Discontinued The Grasshopper

[moondog]

Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..

I thought I read somewhere that GHL said all hoppers are now being shipped with GHB2s. Can't find that in any of the updates from the last few months and I may be confusing that with the V2.0 charger, but the hoppers I received last week both contained GHB2s and the three spares I received were 2s as well.

 

[JoeMama]

i talked to a tool maker and he thought that those grey-black specs that blutac picks up could be causing arcing (heat) given the amount of power this thing can generate.

Actually, your friend was on the right track, but it was in the opposite direction. lol

The black stuff is oxidation caused by voltage drops across those threads ('spaces' between them). And then in turn, that muck can cause yet more voltage drops. It can be called arcing, but it's more like micro-arcing. The threads introduce all kinds of obstacles to voltage and current flow; keeping them shiny and clean is necessary, and Blue Tack has so far been the big winner, making it a minuscule effort.

 

[Icon13]

They haven't been available long enough to know. I have some arring soon, all of my batteries are of poor quality now too, lasting only a bowl or two.
It's possible GHB2 simply refers to a second batch, where hopefully there's a bit more QA along the production process, but they'll probably also only last as long. We'll have to wait and see

I actually notice that the GHB1 catches the threads ever so slightly more than the GHB2. That is the only difference I can tell.

 

[MoltenTiger]

I actually notice that the GHB1 catches the threads ever so slightly more than the GHB2. That is the only difference I can tell.

How many GHB1s have you noticed that with? My batch of 8 had very slight size variance with one noticeably chunky because it did that.
I would hope they have a more consistent yield, or at least a select production filtering out the worst cells, but I still reckon after a year they'll be shot

________

The black stuff is oxidation caused by voltage drops across those threads

Also galling, especially with the Ti (tiny oxidised particles caused by friction).

I also just read this, which I thought you might be interested in. Via Davinci_vaporizer in the IQ thread, referencing device clicking;

The sound you are hearing is the circuit board distributing power from the battery to the heat oven using a process called Pulse Width Modulation to control the oven accurately to precision temperature. Those of you who had the Ascent might already be used to this sound. The Ascent was a larger device so the boards we're deeper inside and my not have been as audible until now. You are starting to see more and more vapes have this sound because more and more vapes are starting to offer precision temperature control.

The other thing I'll mention is I cleaned my GH feeder yesterday. Isopropyl alcohol, paper towel and some q-tips made it quick work. I would estimate after using a half ounce through the feeder, you would lose about a chambers worth to the mechanism, so not a lot, and it's mostly reobtainable between fills.
After cleaning, the mechanism is really smooth and effortless and it seems to be working better than ever.

I tried loading it with MFLB finishing grinder processed herb. It works really well, but so much material can be loaded per chamber, I won't be doing this often. Plus, using the MFLBfin is somewhat annoying. After testing two chambers, it took me a while to empty the feeder with the third. Or was it a forth, we'll never know. Sometime later I compared it with my standard grind, and now it's clean it too loaded up nicely. I'm finding tapping the top corner opposite the piston works well over shaking.

And one last thing worth mentioning, I tried using PBW to clean the hoppers mouthpiece.
It works really well and is quick and super easy.
Initially I rinsed the MP under a hot tap and crudely scraped the screen with a pipe tool
Then I soaked the MP in boiling water/PBW solution for a minute or two
Gave it a shake everynow and then for best results
Finally rinsed thoroughly with hot tap water.

Some bits will get trapped by the threads, a pipe cleaner or tool will help dislodge them and after 3 minutes the MP is nearly perfectly clean and ready to use.

I find soaking in IPA requires 10+ minutes and it definitely doesn't clean as thoroughly, for instance the screen usually remains discoloured. PBW strips it right back.

