mass?
How are you coming on sourcing bamboo for log vapes? Would you consider making a batch using heavy duty cardboard tubes, possibly painted?
I would really like to see some pictures from people using the different stems. There are so many options and I don't fully understand how some of them work. Like the glass nipple, that looks like the ball part of a ball and socket joint - what is that for?
I have really gotten a lot of use out of my "glass one hitter" that I made after you sent me a bunch of stems and parts. The only trouble I have with it is having to make the basket screens by hand but I think I can make a form out of stacked washers and a clamp - tighten the clamp down to push the flat screen into a basket shape. However I was wondering - would it be possible to make a cork joint for a 1/2" stem with a 3/8" tip? Then I could drop a flat 1/2" screen in, put in the 1/2" stem to hold it in place, and stick the 3/8" tip (as short as possible) on top. You can also do that with a piece of silicone tubing but its way harder - the 1/2" screens are slightly larger than the HI 1/2" stem OD, at least the ones with the thin walls. They should fit fine on the lip of a thick walled 1/2" stem, they do on the ones I have. But the screen slides around - I think a cork joint might be easier to deal with the screen. Thankfully you don't have to change flat screens nearly as often as you do basket screens, they just don't clog as much or as easily (or as quickly). The 1/2" stem part should probably be the thick walled sort or the screen won't fit (since the screen diameter is slightly larger than the OD of the thin walled stems).
You would have to drill through the cork for the 3/8" stem OD, then partially drill again for the 1/2" stem. Don't know if you can do a flat bottomed hole (like with a Forstner bit) on cork, even if its frozen - do you think its possible? Or more trouble than its worth?
I have silicone tips on all my glass stems now. I don't see a huge difference with the glass one-hitter, but with my larger glass stems - the regular 1/2" and the large glass stems for the Underdog Alpha - I see a lot less tunneling and hot-spotting. The larger the ID of the stem, the more effective the air-lock (silicone tip) on reducing hot spots.
How are you coming on sourcing bamboo for log vapes? Would you consider making a batch using heavy duty cardboard tubes, possibly painted?
I would really like to see some pictures from people using the different stems. There are so many options and I don't fully understand how some of them work. Like the glass nipple, that looks like the ball part of a ball and socket joint - what is that for?
I have really gotten a lot of use out of my "glass one hitter" that I made after you sent me a bunch of stems and parts. The only trouble I have with it is having to make the basket screens by hand but I think I can make a form out of stacked washers and a clamp - tighten the clamp down to push the flat screen into a basket shape. However I was wondering - would it be possible to make a cork joint for a 1/2" stem with a 3/8" tip? Then I could drop a flat 1/2" screen in, put in the 1/2" stem to hold it in place, and stick the 3/8" tip (as short as possible) on top. You can also do that with a piece of silicone tubing but its way harder - the 1/2" screens are slightly larger than the HI 1/2" stem OD, at least the ones with the thin walls. They should fit fine on the lip of a thick walled 1/2" stem, they do on the ones I have. But the screen slides around - I think a cork joint might be easier to deal with the screen. Thankfully you don't have to change flat screens nearly as often as you do basket screens, they just don't clog as much or as easily (or as quickly). The 1/2" stem part should probably be the thick walled sort or the screen won't fit (since the screen diameter is slightly larger than the OD of the thin walled stems).
You would have to drill through the cork for the 3/8" stem OD, then partially drill again for the 1/2" stem. Don't know if you can do a flat bottomed hole (like with a Forstner bit) on cork, even if its frozen - do you think its possible? Or more trouble than its worth?
I have silicone tips on all my glass stems now. I don't see a huge difference with the glass one-hitter, but with my larger glass stems - the regular 1/2" and the large glass stems for the Underdog Alpha - I see a lot less tunneling and hot-spotting. The larger the ID of the stem, the more effective the air-lock (silicone tip) on reducing hot spots.
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I would really like to use gold mesh or wool for the metal mass, as it should have no impact on the taste and will conduct heat quite well. Not sure where I would find something like that.
Working on a batch of bamboo suction cups with the bottoms cut out. They were already the right length, so I didn't have to cut them. The inside diameter is within the range of the cork rings I can get and it is fairly round in shape, which will make installing the cork rings easier. They have been treated to resist cracking, so they should last a long time.
I would consider making a batch from heavy duty cardboard tubes. Painting them is certainly an option. They could really be personalized.
The 10mm glass nipple fits to a 3/8" ss heater cover like a ball and socket joint, which allows you to change the angle to allow more or less room air to leak in to reduce the roasting temperature. The 10mm glass nipple fits into the end of the 7/16" ss heater cover similar to how the ss roasting tubes fit. There is an 8mm basket screen inside the glass nipple that can be positioned anywhere within the tube. The end of a 3" long 10mm glass tube can be shaped to function the same way. The roasting is in glass rather than in stainless steel.
