Papa Woody
"The vapor is strong with this one"-Obi Onda Woody
When Stu says his HI heats up fast, ya gotta listen to the man. I am also amazed how fast my HI heats up to operating temperatures. I turn mine off when I'm done.
When Stu says his HI heats up fast, ya gotta listen to the man. I am also amazed how fast my HI heats up to operating temperatures. I turn mine off when I'm done.
Bvapst
Well-Known Member
Here I'm dialling down the voltage for the night. I was also concerned by longevity and don't feel comfortable to leave it on all the time but I was being told that it should be left on 24/24 in a longevity and "be ready" purpose ? Less stress to the wood and resistor than to be continuously on and and off... What do you peoples say ?
Peace & get HI !
Peace & get HI !
JJ420
chillin on the couch, sippin off a 22 ounce.
The only reason I had mine off was due to being out of herb at the moment. Otherwise I back it down to 10v when not in use. You really don't have to do that though... the HI like all other logs can remain on 24/7 with no harm being done to the unit.
On a side note - I've tried all sorts of adapters and whatnot with my bongs and bubblers, most of which being specifically made for the HIsaber. Out of everything the wood on silicone tubing adapter shines far above the rest. Turns this little unit into a real deal Cloud killer! I'll get a vid up here eventually, but it instantly milks my Mad Rob 10/10 arm bubbler with an attached Toro 8-arm ash catcher (that's 28 arms in total for those keeping score). HUGE thick clouds. Never got anywhere near that much with the glass adapters despite playing around with all sorts of voltage levels. I'm starting to thing that the glass itself is absorbing too much of the heat tring to pass through.
On a side note - I've tried all sorts of adapters and whatnot with my bongs and bubblers, most of which being specifically made for the HIsaber. Out of everything the wood on silicone tubing adapter shines far above the rest. Turns this little unit into a real deal Cloud killer! I'll get a vid up here eventually, but it instantly milks my Mad Rob 10/10 arm bubbler with an attached Toro 8-arm ash catcher (that's 28 arms in total for those keeping score). HUGE thick clouds. Never got anywhere near that much with the glass adapters despite playing around with all sorts of voltage levels. I'm starting to thing that the glass itself is absorbing too much of the heat tring to pass through.
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darkadious
Well-Known Member
got my wood configuration sent to alan... i think it'll be quite a beauty. possibly a first of this combo? i don't know. i'm excited.
just waiting on his reply and then i can send funds his way. it's almost here!
alan, i'd like to do the unveiling myself when it gets here if you don't mind
just waiting on his reply and then i can send funds his way. it's almost here!
alan, i'd like to do the unveiling myself when it gets here if you don't mind
Papa Woody
"The vapor is strong with this one"-Obi Onda Woody
There really is no right or wrong way to run your HI. It all comes down to personal preference, if ya want to leave it on, leave it on, if ya want to turn it off, turn it off. You're not going to hurt it either way. The two primary points of failure is the Ohmite ceramic resistor which costs about $1.33 from Allied and the power supply, both fairly easy to replace.
I'm hitting my 1 year anniversary with my HISaber...so I'm hitting my HISaber!!!
To all my fellow JedHI's, please join me and raise your HISabers up in an anniversary salute!
I'm hitting my 1 year anniversary with my HISaber...so I'm hitting my HISaber!!!
To all my fellow JedHI's, please join me and raise your HISabers up in an anniversary salute!
Bvapst
Well-Known Member
@JJ420 I don't remember glass on silicone tubing existing. Would like to see it, looking forward at the vids ! And what would be 'tip of the top' is a focus (a picture) of the abv after the action !
I'm still playing and experimenting WCT in different configuration and voltage. If you use it with 'only half part' in manual mode (holding the HI and not letting it sit, of course) you can skip dialling up the voltage for higher temp. So I would let it sit on full WCT and then manual-way to finish ! You can also put a bit more load without a risk of combustion.
I love the continuous controlled extraction the glass core can give ! Of course a SS will be much fast and can get +- same result with a lot of technique but the Hibrid (glass) gives so much of a slow and steady extraction it is impossible to get combustion. I always get a light & mid-brown abv and seems I can not go further, I love it !
Shit ! I wanted to tease with some HI porn and I can't find pictures and probably erased the mail. These HI were which I had to choose from. There was a sexy bamboo one ! If anybody got the picture, show must go on ...
Happy anniversary Papa Woody !