 

[Astedra]

Ok so I have had a couple of days with the grasshopper. When I first got it I only took like 4 puffs and I thought it was great. Second session after the 6th puff it got so hot that I couldn't put it to my lips without burning it. Which made the grasshopper unusable for the long sessions that I like. Then I put on the silicon and now it's usable again. All in all the hopper is not bad, I just don't like how the taste is towards the end, it tastes soggy and wet, when the Millana for example it tastes great even if you take 20 puffs. I'm going to keep using the hopper though, especially as I waited 8 months for it.

 

[vapviking]

And one last thing worth mentioning, I tried using PBW to clean the hoppers mouthpiece.
It works really well and is quick and super easy.
Initially I rinsed the MP under a hot tap and crudely scraped the screen with a pipe tool
Then I soaked the MP in boiling water/PBW solution for a minute or two
Gave it a shake everynow and then for best results
Finally rinsed thoroughly with hot tap water.

Some bits will get trapped by the threads, a pipe cleaner or tool will help dislodge them and after 3 minutes the MP is nearly perfectly clean and ready to use.

I find soaking in IPA requires 10+ minutes and it definitely doesn't clean as thoroughly, for instance the screen usually remains discoloured. PBW strips it right back.

Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?

When cleaning Hopper mp, are you removing the screen and inner pieces? I'm hoping for a method that doesn't require this. One mp I have has not allowed me to remove screen ever. A pair of CVS precision tweezers broke - a small piece of one point- in the effort (don't know my own strength!). I tried repeatedly heat from blow dryer and alcohol. Other mp is just the opposite, once every several days it needs to be snugged down.

A further, open question. When mp parts are disassembled, the screen is attached to a 'plastic-looking' funnel like thing and I have trouble cleaning the gunk I can see between the two near the edges. I really don't want to separate the two from concern I'll never get the little tabs locked back down well. Will the PWB/boiling water get all clean, together? Compressed air help? Any other suggestions?

 

[Hogni]

So much written stuff about cleaning the GH but no visualization.
It would be really nice if someone would make and upload a vid about an intense cleaning of the GH (w/ Bluetac and/or ISO). I miss it.

 

[Tranquility]

What I mean to address is the lack of Scientific Method (maybe they've changed the name, idk). One of the tenets is consistent replication of results, as in, look, this "B" happens every time this other thing "A" happens. Anything less is to be taken with a grain or two of salt and require further study. I'm not suggesting that members stop trying this or that; sometimes great ideas are those stumbled upon. But it was in science class I learned the meaning of 'superstitious behavior'. No way have we (nor could we have) done enough here to keep the twain from meeting.

"Consistent replication of results?" When I took lab sciences back when we were inventing dirt, we didn't call that the "Scientific Method", we called it "cheating". The smoother the graph, the more massaging of the data.

 

[MoltenTiger]

Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?

When cleaning Hopper mp, are you removing the screen and inner pieces? I'm hoping for a method that doesn't require this. One mp I have has not allowed me to remove screen ever. A pair of CVS precision tweezers broke - a small piece of one point- in the effort (don't know my own strength!). I tried repeatedly heat from blow dryer and alcohol. Other mp is just the opposite, once every several days it needs to be snugged down.

A further, open question. When mp parts are disassembled, the screen is attached to a 'plastic-looking' funnel like thing and I have trouble cleaning the gunk I can see between the two near the edges. I really don't want to separate the two from concern I'll never get the little tabs locked back down well. Will the PWB/boiling water get all clean, together? Compressed air help? Any other suggestions?

There are accounts of it working very well and easily for the Mighty/Crafty CU in the PBW thread. Very much the recommendable way to clean, PBW is safe on most materials, even hands. Though it can have a pH of 12 @1% concentration.

I've looked inside the inner bore of the mouthpiece and noticed that the threads are about three revolutions longer than my patience. I have no desire to ever remove the screens.
PBW is a genius mix of detergents, surfactants and many other chemical properties that make it quite awesome. I think it would give the best chance at a complete clean without disassembly, however that's not truly possible.. although it might be with an ultrasonic cleaner. Although even stationary soaking overnight in cold water/PBW solution might do it.
Either way, with an appropriately shaped brush or pipe cleaner, it will be so close to perfect the remaining material would be undetectable to the naked eye.
I'll have to make a series of pictures next time I do a clean, I think I've now figured out the easiest, quickest and cheapest solution.