Glad to hear you have been enjoying your "glass one hitter". There are so many different ways to put roasting tubes together. It is fun to discover new ways of roasting. It is certainly possible to make a cork connector with a 1/2" hole in one end and a 3/8" hole in the other. The only problem I have found with using ss tube in cork is that it gets so hot that the cork doesn't want to hold onto it, especially if the ss tube is very short.
The silicone tips are a nice way to get only hot air through the material. With the silicone providing a seal, I am able to hold the HI at an angle to the roasting tube so that the hot air sort of hits the sides of the roasting bowl. That also helps with even roasting.
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
Oh I would want only glass stems in the modified cork holder. My glass one hitter right now is a 3" long 3/8" OD glass stem that I took of something or other that you sent me (I can't remember, I should have taken pictures before I started taking stuff apart LOL!) connected to one of your thin-walled 4" long 1/2" glass stems. This only very rarely even starts to get hot - but someone who is a harder hitter than I am might want the thicker walled 1/2" glass stem for the lower half, as the mass is probably close to twice that of the thinner walled version.
My goal is to be able to use 1/2" flat screens with the glass one hitter, instead of having to make the basket screens. The 1/2" basket screens are too large for it and the small basket screens from Underdog that they make for their SS one hitter are just that side of too small. So I have to make them myself and being as they are so small it's a fiddly business. I'm not sure how well they will turn out if I can make a "form" out of stacked washers but it has got to be easier than making each one individually by hand - but easier still would be dropping a flat 1/2" screen into the cork joint, LOL!
Since I've been able to use flat screens I have found they require no more than brushing off after dumping the ABV. The basket screens collect stuff at the sides and when they clog, they clog badly. With the regular stems of 1/2" OD or more (the Alpha takes a 3/4" OD glass stem) its not THAT much trouble to pop them out, swoosh them in some rubbing alcohol, and shove them back in there - but the teensy screens for the 3/8" glass one hitter are a lot harder to deal with, perhaps partly because they are ragged hand made ones but that's what I've got. So I will try to make a form for making the teensy basket screens but having a flat screen option would certainly be attractive here.
I use my glass one hitter with the UD Alpha dog - but it works with regular heater cores also if you use a 3/8" silicone air lock on the tip. The silicone will seal around the heater core and the tip will rest atop the heater core rather than fitting inside like it does with the Alpha.
When I use the silicone air locks on the tips of my larger glass stems, I found myself kind of naturally rotating them around a bit as I draw and that has virtually eliminated hot spotting, which is quite severe with a UD Alpha dog using the glass stem sans air lock. Or it is for me - I am sure you can get similar effects turning the stem on the heater core while you draw and in fact I used to do that with my glass stems to reduce hot-spotting - but the motion with the silicone air lock on there is much more subtle, feels very natural - I didn't even notice I was doing it at first - and very nearly totally eliminates hot-spotting. That is coming from someone with virtually no "technique" so - I find that the silicone air lock thingy just makes everything a whole lot easier and less intrusive.
Now I just have to wait another month until I'm fully vaccinated so I can hit the local brew supply shop and get me a couple feet of heat-resistant food-grade silicone tubing in various sizes, LOL! I have a habit of losing little parts, and air locks and stem connectors are in that category. NEEDZ THA SPAREZ BEFORE I LOZEZ THEM PARTZ!
Walter Bishop
Well-Known Member
Recently received my second HI unit and a new micro voltage controller.
With my original set up (obtained back in 2016) the voltage is very steady. I keep it on 11.7 and it rarely jumps about.
With the new set up voltage will rapidly jump between 11.6-11.8 when I attempt to keep it at 11.7.
I've tested out a every configuration between my two set ups regarding all the power sources, wires, the HI units themselves, etc. What I can tell is that when I plug the new (2021) HI unit into my original (2016) voltage controller it holds steady at 11.7. But when plugged into the new (2021) voltage controller the rapid jumping is present. It seems to be the voltage controller itself. Confirmed that by plugging my older (2016) HI unit into the new (2021) controller as well, same result, rapid jumping between 11.6-11.8. No amount of fine adjusting of the dial seems to make this stop.
Two questions. Any one else experienced this? And does it actually matter?
With my original set up (obtained back in 2016) the voltage is very steady. I keep it on 11.7 and it rarely jumps about.
With the new set up voltage will rapidly jump between 11.6-11.8 when I attempt to keep it at 11.7.