I'm still playing and experimenting WCT in different configuration and voltage. If you use it with 'only half part' in manual mode (holding the HI and not letting it sit, of course) you can skip dialling up the voltage for higher temp. So I would let it sit on full WCT and then manual-way to finish ! You can also put a bit more load without a risk of combustion.
I love the continuous controlled extraction the glass core can give ! Of course a SS will be much fast and can get +- same result with a lot of technique but the Hibrid (glass) gives so much of a slow and steady extraction it is impossible to get combustion. I always get a light & mid-brown abv and seems I can not go further, I love it !
Shit ! I wanted to tease with some HI porn and I can't find pictures and probably erased the mail. These HI were which I had to choose from. There was a sexy bamboo one ! If anybody got the picture, show must go on ...
Happy anniversary Papa Woody !
grokit
well-worn member
Bvapst
Well-Known Member
Wine Cork Tube... I know me too it took me time.WCT?
=
Have you compared your setup to the glass that's surrounded by cork?
darkadious
Well-Known Member
TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
I am hoping you choose my house......
As to comparison here, I leave that to the mods. But a respectful honest comparison that doesn't slam but enlightens would be OK in my book. This ain't my book though....
@EveryDayAmnesiac - The buckeye burl works pretty well for the glass heater cover since it is a lighter weight wood. Still haven't made a Toasty Top with a glass heater cover. It would need to have some holes drilled into the side of the wood for the air intake.
@Rrose Selavy - Thanks for posting a photo of your HI. That particular cocobolo reminds me of red obsidian. Very neat looking wood. The VK will be a very good fit for it.
@ataxian - Thanks so much. Getting those glass tips to slide and stay on is quite a challenge. Especially considering how much glass tubing can vary in diameter and how it wants to roll in at the edge when you flame polish. Each one is pretty much custom made.
@Snappo - Thanks for arranging the wood source.
@Chicken Charlie - Thanks for the kind words. Hoping you will enjoy them for many years. Happy roasting.
@Papa Woody - Happy anniversary.
@Bvapst - Did I send you a glass mouthpiece tube with piece of silicone tubing on it and a screen stuck inside the silicone? I took a better photo of the bamboo HI with a glass heater cover. I need to try one with a ss heater cover now.
@Rrose Selavy - Thanks for posting a photo of your HI. That particular cocobolo reminds me of red obsidian. Very neat looking wood. The VK will be a very good fit for it.
@ataxian - Thanks so much. Getting those glass tips to slide and stay on is quite a challenge. Especially considering how much glass tubing can vary in diameter and how it wants to roll in at the edge when you flame polish. Each one is pretty much custom made.
@Snappo - Thanks for arranging the wood source.
@Chicken Charlie - Thanks for the kind words. Hoping you will enjoy them for many years. Happy roasting.
@Papa Woody - Happy anniversary.
@Bvapst - Did I send you a glass mouthpiece tube with piece of silicone tubing on it and a screen stuck inside the silicone? I took a better photo of the bamboo HI with a glass heater cover. I need to try one with a ss heater cover now.
hoyo77
Well-Known Member
@Alan I know I still got a little ways to go before my name comes up....just wanted to know if you had anything new on the horizon. I am loving the older Hi I bought from you..it has forced me to retire many of my vapes..that badboy gets used hourly...lololol. since I got a mini vvps I am loving it more.@EveryDayAmnesiac - The buckeye burl works pretty well for the glass heater cover since it is a lighter weight wood. Still haven't made a Toasty Top with a glass heater cover. It would need to have some holes drilled into the side of the wood for the air intake.
@Rrose Selavy - Thanks for posting a photo of your HI. That particular cocobolo reminds me of red obsidian. Very neat looking wood. The VK will be a very good fit for it.
@ataxian - Thanks so much. Getting those glass tips to slide and stay on is quite a challenge. Especially considering how much glass tubing can vary in diameter and how it wants to roll in at the edge when you flame polish. Each one is pretty much custom made.
@Snappo - Thanks for arranging the wood source.
@Chicken Charlie - Thanks for the kind words. Hoping you will enjoy them for many years. Happy roasting.
@Papa Woody - Happy anniversary.
@Bvapst - Did I send you a glass mouthpiece tube with piece of silicone tubing on it and a screen stuck inside the silicone? I took a better photo of the bamboo HI with a glass heater cover. I need to try one with a ss heater cover now.