 

[MonkeyTime]

Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..

Maybe I missed this simple part, but how are we distinguishing between 1's & 2's?

I finally got my 4 spares and see no physical or marked difference and my Opus charger shows them all to me nominally acceptable out of the box (most max out about 4.05v) after a charge/discharge cycle. Very disappointing....

 

[vapviking]

Maybe I missed this simple part, but how are we distinguishing between 1's & 2's?

I finally got my 4 spares and see no physical or marked difference and my Opus charger shows them all to me nominally acceptable out of the box (most max out about 4.05v) after a charge/discharge cycle. Very disappointing....

GHB1 or GHB2
printed on therm?

 

[Baron23]

IMR's are Li-Ion. Because they just say LI-Ion and thats all they could be any chemistry. But because of the application, high drainage, high amps and high temp the only real logical choice would be IMR. They would be foolish not to. And as I said before looking at the pic of the vented GHB battery it looks like a IMR vented battery. There would be more black burnt casing and wrapping if not. I have personally seen vented ICR and IMR batteries (my buddy's experimentation with exploding batteries) and you can tell the two apart. ICR's and other non-safe chemistry are more damaging and go thermal. The vape world uses IMR. The Crafty, FM and most others use IMR's.

But we will never know unless GH says something. We already know from Mooche's testing the GHB1 batteries are really crap and not one he tested is up to spec. So if they are non-safe and not up to spec then that is even more worrisome. I am assuming the new GHB2 batteries are because of the testing they got Mooch to do on the GHB1's.

https://www.reddit.com/r/GrassHoppe...per_ghb1_battery_750mah_bench_test_resultsan/

Mooch did a great job...I don't frequent Reddit so thanks for posting over here. Very interesting and seems a great simple lead for GHL to follow in their product improvement efforts (that is, better quality batteries!).

Wrt to PBW, I have not used it on my GH MP yet, but I do use it a lot for cleaning and really like this product. Safe and effective.

Cheers

 

[paytonpenn]

Figured you guys might like this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BMeIm2pjCW2/

Finally got the Hoppers back from the third repair.

 

[newVaper420]

My hopper sometimes when I click it on turns red, then shuts immediately off. I always get it working after a few clicks. Is this a sign that the end of times are approaching?

 

[guyonthecouch]

Picked up my Hopper at THC in toronto yesterday (finally!!). Apparently available online now as well..

http://torontohemp.com/collections/vaporizers/grasshoppervape

 

[Icon13]

Boy have I been using this device incorrectly (not to its full potential).

Let me start by saying that I come from 10 years of convection vaping, so I am very experienced. I have a very high quality desktop vape, The Evolutions AKA The Dawsonator. It is pure convection and bowls puff and puff and puff in this bad boy. They key is that you are only drawing hot air to heat the herb, so if you do it right the results are amazing. You need to warm the bowl up and then keep hitting it before it cools down so you can keep the herb nice and warm (think keeping a bowl cherried). The first hit is not the best, but by the 3rd you are ripping it.

I have a matrix can style bubbler that I use as a water tool with my GH. Until now, I had been setting the temp to about 4.3-4.5 and shut the unit off 90% of the way through my hit. I would get 2 big hits and that was all. The bud comes out very dark brown. Not that I dislike the results, but I sort of wanted something that would puff a bit more and provide may hits from a pack. I felt like slow vaping was more efficient, tasty, and the high is better with my desktop. I would say the GH is more of a bong of a vape, while the other is more like a cherried pipe, until now...