I've tested out a every configuration between my two set ups regarding all the power sources, wires, the HI units themselves, etc. What I can tell is that when I plug the new (2021) HI unit into my original (2016) voltage controller it holds steady at 11.7. But when plugged into the new (2021) voltage controller the rapid jumping is present. It seems to be the voltage controller itself. Confirmed that by plugging my older (2016) HI unit into the new (2021) controller as well, same result, rapid jumping between 11.6-11.8. No amount of fine adjusting of the dial seems to make this stop.
Two questions. Any one else experienced this? And does it actually matter?
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
It only matters if it affects your vaping results, which doesn't seem to be the case. So it seems you have 2 different VVPS, one from 2016 and a new one this year (2021).
The most likely reason for what you are seeing is simply a difference in the way display voltage is calculated. It's fluctuating around the point where you set it (11.7). The other unit probably has similar fluctuations but the display isn't sensitive to low level fluctuations. The only reason to worry about it is if you can't get reliable vaping results.
If you are getting reliable vaping results just ignore the display once you've set it. I've got 2 different types of VVPS, an older Tekpower and a newer generic mini-VVPS that is privately branded and comes out of China. The display on the newer, generic VVPS goes to the hundredth decimal if under 10V, but its not accurate there and it does show that sort of fluctuation. It's just rounding up and down over minor fluctuations. My Tekpower also appears to fluctuate up and down at the .1 decimal place, between like 10.6/10.7.
If it really annoys you just get another VVPS, there are lots out there for under $40.
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Walter Bishop
Well-Known Member
Two seperate VVPS, but both of the same exact design, the one that Alan builds. The only difference is one is from 2016, and the new one from 2021.
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
And .... ? Doesn't matter, you are assuming there have been no changes in design in five years, no changes in part sourcing, and no changes in quality, design, and/or quality control at any of the factories sourcing said parts or materials to make said parts.
One display wiggles. One doesn't. Does it change the quality of the vape?
The circuit boards used are from a newer batch, which may not have used components as good as the previous batch. It is possible the circuit boards are made by multiple manufacturers using the same design.
I did experience this with one of my recent voltage controller builds. Tried a few things to remedy it. Turned the knob until the voltage was at the lowest level and then brought it back to 12 volts again. Then I adjusted the voltage without the HI plugged in until it read a voltage that didn't change. Sometimes it would read steady on the voltage until I plug into the HI. I got it to hold steady at 11.7.
It doesn't matter from a performance standpoint. It only matters from a standpoint of not having an annoying flash of number changes. Hope you can get it to hold steady on a voltage. May need to just play around with the adjustment potentiometer. Sort of like breaking it in.
Walter Bishop
Well-Known Member
I believe you're mistaken regarding what I assumed. The reason I specified the different years they were built was exactly what you just said. In the event the design or any parts had been changed, sourced from elsewhere, and/or functioned slightly different. Thanks.
Thanks for the detailed response Alan, I'll give that a whirl.
~vapeslut.xo~
Well-Known Member
my Heat Island is coming in 2 days, im very excited 
it will be my fifth vape.
1.) Mighty
2.) Dynavap
3.) Sticky Brick
4.) Elev8r (torch)
the SB i can't use through water, and the Elev8r can be slightly inconvenient to set up.
i am very much looking forward to a log!
(i'm sure the log will inspire the search for a perfect desktop, and VAS so it goes....
i hope i can finish this thread before tuesday!
cheerio
it will be my fifth vape.
1.) Mighty
2.) Dynavap
3.) Sticky Brick
4.) Elev8r (torch)
the SB i can't use through water, and the Elev8r can be slightly inconvenient to set up.
i am very much looking forward to a log!
(i'm sure the log will inspire the search for a perfect desktop, and VAS so it goes....
i hope i can finish this thread before tuesday!
cheerio
~vapeslut.xo~
Well-Known Member
writing this post in realtime!my Heat Island is coming in 2 days, im very excited
it will be my fifth vape.
1.) Mighty
2.) Dynavap
3.) Sticky Brick
4.) Elev8r (torch)
the SB i can't use through water, and the Elev8r can be slightly inconvenient to set up.
i am very much looking forward to a log!
(i'm sure the log will inspire the search for a perfect desktop, and VAS so it goes....
i hope i can finish this thread before tuesday!
cheerio
my Heat Island arrived a day early!
[10 minutes...]
opening it up now. the box is small!
wow. so many accessories.