Scott A
Well-Known Member
Damn I love the HI. I was going to do a comparison of it and the underdog but I no longer feel comfortable doing so as the only differences I can see is that my HI is a glass core and the underdog is a stainless core so I would just be spending the whole time going over glass vs metal really.
Is the voltage keeper a good VVPS to run with the HI? Also could I use the underdog VVPS with the HI until I get a voltage keeper for it? Would anything bad happen?
Is the voltage keeper a good VVPS to run with the HI? Also could I use the underdog VVPS with the HI until I get a voltage keeper for it? Would anything bad happen?
After much deliberation I have decided to have my HI and a plain stem made from the same block of white teak. To do this Alan must make my HI a bit smaller than usual but I think the end result will be worth it. Might have to run it a little hotter than usual to make up for the lacking heat insulation but no doubt I'll still be happy with it.
I use the UD VVPS with the HI as my normal set up now. If you already have the VVPS from Dave, you don't need anything else IMO as you're already set.
Scott A
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the information Stu. I know we havent crossed paths before but I would like to let you know that reading your posts on this forum have helped me gain a lot of knowledge about vaporizers I have been interested in.I use the UD VVPS with the HI as my normal set up now. If you already have the VVPS from Dave, you don't need anything else IMO as you're already set.
darkadious
Well-Known Member
sometimes i feel like i'm bothering alan, even though i know i'm not, but i feel like i'll ask you guys this question with a good sense of taste.
can you taste the steel at ALL with the SS core? or is the only taste difference the fact that the SS retains more heat, thus making the ABV darker in comparison to the glass core.
thanks
can you taste the steel at ALL with the SS core? or is the only taste difference the fact that the SS retains more heat, thus making the ABV darker in comparison to the glass core.
thanks
grokit
well-worn member
From what I have read/been told, it seems that the ss core is more robust for more powerful hits. While the ss core can duplicate the lighter hits that the glass core provides, the glass core cannot duplicate the heavy hits that the ss core provides. It does seem that some folks can taste the difference.
This is only what I think are the differences, if I am wrong I would love to hear from those that have tried both. My hi is being made now, and I have chosen the ss core over the hybrid/glass core. Alan told me he likes to start with a glass hi for low-temp flavor, then he switches the load to a ss hi to finish it off.
This is only what I think are the differences, if I am wrong I would love to hear from those that have tried both. My hi is being made now, and I have chosen the ss core over the hybrid/glass core. Alan told me he likes to start with a glass hi for low-temp flavor, then he switches the load to a ss hi to finish it off.
EveryDayAmnesiac
Well-Known Member
I have not used an SS core HI, but in comparing my HIbrid to the UD or Nano, I find a better flavor profile. To many, the difference will probably end up being insignificant, but since I spend most of my vapor time stomping around the low-temp grounds, the distinction matters to me.
I wouldn't say that I could "taste the steel," but I would guess that the SS does impart, or take(?) some flavor, based on my personal results. Maybe it's just in my head, but I do believe that the HIbrid core allows for more flavor.
And here's just a little bonus story.
For reasons I won't go into, I've been using my HI at the same voltage for the past 10 days - 11.35. The reason for that voltage (
) is that it allows me to inhale as slowly as possible (when I want to), even with the heater cover right up against the material, without any possibility of singed herb.
When I can't get anymore out of it, I've been putting it in my Solo at level 5 (393 F.) The herb looks very light at this point. I then get two, maybe three, wispy, unsatisfying hits out the material, and then it's done.
Yet, it looks much, much, much darker after that. I hardly got any more out of it, but the conduction aspect of the Solo does seem to have a major effect on the herb's color.
Just sayin'.
I wouldn't say that I could "taste the steel," but I would guess that the SS does impart, or take(?) some flavor, based on my personal results. Maybe it's just in my head, but I do believe that the HIbrid core allows for more flavor.
And here's just a little bonus story.
For reasons I won't go into, I've been using my HI at the same voltage for the past 10 days - 11.35. The reason for that voltage (
) is that it allows me to inhale as slowly as possible (when I want to), even with the heater cover right up against the material, without any possibility of singed herb.When I can't get anymore out of it, I've been putting it in my Solo at level 5 (393 F.) The herb looks very light at this point. I then get two, maybe three, wispy, unsatisfying hits out the material, and then it's done.
Yet, it looks much, much, much darker after that. I hardly got any more out of it, but the conduction aspect of the Solo does seem to have a major effect on the herb's color.
Just sayin'.
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