Now I set the GH to 2.7-3 and I do not shut it off at all. The results are amazing! At this temp it requires a few puffs to really get things going, but once it does it really puffs. I feel like this minimizes any chance of combustion too. The key is slow roasting the bowl. The temperature of the chamber will gradually climb higher the more you hit it. I do not turn the unit off at all in between hits so the bowl stays warmer and there is no heat up period. The battery life is no issue at this temp. To me this method is more efficient because not all the material is burning up all at once. You get every little drop of goodness, nice and slow. The end result is a nice tobacco brown ABV bud, perfect and consistently vaped. I now feel like my GH is what I really wanted it to be in the first place; a handheld Dawsonator.

 

[YaFreekin Right]

Picked up my Hopper at THC in toronto yesterday (finally!!). Apparently available online now as well..

http://torontohemp.com/collections/vaporizers/grasshoppervape

Or you could have purchased it for ~$100 less from Sneakypete...

 

[Herbie Hancock]

I don't want to jinx myself... I have one stainless steel that I purchased from EBay in July. Then I received my order or a blue and grey titanium at some point late in August. I purchased a handful of extra batteries and I think the most important thing was the external E Fest charger. In other words I have never ever taken any of the stock grasshopper chargers out of the box. Not even sure how it works... don't care.
All three units are performing flawlessly and I really feel it's due to the fact that I have never used the stock charger. Only external.

I know people have mentioned it in the thread before. I am not trying to take credit, just agreeing with that speculation due to my experience. Granted I keep waiting for a failure... or a hot end, but so far so good!

 

[guyonthecouch]

Or you could have purchased it for ~$100 less from Sneakypete...

Hmmm.. Meh I was in the store and it was right there in front of me, how could i resist!! Came with the new version of the charger and it's an official retailer backed by warranty.. Im happy .. this thing is a BEAST!!

 

[AJS]

So ! I decided to try a new pack on the Grasshopper today. Poured in 1/3 bowl, and used a poker to lightly tamp it into place. Added another 1/3, repeater until full.

Went to the coffee shop and started vaping away. First hit on 2 was tasty. 2.5 was tasty ... Where's the clouds tho? Turned to 3....big ... Big mistake. Feel like I just took a massive dab. I rarely see much exhale when I'm here due to lighting, but I'm sure the few people behind me thought I just took an Ecig rip.(everyone here is very herb friendly tho, so I wasn't concerned there). I was so close to having a coughing fit that I had to do everything in my power to stay composed.

Now I chill.

(Book is Dean Koontz, Strangers, and is one of the craziest books I've ever read. Mmmmm)

 

[luke00978]

Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?

When cleaning Hopper mp, are you removing the screen and inner pieces? I'm hoping for a method that doesn't require this. One mp I have has not allowed me to remove screen ever. A pair of CVS precision tweezers broke - a small piece of one point- in the effort (don't know my own strength!). I tried repeatedly heat from blow dryer and alcohol. Other mp is just the opposite, once every several days it needs to be snugged down.

A further, open question. When mp parts are disassembled, the screen is attached to a 'plastic-looking' funnel like thing and I have trouble cleaning the gunk I can see between the two near the edges. I really don't want to separate the two from concern I'll never get the little tabs locked back down well. Will the PWB/boiling water get all clean, together? Compressed air help? Any other suggestions?

ive tried a few times with the mighty and crafty c/u and pbw it just doesn’t seem to work on them like it does on glass, glass is like instantly clean but it didnt work like that with the c/u so i stick to iso for them now ( it doesn’t damage the just doesn’t work the same as it does with glass)

also a good tip i get cheap oxy action from out £land (dollar store) contains the same chemicals as pbw, sodium pentacarbide and sodium metasilicate i believe just 10x cheaper

 

[MoltenTiger]

ive tried a few times with the mighty and crafty c/u and pbw it just doesn’t seem to work on them like it does on glass, glass is like instantly clean but it didnt work like that with the c/u so i stick to iso for them now ( it doesn’t damage the just doesn’t work the same as it does with glass)

also a good tip i get cheap oxy action from out £land (dollar store) contains the same chemicals as pbw, sodium pentacarbide and sodium metasilicate i believe just 10x cheaper

If you're not using PBW, you're not using PBW.
I've used sodium percarbonate based cleaners before, PBW has a lot more going on. Namely, buffering agents a chelator and surfactants. The stuff is formulated to deal with baked on carbon and it makes short work of vapour resin. It will require hot water and the appropriate mechanical action too, however if it can't be shaken off it will eventually be able to with subsequent rinses.