HOLY COW! Log vapes are SO much smaller than i thought!
this is great because no room on my desk
all-in-all, everything only takes up the same amount of space, as my e-cig and it's charger!
wonderful
[30 minutes..]
well i have unpacked everything now!
the HI is so tiny and cute. its adorable.
it's small and cute but there's nothing cheap about it. Sturdy!
feels like you could drop it off a building and it wouldn't break, only bounce because its so light.
but so solid. The bamboo feels nice to touch
but that could be the edible kicking in 
all the glass tubes also feel very solid, you can handle them easily and it doesn't give you that
"oh-gosh-gotta-be-careful" feeling like my Elev8r gives me
light and sturdy.
[20 minutes...]
all plugged in, ready to go!
i spent some time re-reading the email Alan sent, because
i dont understand all these tubes. Alan explained it very well but im kinda dense.
so i took a picture:
here it is!
i named the tubes so there would be less confusion when referring to them.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
writing this post in realtime!
my Heat Island arrived a day early!
[10 minutes...]
opening it up now. the box is small!
wow. so many accessories.
HOLY COW! Log vapes are SO much smaller than i thought!
this is great because no room on my desk
all-in-all, everything only takes up the same amount of space, as my e-cig and it's charger!
wonderful
[30 minutes..]
well i have unpacked everything now!
the HI is so tiny and cute. its adorable.
it's small and cute but there's nothing cheap about it. Sturdy!
feels like you could drop it off a building and it wouldn't break, only bounce because its so light.
but so solid. The bamboo feels nice to touch
all the glass tubes also feel very solid, you can handle them easily and it doesn't give you that
"oh-gosh-gotta-be-careful" feeling like my Elev8r gives me
light and sturdy.
[20 minutes...]
all plugged in, ready to go!
i spent some time re-reading the email Alan sent, because
i dont understand all these tubes. Alan explained it very well but im kinda dense.
so i took a picture:
here it is!
i named the tubes so there would be less confusion when referring to them.
Haha yay! That's a nice shipping win for you, yeah everything is always so much tinier in person, blows me away every time even now still!
Nice job labeling those tubes, you'll have to do some investigating for the turbo and those slideabowl tubes, but the gong stem will be your most used at least easiest way to get started learning dry hits and through water! I don't like to put a stem on top of the HI, unless I have another basket screen sandwiching the load, so no herbs fall down, though the heating element is nicely protected regardless so it's not a big deal... I am pretty much always using my HI upside down, on J hooks if not through water though... That steel stem is going to be a beast through water, so be careful you don't have the power set too high or you might combust! Pace yourself (I know you won't lol) and enjoy!
~vapeslut.xo~
Well-Known Member
So, i have the temp at 12.5
have packed a small bowl and took many rips,
the ABV is still lighter than usual.
also it didn't necessarily hit that hard, through my Mobius.
i'm thinking i have a screen in wrong, or wrong technique...or something!
so far, the Heat Island definitely gets you high though. lmao
EDIT: i combusted with the SS tube. did i pack it too full?
i'm not quite sure where exactly the contact is supposed to be happening.
Or Where the herb is supposed to be?
EDIT2: i think i touched the herb to the metal tube. but isn't that ok, because there is a screen in the metal tube, then the heater?
shoot. i'm so dumb!!
so far its working but i'm not browning the bud all the way, and when using the Gong its a weaker hit.
the Gong isn't airtight around the main tube in the HI. i dont know if that matters.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh that reducer, and that Mobius rig, that's the problem, those knock-off matrix rigs have recessed 18 mm female joints, so that reducer is not sealing in the joint properly, because it has that rim, so you would need an 18 mm female to 18 mm male to raise up the bowl and have it seal properly... Have you tried it in your globe yet instead??
Yeah getting the load right to not touch the steel of the core is a little tricky, you'll get a hang of it, not a big deal to touch a little bit, easy to clean and keep clean... Yes it should not be airtight where the glass stem meets the HI, that's where the air flow is helping, but yeah it's your reducer and your matrix rig connection pretty sure based on my own experience with them... If I recall you having trouble with that rig and other vapes? When it really should work the same as the globe I would think...
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I dont know If you have the new halogen heater. I have the older 3/8& 7/16th SS heaters in mine. I rarely go over 11.5 but I like flavor over clouds. I never go higher than 12V though. At 11.5 I can pack the tube and let it roast for a few seconds before I draw and NEVER combust. It is technique though. A buddy of mine also has problems when i let him use my rig. You got to take long steady moderate pulls not too much air flow if you know what I mean. There can be a bit of a learning curve but keep practicing you'll master it in no time!
~vapeslut.xo~
Well-Known Member
WOW!! How much help can one person offer?
i KNEW something was wrong when the Elev8r wasn't performing in the Mobius.
grr! thank you
ok so, what should i get for my Mobius to make sure it works with my other vapes&stuff?