But, I have no experience with it and the M/C CU, so who knows. After seeing what it did to the GH mouthpiece though, and reading about success with the CU, it surprises me to hear you haven't had success.

Oxy action may not have sodium metasilicate in it btw, this acts as a building agent and raises the pH, it would most likely be 1/3rd-1/30th as alkaline, especially at the concentrations easily available when cleaning such small items with PBW, so it would not nearly clean as well comparatively.

 

[luke00978]

If you're not using PBW, you're not using PBW.
I've used sodium percarbonate based cleaners before, PBW has a lot more going on. Namely, buffering agents a chelator and surfactants. The stuff is formulated to deal with baked on carbon and it makes short work of vapour resin. It will require hot water and the appropriate mechanical action too, however if it can't be shaken off it will eventually be able to with subsequent rinses.

But, I have no experience with it and the M/C CU, so who knows. After seeing what it did to the GH mouthpiece though, and reading about success with the CU, it surprises me to hear you haven't had success.

Oxy action may not have sodium metasilicate in it btw, this acts as a building agent and raises the pH, it would most likely be 1/3rd-1/30th as alkaline, especially at the concentrations easily available when cleaning such small items with PBW, so it would not nearly clean as well comparatively.

i have used actual pbw and the budget oxy action i get does have metasilicate its in the ingredients list. I noticed no difference in glass cleaning between the pbw and alternative other than a more soapy smell therefore requires more rinsing. Since i pay £12 for 500g of pbw vs £1 per 500 g of fake oxyclean its a no brainier. either way actual pbw didn’t clean my cu as well as iso just my opinion based on experience. infact recently ive gone back to iso and a funnel to clean bubblers just a 1 min shake and can be reused many times. and drop the cu in a mason if iso , no reclaim with pbw/oxyclean.

anyway theres no need to worry about pbw damaging the cu so no problem trying it

 

[MoltenTiger]

i have used actual pbw and the budget oxy action i get does have metasilicate its in the ingredients list. I noticed no difference in glass cleaning between the pbw and alternative other than a more soapy smell therefore requires more rinsing. Since i pay £12 for 500g of pbw vs £1 per 500 g of fake oxyclean its a no brainier. either way actual pbw didn’t clean my cu as well as iso just my opinion based on experience. infact recently ive gone back to iso and a funnel to clean bubblers just a 1 min shake and can be reused many times. and drop the cu in a mason if iso , no reclaim with pbw/oxyclean.

anyway theres no need to worry about pbw damaging the cu so no problem trying it

the sodium metasilicate doesn't do much but make it basic. PBW is 30% Na2SiO3 so its oxidation potential is generally higher than oxy cleaners which usually have about 1% metasilicate, but the main beneficial chemical seems to be PBWs surfactants.

None the less if you've already tried it and it's not working out for you, then that's that. However I feel with the right process it should work quite efficiently, but certainly both IPA and PBW are perfectly suitable for the task at hand, so by all means use whatever works best with your methods.

I just thought it was worth mentioning that there is no substitute for PBW*, and if you try and make it yourself it will probably cost more per weight than the real stuff, which for vaping purposes is a once off purchase for a lifetime supply at about $15. That doesn't even buy me half a litre of IPA in Australia by the time I've evaporated it away, I could have just bought some damn herb
So PBW is a desirable option

*although there are many options that might be similar enough for basic glass cleaning

 

[Astedra]

It's so much better like this then the stock.